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Hello Friends,

I am looking for some advice on an engine issue. My temperature gauge starts creeping toward the red line after a couple hours highway driving, and it is very concerning as we are 3000 miles into our trip. It cools down at lower speeds and when at idle. I have a new timing belt, new radiator, new water pump, all new belts and hoses, new coolant, all new fluids,the head gasket was replaced in 1998, but I have no indication that anything is wrong there. I have stopped at multiple mechanics but since this happens after driving for a long period it never gets hot for them.

My thoughts were that possibly we're overloaded, (I have not weighed us yet), the fan is not pulling enough fresh air, the new coolant was not flushed properly, or my expectations of the Warrior are unrealistic as we have been driving from NC to Key West to southern Texas in May.

We have a 6 cylinder engine, 1992 warrior, 46,000 miles. Any insight would be very much appreciated. We are headed to Austin TX next if you know of any good mechanics. 

Thanks!!!

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Welcome to the madness!    The first question you will be asked are the replacement parts original Toyota?  Many have had issues with aftermarket parts especially thermostats!   The second question I can think of is why did you replace all those parts, was there an issue?      Keep in touch it will get solved!    Jim

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Hey jjrbus. Thanks for the reply! The replacement parts were aftermarket parts. As far as replacing parts, all the fluids, belts and hoses, distributor cap, etc were to get the vehicle ready for our big trip. The radiator was rusted so that was replaced. Driving through Florida the heating issue started and we were led to belive it was a water pump issue, so we had that replaced along with the timing belt. That seemed to help some but it did not resolve the issue. Driving back from the Keys the fan shroud sheared off and destroyed the new radiator, so we had to get a new one. I put a lot of trust in the mechanics to get us the right parts, maybe that is naive but I am not too knowledgeable about these things, although learning a lot lately!

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anytime a radiator is replaced it may need to be burped. air bubbles can get stuck in the line; and whether or not the radiator is a toyota brand or knockoff wont matter much in this case; even if its a honda radiator.

They should have told you that when they installed the radiator about new radiator break in procedure.

follow this instructable and see if it helps: if not then could be a failed component somewhere else and you should have a mech check it out.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Burp-your-cars-cooling-system/

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assuming everything was fine before the work, I would verify the system is burped.  If it still overheats...

The next thing I would is remove the thermostat.  (3 12MM nuts, deep wheel socket will be usefull but not absolutely neccessary - some permatex ulta gray gasket stuff will seal it up when you reassemble).

 

 The correct thermostat has a jiggle valve that has to be installed "up".  It helps greatly in burping. 

Running without a thermostat will be informative.

 

Edited by DanAatTheCape
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I have heard that if orange and green antifreeze get mixed together, they can clog the cooling system.  

Do you know what antifreeze was drained out and what was put back in?

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I like to do proper diagnostics and not shotgun the problem with parts, hard to do when not a mechanic! I would make an exception in the case of the thermostat, I have read time after time where an aftermarket thermostat cause problems and replacing it with a OE Toyota one cures the issues.  In your situation I would Take Dan's advice and see if removing the thermostat helps with the issue and if so replace it with an OE Toyota one.  The Toyota one has a valve and needs to be properly installed so be careful on that and of course you will want to burp the system after replacement. Jim

 

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I agree in "being a mechanic"  versus "being a parts changer".

 

Part of diagnosing issues like this also involved information and in this case removing the thermostat for testing purposes is very low cost and won't make anything worse.  In the long run you do want a thermostat otherwise the engine should run "too cold" which is not optimal and actually may cause the ecu to never go into "closed loop" which means it starts trimming the fuel, advancing timing, etc

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SAFELY drain the system add distilled water. Then drive until you get home. Then trouble shoot things

Pure water cools better than a antifreeze/water mix.

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Again, I wouldn't drain the system; its obviously filled with just one coolant (not the orange and green) because its had its radiator replaced per the OP..

I also would not assume that any parts at all are bad per-say until the system has been burped... THEN start checking things.
did you burp the system?

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Burping the system is as good as any place to start, the price is right and not a week long project. 

As# u me ing the system has only one type of coolant in it is not something I would do, unless I personally changed the coolant or stood and watched someone else do it!

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/8592-coolant-mixing-toyota-red-and-other-green-overheating-problem/#comment-75366

 

The red and green is so xmasey

 

 

 

 

toy.PNG

Edited by jjrbus
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4 hours ago, Totem said:

JJRBUS, the mechs REPLACED his entire cooling system... dont you think that included the coolant?

As usual you are right, what was I thinking....

Did they replace the block and heater core?    Would you like fries with that cooling system?   

totem.PNG

Edited by jjrbus
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Thank you all for the great discussion! 

I burped the system, no noticeable change. While driving to Austin the hose that runs coolant to the transmission failed and  I had it replaced. When it was replaced they stated I was 4 quarts low in transmission fluid and filled it up. I drove off and the temp gauge still was about 3/4 to the red line. But after an hour or so it leveled off to slightly above half way.

I am in Austin TX and our plan is to head west. I am not sure if the rig will just continue to run hot and be OK or if I should find another mechanic to trouble shoot. When I drive it i have constant anxiety,  but I am running out of patience and money to keep going to mechanics. 

I am  leaning towards having another mechanic take a shot at it, but I am beginning to become a bit dissolussioned because the temp typically doesn't rise until after an hour or two of driving which is hard to recreation for the mechanics, so they do not really see any overheating issue in their diagnostics. 

Edited by fark
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It's possible they put in a small radiator. These came standard with a 2 row but lots of people here upgrade to a 3 row. Wonder what's in yours or if it's even the right one. Your not totally overheating your just running warmer than you should. So it's cooling just not enough.

Linda S

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This  is only my opinion.  You have a problem which is unlikely to be recreated in a shop, so spending anymore money on mechanics is a waste of time and money, plus you are traveling so the quality of the mechanic you are getting is a crap shoot.

Your problem from where I sit does not seem to be causing problems other than being concerned as you should well be.

Overheating can be a tough trouble shoot, but spending time on the net researching and a set of tools may do the trick.

If it were me my first question would be was it an issue before you had the cooling system work done.   My first move would be to burp the system.  Then pull the thermostat and drive.  Then I would be wondering if the temp gauge is accurate?     

One row radiator, 10 row radiator does not matter, it is area of exposure that counts.  Can you measure and post the dimensions of your radiator including thickness.

Here is a link to what Sherrie went through, you may be able to glean something from her experience.   

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/8460-1991-v6-30-3vz-e-overheating-please-help/&page=1

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pull your thermostat and drive without and see if it still overheats.  Also have you verified overheating versus a gauge telling you an overheat is occurring?  I doubt that the gauge is providing erroneous info but easy to check.   If it is really that hot, it will be obvious - spray a little water around under the hood.

 

if it is still overheating without a thermostat I would check timing and look at the possibility of a head gasket leak into the cooling system. One can open the radiator cap while hot if it is done VERY VERY CAREFULLY - put a thick rag over the cap, open just enough so it can release pressure (make darn sure no one is within 10 feet and the person who does it is fully clothed and keeps face away from the radiator cap).

After pressure is relieved, remove cap and observe.  A serious head gasket type of leak into cooling system will result in a "volcano" of pressure/ steam.  It will stop if the engine is shut down and restart almost immediately if restarted.

 

This test has to be done with a hot engine - and can not over emphasize the danger involved with fiddling with a hot radiator cap.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a Winnebago warrior 1991 with 9k milles engine and my temperature gage is little bit over than half way when is 25 c and over. I have the original radiator and my cooling system is clean.

I add some Hy-per Lube Super Coolant in my radiator and this stuff works.

 

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