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Trans flush? What type of fluid and how much?


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Just the zero. there is no zero weight oil just a lower pour point. The lowest viscosity is 5 it is based on time to flow through a viscosity meter the lowest time being 5 seconds if it was zero it would take zero seconds to flow through the meter that of course is impossible. Will it lube faster yes but only because of the pour point, great for turbo engines but the bottom line there are a very few of us that would have any need of instant oil flow at -51F even with a turbo so a 5W-20 oil would be fine for some thing around - 45F. The synthetic oil blend people love numbers that sound good on paper. As far as an automatic transmission all most worthless by the time the engine is running the automatic is pumping plenty of oil.

according to wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

big suprise..... everything you have just said is incorrect.

there is 0 and 0w weight oil

a 0w-20 oil, like oh synthetic atf for example.

dexron 6, lets use that as an example.

has to pass the sae rating for both a 0w( which is 0 winter) and a 20 ( non w) and the ranges between them, like 5 w

so it is a thinner oil at pour temperature than the dexron 2.

I am sure that nobody who can read with comprehension is confused. and if they are, theres the article so you will understand.

On the opposite field i am sure that people who are permanently confused are never going to get it so there you go. Remind me not to take my transmission to your shop.... in the 80s.

it is a proven fact, FACT that replacing a transmission fluid from dexron 2 to dexron 6 will improve gas mileage. It could not help but do so being a thinner oil. If it did not, it would be MAGIC, defying the very laws of physics.

all the 0 weight oil at the auto parts store will actually say improves fuel economy on it.

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for those who cant read, i have to say that it says pretty clearly in wikipedia that 0w oil specification is a viscosity test made at 0 degrees, and 5 w oil is a viscosity test made at 5 degrees.

It doesnt have anything to do with 5 seconds. Like any logical person would assume, 0 w oil is thinner oil...... than 5 w oil..... anything else is strange fiction that gets out of hand here sometimes.

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SAE J 300 DOES define a 0w oil and it is different than a 5w.

Yes it is but "W" stands for winter not weight. The lowest viscosity oil is 5.

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for those who cant read, i have to say that it says pretty clearly in wikipedia that 0w oil specification is a viscosity test made at 0 degrees, and 5 w oil is a viscosity test made at 5 degrees.

It doesnt have anything to do with 5 seconds. Like any logical person would assume, 0 w oil is thinner oil...... than 5 w oil..... anything else is strange fiction that gets out of hand here sometimes.

The measurement is time based it is imposable for something to flow in zero seconds. If only read what you want to hear this is for your edifaction http://www.machinerylubrication.com/(X(1)S(f4gria452wxay4aqzniy3ijj))/Read/411/oil-viscosity

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according to wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

big suprise..... everything you have just said is incorrect.

there is 0 and 0w weight oil

a 0w-20 oil, like oh synthetic atf for example.

dexron 6, lets use that as an example.

has to pass the sae rating for both a 0w( which is 0 winter) and a 20 ( non w) and the ranges between them, like 5 w

so it is a thinner oil at pour temperature than the dexron 2.

I am sure that nobody who can read with comprehension is confused. and if they are, theres the article so you will understand.

On the opposite field i am sure that people who are permanently confused are never going to get it so there you go. Remind me not to take my transmission to your shop.... in the 80s.

it is a proven fact, FACT that replacing a transmission fluid from dexron 2 to dexron 6 will improve gas mileage. It could not help but do so being a thinner oil. If it did not, it would be MAGIC, defying the very laws of physics.

all the 0 weight oil at the auto parts store will actually say improves fuel economy on it.

Please print these "facts" and no the manufactures hype will not do these are the same people that call blended syn. oil "pure synthetic" I will not dispute the fact 0W is thinner but it is not a viscosity weight it is pour point only and the object to better flow at low temps this is important for people that regularly operate their motor home in temps of -51*F

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the part in that article..... is right there.

hey are the Cold Cranking Simulator (ASTMD5293) and the Mini-Rotary Viscometer (ASTM D4684). Based on the coldest temperature the oil passes at, that oil is graded as SAE viscosity grade 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W. The lower the viscosity grade, the lower the temperature the oil can pass. For example, if an oil passes at the specifications for 10W and 5W, but fails for 0W, then that oil must be labeled as an SAE 5W. That oil cannot be labeled as either 0W or 10W.

no offense but how can you miss this, both of you.

Im not trying to argue with you maineah but the truth is, the only reason i even believe you were a mechanic, is that every single other mechanic ive ever known didnt know crap about cars either and got really used to bsing and sounding like an authority.

the rating on oil is the lowest temperature the oil can pass those tests.

THATS IT!!!!!!

NO NEED TO BE CONFUSED!!!!!

-10w oil is rated to pass at at i believe -20 degrees below 0wits farenheight this being AMERICAN

whether this helps people understand what the op was asking about, which transmission fluid to use or not, im not sure. But it will help countless people who come to this forum with questions to remember which names have no idea what they are talking about and have terrible reading comprehension.

If I could help you more I could but this is a forum where reading is key read that. stop read it again. stop read it again. then post that you understand. then move on being educated.

ok heres whats advanced, in that paragraph you might need a highschool diploma for. IF AN OIL PASSES FOR 10 and 5 but not 0 it must be called 5w and not 0w or 10 w. Now admit it, you dont understand in fact youre totally lost.

iok the reason it cant be called 5w-10w is because it has to cover 10 degrees in order to be a label. I understand this pretty clearly, but then again ive been to college. Dont be embarrassed ok, just go slow.

I know its tough for you if you have a specific question theres a chance i can help spell it out for you easier. but this could be something tough for you.

it can be called 5-20 but theres no spot for 5-15. i for one think its not perfectly clear, but I definitely do understand it. overall if you dont understand, ignore that whole concept its not that important. just let them make the grades they want, and realize the first temperature listed is the temperature it passes those tests.

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The measurement is time based it is imposable for something to flow in zero seconds. If only read what you want to hear this is for your edifaction http://www.machinerylubrication.com/(X(1)S(f4gria452wxay4aqzniy3ijj))/Read/411/oil-viscosity

according to this the number is the degrees the oil can pass the test

i also lists 0w oil. there are different tests it lists. there is nothing anywhere that lists it as a measurement of time, anywhere thats a point of confusion only in your head. theres nobody else confused about that.

-10 oil will pass at a lower temperature, likely -45

-20 oil will pass at a lower temperature.

nowhere in that whole article does it say that its an amount of time. in fact nowhere on earth does it say that, because thats bs. 5w oil is not the thinnest oil, not even close. that doesnt even make any sense, it never did it never will, that is ridiculous.

did you read that article. Read that article. if you read that article your reading comprehension is atrocious. your dont have even the basic consumers education on what oil classifications mean, meaning the op knows a lot more about what to use than you do.

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"0w oil specification is a viscosity test made at 0 degrees, and 5 w oil is a viscosity test made at 5 degrees."

I don't seem to be able to find any confirmation of this statement. I'm not even sure if it's degrees Centigrade or Fahrenheit! :)

my mistake, it seems to be the number -30 farenheit

or i do believe it is the kelvin scale that starts at 0 but uses the farenheit numbers.

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the part in that article..... is right there.

hey are the Cold Cranking Simulator (ASTMD5293) and the Mini-Rotary Viscometer (ASTM D4684). Based on the coldest temperature the oil passes at, that oil is graded as SAE viscosity grade 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W. The lower the viscosity grade, the lower the temperature the oil can pass. For example, if an oil passes at the specifications for 10W and 5W, but fails for 0W, then that oil must be labeled as an SAE 5W. That oil cannot be labeled as either 0W or 10W.

no offense but how can you miss this, both of you.

Im not trying to argue with you maineah but the truth is, the only reason i even believe you were a mechanic, is that every single other mechanic ive ever known didnt know crap about cars either and got really used to bsing and sounding like an authority.

the rating on oil is the lowest temperature the oil can pass those tests.

THATS IT!!!!!!

NO NEED TO BE CONFUSED!!!!!

-10w oil is rated to pass at at i believe -20 degrees below 0wits farenheight this being AMERICAN

whether this helps people understand what the op was asking about, which transmission fluid to use or not, im not sure. But it will help countless people who come to this forum with questions to remember which names have no idea what they are talking about and have terrible reading comprehension.

If I could help you more I could but this is a forum where reading is key read that. stop read it again. stop read it again. then post that you understand. then move on being educated.

ok heres whats advanced, in that paragraph you might need a highschool diploma for. IF AN OIL PASSES FOR 10 and 5 but not 0 it must be called 5w and not 0w or 10 w. Now admit it, you dont understand in fact youre totally lost.

iok the reason it cant be called 5w-10w is because it has to cover 10 degrees in order to be a label. I understand this pretty clearly, but then again ive been to college. Dont be embarrassed ok, just go slow.

I know its tough for you if you have a specific question theres a chance i can help spell it out for you easier. but this could be something tough for you.

it can be called 5-20 but theres no spot for 5-15. i for one think its not perfectly clear, but I definitely do understand it. overall if you dont understand, ignore that whole concept its not that important. just let them make the grades they want, and realize the first temperature listed is the temperature it passes those tests.

You can call zero weight anything you want I don’t care by the standards there is no such a thing as zero weight oil. It is still an oil but it cannot pass any test that requires time to flow it is a technicality it does not exist as viscosity. ASTM D445 and ISO 3104 states TIME TO POUR THROUGH it cannot take zero time much less - time. The only way they are able to call it that is because of it's pour point and the only reason it's so low is because it is syn. Now the only thing I really have to say about your diatribe is stamar, you rank in the category of "willfully ignorant" and that has nothing to do with oil. If you indeed graduated from collage it was only because they took mercy on you and said here is your diploma and the door. As someone with many years more than yours I can advise you to try not to attack people you know nothing about it will turn around and bite you where it hurts the most. I’m done the subject is yours carry on.

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thought the question was "Trans flush" What type of fluid and how much? Why are you guys bashing each other?

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Went to the auto parts store for oil/filter for the Ford and the Toyota dealer is nearby so I stopped in and asked them what they put in my Toy when they did all the work and he said Dex III, what they put in all the old trucks.
I still haven't decided what to go to but it is winter now and real, real cold so no hurry. The Dex Merc is cheap and the Mobile 1 is costly, others in between.
john

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thought the question was "Trans flush" What type of fluid and how much? Why are you guys bashing each other?

Thank You Darrel!!!!

this thread is way out of hand & needs to get back to the basic we are not rocket scientist and 98% of us don't care how the oil is tested.

for people who are looking for good info on changing trans fluid would probable stop reading this thread because of all the useless I'm smarter then you chest ponding post....

The only question is what is a better transmission fluid dextron-2 dextron-3 or dextron-6 for our Toyota rv's

I'm going with the dextron-6 drain and fill & change again after 100 miles...

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  • 7 months later...

I'm curious since I don't know what brand or type fluid is in my Toyota. Would it hurt it to drain it and start adding a synthetic to it and keep repeating this till the fluid looks good. I know I've read where it doesn't hurt engines to switch from standard oil to synthetic or even running both in your engine at the same time. But I'm not sure about transmissions. Any thoughts on this?

Edited by JUSTABANGER
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Im running dexron 6 in my v6 dolphin. makes a big difference. think auto box still had orginal oil 25 year old oil in it. looked good though. changing mine using passive flush method as dex6 will clean up internals. have use 2 litres on change every 1000 miles. box is so much smoother not that it was rough before.

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Im running dexron 6 in my v6 dolphin. makes a big difference. think auto box still had orginal oil 25 year old oil in it. looked good though. changing mine using passive flush method as dex6 will clean up internals. have use 2 litres on change every 1000 miles. box is so much smoother not that it was rough before.

My Dolphin V6 has 118k on it. I'm doubtful the oil has been changed in recent history. So you think I should use the Dex 6? How many changes did you do to make sure debris wouldn't cause issues?

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Hi

i stopped after 3 as my oil in auto box looked the same as in new refill bottles. now just drain two litres everytime i do an engine oil change

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I'm in Toyota dealers a couple times a week, delivering WeatherTech. I finally remembered to get them to make me a spare key. I've been walking around without one since I got the Dolphin. Brian, head of the parts department; nice guy, charged me a buck. While he was doing that I brought up the ATF question. He basically said that they like to stick with the old stuff as recommended because they're afraid the new synths might be too light and skoosh past the seals. So I'd say that they're being cautious.

That's probably what it comes down to, are you cautious or adventurous? Nobody is going to do a rigorous study on the matter. Luckily I don't have to worry about that yet. My PO said he swapped out every fluid on the vehicle, including the rear end. I tend to believe him, as he is a big gearhead. All the fluids I can see sure look fresh. When it comes down to it, I'll have to admit that I lean toward the adventurous.

Now I have to figure out who can make a spare coach door key. Lowes couldn't.

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I'm curious since I don't know what brand or type fluid is in my Toyota. Would it hurt it to drain it and start adding a synthetic to it and keep repeating this till the fluid looks good. I know I've read where it doesn't hurt engines to switch from standard oil to synthetic or even running both in your engine at the same time. But I'm not sure about transmissions. Any thoughts on this?

A lot of oil sold in the USA and Canada as "pure or 100% synthetic" has no synthetic content at all. Perfectly legal to market that way here. Not in Europe. Mixing is no different then mixing any other oils. The label reading "synthetic" not is a non-issue. It's more about what ever additives are in the oil - especially the friction modifiers for automatic transmissions with wet-clutches..

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I use dextron2 -- I changed mine when I got it - filter was clean, there are magnets in the pan - they had a little aluminum on them - no chunksof steel.

I would NOT do a power flush.

I would NOT add additves -- until after it had a few thousand miles on it AFTER changing the fluid.

Dropping the pan is a personal decision - little bit of a pain, - you do not want to break any bolts or scar the gasket facemetal.

I would consider draining the fluid that will come out (about 2 quarts) - replace that fluid & drive it to full operating temp & repeat until you have put in 3 gallons (it actually holds about 2 gallons) . With each iteration you will be draining more & more "new" fluid but you will get a lot of the old changed.

If the vehicle has been setting, drive drive drive & then evaluate if you want to play with additives. Once you put them in you can not easily remove them. If the tranny has some gunk built up in the last thing you want is to "break it loose" - it can block the small orifices that are vital to operation.

If after drive drive drive it still will not shift right - then maybe additives would be worth a try - if you are going to have to tear it down anyway.

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  • 2 years later...

I did a drain and fill with Dex 6 and it's going well. 1990 v6 3.0

Also, Stamar sounds like a real Jerk is wrong about alot of the things he said despite his tone of all knowingness 

Mainah was dead on. 

Fwiw the first number in the oil rating is chosen based on expected low temps, being in LA I felt comfortable with 15W and the second number is in regards to thickness at working temperature. Thinner can give you better mpg but as engines get older, higher will do a better job protecting looser bearings 

I choose rotella triple 15w-40

And motorcraft oil filter

And Walmart super tech Dex 6

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1 hour ago, Totem said:

Is Stamar back? I haven't seen a post from him in years.

Hasn't visited here since Feb, 2014. Funny though that so many people keep mentioning him though. Usually people who leave the group are quickly forgotten. He may not have been popular but he started one of the biggest threads ever on this site. The "What did you do to your Toyhome today" one. I hate that thread. So many great ideas lost in a thread thousands of posts long.

Linda S

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Nothing is really lost; its all searchable. The argument could be made that many more "stream of consciousness"  improvements are never captured because a user doesn't want to start a new thread or find the proper one to comment in.

The main problem with stamars thread is that once searched you may need to read through a lot of junk to find a pearl - the page layout limits this -but nonetheless it may be in there.

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  • 3 months later...

I use Amsoil engine and transmission flush. I also use the synthetic trans fluid as well.....Best on the market from what I have read up on. 

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