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Which Spark Plug


shibs

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Great question. When we took our TOY to the dealer I told them to check everything in cluding compression. They took out the great looking Autolite Platinum AP3924 spark pluge and put in TOYOTA K16R-U, a non platinum plug. I was told "the older ones run better with standard plugs"

Probable the old timers on this board will have suggestions and an explaination why :)

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Great question. When we took our TOY to the dealer I told them to check everything in cluding compression. They took out the great looking Autolite Platinum AP3924 spark pluge and put in TOYOTA K16R-U, a non platinum plug. I was told "the older ones run better with standard plugs"

Probable the old timers on this board will have suggestions and an explaination why :)

My opinion is - that is utter nonsense. An engine does not know what spark plug is installed and won't run any different until a plug actually misfires. Plugs regardless of brand or type - need to be the correct heat-range to last a long time and stay clean. I'm sure you can get the correct heat range from just-about any brand for your Toyota. As far as steel versus copper versus platinum versus iridium - it has nothing to do with how the engine runs. It's about longevity. Now if we were talking about an engine with a super-high voltage ignition system and a .070" plug-gap - then the quality of the insulator on the plug can make a huge difference when voltage might spike up past 60,000-70,000 volts. Our Toyota's only run at around 35,000 volts which is not a big deal in the ignition world.

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I'm with jdemaris - spark plugs are spark plugs. People who tell you they feel a difference - it's in their head, just like those that run premium fuel when their engine only needs regular. I use iridiums in everything I own - '81 Toyota Corona 22R to my '95 Lexus LS400, and will be putting them in my newly acquired '87 Dolphin.

The big advantage with iridiums is that they'll last well over 100,000 miles. That in itself is peace of mind to me, as I drive about 40k a year.

I also live by the adage that "friends don't let friends use Fram", as I've seen and heard of engine failures when they fail. I prefer Purolator PureOne filters, as they have routinely been listed as one of the best in many studies, and I use the big (Ford type) filter on all of my 2xR/RE motors and in my Lexus (Purolator 30001), and only Valvoline oil (NAPA oil is made by Ashland - same stuff, and NAPA filters are Wix).

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Back in the old days sparkplugs were pretty basic. Never had any problems with performance.

All the new choices get confusing.

As a young hot-rodder we would file the porcelain down around the electrode to get a hotter burn. :)

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I put Bosh Platinum plugs in a few years ago thinking it would run better. Didn't in fact ran worse. When I took them out they looked really bad even though less than 5000 miles on them. I buy my plugs at Toyota now. Pre-gapped and pretty cheap

Linda S

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What I have seen over the year is this. Some times only few companies make a plug with the exact reach and heat-range a specific engine calls for. So they sell something very close but not exactly what was originally called for. So in those cases - a certain brand can make a difference. That is kind of rare though. All a spark plug has to do is make a spark inside the combustion chamber - in the correct area (between the ground electrode and center post). Having the proper heat-range means the plug won't overheat and short out the insulator, and won't run too cold and get dirty prematurely. Other then that they all run the same. Gap is a different issue. I'd never, ever trust the gap on a "pre-gapped" plug. Gap is critical. Takes around 30,000 volts to fire a plug with .032" gap and can take 50,000 volts to fire one opened a little wider. That can make the difference between an engine running fine - or skipping at high RPMs, or not running at all.

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I have for many years used the standard NGK or bosh. or nipondenso plug. in all my datsen or Toyotas. and I agree use a good filter like a wix or purolator. I would not put a fram on anything .the air filters will break apart from moter heat.and allow dirt in the moter.

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I put Bosh Platinum plugs in a few years ago thinking it would run better. Didn't in fact ran worse. When I took them out they looked really bad even though less than 5000 miles on them. I buy my plugs at Toyota now. Pre-gapped and pretty cheap

Linda S

x2, many years back I had a Honda accord, I picked some bosch 4 way plugs for it, it ran like crud.

switched it to NGK as spec'd in the owners manual, bammm, ran much better.

Yes, plugs are plugs, but as we found it is safer to stick to the oem spec'd one.

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If you put plugs in an Accord and it ran badly - it wasn't caused by the wrong brand name. Wrong gap, or factory-defect plug, yes.

Just went through this with my neighbor after I sold him my 2002 Kia Sportage. He "tuned it up" and it only ran on 3 cylinders when he got done. He was having a fit blaming the "cheap" Autolite plugs he'd installed. Note it ran fine on all 4 cylinders before his "tune up." Ends up one new plug had a cracked insulator which I suspect he did when installing it.

There is NO magic involved. A plug makes spark and that is all it can do. A spark is a spark as long as it is in the right place and strong enough. The strength is determined mostly by the voltage potential of the ignition system and resistance along the way. All a "wrong" plug can do, assuming it fits - is get dirty too soon, or run too hot and eventually get a shorted insulator. Both take time.

Now - if you have an old engine with a low voltage ignition system - and install a resistor spark plug - you might cause a problem if the engine is not designed for it. That has nothing to do with the brand name.

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If you put plugs in an Accord and it ran badly - it wasn't caused by the wrong brand name. Wrong gap, or factory-defect plug, yes.

Just went through this with my neighbor after I sold him my 2002 Kia Sportage. He "tuned it up" and it only ran on 3 cylinders when he got done. He was having a fit blaming the "cheap" Autolite plugs he'd installed. Note it ran fine on all 4 cylinders before his "tune up." Ends up one new plug had a cracked insulator which I suspect he did when installing it.

There is NO magic involved. A plug makes spark and that is all it can do. A spark is a spark as long as it is in the right place and strong enough. The strength is determined mostly by the voltage potential of the ignition system and resistance along the way. All a "wrong" plug can do, assuming it fits - is get dirty too soon, or run too hot and eventually get a shorted insulator. Both take time.

Now - if you have an old engine with a low voltage ignition system - and install a resistor spark plug - you might cause a problem if the engine is not designed for it. That has nothing to do with the brand name.

Agree, but I was not going to try to gap a 4-way bosch plug. ;-)

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What about the old "Fire Injector" spark plugs? J.C. Whitney - back in the early 60s sold these plugs with no obvious ground-electrode and claimed they could greatly increase horsepower. I was just learning how to be an idiot with a wrench and fell for it. I decided to "soup up" my dad's 1959 English Ford Anglia. Had a little flathead 1200 cc engine. I stuck in the "Fire Injectors" and destroyed the engine in just a few seconds. NOT from too much power or spark. Seems they had way too much reach and jammed against the pistons. As soon as I hit the starter - something broke internally and it never ran again. Boy was my dad pissed!

That was not the end to my early screw-ups. My dad junked the little Anglia and later got a very rare car. A 1963 Pontiac Tempest with a 326 V8 and a transaxle in the rear. A very unusual car and not many were made. Again - I tried to "soup it up" for my dad and put a Holley 2-barrel carb on it in place of the Rochester 2 barrel. I accidentally dropped the wing-nut to the air-cleaner down the carb. Instead of taking the carb off and fishing it out - I had a better idea. I decided to take it for a ride, NAIL it, and blow that damn wing nut the exhaust. NOPE. It blew the engine to pieces. Even put a hole in the block. AMAZING ! Then I tried to find a good used engine to fix it. COULD NOT FIND ONE. My dad then brought it to a shop and tried to get a new short-block put in. No good. That 326 was a special type of 326 with a unique crankshaft only to be used with a rear-transaxle car. We never found an engine and my dad wound up junking it. The car was only 3 years old.

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It looks like the Bosch platinum +4 but as a +6.

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Yup I used those same 4 way plugs and your not supposed to gap them. very expensive crap

Linda S

Yeap, the AAP guy chuckled and was kind enough to take em back. From the look his face I could tell that I was not the first one to return them.

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I had a 1969 Chrysler 105 horse outboard motor that came new with plugs like that. Ignition was a so-called high-energy capacitive-discharge system with an expensive "brain-box." After two expensive failures - I wanted to eliminate the whole damn system. I asked around at the local marina about it (no Internet at that time to search). The head mechanic told me there was no option. Just buy a new ignition box and "live with it." I did not take his word for it. I ripped out the dead ignition box, along with the coil. I stuck in a coil from a Chevy Impala, along with a ballast resistor. Tried it out and it barely ran. Then I took out those damn spark plugs with the huge gaps and stuck in some conventional Champion J6-Js with a .032" gap. Ran great. I used it for 20 more years and it never skipped a beat. Ran just as good as it did originally with those "airplane" plugs and CD ignition. Ran the same top speed, and used the same amount of fuel mix (6 gallons in 12 miles if going fast).

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The problem with those spark plugs is that they are almost completely shrouded. The four ground electrodes close the area of the spark, restricting the flame travel once the spark has ignited the mixture. They might work great with a large amount of advance in a high compression engine that is much more subject to detonation (NOT pre-ignition), but can't do much on an engine like a late ('85+) 22R/RE that has closed chamber (faster burning) heads.

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well when I said bosch plugs I new about all those fancy types but I never have bought any of them . just the old standerd bosch or regular ngk. I just recalled my dolphin had a very bad miss this spring. I had not tuned it up since I had it . I removed a set of some brand of four way crap plugs. put in a set of stock ngk and it runs great.have to look and see what they were but I don't buy that stuff.

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