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Noob Needs Mentor


peregrination

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Greetings All,

I am a total noob. I just purchased my very first motorhome, a 1983 Dolphin with the 22R truck. The floorplan has the door, stove, and bathroom in the rear. Any help I could get with any aspect of the thing would be greatly appreciated. I'm such a noob, I don't even know how to drive the thing yet (its manual), so that is my first step. I am also going to be cleaning it up and putting in new window coverings and possibly wood veneer floors in the meantime.

The bad:

There are some old water stains around the roof

The gas gauge doesn't work

The good:

It runs!

Only 38,000 miles (supposedly)

All of the appliances work (supposedly)

I have very little clue about how all of the various components of the motorhome work, so I am researching them, but if anyone has any basic tips (e.g., how to hook up to electricity, water, etc. and pump waste) I would be ever so grateful!

Once I can drive the thing, my plan is to take it to the local RV mechanic and have them look it over to see what it needs. I can do some engine work on my own, but given that it seems to run fine and that I just bought it, I am going to have a professional address any immediate or major needs and give it new fluids, etc.

So, anyway, if anyone has experience with this year and model and wouldn't mind holding my hand a bit through this initial phase, that would be fantastic. Either way, I am very glad for this fantastic forum and all of the great info/people in.

Cheers!

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Welcome to the ToyHouse site.

You have come to the right place for help. There are many people here that really are experts at fixing these things. I got lucky when I found this site and I have relied on many of the generous people here.

Rad Wolfe did give good information about taking a look at your rear axle. Do a site search and you will find excellent information on the rear axle problems that can pop up.

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Thanks for the heads up on the axle. I checked out the recall and searched the VIN before purchasing and it showed as not being one of the affected vehicles, so hopefully I am in the clear in that regard. BTW, here are some pictures. It needs to be cleaned, but is in pretty darn good shape.

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I don't know where you checked the vin for axle recalls but all 1983 Toyota motorhomes were recalled. For us to tell you if yours has been fixed or not you need to post a pic of that rear wheel without the stool in the way. Better straight on. Do the rear wheels have 6 lugs? Yours is a Dolphin and more of them were repaired than most but some were not

Linda S

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That is the 1 ton axle. You did have the upgrade.

Welcome to our forum.

Your profile name suggests you're a fellow traveler.

Lots of us on this site.

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Only thing I can add, just based on your first post, is about the RV mechanic. Don't bring it to them to check out the mechanics of the truck. They are typically extremely overpriced, and aren't necessarily the most informed.

One thing to understand right off: you don't have a "Toyota Dolphin", though that's the most simple way to refer to it. You have: a 2wd 1983 Toyota pickup. On top of that pickup, you have a Dolphin camper. They are two separate entities, joined together back in 83.

For all mechanical needs, you have a Toyota pickup which can be serviced by yourself (if you're inclined) and any regular auto mechanic who can fit it in their shop and on their lift.

For the coach (camper) needs...well, it's best to do as much as you can (safely) do yourself. But otherwise, yeah, this is where the RV mechanic comes into the picture.

There are a million other things but I won't assume too much, and will just go on what you've already posted. As you post more, it'll become more obvious what you've got right, what you're thinking about in the "wrong" way, and where you need help. It's a steep learning curve, but a fun one.

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@Linda - I will check that out when the weather clears. Thanks!

@Zach - Thanks for the info. I will be sure to have them check out the RV parts. I plan on doing the truck bits myself (I have some experience working on a 1990 Volvo 240DL, so I can do some).

I got the inside all the dead flys cleaned out of the thing, and got it generally cleaned up. I am on my way to learning to drive it too. Next step is coating the top in roof sealant with elastomeric. Once I can drive it at any speed, I am taking it to have it checked out to make sure everything works and get the fluids changed.

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Please, before you find out about driving ,whether at speed or not, check the brakes! By that I mean at least verify the brake fluid level under the hood, then before you take it on the road push down as hard as possible on the brake pedal to verify that the pedal doesn't go to the floor or blow out something in the b. system like brake lines or pop a cylinder.These old trucks have a big job to do with small brakes and a lot of weight to stop.This is especially important when a vehicle has been sitting for a while , whether just over a winter or for a year or more.

be safe and have fun

rad wolfe

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I finally plugged the ol' girl in, and it seems like the electric works (I think the battery is dead, but the converter setting works). Most of the lights--I think some just need new bulbs--and the fans came on. However, I was curious why there was a loud humming sound coming out of the vent where the battery/converter button is. Any clues as to why that might be? Also, any suggestions for keeping things (such as cleaning fluid bottles and glasses) secure while driving would be wonderful!

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I finally plugged the ol' girl in, and it seems like the electric works (I think the battery is dead, but the converter setting works). Most of the lights--I think some just need new bulbs--and the fans came on. However, I was curious why there was a loud humming sound coming out of the vent where the battery/converter button is. Any clues as to why that might be? Also, any suggestions for keeping things (such as cleaning fluid bottles and glasses) secure while driving would be wonderful!

I don't know what model converter you have. Some of the older ones make a fairly pronounced humming sound when working properly.

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The old Magnetek in my Warrior began making a louder humming when the fan locked up.

I ended upgrading to a solid state model.

The old unit went to a buddy who wanted to convert it into a low voltage welder.

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Update: Got the roof sealed with elastomeric. I decided to coat the whole thing, just in case there were some non-obvious leaky areas. I think I may do another coat in a week or two when I have a few days of good weather in a row. Anyone have any suggestions for sealing around windows? I have the paint and tape to seal, but want to maintain the integrity of the appearance of the Dolphin.

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Seems like they have good tread on them. Anyone know of a good place to keep the spare tire? The previous owner just had it in the bathroom.

@fred health - yeah, I do a bit of backpacking. have more than a touch of wanderlust.

The tread may look good, but check the age of the tires. There should be a code on the tire. Stop by any tire place and they can look at it and tell you. In theory, after seven years, the tires become suspect because of degradation of the rubber. Discount Tire won't repair a tire that is older than ten years. I bought my Dolphin in Michigan two years ago and drove it 1800 miles home to Santa Fe on tires that turned out to be 17 years old (the fronts) 20 years old (the rears.) They performed fine. My Dolphin lived inside it's entire life, and still does. So that's probably why the tires lasted so long. But once I found out about the age thing I replaced all six tires, just to be safe. If yours has been outside full time, with no tire covers on the tires, the rubber could be weakening after 7-10 years.

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I just purchased my very first motorhome, a 1983 Dolphin with the 22R truck.

The gas gauge doesn't work

So, anyway, if anyone has experience with this year and model and wouldn't mind holding my hand a bit through this initial phase, that would be fantastic.

I've repaired the fuel gauge in six Toyota trucks during the past year or so. 1970s-1980s. All of them that I worked on had the same problem. Worn-out wires inside the tank.

The fuel-gauge in the dash works by getting a "signal" sent to it by a sending-unit inside the fuel tank. All it is - is a float attached to a piece of metal - that rubs back and forth on some very small diameter steel wire. Eventually it rubs through the wire, it breaks it, and the fuel gauge stops working.

Easy to diagnose. All someone has to do is reach in to the wire-harness connector by the fuel tank and unhook it. Then short out the wires going to the dash at the connector. If the gauge moves back and forth between "full" and "empty" - you know all is fine except that sending unit.

Ways to fix?

#1 get a new sending unit made for your Toyota. Easiest route although those senders sometimes cost over $80.

#2 use a sending unit from a 90s Suzuki or Chevy-Geo-Tracker. Much cheaper for a new one and matches the Toyota needs. Also has the same bolt pattern and easily attaches to the tank. Requires lengthening the float arm though.

#3 fix the old sending unit. Takes $1 worth of wire to rewind it and fix. Also takes some patience and expertise. if you don't want to try yourself there are many restoration shops that specialize in repairing fuel-tank sending units.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got the rig to the mechanic after sealing around most of the windows and the roof and learning to drive stick. Here is the news I got today ($670 to do a full inspection inside and out and change the fluids and belts):

Bad news:

  • The refrigerator doesn't work - the ammonia has leaked on the inside - and will need replacing (the part to fix it costs as much as getting a brand new one)--anyone know where I can get an original fridge in working order? I'd like to keep it as authentic as possible.
  • The front brakes will need new pads ($370 with parts and labor)
  • The odometer and gas gauge don't work (I knew about these), and the temperature gauge doesn't work--waiting for quote on these
  • Water drain needs new valve (cheap)
  • Sway arm bushings need replacing (cannot locate part, but can throw something together)

Good news:

  • Rear brakes are good
  • Rest of bushings are good
  • Water heater works
  • Furnace works, but needs fan oiled
  • Water pump appears to be working (need to check after replacing valve)
Edited by peregrination
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Shipping for a fridge will be a killer. Where are you located again ? If you've already told us, I forget. :)

Not being an electrical wizard and without looking at the wiring diagram, you might find that all 2 gauges are non-op because of a common bad ground. Odometer wouldn't be related, AFAIK.

EDIT. Just checked your Profile. Coos County, Oregon.

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Odometer is an easy, though complicated fix. :)

Easy in the sense that most likely the tumbler in there is just sticky, and needs to be cleaned and lubed. And if you're handy, it's really pretty simple.

You need to pull the instrument cluster and clean the numbers and get them unstuck. Really not a big deal, unless you're just really not skilled at doing that sort of thing, in which case it could be kind of a nightmare. Just depends...

Check this out.

Too bad on the other stuff.

Belts, oils, brakes...all that is basic mechanics stuff that isn't very hard to do. Too bad you didn't have someone to do that stuff for you other than the garage.

Fridge is annoying. I replaced mine. Very expensive, I agree.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the RV back from the mechanic (it's currently on its way to Southern California thanks to my dad). I had taken it to RV/truck specialists, so it was a bit more expensive than normal for a lot of the stuff, like the fluid replacement. Here is what $1,473.92 got me (repairs in bold):

Truck Inspection:

  • Full inspection front and back, inside and out (tho they missed the tires, which only had 15 lbs in them, instead of the 60 they were supposed to have...)
  • Lube, oil, and filter service
  • Replaced air filter
  • Tested house battery, load test was good
  • Removed front wheels to inspect brakes and front end, need work
  • Removed rear wheels to inspect brakes, fine
  • Drain and replace oil in rear end
  • Pressure test radiator, drain and replace coolant
  • Remove and replace thermostat
  • Diagnose heat gauge issue, locate and repair dirty connection
  • Odometer head needs to be replaced
  • Remove and replace front brake pads and rotors
  • Repack wheel bearings and reassemble
  • Remove and replace sway arm bushings

Parts:

  • Oil filter
  • Air filter
  • Fuel filter
  • Thermostat
  • Outlet seal
  • Brake pads (front)
  • Brake rotors
  • Sway bar link repair
  • Oil (5w-30), antifreeze, 80/90 gear oil

House Inspection (I have yet to speak with the guy who did this; he was out sick when I picked it up):

  • Inspect water system - water leaking from fresh water from broken tee fitting behind passenger seat into floorboard; fittings buried and stapled in carpet
  • Water leaking from fitting inside the electrical access only compartment; upper tee i lines just inside the power converter location
  • Water pump runs but draws in air instead of water
  • Inspect gauges and fount temp gauge needs new sending unit
  • Fuel gauge seems to be working correctly (not sure what this is referring to--any insight would be helpful, tho I will try and clarify it with him tomorrow, if he is in)
  • Inspect appliances
  • No 12v power to house
  • Repair fuse holders and fuses
  • Reconnect charge wire and house supply wires to house battery to test 12v appliances
  • Range top works properly but oven does not light beyond pilot, very low thermal control-unit is plugged inside or broken, cheaper to replace range than local parts for original unit
  • Furnace runs but fan motor squeals loudly-need to lubricate armature shaft
  • Flame does not burn very big when running and heat output is low-lubrication could help these issues
  • Refrigerator has rusted/broken cooling unit and lost its ammonia charge-unsafe to attempt to light burner but wouldn't work anyway even if it was lit; cheaper to replace
  • Water heater burner and thermal control seem to work correctly-water system is empty
  • Drain valve for freshwater tank is broken
  • Pump runs after repairing battery wires but no pressure
  • Tank gauge is showing over a quarter but may be incorrect after a long period of non use

My dad has updated me on the trip to report that it gets about 14-16 mpg while fully loaded with all of my stuff (a few hundred pounds worth; some of which will go into storage, so I wont be hauling it around on the regular. The fuel gauge seems to be working intermittently, and the wipers, while not working before, seem to be working now (at least intermittently).

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Yeah that's a big list. But totally normal for a camper/vehicle this old. Even if you pay to have all this fixed, if you're going to full time out of your camper, you'll start learning how all this stuff works. Especially if you run into other full timers. Things will go wrong on the road. That much is guaranteed.

I lived in mine March-October last year, but my systems are all a lot less complicated than yours. I gutted and rebuilt mine, so I knew everything pretty well, and had replaced or tested every system in it before I left on my trip.

It's going back on the road in late March, but I probably won't live in it quite like I did last year. Hoping for a seasonal job with housing this summer. We'll see.

Good luck with everything and let us know if you have questions! Once it's up to the condition you're comfortable with, as far as living out of it, post questions here if something needs to be fixed. If you're willing to have a try at it, we can probably walk you through most repairs, and save you a TON of money.

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  • 9 months later...

Alright. the RV project has been on hold. Get everything fixed early this year, and it's been waiting on me to resume work since about August. Now that all of the mechanical and appliance issues (all repaired, new, or calibrated) are worked out, I am starting to think about aesthetics. My lovely father repainted the hood, so her frontside is all pretty now.

The upholstery in the cab is pretty shot, especially on the seats and passenger-side door. Anyone know how much it would cost to get that fixed or if there are any outside-the-box ideas for it? I am also thinking about tearing out the mismatched blue burbur carpet on the floor and putting in laminate wood flooring. There is also a green shag carpet on the floor in the cab and around the seats, I may leave it, since it appears to be in pretty good condition.

The wallpaper seems to be original and is ok, so that may stay too, but the veneer cabinets are pretty rough. I think I may paint them, but do I need to disassemble all of the cabinetry and pull it out, or will taping and taking the doors off be enough? Anyone have any links to other people's experience with this? Also, if I paint the cabinets, I feel like I should do something about the wallpaper...so just starting to brainstorm how to gussy it up.

I also want to try and plan how best to make everything go with the brown plaid upholstery, since the house fabric is all in great shape. But, I still want to modernize/clean it up a bit.

I previously bought fabric for the window dressing, but I am thinking it might be too busy/flowery, so I am thinking a plain grey maybe with grey wood laminate flooring to contrast and highlight all of the original brown. But I fear it may look too different, like Frankenstein's interior design monster.

Whatever the case, I know I want to do the floor, and any other relatively easy projects that will allow me to get the most bang for my aesthetic buck.

My plan, right now, is to work on it until the spring and then take it up near Portland, where I have a family friend with hookups on their several acres, so I am definitely going to seal the roof again before I head up there. I am also starting to think about solar for the long term, so any info on that would be greatly appreciated.

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Edited by peregrination
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