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Inverter/converter info.


Debbit

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While we were getting ready for our trip, I kept the dolphin plugged in to shore power. The converter on ours has a red and a brown switch. I kept the brown one on to use the lights while working out there at night. I did read that the battery can be damaged by overcharging. I think that happened, as we had to buy a new one the first stop on our trip.

Now I'm confused. If you are plugged in for an extended time, how do you prevent overcharging and damaging the battery? The lights don't work unless the switch to the inverter is in the on position, right?

Should the switch on the converter be on or off while driving, or does it matter?

Both cab and cabine batterie pies seemed to be below power even after a long shop charge. Does being plugged in also charge the vehicle battery?

Sorry for all the questions!

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Truck battery is only charged by alternator, not plug in. Don't know what your power system is cause mine doesn't have an on off switch. Lights are 12 volt though and shouldn't need inverter. Power system is usually a converter so you can charge 12 volt battey from 110 volt.

Linda S

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Original converter/chargers can be really lame. They have a low charge rate and still can boil a battery dry in long term storage. One of the best things you can do is to install a modern 3 stage converter/charger, your battery will love you for doing so.

For long term storage I just take 10 amp fuse and using a pigtail holder place it across the isolator. This will let the charger charge both batteries. Remove the fuse in the spring. Should you forget :glare: ,the fuse it will pop the first time you start the engine and return the isolator to its normal status. Next winter you can buy another $.50 fuse.

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If a new converter is not in the budget buy a cheap timer and set it for an hour a day.

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The first upgrade that I did on my RV was to replace the original converter with a Progressive Dynamics three stage model 9245. The original got so hot while plugged in that you could not touch it with a bare hand. I check the converter occasionally while it is plugged in and the converter does cycle through its stages.

The 9245 is available for $120 plus shipping on E-Bay right now.

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With out a doubt it is one of the best upgrades you can do. The old ones not only were poorly regulated they only charged the battery at a few amps.

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I was just doing some repairs on a pop-up camper that my kids use. The inverter is a Carson Power Pack Model Cp-6FK1. It puts out a constant 13.1 volts. It is not regulated at all. Just plug it in and boil the battery dry in no time at all. It also buzzes you to sleep and provides heat for those chilly nights. Glad I replaced my old converter in the RV.\

By the way, I will not be plugging the pop-up into shore power ever. I will use a battery charger to top off the battery when needed.

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Thanks again for all the help and advice. Got a new deep cycle battery. We will avoid plugging in, as coach battery charges while driving. If I'm going to be plugged in for a while, (air conditioner only reason I can think of) would be good to simply disconnect deep cycle?

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Some of them are adjustable. I set mine down to 13.5 VDC, which is a maint charge, when it was in the RV. It's only a low amp charger anyway, now set for 13.87 as a shop charger at that it puts out slightly over 1 amp.

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Thanks again for all the help and advice. Got a new deep cycle battery. We will avoid plugging in, as coach battery charges while driving. If I'm going to be plugged in for a while, (air conditioner only reason I can think of) would be good to simply disconnect deep cycle?

I don't think that would be a problem but leaving it plugged in for weeks would many outfits sell battery maintainers they are pretty cheap just hook one of them to the battery when it's parked at home and just don't plug it in

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  • 6 months later...

Depending on your new battery (deep cycle, AGM, gel) all have specific needs and specifications for charging. The most current models (general you find the chargers in Marine Stores) have four stage chargers, each stage is standardized, but the cut in and cut out voltage is different for each different type of battery. Some of the more expensive model chargers are also equipped with a remote battery temperature monitor which operates independent of charging stage. The reason is as the charger is supplying a charge, it may increase the current, which in turn can overheat your expensive batteries. Overheating will dramatically shorten the life of your battery. The charger will sense a rise in battery internal temperature and cut back on the current being applied. You may not experience this if for instance you are in a cooler part of the country, or winter camping, the heat can be dissipated and no harm done, the charger will stay with its calculation of how much current to the battery. Now you are in a hot part of the country, and now there is a different set of circumstances, and the battery charger will scale back. On the other side, I have seen folks who have gone with the maintainer type chargers (typically around 30.00 dollars) and they put out about 2.5 amps. Over the long haul, what may happen is sulphurization, or sulphur coating overall on the battery plates. Once this has happened, the battery is compromised, will not hold a charge and what typically happens the owner thinks more is better leaves it on and boils off the electrolyte in the battery and in the end destroys the battery.

Boot.

Invest in either a multistage charger built in to the convertor, (the best choice) or buy a 4 stage charger and connect it manually.

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My 93 Warrior has the stock converter (note - an inverter is a very different animal).

When I plug in to shore power for more than a day I disconnect the hot lead (it is easier to get to - can do it by just opening the compartment access door).

From past experience, even though the converter is supposed to recognize a fully charged battery, I do believe it cooked the battery by overcharging when left connected while on shore power for many days.

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