Rewiring Power Source - Battery to Fuse Box - in 22R

[PatrickFisherProject]

I have a 1984 Toyota Sunrader.  I have posted in the Electrical forum in the past and everyone was a great help in diagnosing my problems.  I come to you all with another problem. 

The wiring from my main battery is a mess, specifically coming from the positive terminal.  I cannot imagine this mess was factory installed, but perhaps it was.  

I want to clean up the wiring that leads from the battery to the fuse box.  I've had issues with power cutting out and I'm almost certain that this wiring nightmare is the source of my problem. Any helpful hints or suggestions before I run new wires? 

Additionally, what's the thin red wire leading off the positive terminal?  It doesn't connect to the fuse box. 

[zero]

When it was wired by Toyota - there were only two wires coming off the positive battery post. One heavy lead going directly to the starter-motor.  Also a smaller lead that led to a set of three fusible links.  I have the 1983 and 1985 wiring diagrams and they differ slightly.  No 1984 here so not sure if it's like an 83 or an 85.  Not sure if you care anyway.   1985 has the smaller wire coming off the battery going to a main "system" fusible link, and then on to a pair to "circuit" fusible links.  80 amps and 30 amps.  1983 has the smaller lead going to a junction where it gets split into three circuits and each has its own fusible link.  Your rig has obviously been rewired and done so badly.  Most RVs I look at are like that.    Check and find out how your battery isolator is wired in.  I find that rewiring for isolators is where a lot of wiring "monkey business" comes from.

[Maineah]

Yeah from the looks like it probably  has a solid state isolator. Have a look at your fuse box and see what the large fuses are all of that mess needs to have some protective fusing it looks like it has at least a 60 amp alternator fuse and probably an unused glow plug slot. There is also a hanging body ground wire that needs a home. You are a little far away from Maine so I can't see it from my house but any that has a power source like a battery needs to have fusing.

[PatrickFisherProject]

@Maineah Here are photos of my fuse box.  I do have a solid state isolator.  It is a 90 Amp Noco.  

I took my vehicle to a mechanic to have him clean up the wiring.  He informed me that my isolator was cracked, so I'm purchasing a new one on Amazon.  He also suggested a new fuse box.  Any thoughts as to where I can buy a replacement fuse box?

Feel free to email me.  patrick@nestoftents.com 

[fred heath]

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/p.php?s=fuse+block&sb=Go%21

 

These people may have something you can use.

[Maineah]

I really see no need to replace it it would be far simpler to repair. There is no corrosion or rust or signs of over heated connections. There seems to be only two connection that need to be remade.

[Maineah]

There are two reasons I don't like solid state isolators. One they require disturbing factory alternator wiring and the second is voltage drop across the diodes. They work fine when done well and are no problem but---  Automotive wiring is becoming a lost art I see no reason some one could not fix your wiring and make a nice job of what you got there.

[Totem]

Disagree^  ; I think solid state is the way to go. better performance and as to "disturbing factory alternator wiring" I'd lay money that's well done already happened  on a rig this age from alternator replacement alone. There is a reason we use solid state electronics now these days. in the case of isolators it prevents Arc ( which is important on things like these with gas hoses older than the the internet ) and has a longer lifespan; should outlast the vehicle and is safer that potentially being an ignition source for stray hydrogen or gasoline fumes..

Edited February 29, 2016 by Totem