Derek up North Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 This isn't on a Toyota, but I suppose the same mysterious problem might happen to one. Took the car in for a safety inspection. Neither reversing light works. OK, first step is to check the bulbs. Multimeter shows them good plus I've tried several others plus bought a couple of new ones. Next, I check the voltage in the socket with the ignition 'on' and the shifter (5sp) in reverse, engine not running. 12 volts!! Plug the bulbs in and nothing!! The ground seems to be good, I checked between the reversing light ground and the tail light ground. Meter goes to 0 Ohms. OK, I've got 12v and good bulbs. What am I missing? The only thing I can think of at the moment is a damaged wire that is good enough to pass 12v but not enough amps to light the bulb? If I had one, I'd try swapping in an LED 'bulb' to see if that works. At least it looks like I won't have to change the reversing light switch which is (conveniently) buried under the air box, cruise control and transmission mount. P.S. I hate electrics!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanman Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Had a problem like this is and it was the socket. Meter reads ok but bulb contacts not making good connection. Bulbs are incandescent not LED ?? polarity important to LED, bulbs don't care.Vanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 Not LED yet. Contacts are super clean with no corrosion. Maybe make a run to the junkyard to grab a couple more. They couldn't ALL be bad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 OK, I've got 12v and good bulbs. What am I missing? The only thing I can think of at the moment is a damaged wire that is good enough to pass 12v but not enough amps to light the bulb? If I had one, I'd try swapping in an LED 'bulb' to see if that works. You have not verified you've got 12 volts under any sort of load. You'd have to have a load equal to or over what the bulb draws hooked into the circuit and then check voltage to verify. A nominal 12 volt reading means nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 Well, I don't think I have any equipment to do that. Nothing be a multimeter. But I thought maybe an LED would get enough 'juice' to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Use a test light it will load the circuit. A DVM can be deceiving with 12 volt wiring your 12 volts may not be or your ground may not be a DVM has all most zero resistance. Use the test light touch the base of the bulb if the ground is poor the test light will light dimly and so will the bulb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 Thanks. Off to rummage around for an old bulb and some wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 Not exactly a complicated circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 Well, I went and spent too much to buy one of these: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Innova-Transparent-handle-test-light-circuit-tester/_/N-2714?itemIdentifier=186543_0_0_ Ignition on, shifter in reverse, I got nothing on the LH socket even though my multimeter still shows 12v. Seemed simple. But then I tried the RH socket and the test light lit up! Put a bulb in and nothing!! So I'm thoroughly confused!! My fuse is good. So it looks like I'm going to have to dig down to the backup switch on the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 You got a ground issue some where. Touch the socket (bulb in) with the test light grounded if it lights the ground is faulty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtle Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 I welded some trailer lights on the bumper and put in some bright white lites (rear and side facing). Then in the freed up backup position in the 3 light bargman I put the turn sig, took the inside and outside and made them into dual stop/running lights. Put LED Bargmans in and wow it is bright back there now Now I have backup lights almost as bright as headlights that illuminate side and rear and LOTS of red and yellow on the back http://www.toymike.com/sunrader/pics/backup_lights/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vermonter Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I welded some trailer lights on the bumper and put in some bright white lites (rear and side facing). Then in the freed up backup position in the 3 light bargman I put the turn sig, took the inside and outside and made them into dual stop/running lights. Put LED Bargmans in and wow it is bright back there now Now I have backup lights almost as bright as headlights that illuminate side and rear and LOTS of red and yellow on the back http://www.toymike.com/sunrader/pics/backup_lights/ That is BEAUTIFUL. VERY nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I also like your handy-work, bet it is bright back there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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