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Thanks Derek, 

I've done some calling and have located a 1986 1 ton Rear Axle Assembly - Toyota Truck, Off a Dolphin with ~ 36K, full floating for $1250 delivered to my door and another  ’87 1 ton rear axle assembly, full floating with 68K = $1500 about  2 hr. drive from me to pick up. They both appear to have a 3.90 gear ratio.  As I mentioned, just above Derek's entry, I've got an '81, 3/4 ton Toyota Dolphin that I'm trying to determine the ratio for - any body know?  I've checked the owners manual cover to cover and it doesn't mention it.  

If I have a match the next big question is what mechanical accommodation or modification will it take to mount an '86 or '87 axle assembly on an '81 chassis and might that also include a drive shaft change?  

or 

would it be possible, cheaper, easier, to buy 1 ton axle shafts with their bearings, seals, lugs, nuts, keeper springs, etc and go that route? (? number of splines on the axle shaft in my '81, 3/4 ton?)  If I go this route then aren't I obliged to redo all my braking system and incur all those expenses as well?   Ugh what to do????

Any body done it?  either way? or even another way?  

Thanks for considering my dilemma

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8 minutes ago, KirkGray said:

Thanks Derek, 

I've done some calling and have located a 1986 1 ton Rear Axle Assembly - Toyota Truck, Off a Dolphin with ~ 36K, full floating for $1250 delivered to my door and another  ’87 1 ton rear axle assembly, full floating with 68K = $1500 about  2 hr. drive from me to pick up. They both appear to have a 3.90 gear ratio.  As I mentioned, just above Derek's entry, I've got an '81, 3/4 ton Toyota Dolphin that I'm trying to determine the ratio for - any body know?  I've checked the owners manual cover to cover and it doesn't mention it.  

If I have a match the next big question is what mechanical accommodation or modification will it take to mount an '86 or '87 axle assembly on an '81 chassis and might that also include a drive shaft change?  

or 

would it be possible, cheaper, easier, to buy 1 ton axle shafts with their bearings, seals, lugs, nuts, keeper springs, etc and go that route? (? number of splines on the axle shaft in my '81, 3/4 ton?)  If I go this route then aren't I obliged to redo all my braking system and incur all those expenses as well?   Ugh what to do????

Any body done it?  either way? or even another way?  

Thanks for considering my dilemma

If you have the GO82 axle (check mfg. plate under the hood) the ratio is 4.10. Last time I searched, those axle shafts are no longer made. And you would still have a “foolie “.

Edited by fred heath
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Thank you Fred,  

I checked under the hood and it only has the catalytic converter info stickers. There is a metal plate on the passenger side of the engine compartment with:  Model RN44L-KDA;   C/TR/A/TM  033ZJ41G082L48 along with the VIN and 2366 cc / cub. inch. 144.4 #s.  I've heard the 4.10 ratio batted about and was just told that from about '78 - '83, Toyota put the 4x4 differentials in their 3/4 ton trucks.  That's what I have so its been suggested taking the differential out of my assembly and placing it in his assembly with full floating bearing arrangements and it'll work.  Hesaid that he'd mark it down as well.  I'm wondering about the back 1/2 of the drive shaft and whether it's length'll be OK?     How would I determine if I have the CO82 axle since the mfg plate doesn't say. I've also checked in the cab with no luck.    

I plead ignorant - what is a "foolie"  = ? did I get "fooled" into buying a rig with this problem?  If so, I guess I am a "foolie", but still gotta deal with it.  

Any (more) help you can offer will be gratefully received from you Fred or other forum attendees.  

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Foolie = FAKE dually. The foolie has 2 bearings in each side of the rear axle. The axle housing and the wheel are designed to carry the load centered on the outboard bearing. The axle shaft has to carry the load and transmit the power to the wheels. When the extra foolie rim is added outboard of the factory wheel the load is not centered on the bearing. The new load center is about 4" from the bearing, this causes the axle to flex while it turns. After awhile metal fatigue sets in and the axle breaks and the wheel and brake drum comes off. Now your driving on 3 wheels with only 1/2 your brakes. This is not good.

The real dually (1 ton) has 3 bearings on each side. The axle housing and hub are designed to carry the load centered between the 2 outboard bearings. The wheels have centers that are radically offset. When they are bolted face to face the load is centered between the 2 rims and the hub twin bearings. The hub and axle housing carry the load. The axle shaft ONLY transmits the power. In the rare event, the axle shaft breaks the wheels stay attached.

So you didn't get "foolied"

Edited by WME
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What a GREAT explanation of "foolie".  Now I understand better the (mechanical) floating concept as well as the root(s) of the word.  Thank you for taking time to inform me and other's as well. 

and 

Derek - Thank you as well for the decoding of the coding  of the axle type.  

 

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5 hours ago, KirkGray said:

Thank you Fred,  

I checked under the hood and it only has the catalytic converter info stickers. There is a metal plate on the passenger side of the engine compartment with:  Model RN44L-KDA;   C/TR/A/TM  033ZJ41G082L48 along with the VIN and 2366 cc / cub. inch. 144.4 #s.  I've heard the 4.10 ratio batted about and was just told that from about '78 - '83, Toyota put the 4x4 differentials in their 3/4 ton trucks.  That's what I have so its been suggested taking the differential out of my assembly and placing it in his assembly with full floating bearing arrangements and it'll work.  Hesaid that he'd mark it down as well.  I'm wondering about the back 1/2 of the drive shaft and whether it's length'll be OK?     How would I determine if I have the CO82 axle since the mfg plate doesn't say. I've also checked in the cab with no luck.    

I plead ignorant - what is a "foolie"  = ? did I get "fooled" into buying a rig with this problem?  If so, I guess I am a "foolie", but still gotta deal with it.  

Any (more) help you can offer will be gratefully received from you Fred or other forum attendees.  

The plate should be attached to drivers side inner fender and look like this. The “GO82” will be pronounced. 

BC2B1986-4CB2-4BD6-BD99-D0662C270965.jpeg

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Hey Fred - Got it  ! ! ! !  My plate is not as well organized as your plate but from other research I've been able to identify the G082 sequence buried in other #s.  

I've got a bead on an '86 4x4 axle with the 4.10 ratio, full floating bearings with only 32K on it that I'm hoping will fit in the place of my current '81 4x4 foolie.  I'll use my differential in his assembly and save some $.  Now my question is, will the drive shaft be the proper length, will the sway bar and braking hoses and cables marry with what I currently have on the '81?  Any thoughts or experience on these themes and their solutions if they arise along with any other variables that I'm not factoring in?

I'm running 215-75-R14's on the 5 lug dualies rims that'll have to be changed out .  II'll need to match the rims with the axles and see what tires they call for re: tire size with the 6 lug axles.  Any recommendations?  

Feels like I'm working toward a solution of finding the materials however I know assembly and installation are another  phase of this venture.  

Good Day ! ! 

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Show us a picture of the 4x4 axle...They are not full floater axles.

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Hey Derek, I "mis-wrote" - below are the photos of the Toyota '86, 1 ton, 2x4, full floating that can accommodate the 4.10 differential that I have in my  original 3/4 ton foolie that started this sauga.   

We've measured the inside to inside and outside to outside spring perches and the spring mounting plates on each others axles and they match. 

He has 2 rims but, I need 2 more  - 7 1/4" lug pattern (center to center cross wise),  wheel is 14x5 and I will also need 12 reverse thread lug nuts.  Anyone have any of these that want to make room for something else to store?  (anyone need 2 - 5 lug  duall rims?

IMG_6076 (1).jpg

IMG_6077.jpg

IMG_6075.jpg

IMG_6082.jpg

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OK, I'll confirm that the LH threads are only on the drivers side and then begin to look for the RH threaded studs (6 of them). 

I'm having some difficulty finding another 2 rims to match the 2 rims that the yard has that are 14x5.  I was thinking, if I went up on the rim size it may be easier to find 4 of them instead of 2 more of the dinosaur rims and the tires for the larger rims may be easier to find as well.  How much larger of a rim could I go ?

When it comes to tires, what's the recommended number of belts to have, or what features shall I emphasize other than the fact that they'll be carrying the Dolphin (4650 GVW).  One fellow said that I'd ought to have something in the LT ("light truck") line meant for heavier weights. 

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Derek, You're  Awesome, and so very generous with your knowledge & experience. 

Thank you for your time as well.

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  • 1 month later...

Hello folks, I made it to page 14 of this thread....

I just bought a 1981 Free Wheeler motor home, a standard 2wd model. Made in Chipman Alberta - not far from where I'm from. Another Canadian low production model. I have five bolt single wheels. My plan is to confirm the weights, get the axles x ray'd and replace the wheel bearings and get some D rated 185s on it.  Sound good? It's actually 16ft 4 inches bumper to bumper. Anything else I can do so I can relax when on the mountain road?  I got my wife and little guy in it.

 

 Freewheeler.png.0f052b1cf5cfaff0640d5f4aee98fb94.png

 

 

IMG_2126.JPG.a511eac7de2a1373cf0581026ba4ea72.JPG

 

IMG_20190425_194532.jpg.4d9d9ea33dd116146e6eb91742dbc294.jpg

 

IMG_20190425_194527.jpg.da11478950e0d19c2354551a10d9112a.jpg

 

 
 
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Toyota still makes the wheel bearings but they are 68 bucks a pop for the rear

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~bearing~for~rear~axle~shaft~97144-06308.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Pickup&Year=1981&Submodel=&Filter=()&Location=rear-axle-shaft-hub,,42311C

Here are some more reasonable prices for after market from Rock Auto

MEVOTECH H511021 {#9036340020, 9714406308} Info
Category: Wheel Bearing
 
 
 
  Part image  
$22.99  
 
BECK/ARNLEY 0513350 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info
Category: Wheel Bearing
 
 
 
<
Part image
>
$24.79  
 
TIMKEN RW130R {#9036340020, 903634002077, 9714406308} Info
Category: Wheel Bearing
 
 
 
 
Linda S
 
$47.79  
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Most popular tires are the Hankook RA18 tires. Don't know what's available in Canada so you might have to start calling and find a supplier. They are available from Amazon though and shipping to Canada is probably available

Linda S

This is an actual snow tire. Only one available now that I know of. For years there weren't any in our size and load range

https://www.tires-easy.com/185-14/hercules-tires/hsi-s/tirecode/78388

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I've got the SKF bearings in my cart along with inner and outer seals. Anything else I should add rear end related before I press the purchase button?  I'll be calling the shops tomorrow to get five Hankook RA18 tires. 

 

 
 
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7 hours ago, x-wind said:

I've got he SKF bearings in my cart along with inner and outer seals. Anything else I should add rear end related before I press the purchase button?  I'll be calling the shops tomorrow to get five Hankook RA18 tires. 

 

 
 

Word of caution. When pressing the old bearings off the shaft there is a small snap ring inboard of the bearing on the axle shaft. It’s usually covered in grease, so difficult to see. This must be removed first before pressing as you’ll need it for reassembly with the new bearings. 

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I just purchased these tires (Forceum 185 R14 C8PR 102/100P - EPTYRES.com) for my rebuild of a 1981 Toyota  Dolphin. I put a 1 ton full floating axle that I found from a 1986 Dolphin that they crushed but kept the axle out. I found two 6 lug, 14x5 wheels with a 7 3/4” lug distance when measured across in New Jersey two rims in Michigan and one came with the axle for the spare. I got my rear seals from the Toyota dealership.  Had to have new U bolts made because the 3/4 ton axle assembly that came with the rig has a smaller diameter and I added 2 more leaves to my stack to give me more lift. 
The hard parts where is the perch plates (that didn’t come with the axle assembly) for the U bolts and the shocks. A friend and I had to fabricate them using Chevy perch’s that had the right U bolt separation.
Hoping to mount these perch’s and shocks tomorrow, fill the brake system and get this rig off the blocks and rollin’ again. 
** What air pressure do you all recommend for these tires? I have a model 500 Dolphin.
 
Sent from my iPhone
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I'm replacing bearings, seals and shocks on my motorhome but looking down the road am thinking I should convert to a full floating axle.

Derek I think it was you that posted a bunch of pages back with a link for a company that sells parts to convert a semi floating axle to a full one.   Do you or anyone have experience doing this?  

https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/full-floater-conversion/

I'm going tlllllo find a solid front axle toyota from a 4x4 and use the parts from the front spindles outward on my motorhomes rear end and get this kit. Perhaps I'll have to get a center section so the spindle count is the same? Not sure if that centre section would fit in my diff though. If anyone has any comments on this method id appreciate it.

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 3/20/2019 at 12:58 AM, KirkGray said:

I bought my '81 Dolphin Model 500 (the one with the big rear window) without knowing or being informed of the axle issue (by the seller).  It's got only 55 K on it, all the facilities work in the RV, the gas gauge is the only thing that doesn't work.  I am re-arching the leaf springs, adding 2 more leaves and changing out the shocks at the moment because it was riding a bit low.  I've read the axle article a couple times now and have checked the national recall site and my vehicle has no recall on record.  I went to the Toyota dealership to see if I could get some more information about the vehicle and maybe some part numbers and they said that the vehicle is referred to as "Heavy Duty" .  The vehicle owners manual states that there was a 1/2 ton and a 3/4 ton manufactured.  The leaf stack have 8 in it and the GVW is 4650 = corresponding to the 3/4 ton. 

Is the article referring to both the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton vehicle or just the 1/2 ton? 

How reliable is the National recall site?  If they note that the vehicle has no recall history does it mean that I'm OK and do not need to replace the axles?

If new axles are needed any recommendations on who to get them from?  I'd imagine getting the axle shafts with all the bearings, seals, lugs, nuts ... would be the best way to order.  I've been asked if I have a 27 or a 30 spline shaft.  I suppose I'll need to take it out to determine which I have, to order.  Would the number of splines indicate whether the shaft is adequate (3/4 ton vs. the 1/2 ton)?

Hope I haven't asked too many questions but I'm uncertain on what to do.   A lot of facts, unanswered details, some conflicting info and I'm not a master mechanic. 

Thanks for any guidance and advice.  

HI

I WAS ABLE TO GET THE REAR AXLE COMPLETE with to4sion bar, ( same spline)

The front spindles, tables, calipers etc for 500$usd I picked myself in NC.

It took 15 hours to install front spindles, hubs and rotors, rear axle with new welded torsion bar brackets, new handbrake front to rear, new gas tank.(350$ cdn)

All told with my gas to go to NC bushings and seals. (Bearings were ok)  about 2500cdn$

 

 

 

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On 5/3/2019 at 1:22 PM, Derek up North said:

Start with 50psi and then adjust to suit!

Question for you Derek up North...

I am about 15 minutes away from Lachute Qc. Which front shocks would you recommend and is there a particular place you would purchase them from?

Right now I'm looking at  these.

Bilstein 24-184830 - 46mm Monotube Shock Absorber (4600 Series)    
 

1985 / TOYOTA / PICKUP BASE

Engine Size
    2.4L L4 GAS
Drivewheel
    Rear Wheel Drive
Rear Wheels
    Dual Rear Wheels

    CAD$118.10            N/A     CAD$236.20

Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!

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  • 5 weeks later...

Do you know if bilstein 4600's from 2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD,  would be a good fit?  

Edited by ModocMade
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  • 9 months later...

Hi Everyone,

 

I am looking at purchasing a 1986 Sunrader and am having trouble verifying if it has the full floating axle, I am guessing it does since on this forum says '86 and later should, but am wondering if anyone could help me verify or give me tips on how I can tell for myself. It does have 6 lug nuts on the back tires from what I can see in the photos, I asked the seller about the axle and he seemed to genuinely not know what I was talking about. I am very new to this and would appreciate any help or advice you can give. Thank you for your time. 

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Screen Shot 2020-04-24 at 12.08.49 PM.png

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