baconman615 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Hello fellow motorhomies. So, I have a 1984 Sunradar and a 1988 Winnebago. I am transferring the 88 engine/tranny/axles into my 84. That will be a 22RE where my 22R is now. Questions: Will I need to transfer fuel tanks as well? Can I just install a fuel pump somewhere? Or will I have to get creative and modify my current tank? THANK YOU for sharing any knowledge you have. I am a passionate homely motor man and completely dedicated to my Sunradar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 You can get a HP inline fuel pump. BUT you have to install a fuel return line and you have to transfer the wiring harness and computer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
payaso del mar Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 hey, if you like homely motors, we got a 22r/RE for ya right here..... WME is 100% correct. you might be able to retrofit a later fuel pump into your tank, but most of the Euro stuff from the 80s (Volvos, Saabs, BMWs, Benzes, FIATs) with Bosch L-Jetronic or LE-Jetronic EFI (also the 280Z) used external pumps so those aren't hard to find. look at pumps for 88-89 Volvo 244, which Rock Auto has starting at about $38 (be sure it's the external pump; internal one is just low pressure transfer pump, to get fuel from tank TO the high pressure EFI pump)(which reminds me....you'll want to mount your external pump low on the frame, at or below tank level....EFI pumps don't "suck" fuel vertically very well....this is one reason why the mfgrs now put em in the tank, to avoid having to have a 2d pump) it's possible to install a return fitting into your 84 tank....but if I were going to this much work, i'd use a new tank....avoids any tank-rust issues, and you don't have to worry about purging it of fumes so you don't have an explosion hazard when you drill, solder, or weld on it. silver solder will work to install the return fitting....you don't need to braze it, and you can do silver solder with a simple MAPP gas torch. your simplest answer might be new tank for an '85 (Same gen as your 84, i think....experts, correct me if i'm wrong) with EFI....Rock Auto has em for about 130 w/o pump or 165 with internal pump installed....and already plumbed for return line. pretty sanitary solution if it will fit. the biggest hassle on the EFI will be connecting the wiring harnesses. slow and methodical, with lots of documentation as you go and lots of pix before you pull anything off the Winne and as you go, is the way to go. my big Q is, why? unless the axle and/or trans are a big improvement also, a lot of work for not much improvement. yeah, the EFI will improve part-throttle response but it only makes about 8 hp more..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconman615 Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Thanks guys! Thanks so much! Well the 22r I have is in poor condition. The 22re runs sweet. I have done a lot of interior work to my 84 sunradar and the 88 winnebago is nasty nasy inside. My 84 is a 4 speed, and has the 5 lug death axle. The 88: 5 speed, six lug true 1 ton. Any hp is a big improvement when semis are passing me up hill. And I have it floored in 2nd gear. I did consider the weber carb/ aftermarket exhaust way of getting more ponies but then I found this winnebago with everything I need. I'll be doing a little bit of weight reduction before I start back up traveling, but I also want to attach my 200 lbs of motorcycle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 If the 22r was bad then a good running 22r would have more power than your used to. A manifold carb swap is a lot easier. Put the 22re in and remove the efi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconman615 Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 5 minutes ago, WME said: If the 22r was bad then a good running 22r would have more power than your used to. A manifold carb swap is a lot easier. Put the 22re in and remove the efi. Yeah that sounds superb, I want the 5 speed transmission though. And one has to yank the motor anyway to do this right? And just an EFI swap will still require the harness to be swapped am I right? You are awesome for trying to save me time money and headache. Thanks again. College student going to try and tackle this over the summer with help from my uncle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 10 hours ago, baconman615 said: I want the 5 speed transmission though. And one has to yank the motor anyway to do this right? No, incorrect. Trans can be pulled without removing the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 I assume a 5-speed swap involves a flywheel swap too. Is this possible with the engine in place? If possible, would it not be just as easy (or easier) to pull the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 5 speed uses same flywheel, clutch disk, pilot bearing, etc. That being said,l if someone wanted to remove the flywheel - it is easy to do once the trans is out. MUCH more work to remove the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 One comment about adding an external fuel pump to run the EFI. Electric pumps of the sort being discussed here are not designed for sucking fuel out of a tank. Primarily meant for pushing fuel. So - in the case of adding to a tank not designed for an external pump - I don't know how well it works in the long-run. Yes, there were many cars and trucks with EFI and external pumps. What I do not know is if those fuel tanks meant to be used with those pumps were of any special design - or not. I guess - if it works, it works. The real test I guess is when the RV is parked pointing up on a very steep hill. More reason to make sure that external pump is as close to the tank as possible. I know in the case of my 1992 Subaru Loyale that had an external pump and EFI - the pump was gravity fed fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
payaso del mar Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 WME has a good point: you could simplify the job a lot if you just swapped the carbie stuff over to the RE before you install it....that turns it into mostly just a simple mechanical job and no fuel tank work/replacement. this is assuming your head castings match up. you probably will have to at least use an electric pump (low pressure kind, designed for carbs) since I suspect the RE doesn't have the mechanical fuel pump boss on the head casting. I could be wrong there too. OTOH, I hate carbs cept on dirtbikes and love EFI....i'd definitely want the EFI if I were going to that much work. one other option is do the swap of drivetrain now, using the carb, then plumb in the EFI system as you have time. most of it you could do while still driving it with the carb. more work in the long run, tho.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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