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You do not have the weight rating of the double wheel axle. You have single wheels and the weight rating of a regular 4x4 truck. Still all over the world Toyota motorhomes continued to be made with the same axle and single wheel configuration that you have. Derek just posted so NO all 4x4 Toyota motorhomes made in this country were built on completed chassis, not incomplete cab and chassis

Linda S

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Thanks Linda.  I knew I was likely fine but I figured better to sort it out now while floor is out of truck since now would be the time to do a swap.  

On a side note, during measurements of the rig and frame we found the rear axle to be crooked!  Welded in at just the wrong angle, maybe 1/4” off from side to side.  This whole truck has questionable construction!

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
On 1/13/2011 at 3:58 PM, Derek up North said:

Please provide details. I'm sure more people than I would like to learn of this alternative source. Any info on what ratio you have in it? What are you using for rear wheels?

Are you in Canada, given that the Vanguard is a Canadian MH.

Derek up north!

Are you still moderator here and in Lachute?

I'm from Harrington ! I just bought a 85 Escaperv21 foot with 123,000 miles

It has the 5 lug axles...

Some one told me he has the same vehicle and just switched out the dualies for a wider higher rated single rear tire

He did this year's ago and is pleased with the smoother ride and no problems...

What do you think on that?

Seems like a single wheel 1 ton axle would be better than dualies

And more available

Do you know how to tell the 1/2 ton drw, from the 1 ton srw?

Thank you!

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Some people are saying  single wheel with wider tires and appropriate load rating is better than dualies.

With a 1/2 ton axle (5stud) or yes the 1 ton axle...

My rig has been running dualies on the 5 stud  for 34 years, 123,000 km.... I kinda feel this axle has proved its worth....of course fatigue....

What are the thoughts of the experts here?

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Single wheel with a slightly wider tire to handle the load is not better than a full float axle but it is a viable alternative if a full float conversion is not possible. Your rig was only driven a few thousand km per year. Maybe those were mostly shorter trips where the strain on the bearings wasn't as much. We have gotten plenty of posts here from members whose axles finally gave out at around the same mileage. If you do opt for the single wheel in the back your bearings should be replaced and your axle should be inspected. Not a huge cost and better to start out fresh. Upgrading to 15 inch tires might make it easier to find a higher load range tire to handle the weight of the camper. I believe early 2wd Tacoma's have the correct lug pattern 15 inch wheels

Linda S

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On 12/29/2018 at 3:03 PM, linda s said:

Single wheel with a slightly wider tire to handle the load is not better than a full float axle but it is a viable alternative if a full float conversion is not possible. Your rig was only driven a few thousand km per year. Maybe those were mostly shorter trips where the strain on the bearings wasn't as much. We have gotten plenty of posts here from members whose axles finally gave out at around the same mileage. If you do opt for the single wheel in the back your bearings should be replaced and your axle should be inspected. Not a huge cost and better to start out fresh. Upgrading to 15 inch tires might make it easier to find a higher load range tire to handle the weight of the camper. I believe early 2wd Tacoma's have the correct lug pattern 15 inch wheels

Linda S

Thank you so much Linda!

I just don't think

I could ever feel 100% safe with the 5 stud axle.  would I hand over the keys to my son in law and watch him drive off on vacation with my daughter and grandchildren aboard and sleep soundly? NO!

A FF AXLE IS findable for about 4 to 500 USD

Add to that wheels, maybe another 2 or 300....not so bad... for A rig that will last a lifetime...

The question arises.... what do I need to change on the front  to have the same hole pattern?

TY again!

 

 

 

 

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I have 5 lug in front and 6 in the back. In 86 they hadn't done the 6 lug front yet. I have gotten flats in the back and driven quite a ways with only one wheel on a side to get to where I could get service. Some people opt to have  spares but space and weight can be a problem. Finding the stuff to make the front 6 lug is expensive and harder to find than the rear. Can't hurt to try though. Just so you realize though, the axle wasn't the problem. The fake dually wheels were. Toyota motorhomes with essentially the same semi floating axle as your 5 lug continued to be made in many other countries for many years. 

Linda S

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The fake dual wheel exasperated the problem because of the leverage but the 1/2 ton axles had a single bearing, an overweight situation would flex the axle right at the bearing radius not good. The one ton axle carried no weight it did not support the truck, the twin tapered wheel bearings inside the hub did. What you see on a one ton hub with the small nuts is the axle you can remove the axle and the truck would not fall over would not go anywhere but would still roll fine. My 4X4 Tacoma has a 6 bolt wheel hub but it is a 1/2 ton rear not a floating axle. I believe the payload is like 1200# people and cargo so one can see how fast that weight could be exceeded by putting a full size house on it's back. By the way I have seen a modern Tacoma with a broken axle the owner was a masion and carried bricks.

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12 hours ago, escaper85 said:

Thank you so much Linda!

I just don't think

I could ever feel 100% safe with the 5 stud axle.  would I hand over the keys to my son in law and watch him drive off on vacation with my daughter and grandchildren aboard and sleep soundly? NO!

A FF AXLE IS findable for about 4 to 500 USD

Add to that wheels, maybe another 2 or 300....not so bad... for A rig that will last a lifetime...

The question arises.... what do I need to change on the front  to have the same hole pattern?

TY again!

The 6 bolt pickup front wheels ( 87 up)  had  different brakes they had a larger brake rotor and caliper and I believe the spindle assembly was different also, I have no ideal if any one makes a adapter kit with just a hub that would fit the earlier truck. I would be easier to just buy a 5 bolt spare and if you have a flat rear just remove it and limp somewhere close for a tire repair.

 

 

 

Edited by Maineah
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If you can find a truck with the 6 bolt front end. Get everything. Remove the front assembly at the ball joints. Get brakes, rotor, hoses and spindle. While you have it all apart replace the ball with good quality ones. Remove your old the stuff and just  bolt the new stuff to your a arms.

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I honestly don't remember but there was also a suspension change prior to coil overs so if asked I would have to say don't get into this without research on what will actually fit. We are talking 30 years here I do know the brakes were different so would the entire assembly fit with the 6 bolt parts? Maybe, but I'm thinking the larger caliper assembly would not fit the spindle assembly. The problem was the one ton it was different that the standard pickup. 4X4 was completely different.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/2/2019 at 1:23 AM, linda s said:

I have 5 lug in front and 6 in the back. In 86 they hadn't done the 6 lug front yet. I have gotten flats in the back and driven quite a ways with only one wheel on a side to get to where I could get service. Some people opt to have  spares but space and weight can be a problem. Finding the stuff to make the front 6 lug is expensive and harder to find than the rear. Can't hurt to try though. Just so you realize though, the axle wasn't the problem. The fake dually wheels were. Toyota motorhomes with essentially the same semi floating axle as your 5 lug continued to be made in many other countries for many years. 

Thank you Linda!!

In an earlier post you state that a lot of axles failed around the 120,000 like mark, ( where I'm at) and above you state that Toyota continued to sell these axles to motor home makers around the world for years.

Now I'm kind of confused.... Should I change it or not? Lololol!

I realize the final call is mine, and you are not responsible for any decisions I make...:-)

I believe that I could likely not change a thing and still get miles of service out of it.

On the other hand...At the price I paid for it, even if I invested 1000$ to do the upgrade I would still be comfortable. That 5 lug axle was used heavily as a bargaining tool....:)

I have located in my area a 1 ton , 3:90 ratio, 6 lug, single wheel axle .. from a Uhaul truck. stamped "G072" according to the recycler that fits on my 85 frame...

What do you think?

Linda S

 

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Well I didn't think Uhaul ever used any single wheel Toyota trucks. Have you seen this axle? And if it's 6 lug it's either the correct dual wheel axle or it's for a 4x4 truck which I'm sure Uhaul never used. A 1 ton axle is no different than a regular axle. The thing that made 1 ton trucks 1 ton was the staggered shock absorbers and thicker leaf spring packs. Yes many companies still made Toyota motorhomes in different countries with the semi floating axle. They did not use the fake duallies like they did here which was the main cause of the failures. Hard to advise you on whether you should use it or not when I don't think it is what the recycler is telling you. Sounds like you'd be replacing your axle with the same exact thing. Waste of money. 

Linda S

Ask him to measure the lug pattern. 4x4 would be 6 x 5.5" and the dually would be 6 x 7.25"

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4 hours ago, linda s said:

Well I didn't think Uhaul ever used any single wheel Toyota trucks. Have you seen this axle? And if it's 6 lug it's either the correct dual wheel axle or it's for a 4x4 truck which I'm sure Uhaul never used. A 1 ton axle is no different than a regular axle. The thing that made 1 ton trucks 1 ton was the staggered shock absorbers and thicker leaf spring packs. Yes many companies still made Toyota motorhomes in different countries with the semi floating axle. They did not use the fake duallies like they did here which was the main cause of the failures. Hard to advise you on whether you should use it or not when I don't think it is what the recycler is telling you. Sounds like you'd be replacing your axle with the same exact thing. Waste of money. 

Linda S

Ask him to measure the lug pattern. 4x4 would be 6 x 5.5" and the dually would be 6 x 7.25"

SOOOOO KNOWLEDGEABLE!! TY!

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On 1/2/2019 at 12:12 PM, WME said:

If you can find a truck with the 6 bolt front end. Get everything. Remove the front assembly at the ball joints. Get brakes, rotor, hoses and spindle. While you have it all apart replace the ball with good quality ones. Remove your old the stuff and just  bolt the new stuff to your a arms.

HI!,

I FOUND A  one ton 88 with all except the engine

I've arranged to have the rear axle assembly and all the front wheel assemblies removed and sent to the mechanics place who will be doing the work for/ with , me

DO YOU know if I'm the parts will fit the present A frames? OR SHOUD I change those also, and would the 1 ton A frames fit my frame?

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2 hours ago, escaper85 said:

HI!,

I FOUND A  one ton 88 with all except the engine

I've arranged to have the rear axle assembly and all the front wheel assemblies removed and sent to the mechanics place who will be doing the work for/ with , me

DO YOU know if I'm the parts will fit the present A frames? OR SHOUD I change those also, and would the 1 ton A frames fit my frame?

You need all the suspension parts, springs, bolts etc. Also and maybe the master brake cylinder. If I was the mechanic I would prefer the donor truck at my shop for easy pickin". Some fabrication may/will be needed. Will it all fit, I have no idea. You may be the first to find out! 

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The uprights will bolt to your existing a arms. While. things are apart replace the a-arm bushings, ball joints, brake pads. New rotors are not that expensive and would give you a brand new front end.

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3 hours ago, WME said:

The uprights will bolt to your existing a arms. While. things are apart replace the a-arm bushings, ball joints, brake pads. New rotors are not that expensive and would give you a brand new front end.

Ok, so i dont need to change the a arms? But should change the bushings for good measure! ?

PADS all around definately!  And yes the master cylinder!  thank you  GULF STREAM GREG!

I'm thinking I might buy a go pro camera and make some videos of this! Lol!

What an adventure! I am in Quebec, near Ottawa. I am going g to drive down to do this in a yard in North Carolina,  with people I don't know!

They have even offered to put me up while the job is getting done! I will definately be bringing some tools, a MIG welder, my coveralls....and my wallet! Hahaha

I CANT FIND ANY PICTURES OF WHAT  the Toyota upgrade kit looked lime and what it entailed....instructions.... that would be MIRACULOUS to find!!

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Your rubber suspension A-arm bushings are 25 years old or worse, you already have spent 1/2 the labor cost getting the old brakes, rotors and uprights off your rig to change them. Save time by doing it now instead of in 2years. Same thing for the ball joints.

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1 hour ago, WME said:

Your rubber suspension A-arm bushings are 25 years old or worse, you already have spent 1/2 the labor cost getting the old brakes, rotors and uprights off your rig to change them. Save time by doing it now instead of in 2years. Same thing for the ball joints.

Yes! Agreed!

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/16/2019 at 2:21 PM, Gulfstream Greg said:

You need all the suspension parts, springs, bolts etc. Also and maybe the master brake cylinder. If I was the mechanic I would prefer the donor truck at my shop for easy pickin". Some fabrication may/will be needed. Will it all fit, I have no idea. You may be the first to find out! 

Hi!

Well I'm headed down to North Carolina this morning to pick up all the parts for my front and rear axle upgrade.

Including the master  brake cylinder.

I found a young guy who's father owns a large truck suspension shop in the area. They are willing to take on the job and estimate a good days work.... They were asking me if the driveshaft to differential connector is the same or should I take the driveshaft from North Carolina ? I know that can be easily cut and rewelded to the one I have now if needed...

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I THINK that the drive shaft is OK, BUT that the bolt flange on the new axle may have to be changed. Any case take everything you have including the driveshaft. As they better to have and not need than the other way.

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On 2/6/2019 at 1:02 PM, WME said:

I THINK that the drive shaft is OK, BUT that the bolt flange on the new axle may have to be changed. Any case take everything you have including the driveshaft. As they better to have and not need than the other way.

Yes ! I have the complete driveshaft, the rear axle of course, the front spindles, with the  calipers and rotors, the front top Aframes. 7 rims and tires! 500usd.

I'm stoked!!! 🙂

 

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  • 1 month later...

I bought my '81 Dolphin Model 500 (the one with the big rear window) without knowing or being informed of the axle issue (by the seller).  It's got only 55 K on it, all the facilities work in the RV, the gas gauge is the only thing that doesn't work.  I am re-arching the leaf springs, adding 2 more leaves and changing out the shocks at the moment because it was riding a bit low.  I've read the axle article a couple times now and have checked the national recall site and my vehicle has no recall on record.  I went to the Toyota dealership to see if I could get some more information about the vehicle and maybe some part numbers and they said that the vehicle is referred to as "Heavy Duty" .  The vehicle owners manual states that there was a 1/2 ton and a 3/4 ton manufactured.  The leaf stack have 8 in it and the GVW is 4650 = corresponding to the 3/4 ton. 

Is the article referring to both the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton vehicle or just the 1/2 ton? 

How reliable is the National recall site?  If they note that the vehicle has no recall history does it mean that I'm OK and do not need to replace the axles?

If new axles are needed any recommendations on who to get them from?  I'd imagine getting the axle shafts with all the bearings, seals, lugs, nuts ... would be the best way to order.  I've been asked if I have a 27 or a 30 spline shaft.  I suppose I'll need to take it out to determine which I have, to order.  Would the number of splines indicate whether the shaft is adequate (3/4 ton vs. the 1/2 ton)?

Hope I haven't asked too many questions but I'm uncertain on what to do.   A lot of facts, unanswered details, some conflicting info and I'm not a master mechanic. 

Thanks for any guidance and advice.  

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The axle Recall was for all motorhomes fitted with 'Aftermarket Dual Rear Wheels. The Recall wasn't against Toyota. It was against the motorhome manufacturers. There is no list of VINs.

Here's the documentation that describes the problem though not specific to your Dolphin.

For some reason, I can't upload the PDF of the Dolphin Recall.

EDIT:- Try this link for the Axle Recall:  http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=13221Axles included 1978 - 1986.jpg

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