Has Anyone Installed An Air Locker On Their Rear Differential?

[paulnptld]

I recall someone mentioning that a rear locker can make a huge difference in traction, though I've not heard of anyone installing one on a Toyhome. I'd really like to get some opinions as to whether or not it's worth it, and what sort of difference it really makes.

Thanks!

[Odyssey 4x4]

The only reason I see this every making a difference is if you're driving in harsh off road conditions where the open diff is not giving you the traction you need. I come from a 4x4 background and remember, anytime you make one part stronger, the next weakest part of the truck is going to take more abuse!

[WME]

Rule #1 A locker diff will just get you further into the woods before you get stuck.

Rule #2 4x4 will do the same.

Remember your driving a grossly overloaded pickup not a Jeep.

I have never had traction problems even on packed snow and ice

[MontanaChinook]

Two of the times I got stuck in my Chinook, a locking differential probably would have gotten me out. The third time, it wouldn't have helped.

It really depends on what you plan on doing with your truck.

What I've heard is that in a lot of situations, a locking rear is actually more useful than 4wd. But not all situations...

For people with stock 4x4s, slider bars (if you care about body damage) and locking differentials are actually better first modifications than lifts and bigger tires.

For 2x4 motorhomes...I just don't know. It's certainly cheaper and easier than a 4x4 conversion, and would definitely come in handy on some of the roads I drive on.

I'm guessing that at this point you understand what they do? I would think that if you know what they do, and think of the times you've gotten stuck, or almost gotten stuck, due to one rear wheel being stuck, spinning in ice, snow, or loose dirt, you'll be able to figure out how much good it would do you and whether or not it's worth it.

[Gulfstream Greg]

An air lock diff is just meant to be used under certain circumstance. They can actually cause an axle break under the wrong situation with stock axles. So if you decide to go with a locker consider also upgrading the axles.

You might consider a limited slip which will give you better rear traction at all times and might keep you from getting stuck. Also being a 4 wheeler myself one important tool is a high lift jack. But you need bumpers that can be jacked on with the high lift. Stock bumpers are too weak.

[paulnptld]

Last year I got stuck at the beach. I also take the Dolphin up skiing frequently, and have definitely had a few occasions (particularly in resort parking lots) where a locking rear would have been helpful.

I figured that if I could get into one for less than $1,500 it might just be worth it.

Also, I didn't realize that we had completely open differentials. Would a limited slip differential make more sense than the investment in a locking diff?

[turtle]

I have an air locker in my 74 land rover 88 and a limited slip in my 1988 toyota 4x4 (pickup not RV)

Neither of these is something I would recommend for an RV as you would snap an axel shaft if you ever engaged a locker on dry pavement (been there, done that and have the snapped axel shaft on the garage wall to prove it AND rover axel shafts make the Toyota ones look like toothpicks). My pickup will hop/slip around corners if I put a little foot into it, in an RV you would bend or break an axel shaft if this happened.

Not fun being broken down on the side of the road with a snapped axel shaft. Your diff and drive line is something you should NOT have to worry about. It should just be there and work.

If you want an improvement get some lower gears than the stock 4.10:1 gearing. I've always gone 4.56:1 in my Toy RVs with a standard HD open Toyota diff and been very pleased with the increase in performance this has given me.

[MontanaChinook]

Yeah obviously you would only put the differential in "lock" if you had a tire spinning and were therefore stuck, and you wouldn't just floor it, you'd give it gas nice and easy...

It would only be to get you unstuck, not for driving on paved roads, or even gravel roads. Simply a tool to help get unstuck, or when crawling very slowly on the beach or through a snowing parking lot.

[paulnptld]

Yeah obviously you would only put the differential in "lock" if you had a tire spinning and where therefore stuck, and you wouldn't just floor it, you'd give it gas nice and easy...

It would only be to get you unstuck, not for driving on paved roads, or even gravel roads. Simply a tool to help get unstuck, or when crawling very slowly on the beach or through a snowing parking lot.

Exactly what I was thinking, Zach. It would only be used because it has to be used. I will say that Turtle's comments do make me want to give this more careful consideration.

[paulnptld]

I have an air locker in my 74 land rover 88 and a limited slip in my 1988 toyota 4x4 (pickup not RV)

Neither of these is something I would recommend for an RV as you would snap an axel shaft if you ever engaged a locker on dry pavement (been there, done that and have the snapped axel shaft on the garage wall to prove it AND rover axel shafts make the Toyota ones look like toothpicks). My pickup will hop/slip around corners if I put a little foot into it, in an RV you would bend or break an axel shaft if this happened.

Not fun being broken down on the side of the road with a snapped axel shaft. Your diff and drive line is something you should NOT have to worry about. It should just be there and work.

If you want an improvement get some lower gears than the stock 4.10:1 gearing. I've always gone 4.56:1 in my Toy RVs with a standard HD open Toyota diff and been very pleased with the increase in performance this has given me.

Thanks for the feedback. What type of performance improvement have you seen from changing the gearing?

[MontanaChinook]

Yes I would never discount any advice turtle gives

Just seems like people were missing your point.

The way that the vast majority of people use these RVs leaves no need for lifts, 4x4 conversions, locking differentials or winches etc. But a few of us do take them into areas where those types of things would come in handy. Yes, they can definitely also give you the confidence to get yourself in even more trouble...but like every tool, it's up to the user to be responsible and use it right.

The first time I got stuck in my camper, lower gears would have got me out faster. But my biggest issue was clearance. A locking differential would have only helped if I had the engine power or gearing to power out of the rut I was stuck in. I was spinning one tire, but also hung up on the tray sticking out the back of the Chinook. But even stacking rocks under the spinning tire wouldn't quite do it...because I didn't have the power or gearing to get up & out!

So it's always a matter of knowing how you'll use your camper, what kind of "stuck" you'll most likely get, and what tools are out there to help with it, and hopefully make an informed decision. A winch would have been really nice for me...But I'd prefer to not get stuck in the first place.

[WME]

If you are going to insist on mudbogging your toy MH ;-0 invest in a hi-lift jack and have proper jack points on your MH. They can be a life saver if you hicenter.

[MontanaChinook]

I'm sure you're joking, but I didn't hear anything about mud bogging.

Not sure why people can't see the benefit of this. No one is talking about rock crawling, mudding, or extreme offroading. A 2wd pickup can get stuck very easily, especially if, like Paul, you use it often in the winter. What's the big deal about addressing this?

A guy on the Yahoo Chinook site has put a mild lift, 30 x 9.50 all terrain tires, and a rear locker on his pop-top Chinook. He spends a lot of time on southern California dirt roads on BLM and Forest Service land. Nothing crazy, simply getting to remote places in his truck. He now has a truck which can get him these places.

I personally am not trying to get my camper anywhere crazy. But a 2wd drive truck can get stuck so easily on something I've seen Honda Civics getting through no problem...Seriously. I have seen sedans at trailheads which I know the Chinook could not get to, in its current state.

I'm not talking about crazy offroading. Anyone who regularly takes their camper on typical Forest Service or BLM roads or, like Paul, up to the ski hill in the winter, should understand what we're talking about here. Just basic capability to get down anything more than a gravel road.

[WME]

Well not planed mudbogging, but living in Wyoming and running forest roads in the spring/summer, having deditching tools is very high on the get home list. A heavy down pour and you have a choice of mudbogging or following a 4wd only road to get home. It doesn't take much to hi-center a Toy a hi-lift can make things a lot easier.

[MontanaChinook]

True! I just had a large 2-ton scissor jack that I used when I got stuck, but a high lift would have been sooo much easier.

[zero]

I recall someone mentioning that a rear locker can make a huge difference in traction, though I've not heard of anyone installing one on a Toyhome. I'd really like to get some opinions as to whether or not it's worth it, and what sort of difference it really makes.

Thanks!

I drove a diesel IH Scout as a service truck for years in bad conditions. 4WD and had governor-lockers front and back. Not the same as an air-locker or hydro-locker - but close enough. I prefer an open differential. If a locker engages when on a slippery road that has a crown to it (most do) - it would throw me sideways. The nice thing about an open differential is - the wheel that is best anchored to the road does not spin and keeps the vehicle somewhat anchored to the road. An open diff sends power to both wheels based on % of traction. If it's equal on both sides - both wheels get 50% of the power. It would be nice though - that when one wheel is spinning - and you want to momentarily engage the other - to have separate parking brake cables. All you'd need to do is engage the brake on the wheel that 's spinning and then the other would turn. Note that if your parking brakes work well - and a wheel is spinning - and you're stuck . . . you can engage the brakes to the point where load on both sides becomes equal and both wheels will turn. They will be fighting the brakes though. In an emergency this will sometimes get you out of rut. Farm tractors can let the operator select which wheel gets power because they have two separate brake pedals. Many newer cars have electronic traction control that works in similar fashion. When a wheel spins - the brake comes on and sends power to the other wheel.

I don't take my 20 foot Toyota RV off road much. Not much ground clearance. The open diff with dual wheels gets surprisingly good traction as it is - due to all the weight. For an emergency - I'd rather have a winch instead of a locking diff.

[superchiem]

An air locker or an electric locker would be ideal. You can use it when you need and leave it off when you don't as simple as that. Once I get my rv back on the road after all my smog referee motor swap nonsense, I will probably start looking into lockers. My 2004 tacoma has an electric locker and it works perfect. It actually pulled my rv out of the sand at pismo beach. If I had a locker I would have driven all the way to the campsite.

[zero]

I can see an air-locker being handy. A separate parking brake cable for each side would accomplish the same thing.

[zero]

I live in an area where a 2WD vehicle -especially RWD - would not even make it to my house on the public road for maybe 1/4 of the year. Had lots of experience in those sort of conditions. Not off road. Just very steep mud or snow covered public roads. I've had several lockers and posi-traction units. They sometimes make things worse since spinning both wheels can mean the vehicle breaks loose and slides sideways. All depends on conditions. I'd rather have a winch if getting "unstuck" is the issue. Or 4WD and lots of ground clearance. Not something great to have with a motorhome if you care about fuel mileage and ease of getting in and out. That all being said - with an open differential - all that needs to be done when one wheel spins - is to apply brakes to it and the other will kick in.