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Any advice on axle swapping anything other than the toyo 6 lug rear end? My 17' 5lug has blown a bearing and the diff is not in the best shape either. I've never been happy with the wimpy axle even though it is a smaller unit, it is still pushed to the max. So rather than rebuild the rear end, or just put in new bearings, I'm interested in other options for axles.

Thought maybe a Ford truck or Tacoma would be interesting, something with a heavier load capacity. I'd really like to stay away from the dual wheels if possible, but a full floating would be great obviously but single wheel. Ideally something that shared the 5 bolt pattern and I can just use my existing tires.

Could be up to 4 inches wider or so than the standard toyo axle... and I'm sure some fabrication would be needed for springs and the driveshaft, but all that is secondary to having something beefier.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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The Dana 8 lug from an 80's GM is the exact o/s to o/s (tire to tire) as the 5 lug dually Toyota. The spring perch would have to be flipped and rear driveshaft modified. GM made 15" 8 lug rims but you got to search for them. The final drive ratio is the same 4:10.

I was going to do this modification if and when my current axle fails.

This gives you two tires only on the rear. With a 1 ton rated axle.

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If your rig has lasted all that time with your little axle I don't think a full floater is absolutely needed. The axles from the v6 toyota trucks are 8 inch and the differential is little heavier duty and the 2wd models should have 5 lugs like yours. I'm pretty sure your wheels should fit right on. So that would be 89 to 93 pick up. 4x4 and 4runner will have 6 lugs so stick with the pick up only. Tons of them in junk yards everywhere.

Linda S

This axle should be 3 1/2 inches wider than yours. perfect

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Any advice on axle swapping anything other than the toyo 6 lug rear end? Thought maybe a Ford truck or Tacoma would be interesting, something with a heavier load capacity. I'd really like to stay away from the dual wheels if possible, but a full floating would be great obviously but single wheel. Ideally something that shared the 5 bolt pattern and I can just use my existing tires.

Could be up to 4 inches wider or so than the standard toyo axle... and I'm sure some fabrication would be needed for springs and the driveshaft, but all that is secondary to having something beefier.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

If you want more load capacity, you need either a full-floater or maybe a GM 14 bolt semi-floater. Other then those choices, you don't gain anything. There are plenty of semi-floaters with beefed up center-sections but that has noting to do with weight load capacity. Dana/Eaton full-floaters as used in Ford, Dodge, GM and even some Toyotas are good axles with a 8000 lb. load capacity, more or less. Depends if a Dana 50, 60,70, 70HD, etc. The dually Toyota is rated around 5000 lbs. The main problem is . . . if you want the ability to have rear wheels that match the front - using Toyota parts is the easiest way to go.

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Sorry to those who have tried to contact me... My chev axle, dually, utility, 1 ton conversion is complete. working welll with the new ratios (I can actually use the overdrive automatic setting on occasion}. The conversion took 3 weeks of planning, research and auto wrecker scouting. Two trips to the tire shop, and about 3000$ Canadian. Also 1 trip to the driveline specialist to have the chev driveshaft modified ( cut, joined, welded, balanced,to mate to the toyota transmission). I am a hobby mechanic, and with help from my brother, the actual work took about 22 hours. :help: Be advised, you may need inspection and or certification, and documentation of the swap for insurance and or registration purposes, depending on the laws and regulations in your state/ province. This may incure additional costs. My rear wheels no longer match my front. I don't carry a spare for the dually, but I check the tires regularily, and carry a pump and plug kit. I still carry the toyota spare for the front.... The chances of having 2 flats on one side of the dually set up is slim, check your unit regularilly.... BECAUSE I DID THE WORK MYSELF, i saved considerable money on labour costs.. If you have to pay a shop to do the work, :greedy: this is probably not feasible. I would do it again if I had to. the chev axle is reliable, so I never will have to. If you want details I can provide about a 40 step procedure, all the best. AS I SAID IN THE PAST, IF YOU ARE UNSURE OF THE AXLE UNDER THE TOYOTA, DO NOT BUY IT OR EVEN TEST DRIVE IT. I ALMOST KILLED PEOPLE WHEN MINE FAILED. DO YOUR RESEARCH FIRST.....ASK, ASK, ASK, :angry03: ...GET ANSWERS. :angry03: ..BE SURE! BE SAFE! :first: I now have 16 000 km travel on the swap, and am pleased :bye2: the motorhome is a 1985 Vanguard, 22re automatic that originally had the fake/garbage dual add on rim system that failed....

Edited by motorhomemikes
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Sorry to those who have tried to contact me... My chev axle, dually, utility, 1 ton conversion is complete. working welll with the new ratios (I can actually use the overdrive automatic setting on occasion}. The conversion took 3 weeks of planning, research and auto wrecker scouting. Two trips to the tire shop, and about 3000$ Canadian. Also 1 trip to the driveline specialist to have the chev driveshaft modified ( cut, joined, welded, balanced,to mate to the toyota transmission). I am a hobby mechanic, and with help from my brother, the actual work took about 22 hours. :help: Be advised, you may need inspection and or certification, and documentation of the swap for insurance and or registration purposes, depending on the laws and regulations in your state/ province. This may incure additional costs. My rear wheels no longer match my front. I don't carry a spare for the dually, but I check the tires regularily, and carry a pump and plug kit. I still carry the toyota spare for the front.... The chances of having 2 flats on one side of the dually set up is slim, check your unit regularilly.... BECAUSE I DID THE WORK MYSELF, i saved considerable money on labour costs.. If you have to pay a shop to do the work, :greedy: this is probably not feasible. I would do it again if I had to. the chev axle is reliable, so I never will have to. If you want details I can provide about a 40 step procedure, all the best. AS I SAID IN THE PAST, IF YOU ARE UNSURE OF THE AXLE UNDER THE TOYOTA, DO NOT BUY IT OR EVEN TEST DRIVE IT. I ALMOST KILLED PEOPLE WHEN MINE FAILED. DO YOUR RESEARCH FIRST.....ASK, ASK, ASK, :angry03: ...GET ANSWERS. :angry03: ..BE SURE! BE SAFE! :first: I now have 16 000 km travel on the swap, and am pleased :bye2: the motorhome is a 1985 Vanguard, 22re automatic that originally had the fake/garbage dual add on rim system that failed....

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Rebuild your axle for cheap. New toyota bearings, a used 3rd member any gear choice you want and new seals.

No reason to "reinvent the wheel" your axle is a hell of alot stronger than peIople think, a toyota diff. can handle upwards of 400-450 hp.... You arent going to approach point of failure with an RV, ever.

While "only a Toyota" dually axle, its full floater design is overbuilt for a toy RV.

Think about it like this, get a dana 60 full floater and its bearings (which is what is the MOST important item for load carrying capabilities) are just about the same size. Plus Toyota bearings are known for their superior heat treating over other bearings.

So why spend 3000 dollars to build something that you wont be able to buy off the shelf replacement parts for if you are on the road? That will only give you more down time if something fails/wearsout/breaks. Brake lines will need to be custom- both hydraulic and emergency brake lines, driveshaft would be a custom hybrid, 2 spares will be needed.

In my opinion for under 500 you can rebuild and regear an axle you have never heard of falure of other than lack of proper maintenance or abuse.

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Rebuild your axle for cheap. New toyota bearings, a used 3rd member any gear choice you want and new seals.

No reason to "reinvent the wheel" your axle is a hell of alot stronger than peIople think, a toyota diff. can handle upwards of 400-450 hp.... You arent going to approach point of failure with an RV, ever.

While "only a Toyota" dually axle, its full floater design is overbuilt for a toy RV.

Think about it like this, get a dana 60 full floater and its bearings (which is what is the MOST important item for load carrying capabilities) are just about the same size. Plus Toyota bearings are known for their superior heat treating over other bearings.

So why spend 3000 dollars to build something that you wont be able to buy off the shelf replacement parts for if you are on the road? That will only give you more down time if something fails/wearsout/breaks. Brake lines will need to be custom- both hydraulic and emergency brake lines, driveshaft would be a custom hybrid, 2 spares will be needed.

In my opinion for under 500 you can rebuild and regear an axle you have never heard of falure of other than lack of proper maintenance or abuse.

You might want to research that a little more the axles snap off right at the radius then you lose the wheel brake drum and the broken flange all nicely bolted together. 400-450 HP is a lot to ask from a 7 1/2 ring gear.

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Rebuild your axle for cheap. New toyota bearings, a used 3rd member any gear choice you want and new seals.

No reason to "reinvent the wheel" your axle is a hell of alot stronger than peIople think, a toyota diff. can handle upwards of 400-450 hp.... You arent going to approach point of failure with an RV, ever.

While "only a Toyota" dually axle, its full floater design is overbuilt for a toy RV.

Think about it like this, get a dana 60 full floater and its bearings (which is what is the MOST important item for load carrying capabilities) are just about the same size. Plus Toyota bearings are known for their superior heat treating over other bearings.

So why spend 3000 dollars to build something that you wont be able to buy off the shelf replacement parts for if you are on the road? That will only give you more down time if something fails/wearsout/breaks. Brake lines will need to be custom- both hydraulic and emergency brake lines, driveshaft would be a custom hybrid, 2 spares will be needed.

In my opinion for under 500 you can rebuild and regear an axle you have never heard of falure of other than lack of proper maintenance or abuse.

You lost me with your reasoning, or lack thereof. Horsepower and the integrity of the Hotchkiss center-section has nothing to do with the overload problems on Toyota RVs. The so-called "1/2 ton axle" has been tested at 5000 lbs. for brief intermittent use. Usually rated around 3000 lbs. for long-term use factoring in durability. Toyota ,GM S10 and full size GM K5 Blazer based RVs are well known for rear axle failures at the axle. I.e. an axle broken in half. The Toyota 1/2 ton axle has sealed ball bearings and axles roughly equivalent to what Ford used in F100 and F150 1/2 ton trucks.

I'll also note that I've never heard of Toyota making its own bearings or ordering them with special durabilty. No bearing in the world is going to make a semi-floater, weight-bearing axle in a Toyota 1/2 ton any more durable.

OEM duallies in my area, from Toyota are not hard to find. That partly due to the many U-Haul dually box trucks that reside in junkyards. A nice easy bolt in swap for 80s Toyotas and a bit more work in 70s vintage.

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  • 1 month later...

jdemaris, I'm curious about the u-haul dually box truck axles. I was just given an 85 escaper thats in pretty good shape, except for the "death axle" . haven't had any luck finding a 1 ton toyota axle locally. I did a CL search for old u-hauls but all seemed to be fords. did toyota make u-hauls as well ? or are you referring to the ford axle ? thanks

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jdemaris, I'm curious about the u-haul dually box truck axles. I was just given an 85 escaper thats in pretty good shape, except for the "death axle" . haven't had any luck finding a 1 ton toyota axle locally. I did a CL search for old u-hauls but all seemed to be fords. did toyota make u-hauls as well ? or are you referring to the ford axle ? thanks

Yes, I scrapped two of them this year. I recently had a guy from this forum come to my farm and I gave him the auto trans from an 87 for free. I think he was happy to get it His wife sat in my field reading a book while he yanked out the trans.

Last one - in the photo is a 1987 and not a U-haul. Just a Toyota dual-wheel box-truck with the FF rear. I know where there are two more that ARE from U-haul that I might buy. Problem is - they have scrap value of $400 and so it's hard to buy them any cheaper unless someone has one on their property and has no way to move it.

Nothing wrong with a Dana FF rear -but why bother?? A Toyota FF is plenty rugged enough, a bolt-in swap for many rigs, and lets you have matching front and rear wheels.

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post-6578-0-62818800-1377730791_thumb.jp

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A few more comments. I paid $450 for the 1987 in the photos. I later sold the aluminum box for $300. I gave the auto trans away to a couple on this forum . I saved the 22RE engine that needs a head gasket. I saved the interior and windshield, springs, FF rear, and HD front hubs. I sold the remaining scrap for around $100. So if my time isn't worth anything of cash value - I figure I got the FF rear along with 7 rims and matching HD front hubs almost for free.

I put the FF rear along with the rear stablizer bar, and the front 6 lug hubs into my 1978 Chinook. So my little Chinook now has a FF dually and one spare tire fits front or back.

Only slight regret is this.. I offered that auto trans to the couple free of charge because #1 they needed it, and # 2, I figured I'd never want it for any of my stuff. Now - I've got an 88 Minicruiser with auto trans and wish I had a spare trans laying around. Oh well.

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Derek good to hear from you and yes i very well rember the toyota U Haul trucks here in the states

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  • 6 years later...

Just bought a Toyota huntsman mini RV and it seems to have the 1/2 ton rear axle with these stupid dully tires mounted on one double rim wheel 

is this the recalled axle ?

I just learned about this axle recall

the vin has no recall but they only list recalls for 15 years

who can help me with info ?

Or a good used 1 ton axle ?

Edited by Aiksas
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1 hour ago, Aiksas said:

Just bought a Toyota huntsman mini RV ...

is this the recalled axle ?

The Axle Recall was issued in 1991 to those manufacturers who were still in business. If Huntsman hadn't closed it's doors, they would have been sent the papers as well. Here is the Dolphin/Seabreeze documentation.  All those fitted with aftermarket dual rear wheels were included. No mention of length or weight. Or 'heavy duty' 5 lug axles that weren't recalled. :)

National Axle Recall RC-91V060-NN.PDF

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Hey Aiksas!

Welcome but it would help to know what year your Huntsman is....85 or older you are going to want to address it!

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  • 2 years later...
On 7/11/2013 at 4:59 PM, motorhomemikes said:
On 7/11/2013 at 12:24 PM, motorhomemikes said:

Sorry to those who have tried to contact me... My chev axle, dually, utility, 1 ton conversion is complete. working welll with the new ratios (I can actually use the overdrive automatic setting on occasion}. The conversion took 3 weeks of planning, research and auto wrecker scouting. Two trips to the tire shop, and about 3000$ Canadian. Also 1 trip to the driveline specialist to have the chev driveshaft modified ( cut, joined, welded, balanced,to mate to the toyota transmission). I am a hobby mechanic, and with help from my brother, the actual work took about 22 hours. :help: Be advised, you may need inspection and or certification, and documentation of the swap for insurance and or registration purposes, depending on the laws and regulations in your state/ province. This may incure additional costs. My rear wheels no longer match my front. I don't carry a spare for the dually, but I check the tires regularily, and carry a pump and plug kit. I still carry the toyota spare for the front.... The chances of having 2 flats on one side of the dually set up is slim, check your unit regularilly.... BECAUSE I DID THE WORK MYSELF, i saved considerable money on labour costs.. If you have to pay a shop to do the work, :greedy: this is probably not feasible. I would do it again if I had to. the chev axle is reliable, so I never will have to. If you want details I can provide about a 40 step procedure, all the best. AS I SAID IN THE PAST, IF YOU ARE UNSURE OF THE AXLE UNDER THE TOYOTA, DO NOT BUY IT OR EVEN TEST DRIVE IT. I ALMOST KILLED PEOPLE WHEN MINE FAILED. DO YOUR RESEARCH FIRST.....ASK, ASK, ASK, :angry03: ...GET ANSWERS. :angry03: ..BE SURE! BE SAFE! :first: I now have 16 000 km travel on the swap, and am pleased :bye2: the motorhome is a 1985 Vanguard, 22re automatic that originally had the fake/garbage dual add on rim system that failed....

Hey Mike, any chance you still have that 40 point procedure info available regarding the rear axle swap you undertook? Nearly a decade has gone by so the 6 lug toy full floaters are becoming increasingly rare and costly. My 85 Dolphin has the cookie, and it's the one thing that has me concerned; other than that, she's got 45k my, had extensive damage from small leaks left for long periods. So, with a capable rear, I will have zero doubt as to the vehicle's reliability.

Thank you!

Nick

Ntah81@gmail.com

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Oh, no need to insert email address I guess. It's different from the email to this account, but either is fine,.

THANK YOU!

NICK

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That member has not visited this site since 2013. Installing a full floater in an 85 is not too difficult. You might only need bigger U bolts for the bigger axle shafts. Everything else should fit. frame same width, you have offset shocks so no new shock mounts. 

Give this place a call. They might have an axle. Or not lots of these listings are old but it's worth a try. 200 miles from you would be considered close

If they have the axle ask them if they still have the wheels. You need those too. Oh and don't drive that far unless they take a pic of the outside of the hub. Needs to bump out like a full floater should. 

Linda S

A1 Used Auto and Truck Parts

1280 State Road 207
Saint AugustineFL 32086
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