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Big thumbs up for pressing on and finding the source of your leak, Jim! I recently finished replacing most of the A/C system on my 93 Celica, so I can appreciate the difficult, tedious nature of this kinda job. Sounds like you're committed to getting this job done right. Keep it up.

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Over thinking. Good thinking! The parts for a 94 Toy have the same part #'s as a 93. The 94 should be R134A

I was off to the parts store and no one has the Four Seasons 35829 in stock.

NAPA has 207092 in stock. When I get it home it has the Four Seasons part # 35829 on it. It also has the same off #'s as the Denso switch.

Denso off 27 off 2.1

NAPA off 27.0 kg off 2.0 kg

The only option I seem to have at the moment is try it and see if it works?? Jim

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Here it is a mere 8 weeks since I started this project. The timing belt and such seem to be OK as the Toy starts and runs. I was able to hold a pressure test for 10 hours and then a vacuum test for almost an hour so went ahead and started charging.

Interesting, the AC guys say put nothing but pure 134a made in the USA with no additives in system. The only one I could find is Dupont at $9 a can, I also bought a can tap. As I opened the first can the handle on the tap disintegrated, cheap Chinese crap! I also replaced my manifold set as the cheap one is not accurate and leaks.

Started filling the system and the compressor will not run, great! Check everything over and can not find a problem, but no signal to the clutch? I throw in the towel and called an AC guy. $50 for a service call. He quickly found a wiring connecter that was together but not tightly, embarrassing! I told him to go ahead and charge the system. He put in one 12 ounce can and declared the system charged! Can't be? Look at the gauges he says, that system is full. I am in an area I do not know, that's why I called so OK, paid him and off he went. Check with my AC gurus and no way no how is 1 can enough. The air coming out the vents is showing 70 degree's. Every other time I hire someone it is the same thing, incompetent, shoddy work, grab as much money as possible and run. My bad experiences are running about 50% hiring people.

With some help from the AC forum, I will attempt to fill the system for maximum performance. Jim

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I rented Autozone gauges and the first time they were ok, the second time not so good. So I bought a new set of gauges, from Harbor freight.

One of the old timers put it in simple English. It is to get the lowest vent temperature with the least amount of gas. Requires adding a little at a time and checking, This is the type of thing I like to do, tweaking. Jim

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Situation normal, everything is working, Pressures are 35/275 at idle but vent temp is 58° Clamped off the heater core and no change. Just love it when a project goes wrong! More and better challenges.

Jim SW FL

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Doesn't sound like its working to good.

Suggestions

Check at 3000 RPM

Get a big fan and put it in front of the radiator. Check that the stock fan is working.

The temp/pressure chart I posted also has a short trouble guide, just scroll down

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Situation normal, everything is working, Pressures are 35/275 at idle but vent temp is 58° Clamped off the heater core and no change. Just love it when a project goes wrong! More and better challenges.

Jim SW FL

What is the ambient air temp? 58 degrees means it's working great if it's 90 degrees F where you're working. If your shop is only 60 degrees F, then it is NOT working well. A 20 degree differential is about all you can usually hope for and some only do a 15 degree change.

If you are sure it is NOT cooling as it should, and pressures are OK - is there a an air-blending door inside the dash not working correctly?

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This is what I got today.

Temp 92, humidity 56% static with warm engine 105 lbs

Start up 30 lo 235 hi

5 min 40lo 260 hi vent 68° Vent temp is with heater lines clamped!

10 min 42lo 300hi vent 68 Vent temp is avg of 2 thermometers.

Liquid line is 125° vacuum line is 114° ????? Not sure I am getting accurate readings on liquid and vacuum line at firewall? . Jim

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Your numbers don't sound too far off to me. In my (limited) experience, the measurements you're taking should be done with the motor kept at a high idle: 1200-1500rpm (was that the case in your testing?). I don't know if your rig is drivable right now, but I bet your vent temp drops even more at highway speeds.

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Thanks for the input, measurements are taken at idle. It appears that it needs a bit more 134, but the pressures are too high. The book calls for 26.5oz and I have 20oz in it. The gurus are telling me not to add more, yet. It is a bit frustrating going through this, but interesting. Jim

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Get a big fan. The stock fan doesn't move enough air at idle. Remember AC is a heat pump you have to get rid of the heat.

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Arrrrgh! One area I completely missed. I am trying to get the right pressure and temp with the door open, the AC on outside air and the cab open to the cabin of the RV.

I sealed off the cab, shut the door, set the recirculate to inside air and holy Bat Dung Batman I got meat locker!!

At 80° and 87% humidity I have 38 lbs low and 205 hi pressure with a vent temp of 41° The 41 is with a thermometer the IR gun is showing a vent temp of 32°! Not sure which is right? Yesterday they agreed with each other within a couple degrees. I have tried comparing them on other things and they are within a couple degrees of each other?

The charts are calling for 40/50 lo and 175/210 hi, so may try and tweak with a bit more gas?

I am soooo relieved, I was starting to have visions of ripping everything out and replacing with a R12 system from a junk yard! Jim

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