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I check out this forum a good bit for advice on our camper, this is my first post.
We have a 1986 Toyota Shasta. Just bought it about 3 months ago with just over 58,000 miles on it. We took it on a few 2 hour trips that were to western Maryland and western Pennsylvania. It threw a belt to the coolant pump and overheated on one trip. We were able to get a belt and replace it in a parking lot.
Since then, I replaced all the belts and it has been driving fine.
I am now in Boothbay Harbor Maine. It was about a 600 mile trip up to here. The camper drove fine.
However, I noticed a small leak on the transmission pan around the seal. It was not enough of a leak to drip on the ground, but still a leak. I first checked all the bolts and the bolts around the leak were a bit loose. I tightened them down and took it for a drive. It is not really leaking anymore, but after the drive, I wiped around the seal with a paper towel and had a tiny bit of fluid.
I am guessing the gasket needs replaced.
Does anybody know how many hours I should expect a mechanic to be able to do this job?
I can't think it is a hard job, I have the Haynes Manual for this truck and it doesn't look that hard, just a bit too much to do at a campground.
Any advice would be great.
- Aaron

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1/2 hour job if on a lift; Maybe more if it has to be done outside with jacks and jack-stands. Might as well put a new filter in there once the pan is off. A new filter usually comes with a new gasket.

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If you haven't replaced this gasket yet, ask your installer to source a "Duraprene" pan gasket...These are constructed of a BROWN hard cardboard looking material......(.technical composition omitted for this suggestion).....These are IMO.. the best gaskets to use....The cork/rubber material will need re-tightening after a bit............although there are several manufacture's of the cork / rubber. It is hard to see the quality of this material with an untrained eye.........Install the Duraprene dry, I.e. no glue or RTV sealant needed....Be sure to flatten the bolt holes as they may be pulled in from overtightening.

This gasket is probably N/A from your local parts store.......Ask any GOOD trans shop, they should be able to hand you one

The Duraprene gasket can be tightened down to max & never need to be re-tightened......................Donnie

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Be careful not to over tighten. The torque values are 48 in lbs (5.4 ft lbs). In fact, here is a torque list I compiled on evernote for my 1987 chassis:

Mains 76 Stock Rod Bolts 46 ARP Rod Bolts 50 Intake Manifold 33 Exhaust Manifold 33 Oil Pan Bolts 9 Cylinder Head Bolts 62 Cam Timing Gear 58 Cam Bearing Bolt 14 Crankshaft Pulley 116 Timing Cover 8mm Bolts 9 Timing Cover 10mm Bolts 29 Flywheel 80 Cylinder Head Studs 70

Intake Manifold Bolts: 14
Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolts: 14
Cylinder Head Bolts – Stock: 62
Exhaust Studs: 33
Camshaft Timing Gear Bolt: 58
LC Cylinder Head Studs : 70
transmission pan bolts: 48 in lbs (5.4 ft lbs)
wheels -- rears are supposed to be torqued to 170 ft lbs, and the fronts to 110 ft lbs
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wheels -- rears are supposed to be torqued to 170 ft lbs, and the fronts to 110 ft lbs

Do you remember where you got these values from? Particularly the front value of 110 ft-lb?

I've seen 2 values given for the rear FF axles. The '88 FSM lists 141 ft-lb, the 1993 FSM 170 ft-lb. I've never come across a torque value for 'matching' front wheels so had assumed the same as the rear. And I hate to assume! What value Toyota listed for the '86 6 hand hole rims is anyone's guess! :)

I'm not sure what year Toyota changed from 141 ft-lb to 170 ft-lb (though maybe with the change to the new body style in '89) or why. Presumably not changed for changes sake and whether Toyota would suggest that earlier trucks should be torqued to the new value is unknown (to me).

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My mechanic has replaced the gasket on the transmission pan in my 85 Dolphin three times now (on their dime after the first effort which I paid them for) and there is still a tiny bit of leakage. We've decided the gods must have never intended for my 30-year-old tranny to be totally leak free. To keep from having to see the evidence on the ground that comes down every few weeks in the form of a small droplet (we're talking a micro tiny leak here), I go under there and wipe the seal area with a paper towel now and again. Problem solved!

The Dolphin has taught me the true meaning of "good enough."

Joe

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One pain in the neck about changing the gasket in camp is dealing with the fluid. Collecting the gallon or so that you drain out, getting it into a pourable container, and getting it back into the transmission when you are done. Getting it back in requires a long necked transmission funnel, at least on my '87, anyway. It's a job I would rather do at home but is surely doable in camp.

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Thanks for the info and advice. I just got back from the mechanic and they got a new gasket and filter in there. It was just a rubber filter like the one that came out, but it is fixed. I sat and watched him do the whole job. I definitely could have done it myself, but it would have been a PITA at the campground. He charged me $130 for the job and the parts, I didn't think that was too bad. Here in coastal Maine, things move pretty slow, so I was grateful to have the job done on short notice. Now I can kick back and relax a bit until the drive home. Hopefully I won't have another post on this topic.

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Mine was leaking too before I built the motor, I went to loosen the bolts and snapped two off. It now has all new bolts, filter, and gasket, and has been leak proof for 4,000+ miles now.

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I'm back home in Pennsylvania and after the camper has been sitting for a week, I have a leak again. I'm thinking of putting one of those duraprene gaskets on, but I am worried that my pan may be warped. Anyone know the part number for the pan? I would hate to put another gasket on and have it still leaking.

Any thoughts?

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Easy to check remove the pan and place it on a flat surface and see how much it rocks

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When you remove the pan & after cleaning it lay it on a flat concrete floor with the pan rail (where the bolt holes are) against the floor.

Now using a blunt object, a punch with a FLAT end that is larger than the bolt holes, or a small ball pein hammer will suffice...strike it with another hammer to flatten the holes.

What you want to do is flatten the pan rail as near as you can. to be a straight surface.. The cork/rubber gasket is able to compress from over torque when the pan keeps getting tightened every time that a leak is corrected....A Duraprene gasket is less resilient & requires a flat surface on the pan.

It will not seal well if the bolt hole's are "dimpled in"

The above information is for a steel pan only...If you have an alloy pan it will be flat.

Don't be concerned if your pan is steel as it will conform to the case surface...........good luck, Donnie

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