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3-way Dometic refrigerator crapped out


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On 8/14/2016 at 10:25 PM, linda s said:

But apparently none of these fridges have that part you needed but Dometic couldn't supply. Strange

Linda S

I almost forgot to ask, Linda.  What exactly is your underlying motivation with such a statement?  Is this a passive-aggressive attempt to claim I have no spare refrigerators?  Or is it you do not believe I need a part not available from Dometic?    

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25 minutes ago, jdemaris said:

I almost forgot to ask, Linda.  What exactly is your underlying motivation with such a statement?  Is this a passive-aggressive attempt to claim I have no spare refrigerators?  Or is it you do not believe I need a part not available from Dometic?    

No I just don't believe some of the stories you tell. You will say anything to contradict me or try to start an argument and I'm about done with you. I spent time searching for that part, which is available, thinking it would be a bit of a peace offering so we could at least co-exist but you turned it into a worse argument. Funny most people would have just said thank you.

Linda S moderator

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The propane heating of the fridge indeed comes from underneath at the low point and heats it far better and colder inside than the 120 or 12 on a 3 way.

Ive read some folks running it for a bit on all 3 and then inverting after its all warmed up as much as possible. either way, I wouldnt waste the time pulling the seat uninstalling the fridge from outside the RV then trying to re attach to lines outside the rv or rig some cobbled 120 wire to a plug that wouldn't be safe at all. Besides, if the fridge starts working again you'd have to get it back in there etc etc.  I stand by my statement... the firdge leaves the RV when its known dead or not wanted anymore.

 

I also have a dometic RV fridge up at my cabin cobbled to a grill tank; so no I am not trying to say there is anything magical to it being in the RV. That fridge was given to me free. So I believe that JDE could get free ones. they are everywhere up north Michigan

Edited by Totem
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5 hours ago, linda s said:

No I just don't believe some of the stories you tell. You will say anything to contradict me or try to start an argument and I'm about done with you. I spent time searching for that part, which is available, thinking it would be a bit of a peace offering so we could at least co-exist but you turned it into a worse argument. Funny most people would have just said thank you.

Linda S moderator

If you can point out even one thing or "fact" I've posted- ever - that can be shown to be erroneous and just something "made up" to discredit you - I'd like to see it.  Please be specific.  What I do is post when I either have a different opinion, or knowledge of a verifiable fact that differs from what someone else has posted.  If  you do not like it; too bad.  Grow up.   Note I have never sent you any unprovoked nasty private messages, have I?  Cannot say the same for you.

As far as the locking clamp on the Dometic refrigerator?  Most people - after the crap you threw my way early on with that discussion would of said something quite different to you then "thanks."    Getting past that early part of the discussion when you first disputed my claim about not being able to find the part - you then said it was "never available", and then said you'd found one.  At what did you find?  You indeed found a Dometic part that looks like what I have. It is not listed for my refrigerator and I have no idea if it will work.  Interesting find, just the same. I mean that seriously. I do not know if it will work and won't until I actually get my hands on one. I called Dometic tech service and they say if it is not listed for my refrigerator andI should assume it is the wrong part.  Of course, they may be incorrect.

I do not know what you mean when you say you are "about done with me."   If that means you will get off my case, and stop making failed attempts to make some of my posts look foolish - that is fine with me.  Remember the impact-screwdriver post?  Some guy trying to find a way to get his Philips-head screws loose in his Chinook windows. I told him a $5 hammer-impact wrench works great and you jumped in saying my suggestion was ridiculous.  Remember?  Seems you did not even know what a hammer-impact wrench was and just made an incorrect leap and assumed some sort of air gun?  Funny. You were dead-wrong yet never apologized. Not eve close.   Yet - now - I have "short-changed" you for a part you found, unknown to be correct, after you first tried to discredit my post about that same part.

I know you know a lot Linda.  You have  made some very helpful and informative posts.   You also seem to find it impossible to accept it when you are wrong about something.  Believe it or not, I do not. I just do not accept things based on hear-say or 2nd-hand info, gleaned off the Net.  I am a trained records researcher and learned long ago to seek primary documents and verifiable facts over  "common beliefs" with no trail of proof to back them up. I do not like being wrong and but have no trouble admitting it - and then getting pissed off at myself - not someone else.

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22 hours ago, Totem said:

The propane heating of the fridge indeed comes from underneath at the low point and heats it far better and colder inside than the 120 or 12 on a 3 way.

Ive read some folks running it for a bit on all 3 and then inverting after its all warmed up as much as possible. either way, I wouldnt waste the time pulling the seat uninstalling the fridge from outside the RV then trying to re attach to lines outside the rv or rig some cobbled 120 wire to a plug that wouldn't be safe at all. Besides, if the fridge starts working again you'd have to get it back in there etc etc.  I stand by my statement... the firdge leaves the RV when its known dead or not wanted anymore.

 

I also have a dometic RV fridge up at my cabin cobbled to a grill tank; so no I am not trying to say there is anything magical to it being in the RV. That fridge was given to me free. So I believe that JDE could get free ones. they are everywhere up north Michigan

You have lost me there dude why not just plug the existing 120V fridge plug to an extension cord?That little socket behind the fridge is not for a table lamp. Last time I looked there was not enough room in a toy home to swing a cat the thing has to come out to turn the fridge over unless you plan to invert the MH. 5 minutes of seat removal and you have all the room in the world to tinker the fridge and when it still does not work (most likely scenario)  you have one less step to deal with.Hot is hot it does not matter where the heat comes from 120v,12v or propane. If it needs a cooling unit trust me it a great deal easier to replace where you have enough room to do it.The electrical unit is wrapped around the boiler the gas heats the boiler the same principle applies to both sources if it works on one it will work on the other. 

Edited by Maineah
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If you find a cheap RV fridge around here it won't work. There are 5 known RV for scrap around here of the 5, 5 of the fridges don't work I have been trying to find one for a camp. Rent a box truck bring them east you'll sell them all in a day.

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21 minutes ago, Maineah said:

If you find a cheap RV fridge around here it won't work. There are 5 known RV for scrap around here of the 5, 5 of the fridges don't work I have been trying to find one for a camp. Rent a box truck bring them east you'll sell them all in a day.

I lived in central NY for over 40 years.  Besides my own stuff, or odd-ball stuff brought to me for repair, I also worked at a RV dealership for a year in Middletown, NY (Bellows & May Inc.).  During that entire time, and up to now - I have yet to ever come a three-way fridge with a bad cooling unit.  Note I am NOT saying it does not happen.  I am simply saying I have yet to encounter one.  Many refrigerators I come across don't work, or just work on DC, or just work on AC, or just work on propane, etc.  Most have been easy fixes.  Oddly the most difficult to work on are the little RM211s in Chinooks.  I assume the reason why I come across - so far - only salvageable units is because most campers I see - sit all winter and get used maybe two weeks a year in the summer and that's it.  They sit outside, snow ruins them, and get given away and still-working appliances stripped out.  So far, seems to be the same here in northern MI.  My neighbor just towed home a 24 foot-long Jayco trailer, maybe from mid-80s?  He paid $200 for it and is going to fix it up for his daughter. Has a big, looks like a 5 cubic foot Dometic three-way and it works fine.  Furnace works fine too.  Ceiling is rotted out.  I walked over yesterday and took a look.  He has the entire ceiling ripped out and the roof "rafters" are all thin pieces of wood, maybe 2" X 3"?  No rot on them and that surprises me since the plywood ceiling was entirely rotted out.   Anyway - my point is - he just paid $200 and got a good working Dometic 3-way, a good working electronic-ignition furnace, plus and entire camper that seems to be in pretty nice shape except for the ceiling.  I no longer bother to take offers of "free motorhomes if I tow away."  NOT unless they are micro-minis.  A lot of work and just winds up with me adding to my already huge pile of RV equipment I'll likely never use.  And again, I have not encountered a huge market for the stuff. At least not locally.   I just offered a good working 3-way Dometic, 4 cubic foot to a member on this forum last week who lives in southern Michigan (I think).  I offered it to him for $25 and he did not take me up on the offer. I gave him my real name, real address, real phone number, etc.  I won't mention his name but he is free to chime in if he wants.  He can easily prove that my offers for refrigerators are not BS as one person claims around here.   He (the forum member) was taking a trip with his grandson in his Toyota RV but was not sure he wanted to wander this far north.  I can understand that. Michigan is a big place and I do not want to wander down "south."  If I did, I'd go all the way to the RV Museum in Elkhart, Indiana. I really want to camp there for a few days and use their RV research library.  

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1 hour ago, Maineah said:

You have lost me there dude why not just plug the existing 120V fridge plug to an extension cord?That little socket behind the fridge is not for a table lamp. Last time I looked there was not enough room in a toy home to swing a cat the thing has to come out to turn the fridge over unless you plan to invert the MH. 5 minutes of seat removal and you have all the room in the world to tinker the fridge and when it still does not work (most likely scenario)  you have one less step to deal with.Hot is hot it does not matter where the heat comes from 120v,12v or propane. If it needs a cooling unit trust me it a great deal easier to replace where you have enough room to do it.The electrical unit is wrapped around the boiler the gas heats the boiler the same principle applies to both sources if it works on one it will work on the other. 

i have no idea what you are talking about.. so you are going to splice a wire and plug it into a wall? and there is plenty of room in the rv to invert if you have to pull it in to pull it forward to get it out the drivers side door. in fact you will most likely invert it to remove it anyway. but hey whatever floats your boat. I agree to disagree with you this time.

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LOL ... yup mine is OLD and hard wired in. thats a dang new looking fridge... Mine is like a RM 300 or something, one of the first ones I think. I will get a picture. There's heavy gauge wires going into a patch panel in it for both 12 and 120 supply in mine.
I foolishly assumed they were all like that. I was wrong.

 

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I recently looked at another Sunrader older than yours and the fridge had a plug. maybe it was an east coast thing. My friend used to have an old 82 Coachman Caper and his fridge has a plug too so it's not just a new thing

Linda S

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My wife and I have the suspicion that the fridge in our sunrader is NOT original to the build. We think its a replacement thats older than what was in it. When I get home I will get its info.

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  • 7 months later...

I've been reading through all these fridge posts - still battling to understand whether mine is dead or alive or fixable.  On AC things are getting warm or hot as I noted in the photo below.  But the cooling fins up behind the freezer have not changed temp at all.  This is all based on my finger touch.  It's been on for the last 5 hrs (on AC); the temperature in the freezer started at 40 and is still 40degF :(  It's probably 50degF outside in the sun right now.  Last night was 27degF and the fridge is in the garage which hasn't warmed up to the outside temp.  I do hear fluid moving around, a slight gurgling sound.  I had it upside down for the last 24hrs before turning it on today.  I have the setting on maximum cold.  Thoughts?  Thanks!

IMG_20170403_131538137.jpg

Edited by MaineErik
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On 8/18/2016 at 0:49 PM, Totem said:

My wife and I have the suspicion that the fridge in our sunrader is NOT original to the build. We think its a replacement thats older than what was in it. When I get home I will get its info.

By code the plug is a disconnect because you can not be in sight of a breaker so if it's hard wired it's not code. They should all plug in.

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On 4/8/2017 at 10:35 AM, Totem said:

Verified fridge was oem long ago. Monterey Liesure must not have cares for code.

Because it was OEM does not mean it was wired correctly in the field nor does it mean some one in the last 25 years did not change it.

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4 hours ago, Totem said:

right because taking something code to not code would be on most peoples to do list. Got it.

Apparently so. 

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