Keeping Refer Cold

[MontanaChinook]

Yes that kind of refer! No, I mean the other kind of refer.

I had a scare early this week with my fridge. It's brand new, so I've been going with the "if it's level enough that I'm comfortable inside, it's level enough for the fridge" philosophy.

And it's been working. I've been using it for 4 months. Yeah, when it get's 90 degrees inside it doesn't cool so well, but well enough to keep food from spoiling (I think).

But I left it on the street at a friends house and went backpacking for the weekend, and when I came back, the pilot was still lit, but it was not cold. And I don't mean not cold enough, I mean it felt like it wasn't even on. Completely warm, food moldy.

I've since let it run and it seems to get to a proper temp (though I guess I need to throw a thermometer in there to be sure).

I haven't tried it on anything except gas, but it seemed like the flue was getting hot, but the coils weren't.

I don't know if just the basic, slightly off-level parking and camping I've been doing has already partially clogged it, or what...but not happy to be paying to replace the unit so soon.

So I guess the point of the thread is, if I didn't mess it up, and maybe I was just parked right in the hot afternoon sun and it just couldn't keep up: what are the good ways to keep it cool?

Things I can think of are: keep the fridge side of the camper parked in the shade. Keep the door closed as much as possible. I put insulation on the outside when I installed it. Keep fairly level.

I remember maybe Mainah had installed some computer fans? Did you install them to blow the hot air away from the coils, out the vent, or pointed towards the coils so there's air moving across them?

Any other ideas, short of hopefully not replacing my cooling unit?

[Derek up North]

How long is the warranty on your brand new fridge?

[darrel]

I'm not happy with my now 1 year old frig. Bought and had it installed at a local RV dealer. The frig is a Dometic with a 2 year warranty. I installed two computer fans which are mounted above the coils which blow air out the top exhaust. The fans cool the exhaust vent down about 15 degrees when outside temp is around 90 degrees. Does it help with inside refer temp ????. We just got back from the coast with temps around 60-70 degrees, did not use the fans. My 84 Dolphin had the original refer which still worked perfectly. It kept the inside temp a lot cooler and consistent temp. I'm thinking that with the Dolphin refer mount, it had a side hot air exhaust just above the refer mite be the reason it worked better. My 94 Warrior has the roof hot air vent. Does anyone have an opinion on this theory?

[linda s]

Your brand new fridge doesn't need to be perfectly level. Just comfortable inside is enough. Always the chance you got a defective one and the problem just showed up. Get a thermometer in there so when you call Dometic or Norcold you will have something accurate to tell them. Have your receipt and model number.

Linda S

[DanAatTheCape]

were there any storms while you were gone? I am wondering if your flame was blown out - I have had that happen in high winds.

I try to get very level - I put stick on levels on the fridge cabinet & in the cockpit, err drivers seat area. I try to get with in 1/2 of a mark. probably overkill but I like to make sure.

The other obvious question is propane level - assuming you did not get low & nobody decide that your propane tank valve should be turned off.

I have noticed during really hot days the fridge does not pull down as well - but it still works.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-90-Degree-Hose-Elbow-with-Gripper/16783111 (also available at rv stores for a few dollars more - some walmart stores carry them too)

[MontanaChinook]

Ok, thanks. The flame was still lit.

[Maineah]

Yeah level is comfortable some are less fussy than me but if it seems level and things don't roll around that's probably fine. The fans need to be pointed at the condenser coil the ones that have fins it will only cool to XX below ambient temp so if it’s 90+* out it real helps to remove the heat from the condenser. The flame is all there is there is no pilot flame it is modulated by the thermostat. All it takes is a short few minutes for the fridge to warm up it's not like a Freon fridge that some people like to open the door to cool them self’s off or search for last night’s desert it does take a long time to recover.

[MontanaChinook]

Yeah I'm using "pilot" to mean "the flame".

I'm parking in too many off-level areas lately (out front of friend's houses, and those gutters just don't let me get level), so I'm not using the fridge. Plus I need to pull my propane tank to get it checked out anyways.

When I'm someplace that I can park on a level surface for a few days and get the tank back in, I'll try out the fridge with a thermometer in there and see how well it's cooling.

It sat for three days when this happened. But when I checked it, the flame was still lit, the fridge wasn't even slightly cool, and it was first thing in the morning...so it had all night to cool down.

But like I mentioned, I've tried it since then and it did cool down.

[Debbit]

It has been so hot here this summer, I didn't think my fridge was working. Toy was plugged in and level and it took about 3 days to finally start to cool down. I called a rv store, because it was cooling, just not very well. Service guy said it was behaving perfectly normal for a rv fridge in 100+ temperatures. He said we shouldn't expect better than 40 degrees below outside temps. It might help to take bottom vent door off and shade the fridge side. I kept a thermometer in there and it didn't go below 55 during the day.

Once we got up to the mountains to camp, I had to turn it down, it was around 37 by the morning.

What we do is freeze everything possible. Containers of lemonade, all meats, and several bottles of water. Maybe freeze one or two rinsed out milk cartons with water. Running the fridge a few days first cools it off, but not much. Before leaving, we pack in all the cold and frozen food and turn the fridge on gas. I haven't had very good luck keeping the gas lit while underway, but it's been windy every trip and I've lost two refrigerator vent doors, so maybe the wind is doing it.

It lights easily and we try to keep the fridge side in the shade.

[WME]

I had an old rv that behaved the way Zach described. Off level and the refer became an ice box and would slowly warm up as the cool went away. Leveling the RV would let the refer cool again.

I start my refer and put a frozen water jug in the top and bottom. It helps speed things up a bunch. Also keeping the refer full of stuff lets it work better.

[Derek up North]

Some also put a small fan inside the fridge to circulate the cold air. Available at RV stores.

[MontanaChinook]

Ok thanks. That kind of makes me feel better. I'll try a little harder to keep it level, and see how it does. I guess I just can't expect to really stock it like a normal fridge during the summer months.

[Gary_M]

Also keeping the refer full of stuff lets it work better.

My Dometic is 4 years old and keeps food cold. Like WME states if the fridge is full is works better. When mine is loaded with food it tends to get too cold and food starts freezing.

Mine is set to level 4 all the time both gas and electric. Not complaining, better too cold than not.

[WME]

Actually the more stuff you have in it the more stable the temp.. Keeping the door closed as much as possible helps a bunch as does a good door gasket.

The deal is with an empty, or almost empty, refer when you open the door ALL the cold runs out. If you have lots of cold stuff in it, there is only a little air to escape. So when you open and close the door the cold mass inside helps the refer maintain temp. Also the unit will cool down more at night so you can carry the cold over to the next day.

On really hot days I wrap a couple pounds of dry ice in several layers of paper and stick it on the top shelf. It will last a few days and will help keep your food safe.

[sdboltdude]

my 87 mini cruiser has to be real level to work the best comfort level works at 45* if I get perfect it will almost freeze everything

I do want to do the fan mod near coils with a couple pc fans...

[MontanaChinook]

Dry ice is a good idea. Sometimes hard finding a place that sells it, though.

I've got the propane tank back in, so once it cools down a little and I know I'm going to be parked somewhere level for a couple days, I'll try out the fridge again. For now, I've just got the cooler down off the roof, taking up my valuable floor space...

[MontanaChinook]

I was just hoping a brand new fridge wouldn't be so particular...

[WME]

Go to Lowes or somewhere similar and get a bulls eye level. Place it on the bottom of the freezer. Use blocks, jacks, what ever to level the rv and refer. Find some place that you can see from the drivers seat and mount the level so that its level. Now when you park its easy to make sure the refer is level.

Not saying your rig is off, but I have seen RV's that the floor and refer weren't level with each other. Thats why you level the refer and not the RV.

[Odyssey 4x4]

I assume my refrigerator is the stock one in my Toyota (Sibir). I've been on the road a little over 3 months and when I was in the mountains and cooler temps it got very cold, it would freeze eggs at night. Now I am in New Mexico and the temp has hit 100+ a few times and the refrigerator had no chance at that, it was pretty much warm. Warm enough I threw out my bacon and other goods. Something I do that helps is freeze a water bottle or two at night in the freezer (which is usually cold enough) and then in the day time half way through the day I put the frozen bottles in the bottom of refrigerator to keep stuff cool. It has helped me so far.

If it is getting so warm you are afraid of losing food, stop at a gas station and buy a cold gallon of water and put it in, that helps a little too.

I drive with my pilot light on, I literally haven't turned it off except to refill propane in months. It has never gone out on me but it has a little metal window that slides over which looks to block out all moving air from outside.

[linda s]

If your parked and the temps are super high I have saved my food by hanging a wet sheet over the fridge vents on the outside. Shade and cooling from evaporation worked pretty well to get the temps to food safe.

[WME]

Unfortunately the answer to the high outside temps, is out of production. Snyders RV Refrigeration had a very good fan setup.

Keep checking the web site to see if he starts making them again. http://www.snydersrvrefrigeration.com/page2.php

[zero]

Unfortunately the answer to the high outside temps, is out of production. Snyders RV Refrigeration had a very good fan setup.

Keep checking the web site to see if he starts making them again. http://www.snydersrvrefrigeration.com/page2.php

Lots of places sell $20 fan kits to fit Dometic 3-ways. Also - Dometic gives info in some of the manuals on how to add a fan if someone is unsure about it.

Whether it makes a big difference in very hot weather - i do not know. My answer is to just use a 12 volt RV refrigerator with a compressor. No issues, Makes ice and keeps food very cold no matter how hot it is. A 2 cubic foot 12 volt refrigerator can run for two days on a single type 27 RV battery before it needs recharging. I never park that long anyway. Start the engine and the batteries are fully charged back up in a few hours driving. No worrying about being level or needing outside vents either.

Dometec says when their 3-way is working correctly with the right ventilation and perfectly level - will keep food at 43 degrees F when air temps are 110F. I've never had a 3-way work that well even when it's just 90 F out but I rarely get to park anywhere that is level. That's what makes a compressor refrigerator so handy.

[Bob C]

I love my 12 volt compressor frig but I am like JD, I rarely park for more than one day. I love the fact that I don't have to worry about being level. I got lucky and picked my frig up from a guy that took it out of a large sailboat.

[Maineah]

I have more problems keeping mine from freezing things than being too hot granted I seldom see weather much above 85 when I camp. If I'm not going to be comfortable I don't go camping. The modern DC fridges are getting far better and I'm sure one day they will replace the old gas ones but until then I'm fine with a little flame keeping things cold enough.with out worrying about having a dead battery.

[zero]

The modern DC fridges are getting far better

The big Sundanzer chest refrigerators at 5.8 cubic feet will run on 1/4 amp per hour @ 12 volts. That is AMAZINGLY efficient. A single RV battery can run one for a week with no recharge. A little big and bulky for an RV though. I've had one for 6 years in my cabin.

[starbrightsteve]

I just took the top off the cabinet that encloses my refrigerator. The previous owner of this Sunrader told me that the fridge had been replaced once upon a time. When I looked down onto the top of the fridge, I saw a full 1.5 inches on both sides of the fridge and room for 2" on top of the fridge. I plan to slide foil faced foam board (polyisocyanurate) down the sides and add 2" of the same on the top. There may be room for insulation under the fridge but I have not gotten to that area yet. I will.
I think its important to get air flow over the coils/fins but insulation works without any electro-mechanical help.

[zero]

I just took the top off the cabinet that encloses my refrigerator. The previous owner of this Sunrader told me that the fridge had been replaced once upon a time. When I looked down onto the top of the fridge, I saw a full 1.5 inches on both sides of the fridge and room for 2" on top of the fridge. I plan to slide foil faced foam board (polyisocyanurate) down the sides and add 2" of the same on the top. There may be room for insulation under the fridge but I have not gotten to that area yet. I will.

I think its important to get air flow over the coils/fins but insulation works without any electro-mechanical help.

I added 4" of poly-iso to my electric compressor refrigerators and it cut down power use by half. Can't fully insulate a 3-way though because of the vented coils in back. Norcold 12 volt refrigerator left the factory with only 1" of foam insulation.

[MontanaChinook]

I put 1" foil-backed foam board insulation on 3 sides of my fridge when I installed it. Top and sides. Should have done the bottom, of course...

I'm sure it helps, but only if the cooling unit is putting cool in there to begin with.

[zero]

As others have said - having it full helps a lot also. We cut ice out of the pond in mid-winter, stack the ice in one big pile covered with a layer of sawdust - and it keeps until mid-summer. If a little sawdust can do that, some polyiso can do a lot more.

[Derek up North]

R-2.22 vs R-5.6 to R-8 per inch.

http://www.daycreek.com/dc/html/journal011401.htm

http://energy.gov/energysaver/articles/insulation-materials

[zero]

My 5.8 cubic foot 12 volt refrigerator is one of the most efficient refrigerators on the planet. I find it to be absolutely amazing. I had propane before I changed to solar-electric cooling. Has 4.3" of polyurethane insulation. Uses 6.5 amp-hours a day @ 70 degrees F while keeping food at 38 degrees F. that means a typical type 27 RV "house" battery can run it for a full week before getting to the point it needs recharging. I've run mine all summer long with one battery and one 120 watt solar panel hooked to it and that's in a poor sun area of the NY Adirondacks. Even survived getting shot by a local woodchuck hunter. .22 bullet didn't even penetrate the side - just left a good dent. I paid $725 for it around 6 years ago. Over $1000 new now unless on-sale somewhere.

[MontanaChinook]

I talked with someone at Dometic and they said that even at 90 degrees, the fridge should still stay pretty cold. I'm bringing it in to an RV place for diagnosis this week, then we'll see if I can get some warranty work done.

[MontanaChinook]

A slight delay...RV places are a month out for scheduling service. It's summer...

So for now I'm back to using a cooler. Which is too bad because it takes up all the floor space in my camper.

[zero]

IF working correctly - it's supposed to get 40 degrees cooler inside the refrigerator that the air temps outside. I.e. if it's 80 F outside, the frig should get to 40 F. If it's 90F it might only get down to 50 F.

[MontanaChinook]

Yeah we went over that. Thanks though.