Tony D. Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I run a small igloo dorm fridge that draws about 1 amp. I want to install a inverter but unsure of size and brands. I see several on Ebay some 1500 watt very cheap around $35. I usually only stay in parks with 110. I mostly want it for the travel time. TDS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I run a small igloo dorm fridge that draws about 1 amp. I want to install a inverter but unsure of size and brands. I see several on Ebay some 1500 watt very cheap around $35. I usually only stay in parks with 110. I mostly want it for the travel time. TDS It will draw around 11-12 amps when running @ 12 volts DC. It will also draw near 40 amps when it first kicks in on 12 volts DC. I would not use less then a 1250 watt inverter and it has to be hard-wired. NO power-port.. Running AC refrigerators on inverters can be problematic with certain model inverters. I've tested several inverters when running small AC refrigerators with normal 1 @ draw when running @ 120 VAC. I can say for sure, the 1250 watt AIMs modified wave (cheapest) does the job with no issues. I also know for sure that the 750 watt Vector does NOT. The 1250 watt AIMs cost $99 and measures 11" X 5 1/4" X 3 1/4". Also note that any modified-wave inverter can interfere with AM radio reception and sometimes your TV picture. Some higher-priced "sine-wave" inverters give less interference but there is no guarantee. In reference to you seeing 1500 watt inverters anywhere for $35? I find that hard to believe. Are you talking 1500 "continuous" watts or 1500 " momentary surge" watts? A decent 1500 watt inverter like the AIMs can run 3000-3500 watts on surge. I suspect you are seeing something like a 400 watt inverter and the seller is using the surge rating in the ad (but I could be wrong). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/US-3000W-3000-Watts-Peak-Real-1500W-Power-Inverter-Converter-12V-DC-to-110V-AC-/281379100397?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41838056ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 If you are looking at something like this - the ad is likely pure BS. That is a 700 watt inverter at best. Comes with a very brief 1500 watts surge rating that lasts less then 1 second. In my opinion, totally useless for what you want. I notice it comes with a cigarette-lighter power-port type plug. Interesting. Power-ports usually max out at 200-280 watts. If you really want to try a small inverter, try one from Walmart. Like the Stanley 800 watt inverter for $50. At least they are not totally lying and calling it a "1500" watt inverter. If it does not work, at least with Walmart - I assume you can return it. It is probably MORE inverter then the one you see on Ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/US-3000W-3000-Watts-Peak-Real-1500W-Power-Inverter-Converter-12V-DC-to-110V-AC-/281379100397?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41838056ed Not so cheap with $52 (USA) in shipping/import charges added on. Even more for Canada. No so cheap once it gets to your door-step. And does it work as advertised? No way of knowning until you are stuck with it, I bet. And I've had many that would not start small refrigerators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Maybe this one then http://www.amazon.com/Mesinton-Inverter-Adapter-Voltage-Charger/dp/B00QPPKFA4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1424819416&sr=8-8&keywords=power+inverter+1500+watt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 My RV had a dorm refrigerator when we bought it. The previous owner always camped with 120 volt power available I tried running it with a 1500 watt inverter. The frig would not even start. I pulled that frig and got my 12 volt unit that I love. We almost never camp with available power. We own a primitive site that we usually camp at and the closest power lines are 2 miles away. If we are camping there for more than 3 days, I use a cooler and ice. While traveling, the 12 volt works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D. Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Thanks everyone for all the input. Maineah are you suggesting that the one from amazon for 53.00 might be a possibility? Maybe this one then http://www.amazon.co...erter 1500 watt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 My RV had a dorm refrigerator when we bought it. The previous owner always camped with 120 volt power available I tried running it with a 1500 watt inverter. The frig would not even start. I pulled that frig and got my 12 volt unit that I love. There are some 3000 watt inverters that won't run a 200 watt AC powered refrigerator. And there are 1000 watts inverters that do the job just fine. It's just a matter of getting the correct one. The advertising claims are often misleading. I've had two RVs with AC refrigerators run on inverters that have workerd flawlessly for years. That is why I suggested the AIMs. At least with that one, I know for sure, it works fine for the job. On the same subject, many of the Norcold refrigerator sold for 12 volts DC only are actually AC refrigerators with factory-installed inverters, built in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 You are correct about my Norcold. It is a 120 with auto switching to the battery when I disconnect the 120. I really like the unit. It came out of a sailboat that was scraped and I picked it up really cheap. I would prefer a 3 way but can't find one at a good price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I think you’ll find that the new 12 volt fridge’s uses a Sawafugi compressor or similar swing motor (vibrating) type compressor the board is the controller for the swing motor not an inverter. The swing motors are far more efficient electrically than a rotary compressor. Danfoss is still a DC compressor and seem to be giving way to the swing motor type due to its higher current draw. I don’t know about the Danfoss type using 120 volts but if they do it will have a AC to DC converter 120 volt to 12 or 24 volt board. They are efficient fridges but for about the same price you can buy a new gas/electric fridge that will fit in the same place the old one did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Thanks everyone for all the input. Maineah are you suggesting that the one from amazon for 53.00 might be a possibility? Maybe this one then http://www.amazon.co...erter 1500 watt The Chinese are starting to make some decent low cost electronics’ a few years ago I would not have considered something that cheap to be worth buying. If it’s Amazon you can send it back frankly I think it will work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 The Norcold DC refrigerators from the 80s, early 90s have 20 volt AC compressors made in Japan, along with buiilt-in inverters to allow to run on 12 volts DC. Many new DC refrigerators have Danfoss compressors that run on 8 to 30 volts DC. I have a Sundanzer refrigerator with a Danfoss and last I checked, it's the most efficient refrigerator on the consumer market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I suggest you check again. Start current is extremely low it starts with low current and slowly builds up there is only one moving part even the 84 qt. unit is rated from 1 to 3.5 amp and the 22 qt is .5 to 2.5 amps they also will bring the temp down to 0* Current draw is rated from 45* to 0* so at 0* it draws it's highest current. I fell over these things when I installed one in a friends Sprinter so far they have put it to the test and are very impressed their's is a dorm size unit. My gas one does all I need it to do keeps the beer cold and the ice cream hard so there is little chance I'll switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I like my ancient oem dometic 3 way, but lord its huge; do i really need that much fridge? all the times we packed it full we ate out sometimes out of frustration with fridge overload. Beer though thats another story, love filling that thing with beer/booze; its why I havent switched yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 I suggest you check again. Start current is extremely low it starts with low current and slowly builds up there is only one moving part even the 84 qt. unit is rated from 1 to 3.5 amp and the 22 qt is .5 to 2.5 amps they also will bring the temp down to 0* Current draw is rated from 45* to 0* so at 0* it draws it's highest current. I fell over these things when I installed one in a friends Sprinter so far they have put it to the test and are very impressed their's is a dorm size unit. My gas one does all I need it to do keeps the beer cold and the ice cream hard so there is little chance I'll switch. From the specs you are giving, my Sundanzer is more efficient. Mine is 173 quarts, twice the size of the one you are talking about. On a 70 degree F day, it will run 24 hours and use 77 watt-hours (6.5 amp-hours) when used as a refrigerator. When used as a freezer, it will use 272 watt-hours (23 amp-hours) in a 24 hour day @ 70 degrees F. Yours is half the size and would need to use half the power to be equal, and less to be more efficient. A single 75 watt solar panel can run it when used as a refrigerator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 There is no governing agency for low priced inverters. They can claim anything they want. I had a friend run the numbers for me and bought an inverter based on his findings including locked rotar amps. The one I bought would not start the fridge!! Only my limited experience but I would only buy one locally that could be returned. Good luck JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 There is no governing agency for low priced inverters. They can claim anything they want. I had a friend run the numbers for me and bought an inverter based on his findings including locked rotar amps. The one I bought would not start the fridge!! Only my limited experience but I would only buy one locally that could be returned. Good luck JIm SW FL Thus the reason why I mentioned the AIMs 1250. I know it does the job. I did so after talking with several road-side food vendors who'd given up their Honda generators and were using inverters to run their refrigerators instead. All with the AIMs 1250. I'm sure there are many more brands and models that will work but it's a crap-shoot. Also - if you buy from a business that specializes in inverters - they usually know what works with what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 I have had fairly decent luck with harbor freight ones. of course the one in particular that I love they discontinued. It was one that when tested was actually better than its labeling stated. oh well cant always get good stuff cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 I have had fairly decent luck with harbor freight ones. of course the one in particular that I love they discontinued. It was one that when tested was actually better than its labeling stated. oh well cant always get good stuff cheap. I've got three of the Harbor Freight 2000/4000 watt inverters. The first ones that sold for $79 "on sale" around 10 years ago were excellent. Thermal fan that just about never comes on. The newer ones I got on sale just last year for a higher price have fans that run all the time and I find the noise infuriating (if in the camper). With all three, I've only used for TV and power tools. Never tried on an AC refrigerator so can't comment with specificity. The AIMs 1250 is cheaper and known to work great with AC refrigerators so I never even tried the HF. Maybe one of these days I'll hook one up and try one. Usually $99 shipped to your door and no sales tax. The problem with testing is it takes a lot of time. My first attempt with an AC refrigerator was with a brand new HUGE Vector/Black & Decker inverter. 3000 watt continuous and 6000 watt surge. I'd hook it to a small AC refrigerator and it would run fine. Come back a few hours later and find the inverter "off." Happened over and over. Not a good thing when you want a refrigerator to stay cool. I returned the inverter and they gave me a new replacement. Had the same problem. Had the same issue with several other large inverters. What compounds the issue is many have a "combined trip" chip so if it shuts off - no way to know why. That common breaker is supposed to trip if too hot, too low DC voltage. too much draw, and God knows what else. When I found out that many food vendors were running their AC refrigerators full-time with these AIMs inverters - I bought one and it has worked flawlessly. Actually, I have two now, in two different RVs. By the way - back to the original poster here. If you want to buy a used inverter to run your refrigerator. let me know. I've got over a dozen here. If you want to take a chance on a used one, I can hook one up to a frig and see how it does. I've got many , 1200 watts and up and all work fine with power tools and TVs and DVD players. Haven't tried them on any refrigerators. Guaranteed to be in good working order. Just cannot guarantee how well they work on refrigerators. Two are Harbor Freight units 2000/4000 watt. Also have several other "no-name"brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 From the specs you are giving, my Sundanzer is more efficient. Mine is 173 quarts, twice the size of the one you are talking about. On a 70 degree F day, it will run 24 hours and use 77 watt-hours (6.5 amp-hours) when used as a refrigerator. When used as a freezer, it will use 272 watt-hours (23 amp-hours) in a 24 hour day @ 70 degrees F. Yours is half the size and would need to use half the power to be equal, and less to be more efficient. A single 75 watt solar panel can run it when used as a refrigerator. http://www.engel-usa.com/images/stories/pdfs/CoolingPerformanceCurve_SR70F.pdf this is the unit I installed it is the only one I know any thing about or actually care about any way but pretty much of what I read seems to lean towards the swing motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 http://www.engel-usa.com/images/stories/pdfs/CoolingPerformanceCurve_SR70F.pdf this is the unit I installed it is the only one I know any thing about or actually care about any way but pretty much of what I read seems to lean towards the swing motor. If I'm reading that chart you linked to correctly, that Engel uses twice the power to cool a refrigerator half the size as the Sundanzer. 5.8 cubic-foot 12 volt Sundanzer (173 quarts) when air temp is 70 degrees F and inside the refrigerator is kept at 38 degrees F - uses 6.5 amp-hours in a 24 hour day. Same unit when air temp is 70 F and inside is set at a cooler 10 degrees F (freezer mode) uses 23 amp-hours in a 24 hour day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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