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I've had a difficult time diagnosing my problem. Declining gas mileage and a serious and spontaneous death wobble or death shimmy. Three different shops checked the steering and suspension joints with a clean bill of health. I replaced a slightly leaking steering stabilizer which seemed to alleviate the shimmy problem - for awhile. Then it started again with a vengeance.

Then one day I noticed that the brakes seemed to be dragging a bit. Back to the shop to replace the soft brake hoses. The hoses on aging vehicles may look perfectly good on the outside but can deteriorate on the inside. When the brakes are applied, fluid is pushed through to the calipers. When the pedal is released, the fluid (normally) returns to the master cylinder. If the hose is starting to deteriorate on the inside, the fluid may not be able to return to the MC. As a consequence, the brakes may drag, sometimes imperceptibly causing decreased gas mileage. In addition, the constant friction on the rotor will generate excessive heat causing the rotor to warp. Once the rotor has started to warp, it will cause the brakes to pulse imperceptibly. An oscillating effect sets up that only intensifies until the MH seems like it is trying to shake itself apart.

Solution: Turn the rotors, replace the brake pads and most importantly, replace those old brake hoses! Any vehicle that is 25 or 30 years old should have new, quality brake hoses whether there is a problem or not. You can neglect most any other maintenance, but your life depends on perfectly functioning brakes!

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You're absolutely right! I don't have those symptoms but why chance on a brake failure? Brake hoses are on my to do list before our first trip with our newly acquired '89 dolphin. I'm in the process of replacing the tail housing bushing, u-joints, drive shaft center support and air bags (rear springs). I was planning on replacing the brake fluid anyway. Just a little more time for more safety.

Thanks for the reminder,

Jim

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I like good brakes as much as anyone else. That being said - I find turning brake rotors often to be a waste of time and money. If a rotor has warped once, it's likely to warp again after it gets hot. Besides that - the more they get cut, the thinner/weaker they get and the faster they heat up. Brand new 5 lug rotors for Toyota RVs cost $10 each and new 6 lug rotors are $16 each. If I had a warped rotor, I'd replace with a new, full-thickness rotor.

As far as brake hoses go? Yes, good idea to make sure they are in good shape. That being said, I've had more steel lines blow then rubber hoses. Not what I consider a huge danger since all these rigs have dual braking systems so there's some redundancy and reserve when a line or hose blows.

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Hi
had ford capri several years ago fitted with dual circuit brakes. took car to several garages moaning brakes weren't right. all took it for test drive and on a rolling road for brake testing passed all tests with flying colours. anyway after a month while going down a 1 in 15 hill brake pedal went to the floor no resistance at all. Used the gearbox to slow down and very careful use of handbrake. got a garage to collect car and diagnosis was a split master cylinder so when brake pedal was pressed all brake fluid was force out so no dual circuit brakes. had a very lucky escape. went back to all the garages and told them what the problem was. All had never heard of a master cylinder failing. I have yet to hear of this happening to another vehicle.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I like good brakes as much as anyone else. That being said - I find turning brake rotors often to be a waste of time and money. If a rotor has warped once, it's likely to warp again after it gets hot. Besides that - the more they get cut, the thinner/weaker they get and the faster they heat up. Brand new 5 lug rotors for Toyota RVs cost $10 each and new 6 lug rotors are $16 each. If I had a warped rotor, I'd replace with a new, full-thickness rotor.

As far as brake hoses go? Yes, good idea to make sure they are in good shape. That being said, I've had more steel lines blow then rubber hoses. Not what I consider a huge danger since all these rigs have dual braking systems so there's some redundancy and reserve when a line or hose blows.

Jdemais, where can we get the brake rotors and what brand should we get pls?

I am going to suction out the brake fluid once we have a dry day.

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I have for sure heard of a master cylinder failing and I have had it happen to me. I had a Datsun and two Toyotas over the years the 77 Toyota Corona wagon SALOON to you friends over there. the brakes worked great if you stomped on them. but if you held the brake down slightly like to a light it would go all the way to the floor and you had no brakes at all. on my 88 Toyota 4WD XTRA cab the master was leaking fluid down the front of the vac booster. on the Datsun same as the wagon no brakes. These all 3 had dual circuit brakes.

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For the brake rotors, try Rock Auto and go with a brand name.

Make sure the brake parts state for 1-Ton and Dual Rear Wheels (ie. 1990 or newer example)

Looks like AC Delco rotors go for $29.

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Good advice on replacing the rotors! I wish I had known that they were so cheap when I had mine turned.

P.S. To my original post: I also discovered that my original MC was malfunctioning and replaced it also. After a 300 mile trip everything seems fine. No more shimmy problem and mileage increased about 2-3 MPG! Now looking forward to some major travel!

Thanks to everyone for your input.

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I put stainless braided Kevlar brake hoses on my 1991 shorty Sunrader.

Cheap insurance....

I can't recall where I had them fabricated and I am on the road now so no access to records

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  • 5 months later...

Update:

I have a next door neighbor who bought a Toyota Winnebago based on my recommendation for Toyota MH. In driving his MH back, he discovered all the same problems that I had and used the same solutions.

I'm amazed that this same problem occurred so close to home. Apparently it's more common than one would imagine. If you're experiencing the same problems of poor mileage, shimmy, brakes dragging, lack of power, etc., take a look at this solution.

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All different ways for things to go wrong. Was reading the Subaru forms yesterday and a popular mod is to add a reinforcing bracket to the master cyclinder. The firewall is flexable and with the reinforcement the brake pedal feel is much improved.

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Thanks for posting this. I have been looking at brake lines and wondering if I should replace? Mine look like OE.

Need a kit # now. Every PM part you could possibly need to replace on a 93 V6 auto kit. Something under $10,000 would be nice. :clown2: JIm SW FL

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Thanks for posting this. I have been looking at brake lines and wondering if I should replace? Mine look like OE.

Need a kit # now. Every PM part you could possibly need to replace on a 93 V6 auto kit. Something under $10,000 would be nice. :clown2: JIm SW FL

Jim,

I would suggest you replace them. Even if your hoses look good, you cannot tell about the inside condition.

I like Rock Auto for parts. Good service, good prices and quality parts. Raybestos has a very good reputation for quality brake items. Try to avoid "Made in China" quality.

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