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3-way Dometic refrigerator crapped out


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I have a 3-way Dometic in my 21' 1988 Sunrader. It has run perfectly all these years, but now seems to be dying. It does minimal cooling if any, on 120v, 12v, propane. Flame is working.

I am trying to decide if there is anything that I can do before just ripping it out and putting in a new one or replacing the cooling unit (nearly as expensive from what I hear.)

I am assuming I have sediment built up and clogging a line. On that assumption I am considering hitting all of the lines with my massager to loosen stuff up (what the heck?) or pulling out the refrigerator and turning it upside down and shaking it.

Alternate explanation is that there is a thermostat problem, Anyone know anything about how thermostats work in these old 3 ways?

I'm probably screwed in any case, but am grasping at straws before starting to tear stuff out.

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4 hours ago, Rocinante Sunrader 88 said:

I have a 3-way Dometic in my 21' 1988 Sunrader.

Alternate explanation is that there is a thermostat problem, Anyone know anything about how thermostats work in these old 3 ways?

 

Some Dometic 3-ways have two thermostats (one electric and one propane) and others only have one. I know my 1988 has just one. So yes, a thermostat problem is possible.  But if so - the chimney would not be heating up properly.  The gas burner has a high and low heat function.  The electric part is just off or on.  So if the frig does not work in either mode - and you are sure the chimney is hot when in electric mode - then it sounds to me like it has bit the dust.  Personally - I think putting a cooling unit into a refrigerator of that vintage that has so many other parts to fail that are no longer available - a waste of money. Three-ways for sale used and working don't seem to be rare. I come across them often for $150 or less. I've got half-a-dozen here that all work fine.  In fact - I'll be removing the original from my 1988 soon even though it works OK.  Changing over to an AC electric with an inverter (converted chest freezer).

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This appears to have a single thermostat. How do I troubleshoot? If I just put 110v through the heater should that make it cool if the problem is thermostat?

Linda, I texted the craigslist guy to see what size his is in case I can't fix.

Do you have a smaller Sunrader? I think I may have met you at Pinto Lake Park in Watsonville a few years ago.

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If the boiler section is hot on any setting the cooling unit is toes up.

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3 hours ago, Rocinante Sunrader 88 said:

This appears to have a single thermostat. How do I troubleshoot? If I just put 110v through the heater should that make it cool if the problem is thermostat?

Linda, I texted the craigslist guy to see what size his is in case I can't fix.

Do you have a smaller Sunrader? I think I may have met you at Pinto Lake Park in Watsonville a few years ago.

Yes we met  at your house next to Pinto Lake. Again like all the others said just put your hand on the cooling tubes. if they are hot and the fridge isn't cold you need a new one. Crap The one I posted is a little taller and a touch wider than you old one. Specs here

https://www.americanrvcompany.com/assets/images/RefrigeratorsReplacementChart.pdf

and the one in Gold country is a 2453 and yours is a 2410. So close but so far

Linda S

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52 minutes ago, linda s said:

Yes we met at your house next to Pinto Lake. Again like all the others said just put your hand on the cooling tubes. If they are hot and the fridge isn't cold you need a new one. Crap. The one I posted is a little taller and a touch wider than you old one. Specs here

https://www.americanrvcompany.com/assets/images/RefrigeratorsReplacementChart.pdf

and the one in Gold country is a 2453 and yours is a 2410. So close but so far.

Linda S

Yeah, I just figured that out also. Looks like I need a new cooler or a new or used fridge. First I want to try pulling it out and setting it in different positions to see if that fixes it. Is there any particular trick to getting them out or should I just disconnect in the back and start pulling screws in the front?

Also, is there a particular protocol for turning it around to see if that remixes stuff in the system? I was just going to put it on one side, upside down, then the other side for an hour or so in each position. Is that long enough? Should I do it multiple times? I'm guessing given the layout that it is a waste of time to put on front or back.

Nothing too loose...

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well I've never tried the flip thing with a fridge but it's crystals in there that supposedly block it. I'm thinking heat gun to expand the metal tubes and shaking? There is another possibility though. Any chance it all leaked out. Is there any ammonia smell. Does it gurgle when it's turned on? That usually means some of the chemicals have leaked out and there is air in the system.

Linda S

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Can't hurt to try, have to take it out anyway and this way I can check it before ripping out my passenger seat.

Never had ammonia smell. Dead sure.

I think that it has always gurgled, even when working fine, but I could be making that up.

If this does not work I am going to go for an Amish cooler unit, unless folks have better suggestions. Supposed to be brand new,$430 after I pay shipping and send back core.

http://rvcoolingunit.com/RM2401-Dometic-Cooling-Unit-P10906.aspx

 

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Isn't your Sunrader a rear dinette. The guys that did mine never pulled it out. They put it face down on the dinette bed on a tarp and installed it in place. My son-in-law replaced the cooling unit on my Tiger Provan in about an hour. Not all that complicated and those cooling units come with complete instructions. They last a very long time too. My Sunrader fridge didn't work when I got it and I had the cooling unit replaced right away. Must have been 12 years ago. No problems since so it is really worth the money

Linda S

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7 hours ago, Rocinante Sunrader 88 said:

Can't hurt to try, have to take it out anyway and this way I can check it before ripping out my passenger seat.

Never had ammonia smell. Dead sure.

I think that it has always gurgled, even when working fine, but I could be making that up.

If this does not work I am going to go for an Amish cooler unit, unless folks have better suggestions. Supposed to be brand new,$430 after I pay shipping and send back core.

http://rvcoolingunit.com/RM2401-Dometic-Cooling-Unit-P10906.aspx

 

That's the way I would go IF I wanted a new cooling unit. Many parts are no longer available for your refrigerator.  Subsequently,I'd make sure the rest is OK before throwing money at a cooling unit.  Like the thermostat?  Burner where it connects to the chimney?  Gas regulating valve? My 88 Minicruiser has a RM2400 and the chimney area is almost gone from corrosion.  No new parts available.  A cooling unit does not fix any of the other problems and does not come with new controls.

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7 hours ago, Rocinante Sunrader 88 said:

Can't hurt to try, have to take it out anyway and this way I can check it before ripping out my passenger seat.

Never had ammonia smell. Dead sure.

I think that it has always gurgled, even when working fine, but I could be making that up.

If this does not work I am going to go for an Amish cooler unit, unless folks have better suggestions. Supposed to be brand new,$430 after I pay shipping and send back core.

http://rvcoolingunit.com/RM2401-Dometic-Cooling-Unit-P10906.aspx

 

They don't have to leak to be bad.

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Try these guys they have a lot of parts thermostats etc.. http://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-Thermostat-dual-AC-LP-Gas-P680921.aspx The cooling units seem to be the greatest problem. Of the Dometic's I have had over the years I never had a failure of any sort. Many of these things are still working fine after 30 years or more of service better than most household ones. I think rusted parts and such are more environmental than normal usage roof leaks, missing doors etc. There are co. out there that sell new cooling units often with a life time warranty for maybe $100 more than a rebuilt. If they are selling units as new I don't understand why they want your old one you might ask.

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My mistake. httv://rvcoolingunit.com sells both new and rebuilt. This is a rebuilt cooling unit and they do not sell a new one for the Dometic RM 2401.

Flipping the unit did no good, so I have orderd my rebuilt cooling unit. $530 counting shipping to CA, with a $100 rebate once I send the core back.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The "freon" used in these units had hydrogen and ammonia ingredients.  I read these are rather corrosive.

 

If any "solids" form they can block the smaller passageways.  As a diagnosis, I have read that you can turn one of these units upside down for 24 hours, then turn it over and after setting for a bit (maybe an hour), and turn on the unit.  Supposedly some units start to work again.

My thoughts are if such a procedure works, it is only a matter of time when the particles will once again block passageways and it will crap out.   

If you have heat and it does not work, I am guessing it is time to shop for a replacement unit. If you got 12 years out of the current unit you have done OK.

Curious, if this unit was always operated in a level position (when stationary)?

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  • 2 months later...

This weekend the city 40 miles from me had their annual "get rid of your junk for free" day.  I was over there yesterday and there were three 4 cubic foot Dometic three-way refrigerators sitting there.  They looked pretty nice.  One of the guys told me they were part of the inventory of a local camper-equipment place that is remodeling.  He was told all three of those Dometics work fine.  He said I could have all three for free if I wanted them. If I had my truck I would of taken them.  But all I had was a Chevy Tracker with my wife, kid, and dog in it. No room.  I could of gone back and gotten my truck, but I said "the heck with it." I already have six good working Dometics and one Trav'ler  three-way that work fine and I will likely never use. In fact, I will be pulling out the one in Minicruiser soon and replace it with an electric, and then I'll have seven of them sitting in my barn.  I don't like the need for leveling, nor do I like the required venting to the outside that lets moisture in.  

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I had a small dometic that got cool but not cold.  Turned it upside down overnight and freezing cold after that.  I sold it so do not know how well it will hold up over the long haul.  Jim

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Some say may have to be turned upside down overnight up to three times, some say it is a waste of time.  But it is free and in my case actually worked after one try.  Jim

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  • 2 months later...

I once tore down a Dometic from a Vanagon and did "research" on it all winter. I know the burner orifice can clog, and is critical for the correct heat. This particular Dometic had never been used, though it was thirty years old. I thought I had a gem, but nothing could get this unit to work. In the end, I concluded that the hydrogen had leaked out through the charging port, leaving behind the sodium bromide and additives, I think. Units that are used often might cause the threads of the charging port to seal with the additives, and might actually be the better units. My imput.

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the articles I have read all had a key component for the inversion restoration method that everyone forgets... you must RUN the fridge for a few hours and then immediately invert it after turning it off. This lets the amonia thats trapped melt the crystals. Taking a heat gun to coils while upside down is a new method also, but the known one was to prep it to be inverted, run it for few hours and THEN invert it.

just inverting a dormant fridge wont melt crystals.

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On 5/26/2016 at 2:20 PM, jdemaris said:

This weekend the city 40 miles from me had their annual "get rid of your junk for free" day.  I was over there yesterday and there were three 4 cubic foot Dometic three-way refrigerators sitting there.  They looked pretty nice.  One of the guys told me they were part of the inventory of a local camper-equipment place that is remodeling.  He was told all three of those Dometics work fine.  He said I could have all three for free if I wanted them. If I had my truck I would of taken them.  But all I had was a Chevy Tracker with my wife, kid, and dog in it. No room.  I could of gone back and gotten my truck, but I said "the heck with it." I already have six good working Dometics and one Trav'ler  three-way that work fine and I will likely never use. In fact, I will be pulling out the one in Minicruiser soon and replace it with an electric, and then I'll have seven of them sitting in my barn.  I don't like the need for leveling, nor do I like the required venting to the outside that lets moisture in.  

If you have or can find all of these things so cheap why don't you put them up for sale on this site?

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On 8/12/2016 at 1:55 PM, Totem said:

the articles I have read all had a key component for the inversion restoration method that everyone forgets... you must RUN the fridge for a few hours and then immediately invert it after turning it off. This lets the amonia thats trapped melt the crystals. Taking a heat gun to coils while upside down is a new method also, but the known one was to prep it to be inverted, run it for few hours and THEN invert it.

just inverting a dormant fridge wont melt crystals.

Take it out first then plug it in and run it, immediately is not so easy if it's still in the MH. It may work for some but it usually doesn't work.

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36 minutes ago, Maineah said:

If you have or can find all of these things so cheap why don't you put them up for sale on this site?

I've offered people from this site  working refrigerators many times.   Last time I offered one for $25 and offer was not taken.  One big problem is shipping costs for something that large and heavy.  I also want nothing to do with trying to make a profit selling any used appliances.  If I have something extra here and someone needs it - fine.  Sometimes I give stuff away for free.  Not interesting in trying to make money doing it.  Too time consuming and often a cause of hard-feelings.  I had a guy from this forum come to my place for a used and working A43D. I offered it to him for free. He was nice enough to try to pay me anyway but I did not accept.   I figure that with many things - if I give it away - no one can complain later and maybe someone will be helped out.  I come across used working 3-way refrigerators often. Often free for the taking if I am willing to remove from an  RV being junked.  I used to do it but no more. Not worth the bother;. I see no shortage of them and I already likely have a lifetime supply for myself.

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1 hour ago, jdemaris said:

I've offered people from this site  working refrigerators many times.   Last time I offered one for $25 and offer was not taken.  One big problem is shipping costs for something that large and heavy.  I also want nothing to do with trying to make a profit selling any used appliances.  If I have something extra here and someone needs it - fine.  Sometimes I give stuff away for free.  Not interesting in trying to make money doing it.  Too time consuming and often a cause of hard-feelings.  I had a guy from this forum come to my place for a used and working A43D. I offered it to him for free. He was nice enough to try to pay me anyway but I did not accept.   I figure that with many things - if I give it away - no one can complain later and maybe someone will be helped out.  I come across used working 3-way refrigerators often. Often free for the taking if I am willing to remove from an  RV being junked.  I used to do it but no more. Not worth the bother;. I see no shortage of them and I already likely have a lifetime supply for myself.

But apparently none of these fridges have that part you needed but Dometic couldn't supply. Strange

Linda S

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13 hours ago, Maineah said:

Take it out first then plug it in and run it, immediately is not so easy if it's still in the MH. It may work for some but it usually doesn't work.

that what you suggest is not correct.. if you disconnect it it cannot run. by prepping it you are unmounting it from mount points but leaving it connected to propane. hence why they say to prep it. It very well be not so easy for some but it must be done correctly and off of propane.

if you remove it from the rig you cannot just "plug it in." to a wall. its gas powered. You could try to run some 12 volt to it if its a 3 way but not all of them are 3 way.

you will be inverting it inside the rig and you will need to disconnect the lines and wires fast before doing so but after it heats up. If done properly and there is amonia in the system still this method is known to work well.

Frankly why would you even want to take it out of the rig ? your suggestion is far more difficult for now you must unbolt a front seat. you are to leave it in the rig when you do this and invert it in the rig. you pull it in. the only reason you should remove a fridge from the rv is if its dead and beyond saving.

Edited by Totem
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Am I missing something? These fridges run just fine out of the camper and just plugged in. I understand the part about the tubes needing to be hot or at least warm before it's turned over but both of mine that I had cooling units replaced were tested first from 110 before reinstalling. Why put it all back together if something is still not right. 12 volt is only available on 3 way. All of them work on 110 that I know of. I can't see how hot from 110 would be any different than hot from propane

Linda S

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On 8/14/2016 at 10:25 PM, linda s said:

But apparently none of these fridges have that part you needed but Dometic couldn't supply. Strange

Linda S

No, not strange at all. None of the Dometics I have, have the part I need.  Not all Dometic refrigerators are the same in back.  Not all use that locking mechanism in the chimney.  That being said, I'm not going to rob a part off a good working refrigerator to stick on another.  

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7 hours ago, linda s said:

All of them work on 110 that I know of. I can't see how hot from 110 would be any different than hot from propane

Linda S

I did not read back though all text of the posts. I am missing the part where 120 volts AC versus propane was part of the discussion. So maybe I am being redundant here.  But . there certainly can be a difference.  Heat from propane comes from the bottom and heat from 120 volts AC or 12 volts DC comes from the side of the upper chimney.  One can possible make less heat then the other via a weak electric resistive heating unit or it just making poor contact with the chimney. Now if someone actually measures how hot the chimney  is - and it is the same either way - then, in that circumstance, it should make no difference.

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