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Ok, makes sense!

Today I found a 1988 complete full floating dually rearend assembly. The wheels are 14" in diameter. I am buying 4 of them for right now at $75 bucks a pop. However, it doesn't come with tires.

Do you know if my current 185R-14C tires would fit the new wheels....or would I have to get a new set?

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Are you buying the axle too, cause those wheels won't fit your lug pattern. If you go with single wheels you just need to buy regular Toyota 14 inch truck wheel with the 5 lug center and yes your tires will fit those wheels. Needs to be from a 2wd truck not 4x4

Linda S

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Today I found a 1988 complete full floating dually rearend assembly. The wheels are 14" in diameter. I am buying 4 of them for right now at $75 bucks a pop. However, it doesn't come with tires.

Do you know if my current 185R-14C tires would fit the new wheels....or would I have to get a new set?

Yes, 14" is 14". Any 14" tire can go on any 14" rim but the widths must be a match for the tire to have the correct profile when mounted. The 6 lug 7.25" wheels on the full-floater are the same width as the 5 lug wheels on the semi-floaters.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ran into a big problem. My mechanic called and said the rear axle assembly does not fit under my 1978 rig. I bought a 1988 rear axle but it did not come with leaf springs or u bolts. If i got those would it fit? He says the new assembly is about an inch too wide. I am afraid my frame is too narrow for the newer rear axle. I need advice please.

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Ran into a big problem. My mechanic called and said the rear axle assembly does not fit under my 1978 rig. I bought a 1988 rear axle but it did not come with leaf springs or u bolts. If i got those would it fit? He says the new assembly is about an inch too wide. I am afraid my frame is too narrow for the newer rear axle. I need advice please.

New spring perches need to be welded on and bigger U bolts purchased. I'm sure someone else with more details will post and add them

Linda S

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I don't know why your mechanic is making a big deal out of it. He just has to snip off the old welds of the perches with a torch. Then put them back on in the right place and weld them. Not a huge job if he really knows what he is doing. I have done many over the years. The new axle was made for a truck with a wider frame and more distance between the leaf springs. The tires are in the same place. The new axle is also larger diameter at 3 1/8" OD. A 70s axle is 2 1/2". Toyota put bigger steel tubes in all the later axles to increase weight capacity (not just the duallies). Just the perches have to be moved. New U-bolts are cheap.

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Here are some photos of the last one I did. Anybody who calls their-self a mechanic and not just a "parts changer" can do this in less then an hour - once the axle is out and on the floor. It really is no big deal.

The angle or the pinion (where the driveshaft bolts to) is important. That is determined by at what angle the spring perches are welded on. Just cut them off and put them back on at the same angle and all will be fine. Or just copy the angle of the old axle.

post-6578-0-04288800-1452698224_thumb.jp

post-6578-0-52956800-1452698226_thumb.jp

post-6578-0-80895600-1452698228_thumb.jp

post-6578-0-47011000-1452698231_thumb.jp

post-6578-0-53896200-1452698233_thumb.jp

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JD, thanks for posting that detailed rundown and pix! I need to do exactly this job soon. a few Qs:

1. did you say you used a torch or plasma cutter to cut off the existing perches? did you have to do anything to open up the curved area for the larger radius of the newer axle?

2. what sort of welder amperage were you using to weld the perches to the axle housing? any chance my 130 amp MIG will handle it or should I just plan on tacking it in place and farming out?

3. will I heat up the axle housing enough that i'll need to replace the diff seals? if not, any chance I could do it with diff in place if I yank axleshafts and drain the juice?

4. i'm assuming that for the U-bolts, I can just order a set from Rock Auto for the '91 axle? any other suggestions on sourcing?

thanks in advance.......

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I cut off the perches with an oxy-acetylene torch. It was easy.

I used a grinder to open up the curve a little on the perches. Didn't take much.

I welded with an el-cheapo AC buzz-box arc-welder. Used a low penetration, 1/8", # 6013 rod 100 - 120 amps. MIG would even be easier since the whole idea of MIG is low to no penetration. Just get the metal clean before welding. That eliminates the need for a high-penetration rod like # 6011 that can blow holes right through the housing if not careful. I have a MIG welder but usually only use it on thin sheet metal. I don't like having to refill my argon tank.

Axle housing will barely even get warm. Lots of metal there.

I guess standard U-bolts are fine if you don't plan on adding extra leafs to the spring packs. I already posted several places that specialize in custom-bent U-bolts cheap.

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thanks! i'm sure my results won't come out as well as yours but at least I feel comfortable diving into it now. I weld so little that when I went to get a shielding gas refill recently, the tank's certification had expired in the nearly-15 yrs since i'd last had it filled.

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Clean up the weld area and use only 6013 and it is pretty hard to go wrong. Near impossible to blow a hole through something with it unless you use twice the amps needed.

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I don't see a need for a full-floater either. But is it a nice upgrade? Heck yes. You get the extra stability of dual tires and a rear stabilizer bar plus bigger rear brakes.

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  • 5 months later...

any one have any ideas on how to get past the spring perch mounting I have a 84 new horizon with  a 5 lug was given a 6 ff it is about inch and a half wider than 84 springs I can get it to sit on the pins but the leaf springs are angled a little.other problem is u bolts and plates.my 4x4 u bolts fit so im hoping rear 4x4 ubolts and perch/shock mount will work.any help appreciated she is torn apart in my driveway thank you

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a little helpful advice. If your moving the spring perch you will probably want to drill water relief holes in it before welding.

Seems Toyota engineers neglected to do this on earlier axles (not sure about later ones).

Where as the axle tube sits above the top leaf, and the open end of the perch faces up, this becomes a natural water trap. Over time, especially in area's where there are high concentrations of road salt, the axle tube could be compromised by rust.

It only takes a few minutes and easy to do with the perch off. Below is my spring perch with relief holes prior to welding.

 

DSC00196.JPG

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  • 5 months later...

I'm looking at a '79 Dolphin that still has the original axle. I found a 1-ton axle from a private seller in Montana, but was hoping to find something a little closer to home (Pennsylvania). I've just started my search, so I was hoping someone could point me in the direction of a salvage yard or private seller on the east coast that might have what I'm looking for. Which brings me to my next question: what exactly am I looking for? Which axle will fit the '79 body?  Are there other 1-ton axles out there from another make that will fit this rig (perhaps with a little innovation)? What can I expect to pay for an axle, and a rough estimate of labor costs?

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Spring perches, shock mounts, brake cables. Axle and installation if you can't do it yourself can easily exceed 2 grand. Plus I'm assuming your shipping it home. Totals way more then the rig will ever be worth. Is this a shorty? You can run single wheels in the back. I would have the rear axles pulled and bearings replaced and have them look for any damage first though. Some early short Dolphins came with only single wheels. They were never recalled

Linda S

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17 hours ago, linda s said:

Spring perches, shock mounts, brake cables. Axle and installation if you can't do it yourself can easily exceed 2 grand. Plus I'm assuming your shipping it home. Totals way more then the rig will ever be worth. Is this a shorty? You can run single wheels in the back. I would have the rear axles pulled and bearings replaced and have them look for any damage first though. Some early short Dolphins came with only single wheels. They were never recalled

Linda S

@linda s I'm actually not sure how long the coach is. All I know is that after I get done with the custom interior, catchment system, solar panels, greenhouse, etc. it'll be pushing the limits of the 3/4 ton axle. I'm not so much looking at resell value as much as I'm looking to create the home of my dreams. 

I've gotten a few estimates that were in the $400-600 range for labor and have an axle (with 6 wheels) lined up for $650. Sounds reasonable to me, but I'm still wondering if I couldn't find an axle closer to home. Do you know if any other 1-ton axles will fit the Toyota chassis?

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You could fit any axle. Since you're paying someone to do the adapt/install, I suspect the Toyota would be cheapest. Otherwise you'll be adapting whatever you chose (Ford? GM?) to Toyota prop shaft, leaf springs, hand brake, brake hose, shock mounting. Sure, they can all be overcome, but they all add up ($$$).

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Fred put a GM one ton axle on his older Gavalan camper. There's a write up here somewhere for it. Ended up with single wheels in back but a full floater. Might be a lot easier to find the GM axle back east and fit the width of his rig perfectly.

Linda S

Can't find the main post but here's a description

,

Axle is off a 1977 GM 2500. The track is approximately 74" with singles. Same as my galavan with the foolies.

Right now I'm running 8 lug in the rear with 15" steel wheels. Regular Toyota 5 lug in the front.

I believe the 6 lug semi-float GM axle is the same width. (not sure).

The Jeep wheel adapters would work as they're 5 x 4.5. The problem is they're about 2" thick. Tried them on the front, but made the wheels stick out too far.

Eventually going to have some custom adapters made out of 1/2" steel. They will transition the 5 lug to 8 lug. For now, I'm carrying 2 spares.

The axle required no modifications other than moving the spring perch(s). E-brake cable and rear drive shaft had to be fabricated. Toyota has a weird drive shaft diameter and standard adapters will not work. With the S-10 you may not have the same issues.

Edited October 9, 2016 by fred heath

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Citizenx,

This is the thread for my axle swap. Depending on how crazy you want to go with rebuilding, figure 2-4 K for the swap.

 

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/8365-axle-swap-foolie-to-1-ton-full-float/

 

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On 2009-10-08 at 6:39 PM, thatwynnguy said:

Hi, I have a 1990 toyota and am getting work done to the rear axle, it is 6 lug. Long story short the mechanic can't get new axle seals from the toy dealer. He has had them bring him 3 different seals and they are all wrong. he gave them the vin and everything and they are telling him it is obsolete and you can no longer get seals for them. can anyone help me find seals or toyota part numbers for the correct axle seals? anyone ever run into this problem? Please Help

Thanks in advance

John

Try diamond axle, they make the axles

 

On 2004-05-10 at 4:26 PM, Gulfstream Greg said:

Axle Facts, Questions & Answers is a place to post your questions regarding the old and new axles our Toyota Motorhomes have. 1985 and earlier Toys came with a non floating type axle subject to breaking. 1986 and later were equipped with a full floating axle.

For a complete Axle Fact article written by HeyJames451 from the Yahoo Campers group click Axle_FAQ.pdf. You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader. The document will open in its own window.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi, everyone.  I have a Canadian model called Okanagan, 16 1/2 foot, I have the 5 lug with extension kit rear axle, but because it's not a long distance runner, I'm going to keep it as is.  Does anyone have extra nuts and bolts for this setup?  I need inner nuts with sleeves, inner bolts, and outer fine thread nuts.  If someone has these leftover from their conversion, I could really use what you have.

thank you,...Big Jim

 

IMG_6171.JPG

IMG_7674.JPG

IMG_7666.JPG

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That's certainly not a common 'foolie' installation and I'd be surprised if you're going to find anyone soon that just might happen to have left over bits lying around.

If you've read all the 11 pages of this thread, I assume you're fully aware of the risks involved in continuing to use them. I also assume you're over 18 years old. :)

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Your assumption of age is correct.  I'm also within the weight and length parameters, and only need to replace a few nuts and bolts that were overtightened.  Also, it's just the wife and I, so we're going to use the overcab as storage and use the bed at the back when we're parked and on jacks, keeping the traveling weight over the front.

 

Thanks

Jim

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Just a FYI. The axle assembly you have appears to be the Toyota GO82 with the 8" differential. They no longer make replacement axle shafts for this unit.

If your determined to use "as is" I suggest you get a tow policy and don't drive any further from your house then you can be towed. Also drive slowly. If you break an axle at any kind of speed, it could be very bad!!!!!

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