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While not a substitute for the FF. A simple hack will help to reduce the load stress on the axle. 65psi in inner tire and 50 psi in outer duel.

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yokohama LT195/75 R14 is what i was recommended.  

  • SIZE: 185R14 (195 is also acceptible providing they meet the other load and sidewall requirements)
  • LOAD RANGE: "C" or "D" Light Truck (LT) tires.
  • MAXIMUM LOAD RATING: 1500-1700 lbs +
  •  
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Load Capacity: 195/75R14 - 1710lb @ 65psi

                         185R14:- 1875lb @ 65psi

You'd actually be better of with the 'smaller' tire.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Y356

Who made the recommendation?

195R14 (2057lb @ 65psi) is not the same thing as 195/75R14.

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Yeah I saw that too The only thing D load about that tire is the max pressure. Weight rating is not up to D load specs. Bet they cost a bundle too. Hey you were already here. WE are the experts you needed to ask.

Linda S

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The latest failure. Quotes from the owner:-

"Running fine then happened all of a sudden with no prior sound or notice

"The dually tires continued down the freeway for a half mile but are still holding air!

"It's a trip steering an RV with only 3 wheels at freeway speed!

"On the bright side there were no injuries and the sunset was awesome!"

 

Edit: He was aware of the problem:-

" his was the reason that the NHTSA issued a recall on the half ton rear axle for Toyota RVs."

I'm guessing that as he sat at the edge of the highway in NM far from home his thoughts were maybe "I wish this happened in my driveway."  :)

 

Mini Cruiser.jpg

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Please note also there is no brake drum it is still attached to the wheels and the broken axle somewhere down the road. Right after the wheels etc parted ways he lost the rear brakes too. No the other side did not work.

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Though not the focus of this thread, another Toyota Axle Fact is the 1986 specific use of Left Hand Threads on the left side of the rear (only) axle. Toyota was not alone, both Chrysler and GM used to use LH threads. Why, you might ask?

The wheel nuts and studs basically sandwich the wheel and brake components together. The nuts and studs have to squeeze those components together with enormous force, called the clamping force, in order for the sandwich to stay together. The clamping force is made when the nuts are tightened onto the studs. If the clamping force is lost, then the nuts loosen, leading to the different mechanisms of left-side nut spin-off and right-side stud reversed-bending fatigue.

The mechanism for the left side wheel nuts spinning off as the vehicle travels can be understood from the geometry of the wheel and studs when the wheel is slightly loose. Since the stud holes are larger than the studs, the wheel is not perfectly concentric with the axle when the nuts are loose. When the road pushes up on the tire, the wheel tends to be pushed up relative to the axle centerline. This means the wheel centerline is slightly above the axle centerline. This centerline offset gives rise to a relative velocity vector between each wheel nut and the part of the wheel the nuts touch. This vector is in the loosening direction on the left side when the vehicle is driving forward and is the cause of wheel nuts spinning off the left side.

The right side nuts have that same relative velocity vector, but in the opposite (i.e., tightening) direction. It turns out that this vector is not strong enough to make a loose nut tight again. So, on the right side, a loose nut tends to stay loose rather than spin off. But this invites another mechanism – fatigue.  When a nut is tight, the clamping force creates large frictional forces at the wheel/hub interface that transfer the vertical forces that support the weight of the car. However, when a nut is loose, there is no clamping force, and the studs now carry the vertical forces. This bends the studs up and down every time the tire rotates. Just as a paper clip breaks when you bend it back and forth a few times, a wheel stud can break when it is bent up and down a few million times. This is called reversed-bending fatigue, and is the reason that right-side studs eventually break off when the nuts are loose.

The starting point for a wheel nut to spin off the left side, or for a stud to break off the right side, is the same:  the nut had to be loose. Therefore, the investigation of fastener-related wheel separations should focus on the clamping force.

Lots more to read here (if your head isn't about to explode already):-

http://www.meaforensic.com/wheel-separation-investigation-metallurgical-expert-mark-bailey-mea-forensic

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the tire shop recommended these. yes i know...

i found this site only after i have purchased the Dolphin 1984. 

i also have another question: how to measure pressure or pump the tires on the inner tires on these (fake) duallys ?

look at my rims are also two different kind. valve pointing inwards on one of the outer tires too :(

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  • 2 weeks later...
3 hours ago, JR67 said:

Are you keeping the duel rear wheels or going to singles?

If keeping the duels, the 9” ford axle will be too wide. 

Still lots of fabricating to be done. Things like spring perch, shock mounts, driveshaft modifications etc. 

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  • 2 months later...

Lots of info on here. My dolphin is broken down 250+ miles from home.

definitely blown bearing mechanic where I left it says broken axel. The wheel is still on but doesn’t roll well. 

It is a 5 lug single wheel. Same wheels front and back. I know upgrading the rear ended would be a good idea. But for now I just want it on the road so I can get it home. I just want to make sure that I am getting the right axel that will bolt right up. 

How can you tell the difference between the 1/2 ton 5 lug and the 3/4 ton 5 lug I’ve seen people talk of it on here. I have an axel pulled from a 78 truck that I plan to take up there to fix it. I just want to be sure I have all the correct parts before driving so far. It’s hard to figure out when it’s not right in front of me. 

It is a smaller dolphin 1978 single wheels on the back axel. 

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My replacement axel is same year just off a truck not the dolphin. Hoping it’s the same. I can’t tow it because it’s the rear wheel that isn’t working. Doubt that the front suspension could take it. 

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9 minutes ago, Ben Butler said:

My replacement axel is same year just off a truck not the dolphin. Hoping it’s the same. I can’t tow it because it’s the rear wheel that isn’t working. Doubt that the front suspension could take it. 

If you’re replacing the entire rear end housing and axle shafts as a unit the truck unit should be a direct bolt on. You will now have a 7.5” ring gear as opposed to the 8” (less weight carrying capacity).

If you’re planning on just the axle shafts alone THEY WILL NOT WORK. The 7.5” has unequal axle shafts and a different spline count. 

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3 hours ago, fred heath said:

If you’re replacing the entire rear end housing and axle shafts as a unit the truck unit should be a direct bolt on. You will now have a 7.5” ring gear as opposed to the 8” (less weight carrying capacity).

If you’re planning on just the axle shafts alone THEY WILL NOT WORK. The 7.5” has unequal axle shafts and a different spline count. 

Dang. I had multiple people tell me it will. This has been hard to find solid answers to. So the spline is likely wrong. Is what you are calling the 7.5” what others have been referring to as the 1/2 ton and the 8” the 3/4 ton? Do you know if there is a difference in bearing size? I think it’s only a bearing because the wheel is still attached and has only a small amount of play when jacked up. 

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9 hours ago, Ben Butler said:

Dang. I had multiple people tell me it will. This has been hard to find solid answers to. So the spline is likely wrong. Is what you are calling the 7.5” what others have been referring to as the 1/2 ton and the 8” the 3/4 ton? Do you know if there is a difference in bearing size? I think it’s only a bearing because the wheel is still attached and has only a small amount of play when jacked up. 

According to a former member here the bearings are interchangeable. 

And yes, the 7.5” is the half ton. The 8 inch is the 3/4 ton (also known as a GO82). Unless you really lucked out and got a 3/4 ton axle in your donor truck. Check the mfg plate under the hood. If you see the GO82 designation it’s the 8” ring gear (see attached picture). Also, let your mechanic know there’s a small external  snap ring on the axle shaft(very hard to see) that MUST be removed before trying to remove the old bearing. You will need it for reassembly with the new bearing. 

Personally, if your old bearing is in that bad of condition I would be afraid to trust the axle shaft even with a new bearing. Your decision!!!!

25C90652-FFA1-45D2-90EE-98B904FEA5BA.jpeg

Edited by fred heath
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Second thought........ Did you verify that your rig has the 8” axle? Again, look at the mfg plate under the hood.If it says GO82 it’s the 8”. If not, you may have a 1/2 chassis. Parts are still available for the 1/2 ton axle. 

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16 hours ago, fred heath said:

Second thought........ Did you verify that your rig has the 8” axle? Again, look at the mfg plate under the hood.If it says GO82 it’s the 8”. If not, you may have a 1/2 chassis. Parts are still available for the 1/2 ton axle. 

The biggest problem is that I am not 100% sure what it has on it. Being so far away now is the biggest challenge. I called the mechanic who’s shop it is parked in front of and told him I had parts and pland to come up there and have him fix yesterday And he said that he doesn’t have time until after the 4th. Sounds to be like he isn’t up to the challenge and has plenty of gravy work. If I knew 100% that I had the right part I would just do it myself right there in front of his shop. Looking at some YouTube videos it doesn’t look to hard.  I’ve  never changed an axel but I’ve done plenty of roadside makeshift repairs to get back on the road. Now my plan is to just tow it back. I signed up for the aaa premium  it gives you 200 miles free and I’ll have to pay for the rest. I used to have it but didn’t update it awhile ago. we should all have that if we are going to take long trips in our vintage campers. Once I get it back home I can tear it down and not stress out on getting parts and assess if I want to rebuild with same what ever it has or upgrade the whole rear end.  Thank you all for the infomation! 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 5/10/2004 at 1:26 PM, Gulfstream Greg said:

Axle Facts, Questions & Answers is a place to post your questions regarding the old and new axles our Toyota Motorhomes have. 1985 and earlier Toys came with a non floating type axle subject to breaking. 1986 and later were equipped with a full floating axle.

For a complete Axle Fact article written by HeyJames451 from the Yahoo Campers group click Axle_FAQ.pdf. You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader. The document will open in its own window.

This document is no longer Available any way I can find it ???

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Hi guys looking at picture certain things come to mind. Is that a 86 axle on a 82. If it is the springs could have sagged over the years. May need a replacement.  My 83 now has the 86 axle in and had to get the springs re arced. It sat so low I thought it was going too bottom out. Is there side skirts?

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  • 2 months later...

I’ve been reading through this thread and I’m a little curious of the axle on my 1990 Odyssey single wheel 4x4.  The VIN brings it up as a half ton truck.  The axle doesn’t look like a full float but it’s possible it’s a new design??  Or a beefed up standard axle?  

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The truck has around 120,000 miles on it.  I am unsure what’s factory and not factory of the Toyota as it looks like the motorhome factory did all kinds of weird modifications and parts swapping.  It has multiple U-Joint styles in the driveshaft.  The center carrier support bearing doesn’t look anything like a carrier for this year of truck according to my research.  

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anyone have any input?  Should I be concerned? 

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11 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

To my UNTRAINED eye, that looks like a standard 4x4 axle. If it has a higher GAWR than a 2wd rear axle, I don't know.

It looks pretty beefy, need to see if I can find a number on it for identification

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Here are my two tags.  

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Edited by Odyssey 4x4
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That's an interesting and very useful read Linda.  I am still a bit confused as to SAFETY of my rig.  I don't see any numbers on those write ups mentioning what weight the axle is rated for.  

I am reading through multiple other forums and am seeing people saying they have the G292 axle code but have found when opening the axle that they have the 4 pinion and not the 2 that that code describes!  

I know these "newer" year axles are built better and beefier than the ones that were failing in early trucks, I just want to know if this is okay which I am assuming it it.  Plus I am going to need to figure out exactly what I have for when I order a locker!  

Edited by Odyssey 4x4
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I'm thinking so too. 

 

3rds.thumb.jpg.f8fecdb6df82bb24a6b6bd493f83090c.jpg

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I do see a few small differences but mine looks pretty similar to the v6/turbo in this photo.  Mine doesn't have the little knob protrusion coming down from the top middle.  

 

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