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New 1981 Sunrader Diesel Owner


cdt5058

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18 minutes ago, cdt5058 said:

From what I described with the multimeter readings previously, does anyone think that this could be an isolator problem? It's just odd that the battery Voltage drops from 12.5V to 12.25V when I turn the car on and then it steadily climbs back up to 12.5V over a handful of minutes.

Easy enough to test.  Separate the isolator and house battery from the truck side and retest voltages.  My method of troubleshooting is divide and conquer.  Also with auto electrical, I always clean and check all terminations and connections including grounds.

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On 7/19/2016 at 11:11 AM, Back East Don said:

Easy enough to test.  Separate the isolator and house battery from the truck side and retest voltages.  My method of troubleshooting is divide and conquer.  Also with auto electrical, I always clean and check all terminations and connections including grounds.

 
 

Tested this today. The reading on the batteries was definitely better than going thru the battery isolator.  The reading on battery terminals was 12.3V prior to starting the vehicle. Once it was started, it quickly rose to 13.5V. Negative battery post to top post of Alternator read 14.45V.

Would I be incorrect in thinking that this is a battery isolator issue? I'm also thinking that the wiring from the battery to the isolator is shoddy and requires re-wiring since there is nearly a Volt difference between the two readings above.

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4 minutes ago, cdt5058 said:

Tested this today. The reading on the batteries was definitely better than going thru the battery isolator.  The reading on battery terminals was 12.3V prior to starting the vehicle. Once it was started, it quickly rose to 13.5V. Negative battery post to top post of Alternator read 14.45V.

Would I be incorrect in thinking that this is a battery isolator issue? I'm also thinking that the wiring from the battery to the isolator is shoddy and requires re-wiring since there is nearly a Volt difference between the two readings above.

Normal drop across an isolator is 7/10ths of a volt.  Normal charge voltage at the alternator post should be around 14.2 volts, plus or minus a few tenths.  Of course, voltmeters and their readings can vary.  Main point is - if you read 14.4 volts at the alternator post - voltage coming out of the isolator should be around 13.7 volts assuming the input to the isolator matches the output of the alternator. Have you checked that?   The way to check the isolator is take all voltage reads directly on the posts of the isolator. NOT at the alternator.      You might find that even though you read 14.4 volts on the alternator post, that voltage might be lower at the other end of that wire where it attaches to the isolator.

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On 7/18/2016 at 8:55 PM, Maineah said:

2006, 10 years ago in the US. In Europe as far back as 1990 VW was well aware that it was coming and so were the Japanese and were way ahead of the game.. My 92 Cummings has a rotary pump and has been running on ULSD since 06. As it turns out diesels did not roll over a play dead with LSD http://www.worktruckonline.com/article/story/2007/11/one-year-later-the-impact-of-ulsd-on-diesel-engines.aspx  GM's early diesel engines did not last long enough for the pumps to go bad and that's saying something for the worlds worst injector pumps. John Deere uses rotary pumps on many of their engines.

I've worked on several 92 Cummins that had what I'd call premature automatic timing advance wear - including my own. I cannot say for sure what caused it.   Ford and GMs usually have the timing-advance mechanisms start to wear out at 150K miles with the Stanadyne pumps.  One point of interest is that the Bosch rotary pumps as well as the CAV rotary pumps are built under license from Stanadyne.   They all needed permission to copy the design of Stanadyne.

I suspect many diesel owners don't even know it when the timing advance wears and I doubt any local mechanics have any way to even check it.  You mentioned John Deere.  Nice thing about Deere spec. pumps was the automatic advance could be checked with a $5 tool and was also adjustable. Not so with CAV or Bosch VE pumps.

Civilian vehicles built by GM went to electronic pumps in 1994.  But - our military refused to use the electronic pumps and kept the Stanadyne mechanical pumps all through the years as long as they had Humvees (with GM or aftermarket 6.2 and 6.5 diesels).  Humvee is now gone and a new rig is out with a Isuzu-designed Duramax. Note that the military had severe issues with wear and low lube in diesel when it comes to Stanadyne rotary pumps.

Back to your mention of Deere and rotary pumps on farm tractors. Yes, Deere was one of the first to use on on anything in 1960.  Hercules was the first a few years earlier. I worked in a Deere injection pump shop.  Keep in mind that long after ultra-low-sulfur diesel was at the pumps for highway use - farmers were still using medium to high sulfur dyed diesel that did not have any lube issues. Deere used CDC, CBC, DBG, JDB, JDC, DB2, and DS4 rotary pumps from Stanadyne and maybe a few more I'm forgetting.   GM and Ford only used DB2 pumps until they switched to electronic controls.

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Had a 79 VW diesel Rabbit, it ran "normal" 80's diesel just fine. When The Peoples Republic of Ca. mandated an immediate change to ULSD, all the diesel owners had no choice.

Within 6 months there was a huge rash of diesel pump problems all over Ca. Leaking gaskets, worn pumps. Ca eventually withdrew the mandate, and had to pay diesel owners to replace pumps. Mine needed a complete rebuild new seals and timing parts and plungers, $800.parts and labor. The diesel pump shops had a major boom year.

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3 hours ago, jdemaris said:

Normal drop across an isolator is 7/10ths of a volt

That's good to know. I'm going to double check the voltage coming out of the isolator tomorrow either early before work or later on in the day.

Just to make sure I'm not making a bone-headed mistake, how exactly should I test the isolator? I have one of the finned isolators and not the cylindrical ones that I've seen online. The left post goes to the truck batteries, the middle connects the alternator to the isolator, and the right post goes to the coach battery.

I swear I'm slowly losing my mind with this issue... :wacko:

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11 hours ago, cdt5058 said:

Just to make sure I'm not making a bone-headed mistake, how exactly should I test the isolator? I have one of the finned isolators and not the cylindrical ones that I've seen online. The left post goes to the truck batteries, the middle connects the alternator to the isolator, and the right post goes to the coach battery.

I swear I'm slowly losing my mind with this issue... :wacko:

Isolators come in three post and four post.  Newer Toyotas (mid 80s and up) usually use a four-post unit.  Back to your question.  All a three post isolator is - is two one-way "check valves" tied together at the middle post.  Inside the box are two large diode/rectifiers.  I have never seen one go partially bad.  Usually they work, or they are completely blown like a fuse. Just one side can blow however.  So power from the alternator goes to the center post. It can only go one-way.  It can go into and through the isolator, but cannot go backwards.  That power travels one-way to both end posts.  One for the cranking battery and one for the coach battery.  So power goes to each, but can never flow backwards.  This keeps one battery from draining the other.  The device is simple. Only problems are this.  #1 if overloaded it will blow just like a fuse. #2 when working correctly there is always a voltage drop of 7/10 ths of a volt.  So if the alternator is making 14.2 volts (what batteries should get), the end terminals of that isolator drop to 13.5 volts which will charge your batteries - but not like they should be charged.

I will get more complicated now.  All alternators and regulator combos MUST have a way to sense actual battery voltage do the alternator can adjust voltage AT the battery and not AT the alternator post.  As I recall, that is why some rigs need a four post isolator. I think the rule-of-thumb with Toyotas is - if the alternator has an internal regulator - a four post isolator is needed (but double check).or 

If you isolator is working - but only reads somewhere around 13.5 volts - then nobody is telling your alternator about it. If it knew - it would adjust and you'd see voltage at the alternator output post rise to 14.9 volts so the output of the isolator would be the proper 14.2 volts.

One more note. Life is much simply by just getting rid of the isolator and put in a isolator-relay instead. Nothing to blow, and not voltage drop to deal with.

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I got thinking about your rig. I forgot until looking in my tech manual that the alternator in a 81 diesel is different from an 81 gas version.  My book says your alternator has an internal voltage regulator.  That likely means that IF you really want a rectifier-based isolator - you need a four-post unit and NOT a three-post like you have now.  A four-post hooks up just the same as you have now except it has that 4th post that gets hooked to IGN wire that senses voltage somewhere other then the alternator post.

I feel bad making this all sound convoluted - but it is.  Lots of different charging systems out there and not all isolator work on all RVs.

Double check for yourself - but it looks to me you have three choices IF you want full charge voltage to reach all your batteries.

#1 Buy a 4 post rectifier-based isolator.

#2 Buy an FET isolator (looks like what you have now but has near no voltage drop and has no rectifiers inside)

#3 (MY CHOICE) Buy a "smart" relay. No voltage drop and no semi-conductors to blow out and FULL charge voltage.

I have the PowerStream "smart" relay I attached an image of.

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Image2.jpg

Image3.jpg

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12 hours ago, WME said:

Had a 79 VW diesel Rabbit, it ran "normal" 80's diesel just fine. When The Peoples Republic of Ca. mandated an immediate change to ULSD, all the diesel owners had no choice.

Within 6 months there was a huge rash of diesel pump problems all over Ca. Leaking gaskets, worn pumps. Ca eventually withdrew the mandate, and had to pay diesel owners to replace pumps. Mine needed a complete rebuild new seals and timing parts and plungers, $800.parts and labor. The diesel pump shops had a major boom year.

I worked in three different diesel fuel injection shops but all were off-road.  On-road requires different equipment and has different rules due to highway emissions regs..  That said, back in the 70s and 80s - many of the same injection pumps were used on cars, trucks, farm tractors, log skidders, etc.  That all changed in the 90s.  GM's last year for a mechanical pump was 1993. Ford was mid 1994, etc.  Most of our customers used off-road diesel that was NOT low sulfur when it was mandated at the pumps.  Now - it is all low-sulfur - even heating oil (at least where I live).

We saw many pump problems - but to be fair - we did not get customers come visit us just to tell us how great their rigs were running.  We only saw the bad.  I DID go to many service schools an DID keep up with what was going on with auto-diesels.  I also owned a dozen GM, VW, Dodge Cummins, Ford-IH, and Isuzu diesels myself.  There is no question that ultra-low sulfur diesel has the natural lube cooked out of it. Also no question that fuel sellers are supposed to dump a fuel lube additive into that fuel before selling to you. I also have little doubt that most sellers have little concern for weirdos that are still driving mechanically-injected diesels from the past and they are the ones with the higher lube needs.  Our US military refused to switch over to electronic pumps for the GM engines in Humvees (same engines that came in K5 Blazers, ?Suburbans, and pickups).   So there is much info from the military with the constant pump failures from low-lube - especially in hot areas like Iraq.  Not the same fuel as the pump fuel we get here - but close.

I know this. 

#1 Most people including mechanics don't own tools to check a timing advance and many have no clue how to even try
#2 Besides advance wear from low-lube fuel - for some reason the newer fuel also eats up rubber parts so materials got updated.

For me? Considering a replacement pump can cost over $1000 - I trust myself to make sure my fuel has all the lube it needs.  For those that trust fuel sellers to care about us with old rigs - go for it.
 

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On 7/18/2016 at 9:23 PM, Back East Don said:

I just thought I would point out that the article you reference kind of makes jdemaris's point. 

From the article:

With some older trucks, the transition to ULSD hasn’t been totally smooth.

Larry Forkum, fleet manager for the city of Portsmouth, N.H., said, with USLD, “some of the (1998 and older model) trucks were stumbling, almost like the (fuel) pumps were trying to bind. We chased down everything — didn’t get a good answer on all the checks we knew — and came to the point where we decided it must be a lubricity problem.”  The problem primarily surfaced in the winter — a particularly inopportune time because of crucial road salting and snowplowing operations Forkum’s municipality must deal with.  “The fuel (ULSD) is dry. But when it’s cold, ",” he said.  His maintenance people solved the problem by adding a half-quart of antigel with a lubricity package to every tank of fuel in wintertime.

It is a huge fleet there is bound to be issues with "some". Antigel should be used in the winter with most diesels. "Seems to be drier" is less than a scientific statement.

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The GM pumps were absolute junk they do not count. Early Ford pickup diesel pumps generally made it 90K no matter what fuel was used The Feds use the same fuel in every thing they have including gas turbines. If you have a diesel in Europe it most likely is running on US diesel fuel we are the worlds larger exporter of diesel fuel. 

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3 hours ago, Maineah said:

It is a huge fleet there is bound to be issues with "some". Antigel should be used in the winter with most diesels. "Seems to be drier" is less than a scientific statement.

Your experience with your even smaller fleet is not exactly big sample size if you don't mind me pointing that out.  Perhaps you didn't mean to sound that way but it was easy to read that my VW, Dodge and tractor work just fine so no one should be having issues.  In these posts, the differences in opinion seem to have a common theme of both self validation and comparison disconnect.  I get that everyone has an opinion, often primarily based on their experience but these endless debates often take the tone of my opinion (experience) is correct and yours is wrong.  Is it remotely possible for you and others in this forum to state and even appreciate that it is just that, an opinion?  Empirical observation is not science and neither is any of the opinions issued here.  Science at minimum requires observation under controlled conditions.  The real world lacks this. Debate all you want but understand opinions have limitations and should not be proffered as absolute proof of anything.

Sure, post proof of your opinion but perhaps you'd like to read past the title.  This crap is getting old when even I'm tired of it.  If adding lubricity isn't harming anything on an old vehicle, what the hell is your problem with the suggestion.

Edited by Back East Don
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54 minutes ago, Maineah said:

The GM pumps were absolute junk they do not count. Early Ford pickup diesel pumps generally made it 90K no matter what fuel was used The Feds use the same fuel in every thing they have including gas turbines. If you have a diesel in Europe it most likely is running on US diesel fuel we are the worlds larger exporter of diesel fuel. 

GM used Stanadyne/Roosamaster DB2 pumps - exactly the same models as Ford used.  Also the same as used by the military on Humvees and diesel K5 Blazers and cargo carriers, etc.  U.S. Army, starting in 1990, used JP8 military fuel in all diesels. NOT US "pump diesel." 

My 1994 F250 has the original pump with 240,000 miles (a "junk" Stanadyne like GM uses).  Since you put a 90K figure on them, seems I'm doing better then most. Note my truck has always been run on farm diesel, or heating oil, or conventional pump diesel, or ultra-low-sulfur with 2-stroke oil added.

US Military bought thousands of trucks with civilian-type 6.2 and 6.5 diesels.  Same as what came in half-ton pickups (and more HD rigs), along with K5 Blazers.  There are hundreds of documents from the U.S. Army documenting pump wear problems. low lube issues, and the many efforts they made to off-set those issues.   Note - that's with JP8 military diesel that is close to winter-blend diesel we get at the pump. HMMWV, CUCV, - M1008, M1009, M1010, M1028, M1031, etc.  All with the same Stanadyne pumps we got in civilian trucks up through 1993.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Apologies for being rather inactive on here. Had an extremely productive weekend last weekend. I drove the camper back to Northeast Ohio to have an Extreme Home Makeover - Camper Edition with my family back there. She purred along at 65 mph on flat highways and anywhere from 45 - 55 uphill. I think the top speed was 71 mph - downhill of course.

Here's the work we accomplished - 

  • Got the exhaust replaced the day before the trip
  • Picked out interior fabric - Think green/blue banana leaf pattern and some other fabric. This was something the lady picked out, not me
  • Picked out interior paint - went with Moonlight Rendevous ;) for the main color and then a blue & green for the cabinet doors
  • Cleaned the camper shell
  • Checked the Ceiling Fan Electrical
  • Replaced front-facing overcab window seals
  • Tried to test the fridge on 12V for a couple hours, but nothing felt cold/hot.
  • Grabbed knobs from Home Depot for the cabinets since 1/2 were missing
  • Prepped the bench seats for Piano Hinges for easy access to the water heater, battery bank, and storage
  • Resealed the coach door & little awning with QUAD sealant
  • Other small things that I'm forgetting.

So, I've continued with that momentum into this weekend and have started the following tasks - 

  • Fiberglass patched the shower floor
  • Applied 2nd coat of paint to the coach interior
  • Ripped up the remainder of the old 1981 carpet underneath the bench seats in the coach
  • Painted the wheel wells white
  • Replaced a corroded tail light
  • Added 1500 lumen LED lights to the reverse tail lights

This leaves me with some questions for the experts now -

  • Do the photos below look like dry rot or sagging on the floor? If so, are there any writeups with how to deal with this? For reference, this is on the passenger side, rear of the coach where the water heater, pump, and tank should all be. However, I think that the vehicle was rear-ended at one point in time and patched up with sheets of fiberglass/lexan.
  • Does the ceiling fan run on 12V or 120V?

Photo_Aug_06,_11_09_55.jpg

Thanks again for all the help and inspiration you all have provided me so far.

-Cory

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I would definitely add some wood there. Don't cut out the old. It's going to add support even though it looks shot. The entire floor is just fiberglassed to the shell and cutting anything out can weaken the structure. 1/2 inch marine plywood should do the trick then seal that after you get it in place. . You will still have enough clearance for the tanks to fit under the seat.

Ceiling fan works on 12 volt but if it's old maybe it just doesn't work. Multimeter will tell if it's getting juice

Linda S

 

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2 hours ago, linda s said:

I would definitely add some wood there. Don't cut out the old. It's going to add support even though it looks shot. The entire floor is just fiberglassed to the shell and cutting anything out can weaken the structure. 1/2 inch marine plywood should do the trick then seal that after you get it in place. . You will still have enough clearance for the tanks to fit under the seat.

1

Always a wealth of information, Linda.

I'm headed back to the store tomorrow to get smaller screws for new cabinet latches and hinges - looks like I'll be getting a bit of marine grade plywood too. How should I go about putting the new wood into the van? Just lay it on top of the old flooring or use wood glue/great stuff/etc to have some sort of glue.

Earlier tonight, I also began to cut out the old battery box shell since I'm putting in two Trojan T-605's into a custom enclosure. Hopefully I can finish that off tomorrow as well.

-Cory

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Karen was the wiz as far as getting the new layer to come up as solidly as possible to the old. I've tried it and it works much better than just screwing it in. You drill holes just the tiniest bigger than the base of the screw all over your new piece before you install it. That way when you put the screws in it draws the bottom layer up to the top one instead of drawing the top down and makes a more solid attachment. I would put some construction glue in there too to help reinforce the old weakened part. Screws should be evenly spaced and around every 6 inches or so. Seal after with something good, 2 part epoxy or something as strong. Water heater and fresh tank are going back in and sooner or later something always leaks.

Linda S

Don't overtighten the screws. Old stuff could just rip apart. I do the last few turns by hand so I can feel where it is.

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Any way you can make a sandwich with an upper and lower piece of ply? That way instead of screwing into old wood you could use through bolts and epoxy.

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19 hours ago, WME said:

Any way you can make a sandwich with an upper and lower piece of ply?

1

Valid thought. If only it wasn't just me working on the camper this weekend.

I took Linda's advice and if it doesn't workout for some reason, that'll probably be my next move. I wound up using 3/4" plywood and Loctite 3x strength wood glue to hold the boards together as well. Hopefully, this will remedy the issue at hand.

Items I completed today - 

  • Finished repairing shower floor - sanded it down
  • Attempted to hand up the cabinets, but the hinges squeak like mad
  • Began to investigate putting in a 12V buzzer when I leave the lights on. I've done this twice and killed the batteries both times... *facepalm*
  • Resealed the remaining two over cab windows

Today is one of those days where I feel like I've bitten off way more than I can chew. Hopefully, I can keep this momentum on the rear 1/2 going throughout the week and into next weekend.

Edited by cdt5058
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  • 11 months later...

Holy cow! It's been awhile since I've been able to work on the Sunrader (we got a puppy back in February), but I'm back with a vengeance.

I've taken off from work for the next week to work on our camper with a pretty lofty list of items to complete. Some of which include - 

  • Finishing the over cab renovations (finish polywall ceiling install, hang curtains, & install a new 12V outlet)
  • Ceiling (install new maxxair fan, insulate ceiling, install polywall
  • Removing and replacing the fridge (is there any way to do this without removing the passenger seat? Also may remove the heater and use that as storage)
  • Replacing the kitchen countertop area (remove oven, replace with new countertop with new stove + sink, reframe existing kitchen cabinets)
  • Finish subfloor install + add click-lock flooring
  • Electrical clean up (make a control board of sorts for house electrical system)

As always, I'll try to post throughout the week with updates and any questions I may have.

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Fridge removal? Since they don't fit through the house door, the only other way I could see to remove one would be through a large window after it's removal. Unless you're planning to remove the window to reseal it, I'd say removing the 4 bolts holding the passenger seat would be easier. Unless they're rusted solid, of course. :)

 

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1 minute ago, Derek up North said:

Fridge removal? Since they don't fit through the house door, the only other way I could see to remove one would be through a large window after it's removal. Unless you're planning to remove the window to reseal it, I'd say removing the 4 bolts holding the passenger seat would be easier. Unless they're rusted solid, of course. :)

1

It's been awhile since I've looked under the passenger seat @Derek up North - I have a feeling that since I was Flinstoning it earlier, they're rusted solid... This'll be a fun problem to solve since the back window doesn't need to be resealed either...

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On 7/24/2017 at 2:42 PM, Derek up North said:

I noticed before posting above that you're in the 'rust belt' (like I am).

Save the fridge for last and spend the week soaking the bolts with PB Blaster?

@Derek up North Unfortunately, I was planning on getting it out sooner, rather than later so I can finish some other high ticket items during the week. I think I spent about 2 hours last night trying to get the fridge out without removing the passenger seat... I sprayed some PB Blaster on the bolts and let it sit overnight - once my coffee is consumed, I'll be back outside to remove the passenger seat to get it out.

Here's what I accomplished yesterday - 

  • Installed new MaxxFan
  • Re-test house electrical
  • Get everything staged for working today

 

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14 hours ago, Derek up North said:

Well, since you're removing one, take them both out and replace them with something more modern and comfortable! :)

Hilarious @Derek up North... That must be one of those "Let me fix this one item - oh look! Another three things I can work on" projects...

Today turned into a demolition/prep sort of day. Completed the following - 

  • Removed passenger seat
  • Removed fridge, stove, & kitchen counter top
  • Interior floor carpet removed (I need to talk to whomever from Gardner Pacific for their liberal use of staples)
  • Insulated the back area of the camper
  • Cut FRP panels for overcab window area - will glue up tomorrow

Once the FRP panels are up, the overcab will be just about complete - I just need to slap on a coat of paint, add curtains, and then add another USB/Light outlet.

Ideally, tomorrow, I can get started on the flooring and figuring out that beast since I had to add a 1/2" of plywood for a 'new' subfloor in a small part of the coach.

Oh yea! I should probably include a photo for you all. More to come tomorrow...

Screen_Shot_2017-07-26_at_11_30_30_PM.png

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Wow. I cannot believe that I spent nearly 4 whole days working on the camper.

I can't wait to help out other members with what I've learned. Feel free to ask me any questions.

Here are some bulleted updates -

  • Ceiling installed - burlap brown looking material (not actual burlap) held up with contractor adhesive. Trim is boating rope.
  • Overcab completed - shelf created with USB Outlet + 12V battery display, cedar walls finished, old carpeting covered/replaced, FRP panelling completed,  curtains hung up
  • Kitchen sink & stove top installed and reframed - Ripped out the dry rotted MDF counter & replaced it with a desk from Ikea with the original sink + Ramblewood Cooktop (Model Number - GC2-43P)
  • Electrical conduit plastic covers added to exposed wires in over cab area (you can see this leading to the shelf)
  • Flooring added - Will be completed with quarter round as the baseboard in a couple weeks
  • Fridge picked out & electrical components selected to make it be extremely efficient
  • Tacked up custom made light covers with Glue Dots - A handful of months ago, I took a Dremel to some replacement light covers and they wouldn't stay up in the housing - this was my best solution.
  • Tested shore power electrical via my 2,000 Watt Inverter (draws about 7-10 Amps when the breaker switch is on)
  • Installed a CO and Propane monitor
  • Laid underlayment and Click-Lock flooring
  • Created an electrical control panel above the fridge area - includes 12V Bayite battery monitor, on/off for inverter, original 120V outlet, soon to had a 3 toggle switch & solar panel charger
  • Bottle opener added to outside of the camper

What remains - 

  • Install fridge insulation & electrical components
  • Hook up propane to gas stove & water heater
  • Secure kitchen countertop
  • Add piano hinges to bench seats
  • Clean the camper shell with MacGuires + Zep Polish
  • Install 200W of solar panels
  • Add fresh water container, pump, & water heater
  • Hang the rest of the curtains & reseal the dining room table
  • Maybe purchase new seats (thanks a lot for planting that idea in my head @Derek up North)
  • Miscellaneous other items

Compared to where the Sunrader was a week ago, I'm extremely happy with the progress. I think I can see the end of the renovations...

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IMG_5193.thumb.jpg.19907fafe11c40010a66858675c2f267.jpg

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Derek up North said:

Maybe getting the trim rings powder coated in the color of your choice?

Some bent and broken. Not screwing in securely and I have a large rear window for a Sunrader that came with no trim ring. Sooner or later someone is going to need it

Linda S

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2 minutes ago, linda s said:

Some bent and broken. Not screwing in securely and I have a large rear window for a Sunrader that came with no trim ring. Sooner or later someone is going to need it

Linda S

I would buy that. Mine is a rear dinette and the large plexiglass window is severely warped and covered in paint.

Edited by 256bit
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