Egr Valve Replacement?

[redskinman]

On to the leak down test.Had pretty much the same leakage shown on gauge for all cylinders,30-40%,I got different readings depending on how quickly I could get hoses coupled together without air escaping.
So the main thing to come out of this test that I didnt get the last time is this time I heard where the air was escaping from.Cylinders 2,3,5 and 6 I could hear air escaping when I took off oil cap to the engine.Could not hear anything from 4 or 6.I thought I might have heard a little from 4 but now I think it was my imagination.So what does that mean? I dont know if that means head gasket or something else or maybe thats normal,I'm reading where a small amount is normal.Even with me being able to hear air coming out its not like the gauge was moving past the initial mark,maybe if I kept it hooked up for a long time it might have eventually moved past 30-40%.And you have to remember,on this Harbor Freight tester 30-40% is still in the acceptable range,with a different tester like a snap on 30-40% would be really bad.
I filmed my test and hope to have it edited and be on youtube by tonight,unfortunately I'm not much better as a video editor then mechanic

[Maineah]

You got a sick engine fix the miss then go on. If the injector is plugged up it's going to be a least 16% lean because it has no fuel in #4. You can not do a leak down test with out the cylinder on TDC and I do mean TDC not a degree off compression stroke or you will have air escaping every where. Your compression is good that pretty much means the leak test is a waste of time the only thing that tells you is where the compression is leaking from if it's low.

[Maineah]

My 2011 Tacoma  V6 came from the factory like they all do with Denso's on one side NGK's on the other. Not an issue.

[WME]

A properly set up leak down gauge is not time sensitive. That's why it hooked to the air compressor

 

[darrel]

My 2004 Tacoma 3.4 came with Denso's on one side and NGK's on the other side also.   What's the deal?   Equal merchandising?

[Maineah]

I think it's to keep their suppliers happy so they will all ways have parts or maybe it's just a Japanese thing. A spark plug has one task to make a spark as long as the reach,heat range etc are correct it does not matter who makes it, it's a pretty simple device.

[Maineah]

3 hours ago, WME said:

A properly set up leak down gauge is not time sensitive. That's why it hooked to the air compressor

 

You bet ya no matter how tight an engine is it will lose air some where in fairly short order that stuff is fairly thin.

[redskinman]

 

[WME]

Well your leak check seems to be right, Good News right? But your now back to #4 injector.

[redskinman]

Well I have ordered some fuel injs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261228448791?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Gonna try and do it myself.Think I will try and do it like this guy did in this thread,looks like he didnt even undo the throttle body.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/1177857-3vz-fe-flamethrower-injector-install.html

[WME]

Don't forget your gasket set.

[redskinman]

2 hours ago, WME said:

Don't forget your gasket set.

How many gaskets do I need? Dont I just need 1? That set of injs comes with a gasket

 

[WME]

I did page down far enough, you right the kit comes with the needed gasket.

[redskinman]

Quick update. I received fuel injs in mail,couldn't do it this weekend and rain is forecast for my next 2 days off, hopefully that will change.

[vrocrider]

Suggestion to make sure you don't have an ignition problem...

To my great surprise I found I had ignition (distributor) problems by putting timing light magnetic pickup on each spark wire & looked for solid on/off fire for each cylinder. 

I put in a set of Flame Thrower rebuilt injectors. Happy with the injectors. Be prepared to blow off trash in the intake valley. I had insulation mice had left when they apparently lived there.             

[redskinman]

Well it was supposed to rain last Wed and be nice Sunday {today} but it turned out the opposite. I made other plans for Wed because I thought it was gonna rain.

It has rained all day today but it lightened up enough to let me work on it some. I have everything removed from plenum, its ready to be taken off but not going to attempt it today, hopefully next Wed.

[redskinman]

Well this is where I'm at right now.Have plenum off,went ahead and changed pcv valve although old one still rattled,I think thats a sign it still worked? 3holes on intake look black and 3 look pretty clean,I have no idea if thats the way its supposed to be.Gasket looks almost brand new,nothing broke in removing plenum I see no reason to change it unless convinced otherwise.

[redskinman]

Ok I've pulled fuel rail,1 inj doesnt have o-ring around it,I assume it's still in the hole but I'm afraid to dig around in there for fear I'll screw something up.I tried fitting new inj in same hole but it doesnt fit good.The o-rings on new injs do not look like the ones on old injs.Old injs kind of pop in hole but new injs you do not feel that"pop" when sticking them in hole.

[redskinman]

Ok was able to get a fork with one prong on it and pull out o-ring that was stuck in hole.

I did manage to break old gasket,the old gasket I was expecting to have to scrape off but it comes right off,should I put a bead of silicone gasket on intake and then put gasket on or just do it like the other one was?

thanks

Edited March 8, 2017 by redskinman

[redskinman]

Well I'm proud of myself.got it all back together and it's running.Bad news is still has misfire in cylinder 4,I'm so frustrated right now.It might be running slightly better,but engine is still shaking,pull spark plug wire out of 4 on cap and no change in how its running,but does change on the others I checked.

[redskinman]

On 2017-02-27 at 7:39 PM, vrocrider said:

Suggestion to make sure you don't have an ignition problem...

To my great surprise I found I had ignition (distributor) problems by putting timing light magnetic pickup on each spark wire & looked for solid on/off fire for each cylinder. 

I put in a set of Flame Thrower rebuilt injectors. Happy with the injectors. Be prepared to blow off trash in the intake valley. I had insulation mice had left when they apparently lived there.             

Did you have it in timing mode to do this?

I hooked my timing light up {not in timing mode} and put pickup on each wire. 1, 3 and 5 had good solid flashing light. 2, 4 and 6 had more like a solid bright light, don't know what that means.

[WME]

Not good. Back to simple checks. Switch the #4 plug wire with another. Then the spark plug. Last thing is to use a good light on #4 and one other cylinder to see if things are the same.

[redskinman]

2 hours ago, WME said:

Not good. Back to simple checks. Switch the #4 plug wire with another. Then the spark plug. Last thing is to use a good light on #4 and one other cylinder to see if things are the same.

Not sure what you mean by use a good light on 4? Do you mean pull plug and shine flashlight in hole?

I'm done for the day, will try to get back to it Sunday.

[WME]

Sorry, flying fingers and spellcheck, I mean Noid light

Edited March 8, 2017 by WME

[redskinman]

3 hours ago, WME said:

Sorry, flying fingers and spellcheck, I mean Noid light

Noid light? I thought you made that up,I had to google it.I watched a couple quick videos on how to use the noid lights and I dont see how I can use it.The videos I saw you had to start the vehicle to get the lights to work,well theres no starting this vehicle,there's too much stuff not hooked up to be able to test the injs to see if theyre getting a pulse.Doesnt the screwdriver trick tell you the same thing? If you stick screwdriver on inj and put your ear on end of screwdriver and you can hear it clicking,doesnt that mean its getting a pulse?

[WME]

Ya Noid light has nothing to do with Domino's pizza.

I thought you had it running. Some folks have had good luck with a $3 led.

The better lights will let you run the engine with the injector hooked up. What your checking is the rhythm of the computer pulse with a know good injector.

To get rhythm it's gotta be running. Just cranking the engine over all your going to see is if there is a gross no work.

You have new injectors. The odds of you getting a bad new injector and installing it in #4 are sorta far out.  What the noid is for is for you to check the computer output and wires

You have a V6, but the 22 re runs a common ground for all the injectors and has been known to have a wire break at the joining point and give you a bad intermittent signal. Don't know if the V6 is the same

Edited March 9, 2017 by WME

[redskinman]

10 hours ago, WME said:

Ya Noid light has nothing to do with Domino's pizza.

I thought you had it running. Some folks have had good luck with a $3 led.

The better lights will let you run the engine with the injector hooked up. What your checking is the rhythm of the computer pulse with a know good injector.

To get rhythm it's gotta be running. Just cranking the engine over all your going to see is if there is a gross no work.

You have new injectors. The odds of you getting a bad new injector and installing it in #4 are sorta far out.  What the noid is for is for you to check the computer output and wires

You have a V6, but the 22 re runs a common ground for all the injectors and has been known to have a wire break at the joining point and give you a bad intermittent signal. Don't know if the V6 is the same

It is running but to get to fuel rails to hook up the lights I have to take plenum off and unhook fuel lines etc etc so I would not be able to start truck. The injs aren't "new" per se,they are re-manufactured and supposedly been tested. I'm told they should have been checked with meter before installing but too late now.

 

[WME]

I though the new injectors came with pigtail adapters, can't even get to those?

 You mentioned sooted up intake runners do they have any relationship to the odd timing light behavior on 3 cylinders?

[redskinman]

10 hours ago, WME said:

I though the new injectors came with pigtail adapters, can't even get to those?

 You mentioned sooted up intake runners do they have any relationship to the odd timing light behavior on 3 cylinders?

No I cant get to the pigtails.

As far as intake runner goes,starting from front of engine the first 3 were black then the next 3 werent.I dont know what holes go to where so I dont know what it means if anything.

Looking back at my pics it looks like the first 3 go to left side and last 3 go to right side of engine{but I'm just guessing}.Whether that means anything I dont know,but those 2 sides of cylinders did react differently to timing light.

Is there a way to test the distributor with a multimeter?

Edited March 10, 2017 by redskinman

[WME]

Test

G- & G1 = 125-200 ohm

G- & G2 = 125-200 ohm

G- & NE = 155-250 ohm

Have fun

[redskinman]

On 2017-03-10 at 9:51 PM, WME said:

Test

G- & G1 = 125-200 ohm

G- & G2 = 125-200 ohm

G- & NE = 155-250 ohm

Have fun

LOL now tell me what G, G1 and NE stand for

[WME]

4 wire terminal ...terminal 1 white = NE, terminal 2 red = G1, terminal 3 black = G2, terminal 4 green = G-.

Have fun

[redskinman]

12 hours ago, WME said:

4 wire terminal ...terminal 1 white = NE, terminal 2 red = G1, terminal 3 black = G2, terminal 4 green = G-.

Have fun

ok thank you

[vrocrider]

On ‎3‎/‎8‎/‎2017 at 3:18 PM, redskinman said:

Did you have it in timing mode to do this?

I hooked my timing light up {not in timing mode} and put pickup on each wire. 1, 3 and 5 had good solid flashing light. 2, 4 and 6 had more like a solid bright light, don't know what that means.

No, not in timing mode.

Connected timing light to each plug wire looking for crisp on off flash. Didn't find correct flash on some cylinders which convinced me it was distributor.

Yota tech forums has a lot of info on this.

Tested my original Denso distributor & 2 aftermarket distributors and none completely passed the ohm test. Yota forums indicated you might find this to be the case.

Ended up getting the Spectra Premium distributor with life time warranty through Rock Auto $135. Oreilley's has this too. The Spectra is made in Taiwan while other off ebay was China. Taiwan Spectra unit much better quality on appearance & function.

It appears distributor failure on a V6 3VZE is fairly common per Yota Tech Forums. 

[redskinman]

6 hours ago, vrocrider said:

No, not in timing mode.

Connected timing light to each plug wire looking for crisp on off flash. Didn't find correct flash on some cylinders which convinced me it was distributor.

Yota tech forums has a lot of info on this.

Tested my original Denso distributor & 2 aftermarket distributors and none completely passed the ohm test. Yota forums indicated you might find this to be the case.

Ended up getting the Spectra Premium distributor with life time warranty through Rock Auto $135. Oreilley's has this too. The Spectra is made in Taiwan while other off ebay was China. Taiwan Spectra unit much better quality on appearance & function.

It appears distributor failure on a V6 3VZE is fairly common per Yota Tech Forums. 

Ok thanks

So sounds like you think testing distributor is waste of time just to go ahead and buy one and replace it which I guess is what I will do. I don't know what else to do at this point, I've tried everything. If it still has misfire after this I'm going to have to break down and take it to another garage where they will probably over charge me for another misdiagnosis.