jjrbus Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Long story, I removed the furnace in my 94 Sea Breeze and reinstalled it. No gas to furnace at this time. When the thermostat calls for heat the fan comes on and after a bit I hear a click which I assume is the gas valve opening? No gas so the furnace cannot light, but the fan does not shut off, I let it run for 1/2 hour, seems it should shut off after a failed start? There is a very small view port into the combustion chamber, should I be able to see the ignitor attempting to light? Hydro flame corp. Everst Star 79/80 series. What size fuse should this be on? Any input greatly appreciated. Jim SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 10 minutes ago, jjrbus said: Long story, I removed the furnace in my 94 Sea Breeze and reinstalled it. No gas to furnace at this time. When the thermostat calls for heat the fan comes on and after a bit I hear a click which I assume is the gas valve opening? No gas so the furnace cannot light, but the fan does not shut off, I let it run for 1/2 hour, seems it should shut off after a failed start? There is a very small view port into the combustion chamber, should I be able to see the ignitor attempting to light? Hydro flame corp. Everst Star 79/80 series. What size fuse should this be on? Any input greatly appreciated. Jim SW FL If the circuit board is original - and it fails to light up - the fan pretty much runs forever and just runs cold air. The new (or aftermarket) circuit boards shut themselves off after a failed light sequence. You need to figure out if you are lacking gas or lacking spark. If no spark - you'd hear the gas valve click on - then get "no light" and then the gas would turn back off and fan would keep running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 If the fan runs and the gas valve clicks the fuse is fine. Yes you should be able to see it spark it's a little hard but yes. Turn the gas bottle on light the stove let it run for a bit then try the furnace again I'll assume it worked before you removed it.Yes the stock control board will allow the fan run until it kills the battery. The gas valve open with a pretty good clunk if it doesn't light the controller shuts the gas valve off but not the fan it stays in post purge until you turn the thermostat off or down to room temp.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Thanks for the input always needed and appreciated. Water and wiring were a bit chopped up in this when I started, I do know there was no 12V Neg to the furnace so did not work when I took it out! Gas hookup is a couple weeks off, I would like to make sure everything is copacetic before I buckle this thing up! IIRC I had a Dinosaur board in my last furnace that shut off after failing to ignite, so this did not seem right. I will try to see if I am getting a spark some night when I might be able to see it better. There was no original fuse so I have no idea what belongs in this?? Even if there was a fuse I would not trust the sizing, I am testing it with a 5 amp which is holding up. The only thing the manual states is it draws 1.2 Amp. Thanks Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 11 hours ago, jjrbus said: Thanks for the input always needed and appreciated. Water and wiring were a bit chopped up in this when I started, I do know there was no 12V Neg to the furnace so did not work when I took it out! Gas hookup is a couple weeks off, I would like to make sure everything is copacetic before I buckle this thing up! IIRC I had a Dinosaur board in my last furnace that shut off after failing to ignite, so this did not seem right. I will try to see if I am getting a spark some night when I might be able to see it better. There was no original fuse so I have no idea what belongs in this?? Even if there was a fuse I would not trust the sizing, I am testing it with a 5 amp which is holding up. The only thing the manual states is it draws 1.2 Amp. Thanks Jim More like 6-7 amps the blower is the current hog. The Dinosaur boards are a huge step up from stock they also try 3 times to light before they give up. It should have had a ground wire along with the + wire and a fuse in the load center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Being from the school of electrically declined I figured the furnace did not work without a 12V neg wire. Of course as soon as I hooked up the gas line the blower came on! I added a ground wire anyway. So 6 to 7 amps, I will try a 10 amp fuse. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 11 hours ago, jjrbus said: Being from the school of electrically declined I figured the furnace did not work without a 12V neg wire. Of course as soon as I hooked up the gas line the blower came on! I added a ground wire anyway. So 6 to 7 amps, I will try a 10 amp fuse. Jim Shoot for a 15 that would cover start up current the wires are plenty heavy enough for a 15 amp load. Using a propane line for a ground was not a real good idea on some ones part.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 I'm running out of fuse's. Time for a pick and pull run and fill up my pocket with fuses! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 if you google around, you can probably find some good documentation on your particular furnace. my 93 warrior has a suburban. It tries to light 3 times then the fan runs forever. When the thermostat is set high enough to invoke the sequence the fan runs for about 30 seconds or so to purge the system followed by the gas valve opens and the igniter sparks for about 5 seconds. If the thermocouple does not detect & report heat then the gas valve closes and after another 30 or so seconds the cycle repeats. yes you need a ground. when I got my camper several things did not work - found a bank of ground wires that were in poor shape. Cleaned them up/ had to extend a few. Vast improvement. I can see the sparks - my site window is easy to open - 2 nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moses195 Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 My 1993 started doing the same thing last winter, I took a stick (3/4" square) and tapped really briskly all around the electronics box. Started working for 2 weeks, then it it quit igniting again. A few more healthy taps got it going again. Sure I need to replace the board. Dana Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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