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Last week was my first experience driving my Toyhome in the snow. Some lessons:

1) The front brakes are WAY too aggressive. It takes nothing for them to lock up vs. the rears. Looks like I need to have the bias adjustment done.

2) The tires aren't especially effective on snow or ice. Les Schwab told me that I should have the tires siped. When they tried to sipe them, they found that the 14" rims weren't fitting on their siping machine.

So...question. Is siping worth it, and if so does anyone have a recommendation as to where I can get it done?

Finally: If no, I'm going to explore buying Nokian snow tires. That's an expensive option that I'd prefer to avoid.

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Adjusting the brake bias is the most important thing you can do. Drive slower is the other.

Siping helps, but it does not make normal tires snow tires. If you look at modern stud less snow tire they are heavily sipped.

If you are going to continue to drive in snow then snow tires or tire chains are the answer, look for spare rims so that you can easily change the snow tires come spring.

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Adjusting the brake bias is the most important thing you can do. Drive slower is the other.

Siping helps, but it does not make normal tires snow tires. If you look at modern stud less snow tire they are heavily sipped.

If you are going to continue to drive in snow then snow tires or tire chains are the answer, look for spare rims so that you can easily change the snow tires come spring.

I'm guessing that finding spare rims for a 1990 dually Toyota can't be easy...

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You bet ya that's one big reason mine stayed home when it snowed. With the duel wheels it will move fairly well but stopping is not really a selling point. Any rear weighted truck will slide the front wheels it was not that long ago that dump trucks and the like had no front brakes.

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Last week was my first experience driving my Toyhome in the snow. Some lessons:

1) The front brakes are WAY too aggressive. It takes nothing for them to lock up vs. the rears. Looks like I need to have the bias adjustment done.

2) The tires aren't especially effective on snow or ice. Les Schwab told me that I should have the tires siped. When they tried to sipe them, they found that the 14" rims weren't fitting on their siping machine.

So...question. Is siping worth it, and if so does anyone have a recommendation as to where I can get it done?

Finally: If no, I'm going to explore buying Nokian snow tires. That's an expensive option that I'd prefer to avoid.

Unless the motorhome has DRUM brakes in the front there is no way to adjust them. When front brakes grab or lockup and slide its time to check the front shoes for metal to metal contact which will make a screeching metal sound. Most lockup are caused by air in the brake system,symptom might have hard brake pedal. They need to be bled off to get the air out of the system. Thanks rod.
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Unless the motorhome has DRUM brakes in the front there is no way to adjust them. When front brakes grab or lockup and slide its time to check the front shoes for metal to metal contact which will make a screeching metal sound. Most lockup are caused by air in the brake system,symptom might have hard brake pedal. They need to be bled off to get the air out of the system. Thanks rod.

See the threads on this topic. Brake bias is adjustable in our Toyhomes.
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not only is there a bias adjustment. the rear drum brakes somtimes need a manuel brake adjustment buy adjusting the brake shoes i dont remember if they have star adjusters.so called auto adjust rear brakes sometimes still get out of adjustment. i would check the rear brake shoe adjust first.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yes, siping the tires will help.

Very Strong Vote for Nokian's. I have been using them for four years now. They are rated 'Ice & Snow'. They work great.

I am getting about 30K on the front tires and about 40K on the rear tires. I will have to replace all 6 again next year.

The front tires have to be re-balanced often to reduce tire cupping. It will happen anyway, but you can make them last longer.

Yes, they are more expensive. No, I do not have to worry about my tires slipping on the snow.

In California, I have to use chains for R-2 conditions. For the CHP, not for the vehicle. Outside of California, I have never used chains. Thousands of miles on snow covered roads without any problem.

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  • 2 months later...

My 1982 Sunrader has star adjusters in the rear, plus has automatic adjusters - Even so, they still need adjusting occasionally. Be careful because they will only tighten. To loosen them if you go too far with the adjustment is a real pain. It takes 2 adjustmant tools and the feeling abiliy of a lock picker!

Bill

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another point when driving on snow and ice. if you are an old timer like myself. we learned to pump the brakes slowly and gently. many younger drivers learned to drive on cars or trucks with antilock brakes which you do not pump. so when driving one of these old toyotas you need to look, think extra way ahead and pump the brakes lightly. now when i drive a newer type car or van i have to tell myself do not pump the brakes. a new thing for us over 60

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The majority of the weight is way behind the front brakes you need all the braking force you can get on the rear brakes this is why the front breaks lockup when it's slick there is not enough weight or tire area to give them traction. The bias adjustment if it's working at all other than wide open on the rear brakes is at the max because of the weight the real reason they put them on the trucks was to keep the rears from locking up on the pickups when there was no weight in the bed that is not an issue with the toy home it all ready at max flow. The bias valve only has an effect on the rear brakes there is no connection to the front. Frankly the best thing you could do to the bias valve in the back is bypass it. As 5toyota said years ago you learned to "feather" the breaks or when they started to slide pump them rapidly, a sliding tire has no traction.

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