Skydancer2992 Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 The manual I was quoting from is actually the 1990 Toyota Truck Repair manual Volume I, that I bought on Ebay for $20. It includes both the 3VZ and 22RE engines. For 85, there was only one volume for the engine, frame and accessories. In later years, the engine became volume I and the accessories/frame items were included in volume II. Many campers use the vehicle of the prior year. My 1991 Warrior is actually a 1990 Toyota truck. I like having a hard copy when working on the vehicle. In my younger years, I would show the manual and procedure to the mechanic. One actually said he would have had a hard time without the manual. Bests to you, Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 I have an 88 on my web sit. It should be reasonably close for the 22RE. Its 85 meg so if your on dial up, plan about 4 weeks to download.http://iflyez.com/DOWNLOAD/88_TOYOTA_TRUCK_Service_Manual.pdfJohn Mc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 A hard copy is nice for sure. So is a digital copy. Great for printing out the pages for the job at hand to carry to the garage. Keeps the grease off the hard copy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmansteve Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 You folks are Rock Stars with this stuff. Wile waiting for the ECM reset I pulled the plugs. They look good, I think. 4,3,2,1 Left to Right in both pics. Considering just changing the O2 sensor, but don't like to change more than 1 thing at a time. Thoughts on changing O2 sensor? Truly, Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmansteve Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Just ran the Mighty Dolphin after doing the ECM reset. I drove it normally, got it up to operating temperature. Took it to highway speed (65 mph) briefly. About a 20 minutes of running. Sit it down and restarted it. It starts pretty much like it used to, although Waiter was correct, it did run rough for about 10 minutes or so. Truly, Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 If its still having a hard start problem, one way to eliminate/troubleshoot the fuel system is to turn the fuel pump on about 10 seconds before you attempt to start.1) Jumper the fuel pump test connector. (This bypasses the fuel pump switch in the MFS and tells the pump to run)2) Turn the ignition on, if you listen very carefully, you should hear the fuel pump running.3) Wait about 10 seconds, then attempt to start.Let us know what happens and we'll go from there. John Mc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott2013 Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Hi Steve, ran across your thread of problems, quit holding the pedal down, a little or a lot,,, opening the valve body butterfly will not accomplish you anything. air begins @ the filter box w/ M.A.S. ,,, is your fuel pump relay work'g,? the correction you made on the charcoal canister will aid in the tank return line pressure, but not so much to start it. Have you had any luck w/ it starting yet ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmansteve Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Hi John Mc and Dolphin Masters: The hard starting went away briefly and I got her back to Evergreen. I've mostly had her parked, but have found the hard-starting problem to have returned......... I tried leaving the ignition on for a about 10 seconds before starting and I can hear the fuel pump, but this doesn't help. I did change the Oxygen Sensor while still in CA and the plugs were good. I think I posted pics of these earlier. I started investigating the air intake. It looks like there is a module that controls an air intake damper. Could this be a potential problem? How would I check its functionality? Also, the 6 min JB Weld has held up on the Charcoal Canister :-) As always, your feedback and input are greatly appreciated Regards, Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Any air leak between the intake and the air flow sensor is not a good thing. The rubber fittings and the plastic tube leaking will confuse the sensor there has to be tight connection between the intake and the air flow sensor. When you crank the engine the pump runs, once the key is switched to run the air flow meter takes over fuel pump management. The air flow meter has a hinged door inside it is attached to a potentiometer inside that probably is the module you are talking about ever thing is internal no external control it is output only to the ECM. You have a cold start injector in the back of the intake plenum it injects fuel during the crank cycle below XX temperature problems with the injector can cause start issues. The O2 sensor does absolutely nothing during a cold start it has to be pretty hot before it does anything like really hot they also will set a code if it is out to lunch. That is a very common code on the 22RE if there is a code set. The ECM is pretty dumb by modern standards it does not “adapt” like modern ones do what you see is what you get the tables are preset. A vacuum leak will make the mix lean because it is unregistered air (did not pass through the air flow sensor) so the ECM does not recognize it if it is great enough the O2 sensor will once it is hot and set a lean code. If your problem is a cold start or a restart after sitting I would have a look at the cold start injector system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmansteve Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Hi Maineah: Thanks for the lesson. I'll start investigating the cold-start injector system. Regards, Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmansteve Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 Greetings Dolphin Masters: I finally bit the bullet and took my Dolphin to the local Toyota dealership for diagnosis. The short answer is that the fuel pump was the problem. Just a bit tricky because it seemingly ran fine at steady state. The fuel pump pressure was low ( building to 20 psi when it should get to over 30 psi). This contributed to the problem because the check valve that is supposed to hold the fuel system pressurized was bad. So, every time I shut the engine down the fuel system pressure was dropping to 0psi. Combined with a "weak" fuel pump the fuel system took a long time to come up to a pressure great enough for the engine to start. My regular mechanic removed and replaced it today and my Dolphin is once-again starting immediately with the turn of the key. a note to you do-it-yourself mechanics: the drive shaft needed to be dropped on my 1986 Dolphin to be able to drop the gas tank. I just disconnected the battery awhile ago to reset the ECM. I figure the new operating pressure of the system may affect the performance. I could be wrong on this since the fuel system pressure regulator was checked and found to be functional. Once again, I greatly appreciate the wealth of knowledge and support you folks have provided in resolving this problem. I can now move on to finishing my shower remodel............. Truly, Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 EXCELLENT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott2013 Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 MntnMan Steve Good morn'g, Good to hear that you got this situation taken care of, you've certainly learned a plethora of info. Sometimes it's just as simple as the obvious, One thing about older toy's,,, taken care of and maintained well, it's usually just the simplest of problems, you can over work it some times, I and most have who tinker on these things, now I go to the lesser of the evils, presto ~ 9 of 10 times that's it. again glad to hear your off an running .............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Mountain Man - Do you happen to have an after-market fuel tank? Some of the after-market tanks extend above the driveshaft while the stock tank does not. Do you know what your fuel capacity is? I would love to have a 25 gallon tank to extend my range, I currently start looking very seriously for gas at 200 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmansteve Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Hi Bob: As far as I know, my fuel tank is stock. It fills very slowly, but is somewhere in the size range of 45 gallons. Truly, Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Hi Bob: As far as I know, my fuel tank is stock. It fills very slowly, but is somewhere in the size range of 45 gallons. Truly, Stephen There is no room for 45 gallon tank underneath a Toyota unless you have 2 tanks. The 26 gallon tank that was optional on some Toy's fits every tiny bit of space on that side. I would love to see pics of the tank that's there Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmansteve Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 Hi Linda: yeah, my mechanic, Scott, said the tank is quite interesting. Snowing in Evergreen today, I'll get a pic in the next day or so. Truly, Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 Wow if it was a stock tank you would have a lot of gas on the ground! A bit closer to 45 liters for a stock one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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