RVNOOBS Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 I got a bad fridge in my rig. 1981 dolphin with a (presumably) 3 way Instamatic fridge. As you can see in the close up pic the propane fitting that goes into the back of the fridge has been twisted of (by the prev. owner). Is this something I can solder/braze back on? Or is there heat sensitive stuff behind it that will be damaged. Also, the electrics 12 or 120 volt don't work. Have even checked anything yet, just wanna see what I can expect. Thanks a million!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 Correction...*Have not checked anything yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Yes I saw this. I wondered why the long thread on a new fridge when you hadn't even checked this out yet. I see no kink in the propane line. If you have propane in your tank try it. Have someone outside when you click on the lighter inside and remember to hold the button next to it in all the while. Don't let them get too close while your clicking it but they should be able to smell some propane. For electric first change out all your fuses. I don't know which one is for the fridge but just change them all to be sure. Check your circuit breaker for the 110 too. Click it on and off a couple of times and see if it's sound. See that plug in the back there. Plug your rv in and then plug a little fan or something into that circuit and see if it works. Then plug your fridge back in and see if the cooling unit gets hot or at least warm. Takes a while but make sure it's level and see if it's cold the next day. Of course I'm assuming you know how to turn the selector switch in the bottom front to electric, 12 volt and gas. Play around and check back tomorrow and let me know if anything works Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Yes I saw this. I wondered why the long thread on a new fridge when you hadn't even checked this out yet. I see no kink in the propane line. If you have propane in your tank try it. Have someone outside when you click on the lighter inside and remember to hold the button next to it in all the while. Don't let them get too close while your clicking it but they should be able to smell some propane. For electric first change out all your fuses. I don't know which one is for the fridge but just change them all to be sure. Check your circuit breaker for the 110 too. Click it on and off a couple of times and see if it's sound. See that plug in the back there. Plug your rv in and then plug a little fan or something into that circuit and see if it works. Then plug your fridge back in and see if the cooling unit gets hot or at least warm. Takes a while but make sure it's level and see if it's cold the next day. Of course I'm assuming you know how to turn the selector switch in the bottom front to electric, 12 volt and gas. Play around and check back tomorrow and let me know if anything works Linda S Really important to note: If you look closely at the two last pictures you'll see the line going in has been snapped. Turning on the propane and lighting anything would be highly dangerous. He is asking if this could be brazed to repair the line. Fridge should however work first on electric before I would put any attempt at repairing the propane side. My understanding is the these guys are limited in all sorts of resources including money. My approach would be to as you said, check all the electrical parts to this first. See if there is voltage coming in and check fuses. Besides AC is that DC input I see as well? I'm not any sort of refrigeration guy at all but do know these run off of heat. Should be able to get it to work on one form or another first before even attempting to fix the line. DC or AC should be able to make cold. If you can get it cold first, to repair the propane line that sheared off, I would use a slightly under tap size left hand turn drill bit with a drill in reverse and slowly drill out the broken piece. Often times doing it this way, the heat from the bit and reverse rotation will back the broken piece out. Worse case you have to run a pipe tap to clean the threads out. The other more common option is an easy out but on the soft metal might not be as effective. Braising that valve would not be an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Yup looks like I missed that. Glad your around to correct me. So make sure propane is off and check electric. If it works on electric it means the cooling unit still works. Then you just have to find someone who can fix the propane line. Big thanks Don Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 OK, I dinked around with my fridge today. when switched to 115V the "heat tubes" get hot quick. On 12V they get hot slower. the only fuse I found was the fuseable link in the pic. No fuse in it but the "heat tubes" (someone please correct me) get hot. I was able to extract the propane fitting with very little effort! There is a pic of it attached as well. Is this a specialty piece? It's 1/4" ID through middle with a 3/8" flare (the big end) and a smaller finer threaded fitting on the other end (the end that was broken off). Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 P.S. It is an Instamatic IM4330, google search said "No Matches found for your search" I didn't know that there was anything Google didn't know..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 I just measured a little better and it's actually 7/32" ID..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 OK, I dinked around with my fridge today. when switched to 115V the "heat tubes" get hot quick. On 12V they get hot slower. Heat is good. The key is, leave it run and does the inside get cold? Nothing the propane does the AC or DC doesn't. All three are only a heat source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 It's real hard to tell but it looks like 1/4 pipe thread the other end is 3/8 copper. I would buy a 1/4 " pipe nipple and see it fits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad wolfe Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 try checking Insta-Matic 3 way fridge .I got plenty of hits on google. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Or just try this. Yours is probably the IM4 but with some extra numbers thrown in. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/im272.pdf Linda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Don, I only let it run about 15-20 minutes each on 120V and 12V, should I have waited longer? Maine, I think a trip to the local plumbing supply is in order, you think Home Cheapo would have something like that? Also, I was thinking of teflon taping every LP joint I can get to in the whole rig. Is it worth the work to take apart, clean and tape them all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 You need to let it run overnight to see if it works. Absorption refrigerators don't cool fast like compressor ones do. Tape on propane connections is a good thing to use but not Teflon plumbing tape. Buy the yellow tape for gas fittings. Most hardware stores carry it Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Yes, I'd plug it into AC (easiest to run for a long time) and see if it gets cold overnight like Linda said. Mine didn't work at all either. Well it sort of was dead. Got a little cool at first. Almost wish I had done some more research before I bought a replacement. I had it pulled out and paid to dispose of it. Then I read that you can sometimes turn these things upside down for a few minutes and sometimes they will work. On a refrigeration tech forum a repair guy said they put a big pot of boiling water inside to accomplish the same thing. Everything I've read on this says this has mixed results but if dead, so what. Either way you are going to pull it out and dispose of it. When I replaced mine, I needed fittings and Home Depot had a big selection of them. The yellow tape is good but only on the pipe threaded stuff and no tape on the flare fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Don, I only let it run about 15-20 minutes each on 120V and 12V, should I have waited longer? Maine, I think a trip to the local plumbing supply is in order, you think Home Cheapo would have something like that? Also, I was thinking of teflon taping every LP joint I can get to in the whole rig. Is it worth the work to take apart, clean and tape them all? Your biggest problem is the transition to a 3/8 flair fitting it may take a couple of fittings. Like others have said not just regular Teflon tape if you can find it in the store a product called Gasola is made for gas fittings it is a "pipe dope". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 WOW! You guys really came through with the info yet again, I'll be plugging it back in today and letting it go. I'll let you know the results. Linda, I can go along with the broad range of the IM4 class, are the other numbers important enough to make a difference? As I'm sure you all know, model numbers can be meaningless or they can mean everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 For the 'upside-down' trick, I've heard several variations. Flip it over several times. Leave upside-down for a few days. Strap upside-down in a pickup bed and drive around a while on bumpy roads. I've no idea if any are effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Hmmmm....upside down trick, what's the purpose? What is it actually doing inside when it is inverted? I know this isn't a compressor fridge but it goes against my every instinct turning it upside down. LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 If it's non-op because the ammonia has escaped, it won't change anything. If it's been operated to long, too far out of level, crystals are supposed to form, blocking the tubes. The 'theory' of the upside down trick is to dislodge and dissolve the crystals. All this from my reading on the net. And you know how reliable that is. Some say it doesn't work. Some say it does. And some say it does, temporarily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 So, I got my propane fitting built and installed. It ended up being 1/8" MIP male-male hex nipple -> 1/8" MIP female, 3/8" male NPT bushing -> 3/8" female NPT, 3/8" flare. 3 pieces plus the existing elbow, not bad. Got it plug into 120V right for the next few hours at Don's advice, I have some distance to drive in the next couple days and I'll run it on 12V then. I want to exchange the propane bottle before I run the gas, the kinda rusty and I don't know how long it's been there. Can I turn a Blue Rhino tank on it's side and run it that way? That's how the old tank is situated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad wolfe Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 I think sideways tanks have a different float setup & usually cost more than a BBQ tank, probably dangerous to use your blue rhino. other more knowledgeable owners will probably reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 I think 'potentially lethal' would be a suitable choice of words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 OK, I know how to take a hint. So what you're trying to say is don't turn a grill tank on it's side. I inspected mine further and did s little price research, I think I'll stick with the one I have. I know it's been said but how long should 20 lbs of propane last with judicious use while full timing? Stove, fridge, tankless water heater, grill occasionally. I know everyone's different, it depends on this and that, just looking for a ballpark figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 OK, I know how to take a hint. So what you're trying to say is don't turn a grill tank on it's side. I inspected mine further and did s little price research, I think I'll stick with the one I have. I know it's been said but how long should 20 lbs of propane last with judicious use while full timing? Stove, fridge, tankless water heater, grill occasionally. I know everyone's different, it depends on this and that, just looking for a ballpark figure. Hey, wait a minute. So inquiring minds want to know. Does the fridge work? Information works both ways my friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Yeah if it's getting cold then good but it seems like a lot of work if it's not getting cold to hook up the propane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 You've got a propane tankless water heater? Make & model please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 OK, I know how to take a hint. So what you're trying to say is don't turn a grill tank on it's side. I inspected mine further and did s little price research, I think I'll stick with the one I have. I know it's been said but how long should 20 lbs of propane last with judicious use while full timing? Stove, fridge, tankless water heater, grill occasionally. I know everyone's different, it depends on this and that, just looking for a ballpark figure. The newer tanks are not supposed to let liquid propane out if they are on their side but one of the most dangerous things I can think of is liquid propane turning into a huge ball of flammable gas. In normal use the gas is on the top that is what you are burning not the liquid. As soon a the liquid is released it expands to 270 X its volume so you can see why liquid propane is not a good thing that's why one should never turn a standard upright tank on it's side. The tanks that lay on their side are designed to draw propane gas but not the liquid the discharge port is above the liquid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 I have removed the valve from a horizontal tank. it is NOT the same as the one in a bbq tank. the valve in the rv tank bends up so it draws the vapor off the top side. above the pool of liquid propane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 22, 2015 Author Share Posted July 22, 2015 OK, good tips! I pulled my tank out the other day and inspected, cleaned and painted it. It's not as bad as this pessimist thought. After seeing the price of a new one, I'll be keeping this one for as long as it will last. Testing the propane system today, including the fridge.....we'll see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 22, 2015 Author Share Posted July 22, 2015 Hey Don, sorry to leave you hangin'. Yes the fridge works!....on 120V. Haven't put on many road miles yet so I'm not sure if 12V works or not. But I do know that the cooling unit works, so that's good. The temps I got were 0°F in the freezer and 36°F in the fridge. This was at the lowest (coldest) setting after being on but unused for a couple days. Do these sound like good numbers? I'm OK with those temps but if they seem high I would like to look into it more from an efficiency standpoint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 Those are the optimal temps for a fridge. I'd say you have no problems. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 Glad to hear things are working out. This should be a cheaper option overall for you vs running the motor to keep a battery charged to run a mini fridge. Seems like you are quickly losing your Noob status. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 22, 2015 Author Share Posted July 22, 2015 And, drum roll please.....it works on propane! So happy about that. Yeah, I think it will be cheaper too. Only $9.28 and a smidge of propane. Don, thank you for the compliment but let's not get ahead of ourselves, I'm, at best, stumbling my way through this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVNOOBS Posted July 22, 2015 Author Share Posted July 22, 2015 Hey, I just started dinking with my furnace today, I start another topic if you'd like to follow me over there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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