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Shore Power Works All, Battery Only Doesn't Work Anything


Jake_Womack

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I have a 1989 V6 Dolphin and I do not receive any power from my battery to run any coach lights or pump. Everything works great when on shore power, but nothing works at all when I disconnect from the shore power and run on my new deep cycle battery. Any ideas? I've read briefly about the power converter under the sofa and how that has a spring that might be stuck to only run electrical off of shore power, BUT I NEED MORE INFO ON THIS and I can't seem to find any. I'm trying to do this project on my own, as I am quite handy. Can anybody help me out with some troubleshooting or tips? Thank you so much!

-Jake

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If you want comments specific to your power converter, telling us what make and model it is will be an important factor. If original - I assume you have something like a Parallax model 6300 with an automatic electric changeover relay. But I'm only guessing until you provide some more facts.

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If you want comments specific to your power converter, telling us what make and model it is will be an important factor. If original - I assume you have something like a Parallax model 6300 with an automatic electric changeover relay. But I'm only guessing until you provide some more facts.

I'm at work right now, but will get you the info when I get home. It is a stock converter. Thank you.

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That's what I figured. It has a built-in changeover relay. Search this site. I've already posted a lot of info about it.

What should I specifically search? Converter, 12v relay, no power, etc...? I'm not sure of the technical issue that is going on in my rig. Thanks.

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Yep it has a relay. If the contacts stick you will have no 12 volt battery power after unplugging it. It is very old technology with very poor voltage regulation and a big old inefficient transformer. A modern replacement switching supply would be one of the better up grades you can do. It will charge the battery far faster and can be left on charge indefinitely.

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Yep it has a relay. If the contacts stick you will have no 12 volt battery power after unplugging it. It is very old technology with very poor voltage regulation and a big old inefficient transformer. A modern replacement switching supply would be one of the better up grades you can do. It will charge the battery far faster and can be left on charge indefinitely.

Thank you! Do you have a link as to where I can buy a recommended upgraded switching supply?

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  • 2 weeks later...

There is no "relay" in there as a self-contained unit. At least not in the model 6300 I have here. It uses an electromagnet that operates a steel plunger. That plunger pushes against a little plastic micro-switch. It is that switch that is likely to go bad and a new one costs less then $10.

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Exact same concept, the 6300 and 7300 used either a rely or the micro switch they make a very nice kit to up grade those units. The micro switch current rating was marginal. They also had a tendency to scorch the floor under them.

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  • 3 months later...

Every thing DC (battery  power) no outlets no house hold stuff.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Having the same issue. Thanks for the info on the converter and micro switch. Will have to check that out tomorrow.  Can someone explain this to me?

I also have no coach power unless plugged in. However, I didn't have a battery until tonight. The picture below is right behind the battery. The lower terminal is the positive on the battery. Have not had time to trace the upper terminal yet. I know the lower terminal has 12V to ground and that the battery has the same. I would think that the upper terminal should be continuous with the lower terminal. However, when I put my Ohm meter across the two terminal it flashes between open and some random value.  Would expect it to just stay open if that were a fusable link and it were blown. (It does not look deformed at all.)  Actually I expected to see zero ohms across it.  What the heck is that thing?

Also, when on shore power, I would expect the battery to be charging. All coach functions work. However, the battery is at 12.57 which is about what I measured before I installed it. (New deep cycle marine battery that probably should be topped off.)  Expected to see somewhat higher voltage to indicate it was taking a charge. My converter looks a lot like the pictures although I haven't looked at the specific model number.

Not sure if this is relevant but the coach was originally equipped with a generator. The battery terminal in the generator box is just taped over and I did not test that for voltage and not sure what should be done with that now that there is no generator.  Bunch of low voltage wires also in there going into a female terminal with the wire going back into the coach to run the start switch and hour meter.

Thanks for your help!

Wade

 

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