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PLEASE HELP. Just bought my Dolphin V6. Found out it has a dead cylinder.


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Hi all. New to the forum, but wish I had better news on my 'new' Toyhome.

I just bought a 1990 Dolphin V6 Automatic from a guy a few hours outside of Portland. He represented the vehicle had loads of recent work, including a full tune up. I did notice it idled rough, but he said that was because it was cold. When I got back to Portland it was still idling rough, so I immediately took it to a mechanic. Two days later, they've determined that one of the cylinders is shot. Naturally, the guy I bought it from is saying 'tough luck.'

That part aside, and assuming I'm stuck: Has anyone here had to rebuild the 3.0 V6? Can it be converted to the infinitely more reliable 3.4L when it has the automatic? How long can you drive with a dead cylinder? While idle was terrible, it still drove well at cruise speeds.

This is a bit of a nightmare for me. It looked like it was well maintained, but I suddenly feel like I'm out $6,000. I feel sick and can't imagine sharing this with my wife right now.

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have them rebore repair the cylinder or get a reman engine. you are definately out some $ though. This is the reason many folks hunt the slightly slower but bulletproof 22REs

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Not a big deal if your able to do the work yourself. There was a re-call on some of the 6 cyl many years ago, I don't re-call what it was.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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Check the recall, SOME people have had the engine under warannty. Did your mech say cylinder vs valve?

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The recall was for the head gasket. Blown head gasket will effect more than just one cylinder but this engine also has valves that need to be adjusted and if it's not done they are known to burn the valve on cylinder #6. Is that the cylinder that they are saying is shot? Possible you could just repair the valves that are damaged. They could cause the same symptoms you are experiencing. Is your mechanic a toyota guy. Really makes a difference if they know the issues that this engine has. If valves are not the issues the are al lot of good Toyota engine places in Portland. Engine builders comes to mind. Get the valves checked first

Linda S

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Find out what's wrong first. If you can dis and re assemble main parts it's not that bad to have heads repaired.

I did a valve job on Mary's 93 Opel GT and they sent the head to a place in Oakland that replaced a cracked exhaust valve seat and crack in the head and were able to save the valve. Ran great till she sold it. But I also replaced the cam with what was called a "3/4" grind. Combined with the Weber carb it ran as good or better than my ferrari red '90, which had much higher compression. Whole thing didn't cost that much, well under 1,000$.

Investigate before despair, you can still come out OK.

vanman

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Hi all. New to the forum, but wish I had better news on my 'new' Toyhome.

I just bought a 1990 Dolphin V6 Automatic from a guy a few hours outside of Portland. He represented the vehicle had loads of recent work, including a full tune up. I did notice it idled rough, but he said that was because it was cold. When I got back to Portland it was still idling rough, so I immediately took it to a mechanic. Two days later, they've determined that one of the cylinders is shot. Naturally, the guy I bought it from is saying 'tough luck.'

You drove this thing and didn't notice it only ran on 5 cylinders?? That seems unlikely. I know I'd notice. If it's running on 6 going down the road but only on 5 when idling - the repair might not be all that bad.

The mechanic told you a "cylinder is shot." Did you ask him/her to translate that into technical English? I.e. - does it have lack of fuel, lack or spark, or low compression? If the latter - is the low compression due to a cylinder/piston wear problem or a valve problem? Note that a piston/ring/cylinder problem bad enough to cause no fire would be extremely rare. And - if a valve was burnt so bad to make compression that low -you'd likely hear it leaking. If a valve isn't opening or closing - a fix can be done without a rebuild. I think you need a better explanation about what is wrong.

One easy, simple, non-tech test. If low compression is the problem - just squirt some motor oil in the spark plug hole and retest. If the compression rises - the valves are NOT the problem.

Also - if the valves have gotten recessed in the heads and are too tight -it can cause a skip at idle but an OK run at higher RPMs.

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In the mid 70's the 20R engines had an issue with manifold gaskets I can not tell you how many we bought at the auctions that had a dead cylinder at idle. I had dozens of manifold gaskets on hand more often then not in an attempt to repair the problem the "mechanics" replaced every thing except the gasket. So a dead cylinder is a very broad statement and can have many causes. Yes there was a recall for head gaskets on the V6 3L and often the valves would tighten up to the point of a misfire with age but that does not mean it's your problem get them to clarify "shot". If this thing ran OK on the road and had plenty pep (I know that is subject to debate) it could be nothing more then a vacuum leak.

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Hi all. New to the forum, but wish I had better news on my 'new' Toyhome.

I just bought a 1990 Dolphin V6 Automatic from a guy a few hours outside of Portland. He represented the vehicle had loads of recent work, including a full tune up. I did notice it idled rough, but he said that was because it was cold. When I got back to Portland it was still idling rough, so I immediately took it to a mechanic. Two days later, they've determined that one of the cylinders is shot. Naturally, the guy I bought it from is saying 'tough luck.'

That part aside, and assuming I'm stuck: Has anyone here had to rebuild the 3.0 V6? Can it be converted to the infinitely more reliable 3.4L when it has the automatic? How long can you drive with a dead cylinder? While idle was terrible, it still drove well at cruise speeds.

This is a bit of a nightmare for me. It looked like it was well maintained, but I suddenly feel like I'm out $6,000. I feel sick and can't imagine sharing this with my wife right now.

Try not to be so hard on yourself. Some sleaze bag lied to you. That's his problem, not yours. If you like your Dolphin, put the bucks into it to fix it. At $6000, even if you wind up putting another $4000 into it (as we have our Dolphin which we also purchased for $6000) you still have a wonderful motorhome for 10 grand. How bad is that? It comes down to what its value is to you. Fix it, then enjoy the heck out of it knowing that scumball will get his karmic payback in the end.

Joe

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Joe, good point. 6k for one in good shape is a very good deal.

pull the heads, do a valve job, slap a new timing chain on that baby, and you'll be rady for another 100k.

('d rather do engine stuff than house stuff.

As JD said, what does "shot" mean. This could be something as simple as a valve adjust (Pain in the butt on 6 cyl) , or a little more complicated like a burnt valve. but I would almost guess thats probably worst case.

Take the VIN to a toyota dealer, see if the recall has ever been done (or was required) Then, if you don't want to do this yourself, find a good foreign car mechanic that knows about 1990 toyotas. WAG I suspect maybe 7 -900 for valve job and timing chain.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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I've become rather cynical about what mechanics say unless they give specifics.

Before you spend a lot of money, get a second opinion.

Most likely, the issue is something simple and not catastrophic.

Also, download the factory manual and check its troubleshooting tables. The manual is easy to read with lots of pictures. You can teach yourself to be your own mechanic. Toyotas are easy to fix and the manuals are excellent.

If the issue is a cylinder and you know which one, start with easy issues first: check plug, wire, rotor.

If not those items, fuel injector, etc. A fuel injector is not much harder than a spark plug.

If you know it is a valve, a whole refurbished head would be about $500.

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Dont give up yet you may just need valve adjustment. The exhaust valves on the v6 will tighten up after 70k or so and then that cylinder will start getting lower and lower compression eventually leading to a misfire and then if you continue too operate it it may burn that valve.On my v6 with about 120k miles i had several valves that were way to tight and a slight misfire starting to become obvious.When I did a compression test I found 2 cylinders with pretty low compression -I then pulled intake and valve covers and checked valve clearences and sure enough 4 of the 6 exhaust valves were too tight and the tightest ones were the cylinders with lowest compression. After changing shims to bring clearences into spec all my compression readings were then fine and truck ran great. This is a very commmon problem on all 3vze v6s -almost all will need exhaust valve reshimming when they get up around 100k or more.I pulled my cams out to do the job which made access to shims pretty easy -you measure (or may be able to read stamping) of all shims on too tight valves and then order thinner ones which will bring clearence into specs -probably need fsm for this job. Good luck, Bob.

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1) curious who you bought this from - was it on ebay by chance? (they have a good program to reimburse for ripoffs - I know someone who bought a rialta off ebay - well it had delamination on the fiberglass exterior which essentially 'totaled" it -- well ebay paid off. Reason I am curious is whenever I check ebay there is someone from Portland (and nearby) who is selling toys - the ads looks the same but the name changes. I had a friend who lived in Portland go look at one of his toys - I felt the ad was quite misleading.

2) definetly get more info on your problem. I would want compression reading on the 6 cylinders- that can tell a lot right there. Before buying a new engine get the readings (yes you can do it yourself - a compression tester is inexpensive & if you can change a spark plug you can check compression).

3) After IDing the cylinder (if that is really the issue) I would go a little further by pressurizing the cylinder with compressed air (or nitrogen or whatever compressed non volatile gas I could find) to see where the leak(s) are. Most likely you will be able to hear air hissing out either the air intake (intake valve), tailpipe (exhaust valve) or at oil fill cap (ring blowby).

4) If it is valve - you are in luck as valve job is not nearly as bad as a new engine. You might even luck out & find that adjusting the valves fixes it (assuming the valve has not been burned)

5) another easy test is to pull sparkplugs one at a time with the engine running ( i would still want the compression readings on ALL cylinders) with the engine running (might want to pull them one at a time being careful not to damage the wires with the engine off & cold - if u have done the compression readings you will already have done this drill). This procedure will yield some info - if there is no change in how the engine runs when pulling one cylinder but there is on the other 5 - yes you probably IDed it. I suspect that you will find one that causes noticeably less change implying it was not working well when it was firing.

6) Understand that your problem could be something else - individual cylinders can run poorly for other reasons - like a bad plug wire, distributor cap, fuel injector etc.

7) If you are completely helpless with engines at least get another opinion. Some mechanics are reallyonly parts changers - and yes some are incompetent & some are ripoffs.

8) I would not change the engine to anything else - these are excellent engines. Used in 4 runner during the same years. Unless I had a different engine laying around I would not even consider getting cute by redesigning anything significant. FYI - the v6 does a fairly good job - I have had mine up to 12,000' & all over the rockies.

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1) curious who you bought this from - was it on ebay by chance? (they have a good program to reimburse for ripoffs - I know someone who bought a rialta off ebay - well it had delamination on the fiberglass exterior which essentially 'totaled" it -- well ebay paid off. Reason I am curious is whenever I check ebay there is someone from Portland (and nearby) who is selling toys - the ads looks the same but the name changes. I had a friend who lived in Portland go look at one of his toys - I felt the ad was quite misleading.

Since the buyer had the opportunity to look the RV over AND drive it before buying - I don't see how any reasonble-thinking person can call the sale a "rip off."

It's one thing when you buy something sight-unseen and have to take the seller's word for certain things. Not the same when you've got ample opportunity to check it over in person and drive it.

If the seller is a professional mechanic and tells the buyer certain "facts" that wind up to be pure BS -OK - some deception going on. But when a non-mechanic seller is selling?? All bets are off and "caveat emptor" as far as I'm concerned. If neither the buyer or seller were mechanics and the buyer had some doubts - he/she could of offered less money or gotten a real mechanic involved.

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I bought '91 winnie this spring low compression 2 cylinders took off heads took to machine shop they did valve job I put heads back on with new timing belt have a nice motorhome for less than it would have cost in good condition. This happens with these engines a lot, that is why toyota did not make these engines for very long. Had same thing with '91 dolphin.

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Here's what I've heard so far: The #6 cyl is at 20lbs of compression. Someone here asked "How did you not know?" Well, it idled rough, but once you started moving forward there was nearly zero vibration, the power seemed fine (considering I had nothing to compare it to), and there were no other indicators. Further, the guy told me it had just had a full tune up the month before, which I verified. It baffles me that the shop that did the tune up would have missed it.

This morning I took it to a Toyota repair shop that came highly recommended. When I got there they said they wouldn't work on it because they didn't realize it was an RV. Like I said...I'm new to this.

I found this place in Portland: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/aos/3976255148.html

They said they will do it for $1,250.

The guy I bought it from has indicated he's willing to help to some extent. I'm increasingly convinced he knew it had this issue.

$6,000 for a 1990 with 108,000 miles. It didn't have a generator or propane refrigerator, which was fine at that price. But if I have to spend $3k for engine repairs, the equation changes quickly.

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You drove this thing and didn't notice it only ran on 5 cylinders?? That seems unlikely. I know I'd notice. If it's running on 6 going down the road but only on 5 when idling - the repair might not be all that bad.

The mechanic told you a "cylinder is shot." Did you ask him/her to translate that into technical English? I.e. - does it have lack of fuel, lack or spark, or low compression? If the latter - is the low compression due to a cylinder/piston wear problem or a valve problem? Note that a piston/ring/cylinder problem bad enough to cause no fire would be extremely rare. And - if a valve was burnt so bad to make compression that low -you'd likely hear it leaking. If a valve isn't opening or closing - a fix can be done without a rebuild. I think you need a better explanation about what is wrong.

One easy, simple, non-tech test. If low compression is the problem - just squirt some motor oil in the spark plug hole and retest. If the compression rises - the valves are NOT the problem.

Also - if the valves have gotten recessed in the heads and are too tight -it can cause a skip at idle but an OK run at higher RPMs.

Like I said, he told me it was just cold and that it had been tuned up the month prior. Only at idle do you notice anything. At cruise, it seems fine. But 20lbs of compression means the cylinder is shot.

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Joe, good point. 6k for one in good shape is a very good deal.

pull the heads, do a valve job, slap a new timing chain on that baby, and you'll be rady for another 100k.

('d rather do engine stuff than house stuff.

As JD said, what does "shot" mean. This could be something as simple as a valve adjust (Pain in the butt on 6 cyl) , or a little more complicated like a burnt valve. but I would almost guess thats probably worst case.

Take the VIN to a toyota dealer, see if the recall has ever been done (or was required) Then, if you don't want to do this yourself, find a good foreign car mechanic that knows about 1990 toyotas. WAG I suspect maybe 7 -900 for valve job and timing chain.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Thanks for the input. Would compression at 20lbs exist if it's a valve issue?

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That sounds just like what I experienced the seller tried to say it was plugged injectors but I knew better. $4500 purchase price & $500 machine shop & gaskets was a good deal for me because I was able to do the work myself. You don't find many '91 winnebagos for $5000.

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Thanks for the input. Would compression at 20lbs exist if it's a valve issue?

Hmm I seem to remember saying the burnt valve was usually on #6 cylinder. You got it home so drive it a little father and get it fixed right. This place in Woodburn is very skilled with Toyota motorhomes. Many on the Toyota camper site have gone to them and make the drive for all service. One guy drives from Seattle for service. It will get done and you won't get ripped off. A valve job is probably all you need. Owner of this shop is also a motorhome owner. Give them a call

Woodburn Automotive Repair Center (503) 981-8247

Linda S

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Your are still ahead even with a valve job at that price. Give Linda's guy a call sounds like he knows what he is doing. It does not surprise me that it has burnt valve but it's not the end of the world they still are pretty tough engines proper valve job and your good for another 100K

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Hmm I seem to remember saying the burnt valve was usually on #6 cylinder. You got it home so drive it a little father and get it fixed right. This place in Woodburn is very skilled with Toyota motorhomes. Many on the Toyota camper site have gone to them and make the drive for all service. One guy drives from Seattle for service. It will get done and you won't get ripped off. A valve job is probably all you need. Owner of this shop is also a motorhome owner. Give them a call

Woodburn Automotive Repair Center (503) 981-8247

Linda S

Linda - I'll cancel my appt tomorrow at Foster and call the place you recommended. Thanks!

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1) curious who you bought this from - was it on ebay by chance? (they have a good program to reimburse for ripoffs - I know someone who bought a rialta off ebay - well it had delamination on the fiberglass exterior which essentially 'totaled" it -- well ebay paid off. Reason I am curious is whenever I check ebay there is someone from Portland (and nearby) who is selling toys - the ads looks the same but the name changes. I had a friend who lived in Portland go look at one of his toys - I felt the ad was quite misleading.

2) definetly get more info on your problem. I would want compression reading on the 6 cylinders- that can tell a lot right there. Before buying a new engine get the readings (yes you can do it yourself - a compression tester is inexpensive & if you can change a spark plug you can check compression).

3) After IDing the cylinder (if that is really the issue) I would go a little further by pressurizing the cylinder with compressed air (or nitrogen or whatever compressed non volatile gas I could find) to see where the leak(s) are. Most likely you will be able to hear air hissing out either the air intake (intake valve), tailpipe (exhaust valve) or at oil fill cap (ring blowby).

4) If it is valve - you are in luck as valve job is not nearly as bad as a new engine. You might even luck out & find that adjusting the valves fixes it (assuming the valve has not been burned)

5) another easy test is to pull sparkplugs one at a time with the engine running ( i would still want the compression readings on ALL cylinders) with the engine running (might want to pull them one at a time being careful not to damage the wires with the engine off & cold - if u have done the compression readings you will already have done this drill). This procedure will yield some info - if there is no change in how the engine runs when pulling one cylinder but there is on the other 5 - yes you probably IDed it. I suspect that you will find one that causes noticeably less change implying it was not working well when it was firing.

6) Understand that your problem could be something else - individual cylinders can run poorly for other reasons - like a bad plug wire, distributor cap, fuel injector etc.

7) If you are completely helpless with engines at least get another opinion. Some mechanics are reallyonly parts changers - and yes some are incompetent & some are ripoffs.

8) I would not change the engine to anything else - these are excellent engines. Used in 4 runner during the same years. Unless I had a different engine laying around I would not even consider getting cute by redesigning anything significant. FYI - the v6 does a fairly good job - I have had mine up to 12,000' & all over the rockies.

Great suggestions. The compressions in the other cylinders were great. Just #6 @ 20lbs. I contacted a place that was suggested in this thread, but they're saying expect $2,000. This is just really unfortunate.

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Hmm I seem to remember saying the burnt valve was usually on #6 cylinder. You got it home so drive it a little father and get it fixed right. This place in Woodburn is very skilled with Toyota motorhomes. Many on the Toyota camper site have gone to them and make the drive for all service. One guy drives from Seattle for service. It will get done and you won't get ripped off. A valve job is probably all you need. Owner of this shop is also a motorhome owner. Give them a call

Woodburn Automotive Repair Center (503) 981-8247

Linda S

Well, called them...and like everyone else they're saying expect $2,000 for a valve job. So I guess that's what I need to prepare for.

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Looks like that's that. However before they remove the head have them check the valve clearances on #6, like just in case you know.

Also do BOTH heads. Getting to the heads involves a lot of labor first, so don't be penny wise dollar foolish. Also also belts and a water pump are a really good idea at this time.

Well, called them...and like everyone else they're saying expect $2,000 for a valve job. So I guess that's what I need to prepare for.

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Well, called them...and like everyone else they're saying expect $2,000 for a valve job. So I guess that's what I need to prepare for.

Compared to $4500 for a complete rebuilt engine. Yes alot but it will be done right. Some people have paid close to that for just a valve clearence check. And yes as long as they are in there have the other regular maintance things taken care of. Then you won't have to worry about it for years

Linda S

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Looks like that's that. However before they remove the head have them check the valve clearances on #6, like just in case you know.

Also do BOTH heads. Getting to the heads involves a lot of labor first, so don't be penny wise dollar foolish. Also also belts and a water pump are a really good idea at this time.

Ugh...this is getting DEEP. Painful. But good suggestions. With 109k on it I should probably do the timing chain as well I suppose.

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Ugh...this is getting DEEP. Painful. But good suggestions. With 109k on it I should probably do the timing chain as well I suppose.

Yup. Your already paying the steep price to have it opened up. Fix everything while it's easy to get to

Linda S

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Ugh...this is getting DEEP. Painful. But good suggestions. With 109k on it I should probably do the timing chain as well I suppose.

No timing chain, the V6 has a timing belt with a 60,000 mi life span. In honesty yours is probably orginal and at 109K would be a short fused timebomb

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Hello, I am very sorry to hear about your predicament. I am near the Portland area and I would like to offer you another option I have had several 22re and 3.0 V6 vehicles, and while he may not be the cheapest, he is highly skilled when it comes to 80's and 90's Toyota's (they are all he works on) I have had allot of work done and referred several friends and have never heard a bad thing about the guy. His name is Micheal and he is located in rural LaCenter, WA. http://www.nwteamyota.com/

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Uhaul changed timing belts out at 90,000 miles along with the water pump.

I've put 140,000 miles on a timing belt. Twice, on my Toyota 4Runner. There are guys on the Yotatech site going beyond 150,000 miles.

The engines are non-interference. Belt breaks. Put on a new belt.

No timing chain, the V6 has a timing belt with a 60,000 mi life span. In honesty yours is probably orginal and at 109K would be a short fused timebomb

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It is not the the best way to do it, but you can remove the valve cover, pop out the shim put in the thinner shim (measure to find the right thickness) if it was not run long enough to burn the valve you may be lucky. This is not the best way but a cheap long shot all the other valves should be checked in thee same way. Recheck compression after to see if you have helped. Good luck

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It is not the the best way to do it, but you can remove the valve cover, pop out the shim put in the thinner shim (measure to find the right thickness) if it was not run long enough to burn the valve you may be lucky. This is not the best way but a cheap long shot all the other valves should be checked in thee same way. Recheck compression after to see if you have helped. Good luck

Thanks. She's going in tomorrow for the few week fix. I also noticed that distinctive Toyota 'ticking' noise. Unsure of whether it's the injectors or valves. I suppose I'm about to find out.

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