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Ignition Kill Switch Suggestions?


TikiShack

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Since I am preparing for a trip out of the country, I want to install a kill switch. I may want to connect a toggle switch of some sort hidden and possibly a remote switch as well controlled wirelessly. I'm sure it would be best if using a relay to have the kill switch momentarily open rather than open by default.Has anyone out there done this? And where is a good place to interrupt the ignition supply wire?

Thanks in advance!

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Since I am preparing for a trip out of the country, I want to install a kill switch. I may want to connect a toggle switch of some sort hidden and possibly a remote switch as well controlled wirelessly. I'm sure it would be best if using a relay to have the kill switch momentarily open rather than open by default.Has anyone out there done this? And where is a good place to interrupt the ignition supply wire?

Thanks in advance!

Sounds like you want a remote-controlled latching-relay that runs on 12 volts. Very common. Latching-relays snap into position and then stay there - "on" or "off." I.e. then use no power once in position. Anything remote-control though is going to draw a little power all the time to be ready for use and receive a signal.

Where you want it I guess depends on why you want it. If for anti-theft - I guess you should stick it under the hood since it has a lock. In line with the IGN power circuit to the coil and ignitor. Or . . in line with the "crank/engage" wire going to the starter-motor.

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If this is intended as an anti-theft device, I'm not sure I understand the necessity. Is there a big market for stolen Toys? Seems like an odd item for someone to steal. Maybe I'm wrong about this. Does anyone have any information on the theft statistics for 30 year old fixer-upper motor homes? Could you be taking this "security" thing a little too seriously? Or maybe I'm not taking is seriously enough.

Joe

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Around here they steal anything and everything, stole my '74 Datsun B-210 rust bucket from in front of the house in. Looked like hell but it was mechanically sound. Then Mary's car a few years later, then my companies truck, Ford E-150, with all my great tools, that's what flea markets are for around here. Surprisingly this is one of the better neighborhoods in the city!!!
What I did was to put an alarm on the dome light, and a hidden start kill switch. Once running it cannot be stopped by any failure in this ckt, yes it's got it's own fuse. You do not want to put anything in that could cause an engine failure while driving. I believe here that's actually illegal, according to the guy who installed the security system in my Aerostar anyway.
I personally would not drive anything that didn't have a, for here, reasonable level of security YMMV :)

Remember that on old cars, like our Toys, all you need is a screwdriver to drive it away as fast as if you had a key. Insert tool in drivers lock hard twist breaks it, repeat with ignition sw and you're rolling. Newer cars much harder to get with chips in the key.
john

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We don't even take the keys out of our cars where I live. When on the road - yes. My 1964 Chevy doesn't even use a key to start.

If I wanted to steal an old Toyota - no hidden disconnect switch anywhere would stop me. Very easy to hot-wire the ignition and/or the fuel pump.

Now - if it had a steering-wheel lock - things get more complicated.

I guess the main thing is - you don't want to make it easy for somebody to take off with.

I find it hard to believe that a potential thief who is sane and sober - is going to risk a jail-sentence stealing something as slow - and easily identifiable as a Toyota RV.

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That could inspire a movie franchise: 'Gone in 60 minutes (or so)!'. :)

It would be kind of a funny car chase. Kind of like when the police were chasing OJ Simpson while he was driving his Ford Bronco around 30 MPH.

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Around here they will break into almost anything just to grab what they can. I hope the combo of the open and empty glovebox and the blinking red LED will save me the trouble and expense of repairing / replacing anything. But time will tell. Mine looks like new to someone who doesn't know what there Toys look like. Just sayin'.

john

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You didn't say what year and engine you have. My 1979 with 20R and electric fuel pump in the tank was very easy to setup for a kill switch to the relay.

I interrupted the relay ground wire with a simple toggle switch under the dash. I prefer using a ground wire whenever possible so as not to be running anything with voltage through it.

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You didn't say what year and engine you have. My 1979 with 20R and electric fuel pump in the tank was very easy to setup for a kill switch to the relay.

I interrupted the relay ground wire with a simple toggle switch under the dash. I prefer using a ground wire whenever possible so as not to be running anything with voltage through it.

I have a 1992 6 cylinder fuel injected model. I see no blue wire underneath the passenger seat only a few empty beer cans. The ignition circuit is largely a mystery to me, when I hooked up my tachometer I ended up taking it off the access block used for for diagnostics. There's about 50 wires around the coil and whatever the other shiny thing a majig is next to the coil. There's nothing simple about it. If any of you guys can help me that's great. I'd rather kill the ground wire on the fuel pump. I think that's an excellent solution because the strippers wouldn't get far.
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another item to add that is cheap to add is a battery terminal cut off switch. They cost about $5 and has

a large knob/screw that one can turn out a turn to cut power or to fully remove the knob/screw. I had something

doing a slow drain on my truck battery that I could not locate, so I installed one of these.

Dennis...

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