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Inside out, or from the outside in?


Berticus

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So when fixing inner wall rot, would it be better to remove the cabinets and work from the inside, or would it be better to remove the skin and work from the out side?

I have seen videos from both sides of this coin. What are your thoughts and do you have any links to videos showing the "proper" way to attack this?

I have plans on replacing the inner walls in small sections at a time.

P.S. Is this the right board for this topic?... as personally, I feel Rot should have it's own.

B

Edited by Berticus
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I would say that would depend on type of siding/  difficulty of pulling cabinets.  

If one has corrugated sheet metal, I would pull that.  If one has fiberglas panels which I think are typically glued on, I would not.

In either case, cabinets and outside coverings are probably cross attached. 

 

doing major rot repair onside walls is just that MAJOR repairs.... I have pretty much concluded that severe rot can total one of these camper.

 

Maybe you could get your camper "dried out".  Storing in a garage with dehumidifier etc.  Also addressing the intrusion points.

Once thoroughly dried out, you might not have to "go in".

 

 

 

 

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Not the most helpful, but I'm going to say it'll depend on what it is and where it is. Also, where you are! If I was in SoCal where you could count on weeks on end of sunny weather with 0% chance of rain, I'd be more inclined to remove the outside. But up here the weather's more fickle so I'd try to leave the skin intact while I worked. Of course, if you've a garage to work in, things change too.

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2 hours ago, Berticus said:

So when fixing inner wall rot, would it be better to remove the cabinets and work from the inside, or would it be better to remove the skin and work from the out side?

I have seen videos from both sides of this coin. What are your thoughts and do you have any links to videos showing the "proper" way to attack this?

I have plans on replacing the inner walls in small sections at a time.

P.S. Is this the right board for this topic?... as personally, I feel Rot should have it's own.

B

I don't think there is any "right or wrong" here. It is just a matter of what you can do.  I have seen MANY rotted motorhomes get stripped by new owners, in an attempt to fix all rot. Most that I saw never got finished and wound up in the junkyard.   Sometimes you start out with what looks like a little rot in one area - and once you dig in - find much, much more.  My 1988 Minicruiser had the bed-over-cab area and side walls badly waterlogged and rotted.  My 1978 Toyota Chinook is mostly fiberglass and steel in the walls and roof, but the floor was completely rotted out.  That was a sandwich of Vericel and plywood.  Both were horrible projects - meaning I never want to do either again.

I took some shorts-cuts on my Minicruiser. I peeled off the aluminum skin from the side. This exposed the rotted or watersoaked 1/4" mahogany plywood underneath. I let it sit that way for two weeks, mid-August, to dry out. I then chipped out whatever was now dry and rotten, and left the rest. I patched in some new plywood here and there and put back together.  I had to reconstruct the cab with white-oak supports (naturally rot resistant).      Worked out fine - but I'd rather shoot myself then ever do again.

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I am a corporate cubical/furniture installer by trade. We do 900 cubes a floor for Intel as well as do state accounts. I was also a cabinet man for 5 years in my youth. I am not bragging, but feel I can tackle the restoration. I do not...(repeat) DO NOT want to tackle it all at once. That said, I think I am going to work from the inside out as my remodel plans are changing all of the cabinets inside. The cab over has a strong bed and windows. but as with a lot of other posts I have read, some of the inner side walls need fixed. The old paneling has some warpage , but not all. I am hoping to replace all the interior paneling as well as reinsulate. While I am doing that... I will see the extent of any damage. I am afraid to go pulling the out side panels off, as that means opening everything up to leakage. I live in the north west, so that will have to happen when I move to AZ. I do plan on rebuilding all the walls once we are in the desert, but for right now I just want to get her in shape and road ready.

Thank you for the posts and thoughts.

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in light of your cabinetry experience, surprised you even asked the Q.  absolutely agree with Derek, you're less likely to end up with an unfinished project if you go from inside.  and in Portland....there's no decision to be made.  how often do you see 2 weeks with no rain?

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I worked as a carpenter, rough and finish.   Working on a RV is quite different though.   Biggest problem is the lack of good places to fasten new wood.  No wood frame structure, or not much of one.  I find one way to deal with repairs from the inside it this.  Strip the affected area of any vinyl covering and also chisel out any rotted/wet wood. Leave what remains of the likely 1/4" mahogany that most RVs have inside.  I use heat lamps to bake it.  Once good and dry, make your new panels and then glue them in.  Add some finish nails and/or screws if wanted IF there are any nailers. Often there are not.  These RVs get paneled when empty inside and it's not like typical home construction where there are any wall-studs on 16" centers. 

I think this sort of "patch" work is extra difficult for a perfectionist.  That because there is no way to make it "perfect" without tearing it all up.  So much is a compromise.   After I got the outside all fixed on my Minicruiser, I found lots of wall rot in the bathroom.  With that, I peeled the vinyl, had to remove maybe 1/2 the 1/4" mahogany that was rotted, dry with heat lamps, etc. Then put in walls over it with glue and a few stainless-steel nails (where I could use them).  I used four-ply 3/8" marine-grade fir plywood. More for something that would not warp and last, then for appearance.  Good enough for what I wanted without doing a major tear-down.    Then I found more rot behind the kitchen sink and stove.  Did the same sort of thing. Had to remove the window first. Used a ceramic-coated type of waterproof panel for it and glued it in, and caulked, Not pretty, but I was able to do it without a major mess.

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I paid a premium for my Toy because of the lack of rot, rust, delamination.  I was redoing around a wheel well and found a small amount of rot, real pain to fix.  Then my entrance door fell apart, rot in the bottom of the door.  Not a difficult fix, but unexpected.

If things were a bit different, if I were younger and had the place to work.  I would buy a Toy with rot for cheap and take the camper off, rip it apart and use it for a pattern to build a new one!  I suspect it would be a lot quicker, eaiser and much less of a pain than trying to redo rotten wood and rusty staples in tight quarters.   My Toy has some real issues, such as too many openings in the roof, weak roof design, the window awning rail was coming loose, it's pop riveted to the fiberglass skin!  Too many useless windows,  undersized generator compartment, P poor design for house battery compartment, virtually no insulation  and on and on.  

                                                                                        Jim

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I spent a lot of time in it today... and really there is only one spot that really needs attention, the rest is solid.
I am taking her to the mechanic for an over all check list next week. First on the list is mechanical... she starts and runs great... but I want a professional opinion.
Second is a hand pumped water system, then generator/inverter and new electrical, and a composting toilet. then I will get on with the rot. once I am in AZ.

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13 hours ago, jjrbus said:

 

  I would buy a Toy with rot for cheap and take the camper off, rip it apart and use it for a pattern to build a new one! 

                                                                                      

That is what I would love to do... a complete restoration.

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13 hours ago, payaso del mar said:

 how often do you see 2 weeks with no rain?

Not often...When I lived on the coast, it rained 44days in my backyard... that is freekin biblical. :P

Edited by Berticus
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1 hour ago, Berticus said:

That is what I would love to do... a complete restoration.

I suspect for a person knowledgeable with measuring and dimensions, used to working with wood, it would be quicker than redoing an old one. Plus with redoing at the end you still have a fixed up old one.

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11 hours ago, jjrbus said:

I suspect for a person knowledgeable with measuring and dimensions, used to working with wood, it would be quicker than redoing an old one. Plus with redoing at the end you still have a fixed up old one.

I love the design and look of my little 70's machine. So if I ever do a complete restoration, I will stick to the original vision. I have no plans to do a complete restoration as I am planning on seeing all 49 states in it over the next 5 years. My plan for the next year is to just square it up for the trip. 

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I would be checking the bottom of the door for rot, mine just blind sided me!    Take a couple screws out, it they are heavenly rusted or rusted away, you may have an issue.  Much easier to fix in the driveway than on the side of the road!    Jim

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