capenteah Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I have a 1984 Toyota Granville I would like to strip all of the outside sheeting off re frame and attach 1/4inch Luan and then fiberglass the entire shell one piece is there any problem with doing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Hey, Didn't I just see you in VA Beach??? John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 capenteah, Sounds like you've outlined quite a job for yourself. What you're describing is a fairly big and expensive job. If you use epoxy resin for the cloth, at $40 to $60 a gallon, you'd have several hundred dollars just in resin alone. Polyester resin just doesn't adhere very well to plywood so epoxy would probably be your only choice. Then there's the lumber for the framing, lots of fastenings and the plywood. Are you stuck on luan plywood? Luan is a type of wood, not a type of plywood. There might be better options for the plywood such as 1/8 " door skins or regular 1/4" fir plywood. You'd also need quite a buildup of cloth and mat to get enough strength to prevent the sides from flexing and cracking. Then there's the sanding after the epoxy has set up... Also, the final, outside coat would need to be gel coat, although several coats of paint would do. The gel coat or paint is needed to prevent the epoxy and cloth from degrading in sunlight, which it will do without something over it. Anyway, its something to think about. If you decide to do the job, be sure and post progress reports with photos here. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86rader Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Sounds like an awful lot of work and expense. I think a better option would be to use sheets of the stuff they use now for smooth sided campers. Forget what it is called. Glass over all the seams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 I think reskinning is a BIG job. I had a friend who bought a Rialta off ebay. he traveled to pick it up & noticed some bubbles in the skin. Went by an rv shop he was familiar with -- long story short the unit was totaled. Ebay buyer protection paid off. When I say totaled, even though the unit was useable as is, to make it right would cost more then what it was worth. Not familiar with what your siding is - if it is like an old trailer (metal in sections) you might be able to remove it. If it was me & I did not like it I would sell to someone who would like it & buy a newer unit in better condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capenteah Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 Yes waiter I just saw you in Virginia Beach as you know and to let everyone else know I only paid seven hundred and seventy seven dollars for the motorhome 73,000 original miles the sides are pretty rough and roof is terrible I would imagine quite a bit of the framing is rotted out all the problems seem to start at the seems and the bullet proof Sunraders are complete fiberglass shells I was trying to think of a way to make mine a fiberglass shell so that I can get many more years of use out of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capenteah Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 Yes waiter I just saw you in Virginia Beach as you know and to let everyone else know I only paid seven hundred and seventy seven dollars for the motorhome 73,000 original miles the sides are pretty rough and roof is terrible I would imagine quite a bit of the framing is rotted out all the problems seem to start at the seems and the bullet proof Sunraders are complete fiberglass shells I was trying to think of a way to make mine a fiberglass shell that wont leak so that I can get many more years of use out of it. besides I got it for so cheap I should be able to put a couple grand and some sweat and make it a - Motorhome that will last the rest of my life and maybe my daughters if I keep up with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snail powered Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Yes waiter I just saw you in Virginia Beach as you know and to let everyone else know I only paid seven hundred and seventy seven dollars for the motorhome 73,000 original miles the sides are pretty rough and roof is terrible I would imagine quite a bit of the framing is rotted out all the problems seem to start at the seems and the bullet proof Sunraders are complete fiberglass shells I was trying to think of a way to make mine a fiberglass shell that wont leak so that I can get many more years of use out of it. besides I got it for so cheap I should be able to put a couple grand and some sweat and make it a - Motorhome that will last the rest of my life and maybe my daughters if I keep up with itLuan plywood is not rot resistant, it is certainly not a lifetime material. Any void in the fiberglass, any leak from the roof vent or window frames and you will quickly have a delaminating mess on your hands. Another issue with what you are proposing is the weight of the project. You are going to have the framing structure, plus the plywood, plus the fiberglass layer too. On a Sunrader you have a lightweight molded fiberglass shell that is thin enough to see daylight through and it has very minimal framing inside, basically just enough framing to barely hold up the wall and ceiling panels. The key to a lifetime motorhome is doing the annual maintenance to a high professional standard with quality materials. Don't ever slack off and do a half behind job of it or skip doing it. True even for a Sunrader as they are far from being bullet proof and leak proof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Good meeting you in VA Beach. Yah, For $700, you can do anything you want. AND, if worst comes to worst, you could probably even part it out and make money (rear axle with wheels could go for $500 alone.I'd look carefully at the materials cost, if it starts getting above $1000, it might be money better spent looking for something with better "bones" I seen the roof sections, it is rough. I'm not sure how I would tackle the sides.Before you tie up a lot of time, I would look at the cost of materials that you need, To do a complete repair may cost $1000 -$2000 in materials alone, At that point, its a matter of making a decision to just do whats necessary to keep the water out of it for now, or do the restoration. On restoration with the standard materials, might require a complete teardown, roof sides and all, OR do ikt in sections, maybe 4 ft sections, Rip out a section 4 ft wide, replace the frame wood (1x2) reglue the exterior skin to the new frame and insulation, then glue the new inner skin to the frame and insulation. the insulation is part of the structure, glue the skins to it. Also you may want to replace the insulation with the urethane board material you can buy at bog box home improvement, it some in 4 x 8 sheets and has aluminized film on both sides. You can also make the new walls a little taller, say 4 inches, but remember, you'll need to come up with a way to cover that 4 inches on the outside. Take photos as you go. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capenteah Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 so a little research in for less than $1000 I can cover the coach with epoxy resin and cloth the entire coach I got a buddy that can get me some paint and I gotta get a bunch of fasteners so figure 1500 total and I can have an entirely new shell why would that be such a bad thing bones can be fixed waiter just takes a little surgery I don't know what it is but I've never been able to buy something and throw it away when its ran its course and go buy another one kinda into fixing up old stuff I went through and replaced the brakes brake hardware wheel cylinders drums bearings seals for the rear axles front axles went ahead and replaced the carburetor with the Weber 32/36 did the plugs wires cap rotor PCV valve fuel filter transmission oil change rear differential oil change motor oil change with ZDDP additive radiator flush and fill thermostat upper lower radiator hose new fan clutch oil pan filter valve cover gasket new KYB monotube gas adjust shocks put a working radio in it new coach battery new grey water and black water blade valves and I'm just getting started by the way I have the stock carburetor air cleaner and a bunch of a missions control items if anybody should need them contact me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Well after all your work I would be worried that such an unconventional exterior might make it very hard so sell should you ever want to. No way working from the outside are you ever going to get the smooth look of a shell made in a mold like the Sunrader. Rv siding and roofing can be bought and give you what would look like a much newer motorhome. http://www.all-rite.com/siding-c-30.html?osCsid=15aa4c989ead43aa1b5b7131d433a475 Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capenteah Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 you don't think I'd be able to get it smooth I figured after a couple of coats and some sanding a little bit the filler I should be able to do a pretty good job I mean I've seen people build canoes and their smooth and beautiful why would I not be able to do that ? just being curious not trying to be a smart alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snail powered Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 What kind of cloth and in what combination for how many layers are you planning on doing? Layer of matting plus layer of woven? West Systems has a good free publication on building with fiberglass over substrates for boats. Your price quote seems very optimistic based on what I just spent for materials to fill just a few cutouts from the old fridge vents. But then again I was not using Home Depot's stuff, I was purchasing from a large fiberglass supplier who is used by the local marine trade industry. One thing to note, you can't do sharp corners in fiberglass work. Look at any boat or fiberglass RV and you will see larger radius not sharp 90 degree plywood intersections. How do you plan to handle that in your design along the upper edge at the roof and along the vertical corners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I've also got a lot of glass experience. I built this from scratch.www.iflyez.com Anyway, could probably build an entire new shell, use the windows, appliances, etc out of the original. I use this supplier a lot:http://www.uscomposites.com/cloth.htmlThe cloth I use is similiar to the 7725 Bi-directional and Uni-directional, runs about $800 for a spool of 125 yards John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Just for grins go to Lowes and look at piece of FRP in the bath section. Self finishing and with a lap joint no leaks. Also go to www.hookedupfilms.com and scroll down to HUF adventure vehicle. John Mc will understand their problems and solutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capenteah Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 Aeromarine six gal kit 348 60 yds 6 oz fabric 380 I was told by the folks over there that that would be more than enough to cover the entire unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Thanks for reminding me about that foam based camper. I was trying to tell someone about it the other day and I couldn't for the life of me remember where I saw it. Functions just like the very expensive XP camper but super nice home job. Bet it's super light too Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Has anyone done a thread with showing the fiberglassing? I would love to cover the curved windows in my Sunradar. I have seen this mentioned on the site, but I have not seen anyone do it with the pictures. Has this been done by any of the members?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Click this link, scroll down to the 23 Dec 2006 - Engine Cowling - Foam plug The entries go from newest to oldestRather than use foam, you could use something like very thin sheet metal that will bend the large radius curve,use Bondo to glue th esheet metal in place from the inside, do the fiberglass on the outside, then pop the sheet metal off. I'd use four layers of glass. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snail powered Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Has anyone done a thread with showing the fiberglassing? I would love to cover the curved windows in my Sunradar. I have seen this mentioned on the site, but I have not seen anyone do it with the pictures. Has this been done by any of the members?? While this forum is a big help on many things it is not the best place to learn the step by step process of doing fiberglass work. It takes a lot of time to create a tutorial of that type and this forum is not user friendly to posting that kind of information. Not the fault of the members, just the software the forum is based on. It is not surprising that you won't find a step by step tutorial for this. There is no time to take photographs yourself when you are in the middle of a fiberglass job. It would only be possible if you had a photographer standing next to you to document the whole build. Then someone would have to write it all up. But that is unlikely as they will be on to the next chore on their motorhome I recommend that first you decide on what brand of resin you are going to use for the job. Then go to the website for that particular brand and start reading and watching their videos. That is where you will learn all the technical parts of the process of the materials you are going to be working with. Putting on a backing material is of course important. But you have to be fully prepared to have all the tools and supplies right there when you need them as you need them. You also have to understand which of the products is needed for your type of application and each step needed and how long you have to complete it. You need to know the cure rates and when you can put another layer on. There is more than one type of resin from the same company. Laminating resins which are good for building up the layer but leave a sticky surface. Resins which harden but have a wax that comes to the surface to help it cure. Then there are the various kinds of gel coats. One type is for using inside a mold where it does not get exposed to air. Other types which can be brushed on a surface that is exposed to air such as the outside of a motorhome. What you are dealing with is basically a system of products that work together. You will have to be sure you match it all up, that is where the website for the product company will put you on the right path. Download their instruction sheets, watch their videos too. You also need to know how to prepare the surface of the area you are going to be building on top of. How to bevel back the edges, how to clean it and of course how to create that backer surface piece to build up off of and how to keep it fastened in place while you work. Who knows maybe you will be the one to create the step by step tutorial on this project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 I did not read through all the posts but as I understand the construction of RV wall, everything is a sandwich construction. 1/4 inch luan on both sides with the framing and foam insulation in the center. Everything is assembled on a flat table. The luan is glued to the framing and foam and pressure is applied for many hours until set. This creates a solid rigid structure. A template (guessing here) is laid over the assembled wall and the openings are cut out. The gluing is what creates the strength of the wall and keeps things real light in weight. The floor and ceiling are built the same way then all is assembled. Any how, just my input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snail powered Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 I did not read through all the posts but as I understand the construction of RV wall, everything is a sandwich construction. 1/4 inch luan on both sides with the framing and foam insulation in the center. Everything is assembled on a flat table. The luan is glued to the framing and foam and pressure is applied for many hours until set. This creates a solid rigid structure. A template (guessing here) is laid over the assembled wall and the openings are cut out. The gluing is what creates the strength of the wall and keeps things real light in weight. The floor and ceiling are built the same way then all is assembled. Any how, just my input. No Greg, that is not how a Sunrader is constructed. The shell is composed only of fiberglass that was laid up inside of a two piece mold. There is foam and plywood that was adhered in as a sanwich against the inside of the roof but that was added on after the shell was fabricated. There is no sandwich construction in the area of the large front over-cab windows. It is not an easy fix to fill the windows in. Not only is there the curved radius at the two side corners there is also a change in the surface just below the windows when they come around from the front to the side. If it is a 1982 or earlier Sunrader the area right above the window opening will also begin curving up into the roof within less than 1 inch. On that vintage of Sunrader the window gasket barely has room to touch on a flat surface before the curve begins. Being the owner of a Sunrader I have given some consideration to how I would approach the issue of filling in the windows if I were to approach the work by making the repair from the outside with backer panels on the inside of the motorhome. First step is of course to remove the windows and bevel the edges of the openings as is described in most fiberglass repair procedures. I would not use metal or plywood as a backer. My backing panels would be made of fiberglass. On the flat areas I would use a pre-made fiberglass panel. For the short curved sections at the corner I would lay up my own backer panel and trim it to fit between the flat panels. You can use the window you remove to help create the mold for that work. You will have to extend the length approx 1" beyond that of the window surface top and bottom but that is not an impossible job to do with a bit of sheet metal or flexible lexan. You will need to make your corner sections extend to the flat area a couple of inches further than the radius. Then bevel the vertical edges where the flat panels and corner overlap. A beveled join is much stronger and easier to match up that a butt join. Those fiberglass panel backing pieces are then bonded to the inside surface surrounding the inside of the window opening with thickened resin. If need be you can drill a few holes through the edge of the window opening and on through the panel securing them temporarily in place with some nylon screws and washers. Once the thick filler has bonded you can remove the nylon screws and do the next step. That step is to put Fiberglass cloth over the edges of the panels on the inside of the rig to further strengthen the joint. Don't forget to radius all the edges of the backer panels, fiberglass cloth does not make sharp bends, it needs a radius to ride over. Once the backer panels are secured in place start building up the layers on the outside. It might be that someday I will need to fill in the window opening but for now my windows are not leaking and I enjoy the light that comes in through them. So I have patched up the little cracks in my windows and will put it off for another day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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