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Speakers In The Coach & Screeching Furnace


davidtan

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Hi All,

Does anybody have an idea on how to pry the speaker covers off? The ones that are in the coach. It seems like they are glued on real tight.

Also, my furnace noise is getting really loud. Its starts screeching and whining. If i bang the cabinet, it goes off for a while. Is this an easy pull out. (I am thinking no because the gas line seems to be hard piped)

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I think the speaker covers just pop off but I might have made that up. Keep poking around and you'll find a way to remove them.

As far as the furnace fan goes, you'll have to remove the furnace to replace the fan motor. Some people have had some success with getting some oil into the bearings but I think that's only a temporary fix. Is it an easy pull out? Depends on your definition of "easy". (sorta' like asking Santa Claus to define "good") Turn off the propane at the tank, disconnect the gas line at the furnace, undo a few screws and wires and haul away. Sometimes the exhaust tube gets rusted/frozen in the tube going into the exterior bracket, but it'll go. Just keep twisting, pulling and swearing...

John

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Like the other guy said - easy pull out IF the chimney is not rusted together. I had to pull the furnace out of a 1983 Sunrader and it was rusted so stuck - it might as well of been welded. I wound up ruining the chimney by cutting it off on the outside.

The blower motors use "Oilite" bronze bushings. They are charged at the factory with 30W oil by heating them while immersed in oil. Their design is to be dry when cold - but as soon as they warm up - they release the trapped oil in their porous walls. So, it is not abnormal for them to screech at first if not used for awhile. If it never stops - then they are dried out. They can be removed and recharged - but it is an awful job. Better off just buying a new motor in many cases.

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Yes -hard to do it like the factory does it. I boiled mine in oil and put back in and it has worked fine ever since. That is a LOT of work and I used no vacuum or pressure. i'm sure mine are not as "good a new." I'd rather have plain bronze bushings with oil wicks like many higher-end motors have. Or better yet, just ball-bearings. If someone ever wanted to spend some extra bucks - there ARE ball-bearing motors that fit these furnaces. Problem is - you get messing around and sometimes it's more cost-effective to just buy a new furnace. Last time I checked - a ball-bearing motor was around $80 and you have to mod it a little to get it mounted. With my furnace - I spent quite a few hours taking it apart and "cooking" those bushings. I also spent $100 on a new Dinosaur control-board. If someone was paying someone else to do this work -a new furnace would be cheaper.

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I had a garden tractor with oil impregnated bronze bearings that dried out. I put the bearings in a can of 30 weight oil, heated it up, cooled it down, continue until you can't stand doing it any more. I must have heated those things up a dozen times. I used the tractor for another 10 years and never had a problem with the bearings. When the bearing heat and cool, the oil works it's way deeper into the pores, at least that is what I was told.

My speaker covers were just a tight fit that kept them on. A very tight fit. The new speakers sound much better than the old. Funny how a modern 55+ watt per channel stereo system burns out the 28 year old speakers meant to be driven by 10 watts of power.

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I only have a cover on one of the under cabinet speakers, and it says "Radio Shack". Was that "factory" in an '87 Dolphin?

I also have a "noise" from my furnace, but it sounds like two pieces of sheet metal vibrating against each other, and if I smack the grille, it stops.

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