mtdave2 Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 So my next harebrained idea is building a way to mount my dual Honda 2000 generators to my rig. I've considered all sorts of options and have decided best way to go is to build a structure to the rear end of the RV. I have all the materials. Now all I need to do is start welding. Obviously, the main concerned is weight and I figure around 400 pounds total. That includes reinforcing metal frame, the box housing the generators, the generators themselves, the cargo box on top and the usual contents put in the box. Sounds like a lot and I guess it like a little extra weight which could counterbalance a little. I have had my Honda dirt bike and a mount on the rear before, and I had no issues, so why not! here are the beginning photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 I have been Toying with something akin to what you are doing. There is a 1 1/4" hitch mounted on mine, it is has tabs welded to the existing frame extension that National put on. My thinking at the moment is to add 2 aluminum angles to the tabs one on each side and jury rigging something for the receiver to have 3 points of contact. I thinking the 3 points of contact for stability and security. Then adding an aluminum truck type tool box for one Honda 2000 genset and a grill and misc. I would think under 200 lbs? Of course the AC in the house needs attention so this project is on hold and I really need to finish other projects before I jump on this. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtdave2 Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 Cool! We are doing the same thing. My rig has the same set up, though I'm cutting it all off and starting over. Using 1.75 box steal to reinforce the extension rails with some plate steel beefing up the connection to to truck frame. I'll build the frame for the box and attach it to the rails. Thinking of using the spare tire bolts as stabilization to the boxes. I will take a ton of photos if anyone is interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 I did mine with 3" channel iron, doubled up and shimmed in several spots so it would fit tight inside the frame. I did not like adding all the weight but only good way I could come up with for a strong mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 Lot's of pictures, never know when it will help someone else. JD did you notice a difference in handling after adding your extension? I notice in your photo my box idea may block my tail lights, that is great I need another issue! Welding is out for me anymore, I no longer have a welder and cannot see the puddle so make a mess. This is what I have to start with 2 drop downs and a 1 1/4 receiver added. I do not like doing this as it will up the length of the Toy to 23 feet, thus negating the value of having a 21 foot motorhome. But see no options at this time. Plus I am quickly running out of time and need to get this usable by next month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
payaso del mar Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 keep the ideas and pix coming everyone! i'm about to have to dive into exactly this project, with the additional refinement of needing to carry 2 outboard motors back there. I have An Idea for a counterbalance but want to try it before I belabor y'all with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 House AC turned out to me a minor issue, so back to the Toy. As I ran around in circles today, I took a peak at the potential box for the rear of the Toy. It is about 70 inch wide and 20 inch high, plenty big for what I want and not very heavy. A coat of paint and it would be ok. The issue I see now is the box is going to block the tail lights. Seems my options are mount it higher up or run some lights to the back of it or look for a narrow box. I do not want to get involved in raising it, so move lights or buy smaller box. Any thoughts on this? Jim This is the box, given to me by my friend Fred, everyone should have a friend like Fred! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 What does "...building a way to melt and my dual Honda 2000 generators to my rig." mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtdave2 Posted May 7, 2016 Author Share Posted May 7, 2016 Let me ask you guys, when you think about what people mean about reinforcing, are you thinking about the spot where the hitch is attached to the frame? Or are you thinking of the frame extensions as well? For me, because I may end up towing some light trailer, I am concerned with the entire structure from the original frame all the way back. I spent a while laying under the RV inspecting the design and condition of the frame rails, what concerned me was the thin rusty metal on the extensions and the thinner stuff used for the rear hitch, the extensions may be OK for putting the boxes on the hitch but not for towing. But the hitch and how it was attached is really crappy. Heck, even the ladder step mounts are questionable. So my plan is to weld the box metal to the original frame and spot weld all the way back to the rear. Also adding another cross brace that will double as a part of my spare tire holder. Once that is done I'll attach the new hitch structure to the new box metal and the extensions. Now just to find time, and good weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 Make an L shape out of 12/14 GU sheet metal. Use it to box the extensions and over lap the frame rails. Of course welding required. The short side of the L adds a lot of strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 Not having an engineering background, does running trains count? Looking at the factory extensions, I would not trust them with much. The design is such that the roof/walls are adding some strength to the rear. But even that framework is stapled together and old and weak. So I am voting on going all the way to the original frame. I like the way JD did it! The ladder is a decoration, came from the factory with a not to be climbed on sticker Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtdave2 Posted May 8, 2016 Author Share Posted May 8, 2016 (edited) jjrbus, we do have many things in common, marines and trains! I have been a carmen and now training carmen for many years. I started putting together the hitch, looking good so far. just need the rain to stop so I can weld everything to the rig. Edited May 8, 2016 by mtdave2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 OK guys Choo Choo train it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtdave2 Posted May 9, 2016 Author Share Posted May 9, 2016 Love that ole girl. The steel steam shop is up the road a bit, I know those guys well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 You know what I miss about working on the Rail Road? NOTHING! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 good lord 2 honda 2000's on the back? why? why would you need 4000 watts and all of that weight? even beefing the frame with the box frame is going to add lbs. that rig with two gennys and the etc. will be poppin wheelies. if the gennys are for running rooftop AC, ditch one and get a coleman Mach 1 power saver. that itself will also shed 30 lbs off the roof from the regular rooftop unit. you could then have all that extra space from the hole of the extra eu2000i and sell it or use it somewhere else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
payaso del mar Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Dave, I can't speak for your maquina, but the on the Bandit, i'm going to need to add 2x3 frame reinf....factory work is pretty crappy, and then it looks like some prev owner overloaded the step bumper hitch, bent bumper down, and then welded straps in places to secure it...without ever raising it back up into correct position! I want to add a regular 2" hitch receiver and actually am "toying" with trying to use it to pull my 18' tinboat down to Mexico to leave it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtdave2 Posted May 11, 2016 Author Share Posted May 11, 2016 Totem, If I can get an ac that works with just one generator im all in! I have no cab ac so I need a set up to run my coach ac if needed. I am not too worried about the weight. thanks for the input guys. I hope to weld up the box metal to the extensions this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 An AC that would work dependably off a Honda 2000, not the Chinese clones is the holy grail of AC's I thought and figured on how to put a 9K btu mini split in the Toy but could see no way to do it and not be an eyesore. I tried to mod a 8K window unit to fit in a roof mount AC carcass but likely used the wrong window AC and it got into too much fabricating and ran out of time for that project. My Honda will run a 8K all day long in the sun in hot humid weather. If I have time before this trip I may pull the rear window and mount the window unit there and never mind the duk tape, bailing wire esthetics. Do I want to be pretty or do I want to be cool? There are some 5,7 and 8,000 btu roof airs around, but have not been made in a long time, which will run on the little Honda. I was never able to locate one, but keep looking. Also Advent claims it's roof air is 2000 watt generator friendly. http://www.tvformyrv.com/content/AtwoodACPresentation2014.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 (edited) I found that AC.. thanks to JJRBUS... I am running it right now.. the coleman MACH 1 power saver. I guarantee it will run off 1 honda 2000 easily. I got mine for $588 delivered http://www.pplmotorhomes.com was the place... best part its COLDER than my mach 3 plus that i used to run. i tested it on the watts up it barely uses 970 watts at start and settled down to 670s ish when running. 7.8 amp draw. the honda 2000 can do that no? i can post pictures or movies of it running if yall like. * disclaimer it was 73 degrees when i tested. probably will need more when HOT out but how much more? i wouldnt think much. Edited May 12, 2016 by Totem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Checking AC performance at 73 degrees is like checking fuel mileage going down Pike's peak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 well you do drive a 21 foot motorhome powered by a 4 cylinder right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Ahhh no, I have an awe inspiring V6, but I coulda had a V8! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
payaso del mar Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 given that it's a 3.0, don't you mean "awwwwww........." inspiring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtdave2 Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 I will look into that ac, still I need to get this all welded up. If I have some extra space in the box, all the better. No v6 nor 4 cylinder here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 I have found very little review on the Advent, no one has tested and reported how they achieved this marvel of technology. Here is one post from someone that has been on the RV forum a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
payaso del mar Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Quote Attwood is a major player in the marine world and I've used a ton of their stuff and always found it to be well engineered and constructed. not sure what you can extrapolate from there to A/Cs, except that the mfgr obviously cares somewhat about quality and their corp name. I will say that i'm more impressed by a pitch that doesn't just make nonspecific claims, but rather sets out (purported by mfgr) actual measurements of the common parameters, in the usual units one uses to measure such, and makes a direct comparison with actual #s against a leading competitor. the 2 fans idea might be a really good one but it seems counterintuitive to add another electric motor to reduce juice usage.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 The Attwood is either designed by an Australian company or Manufactured there, can't remember at the moment. Atwood, bought Air Command in Austrailia and built a better mousetrap for the North American market. However they were bought by Dometic, so we will likely see a drop in quality. Dometic has had ages to produce a better product. Also of note every RV market on the planet has smaller AC's than the monsters forced on us! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
payaso del mar Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 probably a function of the crappy insulation in American RVs. 13,500-18000 btu would cool my entire house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 yeah my mach 3 plus was 13500 and was extreme overkill. even the mach 1 power saver seemed a bit ridiculously cold for a small area... but still we will see in August. JJRBus is exactly right; I wont know the final stats till a reading taken at 92 Degrees or higher. When i get there i will make a youtube and post it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtdave2 Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 Making slow progress. Had to drop both holding tanks because, well, Murphy loves me. I just know I would have melted a hole in one of them, I was amazed how easily they come off. I will start prepping the metal and weld the reinforcements on this week end. The generator box is coming along well, should be a sweat set up. I have the exhaust extention nubs welded on, and I will figure out exactly where to plumb out the exhast. Lots of fun, and I actually may have good weather! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 I built a sound box for the industrial generator in my first RV. Lots of sound proofing and an auto muffler plumbed in. I was amazed how much racket the engine its self made compared to the exhaust.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtdave2 Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 (edited) well made great progress. other than my welder having issues, all went well. I think cleaning the undercoating off the metal was the hardest part. I tried all sorts of crap, finally a wire wheel did it, just snow and messy. still didn't get as clean as I would like, but that bytch is not going anywhere! I weighed the metal as I applied it, 85 pounds total. this is what I started with after some attempts to clean like i said before, i removed the tanks before i ruined them. the wiring didnt fair well either, but it was a mess anyway. good time to redo it. Edited May 22, 2016 by mtdave2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtdave2 Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 welded the box to the channel metal, cuz i is easier and better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtdave2 Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 welded to extensions, and to the original frame. fit very nicely ..too bad the welder was acting odd.. i did figure it out, near the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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