bvsajjan Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 When running house AC unit with AC power cord from another source, it overloaded and seemed to switch off like a breaker switch or fuse was blown or something but no fuse or breaker was blown. The interesting thing is that the battery system went completely off also....? How do I see if the inverter was affected somehow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 When running house AC unit with AC power cord from another source, it overloaded and seemed to switch off like a breaker switch or fuse was blown or something but no fuse or breaker was blown. The interesting thing is that the battery system went completely off also....? How do I see if the inverter was affected somehow? What does an inverter got to do with it? What inverter do you have? Or are you talking about a converter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Are you using an extension cord? Yes if there is no 120 volt power the converter will not work. If there is an extension in the power feed and you are running the A/C chances are pretty high it's no where near big enough to handle the load and the voltage dropped like a rock the longer it is the worse it gets. An inadequate extension usually will not trip a breaker it might catch fire and what ever it is attached to won't work properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvsajjan Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 Thanks guy for your input! Yes, thanks for the correction.. converter not inverter.... Anyway, it seems as thought the change-over mechanism kicked in after I drove some miles and everything is working again. (change over from 110 input to 12 volt) :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boots Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Hi You don't say what type of rig you have, however, in your manual it should list the electrical loads for your air conditioning unit. If the air condition is working normally, then the load should remain constant (it might be a higher draw when it initially starts) - so as other's has stated, there are only a small list of potentially trouble spots. One as mentioned is that if the AC (shore power) voltage drops down, the current load has to go up. A number of things happen when this occurs; first off if the current load is too high there is a safety - high amperage cut out relay (in some models) which will lock out the shore power. It may be an automatic reset, and when the relay is off for a while (it cools down) it will reset and the power is restored. The second thing that can occur is the wiring carrying the increased current load, may heat up; that is not a good thing and lastly what ever was causing the interruption has returned to normal conditions, all requirements are satisfied and everyone is happy One question, in your original statement you said your were on "shore power" and 16th May you said the change over mechanism kicked in after you drove some miles. So that is a different condition, what changed? Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 ... in your manual it should list the electrical loads for your air conditioning unit. An optimistic statement. Some manuals are so general that the cover Class A, B & C. Full of generalities that apply to all with no specifics! The manual for the specific A/C unit will be much more help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boots Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Hi Derek, Yes sometimes these things are difficult to find and then sometimes not, here is a similar AC unit for an RV with it's specs. Time to find under one minute on the good ol internet. "Coleman 15000 BTU roof top AC, draws 16 amps cooling and 16 amps with heating strip. Operates on 110 volt AC. The specs did not clarify whether the 16 amps was AC or DV tho. Off to look at other examples. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Very few Toyota based rigs will have a 15,000btu AC unit. Overkill. The amps for an AC unit will always be for 110 cause they don't run on DC. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Under a minute to find specs for the wrong A/C. I probably could have done the same. But Toyota's have A/Cs anywhere from 7100Btuh to 13500Btuh. Without knowing what's installed, I won't search for specs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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