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When we drive the rv, the front brakes get very hot and you can feel the heat even on the hubcaps. We just had them bled, new calipers, new brake lines from the calipers to the hard brake lines. when we drive, it feels like i am pulling another rv behind us.

So we come to you awesome guys & gals to figure out what could be causing this and how we can fix it right away.

Thank You :)

is the brakes fluid not releasing, or the master cylinder is bad or brake booster maybe, or brake push rod not right, or sticky brake pads or ?

edit: 1984 toyota rader 4-speed manual motorhome

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So is there a reason your not taking it back to the guys who did all that work. Seems like they should fix it. Yes master cylinder can get gunked up and not release but doesn't happen suddenly

Linda S

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sounds to me like brakes not releasing all the way . can even be caused by not being bled properly.

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So is there a reason your not taking it back to the guys who did all that work. Seems like they should fix it. Yes master cylinder can get gunked up and not release but doesn't happen suddenly

Linda S

it was happening before we took it to them, As you drive it, it feels like presure is building up in the brake pedal and it gets tighter as the engine heats up. every once in a while it kinda lets go and then tightens up again.

i was just seeing if you guys would give me a second opion before i go back to the same people to try to fix it again. fixing these things is not cheap. lol

i was hoping it was just the calipers and not the master cylinder or the booster.

here's the next question, if i do the master, should i do the brake booster as well? and how much should it cost to have those 2 things changed, apx?

1984 toyota rader 22r

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it might be a good ideal to have a look at the rear brakes. If they are not working properly the fronts are going to get hot it is very possible they may have a rusted up wheel cylinder. If it feels like the brakes are dragging it may also be a hanging parking brake cable. If the calipers are new there should be no reason for them to drag. The master cylinder more than likely is not the issue unless some one messed with the booster push rod they generally don't fail that way. All disk brakes have a slight drag to them but the front wheels should still turn with little effort off the ground. What do the guys that did the brakes have to say? It does not hurt to ask they should not charge you for an opinion.

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The vacuum-booster isn't going to cause that problem. At least - I've never seen one do it in 40 years of turning wrenches. But if in doubt - unplug the vacuum hose from it and the brakes free up.

#1 I'd jack it up - turn the wheels and verify it's the brakes dragging and not a wheel bearing burning up.

#2 if the brakes ARE dragging and the engine is not running - it is nearly impossible that the booster is doing it (no vacuum). Unplug the vacuum hose from it to be sure. Crack a bleed screw on a caliper. If the brake still drags - it is a defective caliper. If it all of-a-sudden frees up when you open the bleeder - I'd suspect the master cylinder. That or a bad rubber hose but your's are new - correct?

If you wind up getting a master cylinder - do NOT buy a "rebuilt" one. There is NO way to truly rebuilt them. Get a brand new one. $35 at NAPA.

To the converse - rebuilt calipers are fine since with them - the wear-area is replaced with new.

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You are sure those calipers were redone and have new pistons, correct? I ask because what you describe is what often happens when new brake pads get installed with used calipers. When brakes are worn - the caliper pistons are all the way out and subject to rust. Then when you stick new thicker pads in and force those rusty calipers back into the bores - they get stuck.

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you need to go thru the logical steps - like jacking it up, turning wheels etc. If your mechanic removed the calipers, it is possible to install them on wrong side = the bleed valve has to be "up".

All said & done, if the hub is getting that hot yes a wheel bearing that is too tight could do it. Or a dragging caliper. If you jack it up (use jack stands, please!) and the wheel does not turn freely, then open the bleed valve - that lets any pressure off (say a bad brake line or an obstacle at the master cylinder). If it still won't turn I would say your problem is at the hub - a bad caliper or wheel bearing.

BTW, if you take the caliper off, the floating side should float easily. When I replace front pads, I get a helper to slowly exercise (press) the brake pedal. I also put something between the pads so they pucks do not come completely out. When the helper releases the brake pedal the pads should easily retract. I do this a few times to make sure everything is moving nicely.

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