shibs Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Good Sunny Morning from west Michigan, 1. what is the correct method to drain the water system in a sunrader or winni? 2. Do the toyotas have a city water connection? 3. and then how do you go about saniziting the water system for use? 4. and lastly, how do I go about winterizing the water system including water heater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 1.) run pump till empty, then open the pex valves, open the water heater valve let drain till stops 2.) yes in the rear, looks like garden hose hookup. will not back flow into potable tank. 3.) potable water is just that. do not drink it; think about it you keep antifreeze in there in winter.... that being said a 1/4 cup liquid bleach into the tank at 1st spring fill can clean up the musty from winter storage 4.) after step one, close all pex valves, close hot water valve, add 2-3 jugs RV anti-freeze I use the pink stuff; some use windshield wiper fluid if cheaper, and then run pump until you see colored water from each of the faucets., can leave it in there or run it out and repeat step 1 which is what I do; storing it dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 3.) By definition, 'Potable' water is drinkable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 correct Derek, I meant non potable; typed so fast I skipped the non. and the fact remains, most people put antifreeze in the "fresh" water tank each year. I wouldn't advise drinking that or anything that touched it; unless one wishes to test their faith... you get the "I waited all month vulching on the pc for totem to misspell or skip a word and GOT him!" award. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmowrey Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 In theory, the pink RV antifreeze that we use to winterize our rigs (NEVER use the green deadly stuff) is non-toxic. But like Totem, I'm not willing to bet my health on it. That being said, we never drink water from the fresh water tank anyway. If it's been sanitized, it's probably okay, but I don't want to find out the hard way. In addition to possible bacterial contamination, the plastic these older tanks are made from leeches unpleasant things into the water. So we carry drinking water with us. Besides, we have the most lovely-tasting well water at our house. So we always bring that with us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanman Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Totem correct Derek, I meant non potable; typed so fast I skipped the non. and the fact remains, most people put antifreeze in the "fresh" water tank each year. I wouldn't advise drinking that or anything that touched it; unless one wishes to test their faith... you get the "I waited all month vulching on the pc for totem to misspell or skip a word and GOT him!" award. On almost every one of my posts I have to edit, mispelled words, bad puncutation, or the best " no one is going to know what you mean stated like THAT/// I never seem to see that when reviewing before I press the send button, only after it's up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibs Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 how about the hot water tank? do I just drain it or pump anti freeze into it also? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 its like 8 gallons it will start filling when the pump comes on but will stop when you shut it off; you wont have enough freeze to fill it. I always redrain it after I see color coming out of all faucets don't forget to flush toilet also till its showing color. the goal here is to get the antifreeze into anything that may still have water in it so it wont crack the plastic, copper etc. since you are in N Michigan I would advise making sure you see color come out of every water faucet on each setting, hot and cold shibs... the pipes WILL burst where you are at if not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmowrey Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Here's a link to an excellent post from this blog. It gives step by step instructions on how to properly winterize your unit. We use this every year, to be sure we aren't missing anything. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4308&hl=winterizing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 agree with jmowrey ^ that post from waiter was what I read right after I got my toy and what lead to me starting an account so that I could pester and bother all of you in here...hahahaaa love that sticky. what ever happened to waiter? haven't seen him post much lately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Shibs, What everybody else said above plus: get a water heater bypass kit and intall it on the incoming and outgoing water heater lines. The kit allows you to just turn a couple of valves on the incoming and outgoing lines and bypass the water heater entirely. That way you don't end up filling your water heater tank with anti freeze ($$$). Leave the water heater drain valve open and drive around for a few minutes. The motion will get the last of the water in the tank out and you'll be good to go. Works for me... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 agree with jmowrey ^ that post from waiter was what I read right after I got my toy and what lead to me starting an account so that I could pester and bother all of you in here...hahahaaa love that sticky. what ever happened to waiter? haven't seen him post much lately. Waiter sold his Toyota and I think bought a larger motorhome. He hasn't been on here in quite a while. I miss him too. Smart guy with so many contributions to this site I can't count them all Linda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibs Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 Here's a link to an excellent post from this blog. It gives step by step instructions on how to properly winterize your unit. We use this every year, to be sure we aren't missing anything. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4308&hl=winterizing purrrrfect, thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibs Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 Shibs, What everybody else said above plus: get a water heater bypass kit and intall it on the incoming and outgoing water heater lines. The kit allows you to just turn a couple of valves on the incoming and outgoing lines and bypass the water heater entirely. That way you don't end up filling your water heater tank with anti freeze ($$$). Leave the water heater drain valve open and drive around for a few minutes. The motion will get the last of the water in the tank out and you'll be good to go. Works for me... John John, Thanks, my tow behind camper (holiday rambler) has the bypass feature, I like the feature, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 I have a 93 Winnie Warrior. I live in FLA so I do not winterize, but I can tell you there are drains at the fresh water tank, and at low points along the lines. Also if you take the plastic plug out of the 4 gallon water heater, most of the water comes out. I have winterized one of these before - it took about 8 gallons of antifreeze to completely flush (replace the water). I made sure it came out of all the faucets and filled the 3 sewer necks. I did not have water heater bypass so I went ahead and pumped it thru after draining via the plastic plug. Sanitation per the owner manual involved using a small amount of bleach mixed with water, running it out all the faucets then draining and refilling. I try to use city water so I always have some chlorine in the water. I do not drink my fresh water but I could. Note that after setting for any period of time I do drain and refill the system - several times. Here are 3 pertinent pages from a 92 Itasca Spirit (identical to Winnie Warrior) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 With a bypass kit on the heater. I can winterize with less than 2 gallons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibs Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 Can I use this to pour RV Antifreeze into water tank? http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/1009611/00719 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Shibs, You could use that to put antifreeze into the tank but you shouldn't have to put any antifreeze in the fresh water tank. First, open the outside drain for the water tank and empty it. Then pull the hose off of the inlet side of the fresh water pump and attach a two or three foot length of hose to the pump. Put the other end of the hose into a gallon jug of RV antifreeze (You'll need two gallons for this) and turn on the pump. The pump will pull the antifreeze out of the gallon jug and you can go about opening and closing faucets just as you would if you had filled the tank with antifreeze. This way you only use a little less than two gallons of antifreeze and none gets into your tank. I've done my '85 Dolphin this way for over twenty years here in Montana and never had a problem. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibs Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 Shibs, You could use that to put antifreeze into the tank but you shouldn't have to put any antifreeze in the fresh water tank. First, open the outside drain for the water tank and empty it. Then pull the hose off of the inlet side of the fresh water pump and attach a two or three foot length of hose to the pump. Put the other end of the hose into a gallon jug of RV antifreeze (You'll need two gallons for this) and turn on the pump. The pump will pull the antifreeze out of the gallon jug and you can go about opening and closing faucets just as you would if you had filled the tank with antifreeze. This way you only use a little less than two gallons of antifreeze and none gets into your tank. I've done my '85 Dolphin this way for over twenty years here in Montana and never had a problem. John ok, that is much simpler. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Here are the 2 winterize kits you need to do this with the minimum RV antifreeze for the heater....https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-water-heaters/rv-winterizing-bypass.htm for the pump....https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/rv-pump-converter.htm There are other brands that use plastic fittings that are less money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibs Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 Thanks WME, I will get those. I have a pancake compressor, I realized that I don't have a pressure regulator on that compressor. Should I get this regulator? http://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-BTFP72326-Regulator-4-Inch-Thread/dp/B00HXD2V36 or should I look at different brand? I will use around 30 psi to clear the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff McPherson Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 We live in the SF Bay Area, so, as far as minimum temp goes, most winters we get a few nights in the mid to high 20s; every couple years we might get a couple nights in the low 20s . . . That being said, we have always used the simplified blowout method (first method in the following link). With that method you don't put any pink stuff in the fresh water side, only down the drains/toilet tank, etc. There is a some risk that low spot water in a valve or some other place, might not get blown out, but we are very, very thorough with our blowout until absolutely no water mist at all is being blown out of any fresh water outlet. We've been using that method for 12 years with our Toyhouse and, in our mild climate, we've never had a problem. Again, it's the first method here: http://rvroadtrip.us/library/winterizing.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 yeah... that's not gonna work for shibs. he in straight up northern mi where the slightest hint of wet will crack the pipe. Trust me shibs; I have aired out camp showers in a similar fashion and lost two that way at my cabin in copemish. i'm smart now and take em home in the basement. if I could pump pink in them I would. always pink your Michigan rv... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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