Replacing propane system parts

[MontanaChinook]

I need to replace my tank regulator, some hoses, and the hard line that connects to my stovetop.

My question is: where do I go for a consultation and to buy the parts? The propane business, or the RV place?

I'm going to do it myself, but want someone with experience to look and say "yeah, this is what you need".

I was planning on going to Montana Propane, but then wondered if the RV shop is actually where I should be taking it...I don't know.

[5Toyota]

one thing i can tell you you need a two stage regulater the old ones where often single stage they are no longer legal on a camper for safty reasons.i dont know your rv place but that is where i go here.

[MontanaChinook]

Thanks! Yeah my old regulator is not modern. And there's a leak at a connection not far from it, so I'm just replacing everything from what connects to the tank, to where it goes into a hard line. All the soft hose, regulator stuff and connections by the tank.

That and the hard line I bent getting my counter top off...

I may try the RV place first.

[5Toyota]

thirty five year old copper could be unstable good to replace with new if you dont have a flaring tool you need that or they can flare it it is also easy to kink takeit easy and slow NEVER USE COMPRESSION NON FLARE FITTINGS ON GAS use flare fittings only.

[Maineah]

Making copper connections will require double flares there should be a manifold of black iron pipe under the camper that the copper joins to it will look nasty but most likely is fine. where there is a source of vibration or some thing that needs to be removed (regulator etc) there should be a flexible hose they are special but many local outfits will have them. As 5toyota says buy an new regulator they are pretty cheap.

[MontanaChinook]

Alright, thanks again.

[zero]

Most RVs made in the USA have single-flares at the LP connections. The double-flare thing is a new requirement for newly made RVs IF using copper. Some LP copper pipes carry high pressure LP. Your RV does not. It's less then 1 PSI. I regard flaring (single versus double) as purely optional on an older RV. The quality of the flare nuts worries me more then the type of flare. Most leaks I've encountered at the flare were caused by cracked flare nuts - not the flare itself. That's why I only use forged flare nuts which cost a bit more. Code requires the use of stress-relieved nuts or forged nuts. Forged nuts have slightly rounded corners instead of sharp.

Personally I've never come across a cracked single flare if the correct type K soft copper refrigeration type pipe was used (measured by OD, not ID like water pipe).

Whatever you do - check when done with liquid soap for leaks.

[MontanaChinook]

I will! Thanks

[Boots]

First off great that you have the skills to replace the propane system, however, there is a fatal flaw in your plan. Your vehicle insurance.

If you do the work and you are not a licensed gas fitter or registered RV appliance mechanic with a gas certification and you have an accident or worse yet a propane fire, you will have zero insurance coverage, let me repeat that no insurance coverage.

Even if you do not get in an accident and instead get pulled over by commercial truck inspectors (as happened to me on two occasions) and they find you did the work or they find fault with it, they will make you pull over, and they will tow your RV to an impound lot.

Think about this, before attempting this work.

Boots

[MontanaChinook]

Well we're do-it-ourself-ers around here...

I appreciate the perspective but very much doubt that a commercial truck inspector (never even heard of one!) will pull me over in my Chinook. Can a non-police person even pull me over? I guess if they have the authority of public lands enforcement, game wardens etc...

My guess is that in the intermountain west, no RV is going to be even noticed by those sorts of people.

Is this a California or east coast thing?

I could see one of the ginormous RVs I see on the road getting pulled over, but not a little Toyota.

I also only have liability insurance.

I've had three different rv and propane shops look at my set up now and do little things I'm not able to do with my skills and tools, and not one has cautioned me against the work I'm doing.

So while I like the language of "fatal flaw", I think it's a bit dramatic. This thread was from a year ago anyway.

[Derek up North]

Though this might be an older thread, it will still be found by anyone using the Search function in which case the date is irrelevant. If the add on info is useful and relevant, I see no problem adding on to an older post, though it's obviously not going to help the original poster unless they happen to be a procrastinator.

This thread was from a year ago anyway.

[MontanaChinook]

I agree with your point.

My point was that he was addressing me, and my fatal flaw. So I responded that it's a bit too late.

But yes, his info is relevant (probably) to anyone searching for info on upgrading their propane system.

[WME]

DOT inspectors don't pull over RVs to inspect them.

An inspector couldn't tell between a single or a double flare with out dismantling the system.

Using a tubing flair tool doesn't require a PHD

Fix your own system and check with soapy water, even the next joint before the one you worked on (because you've been wiggling the line make the flair.

[linda s]

And most of the repairs we do are regulator related and all the fittings screw on. Proper gas tape and checking the lines and your good. I in fact just saw a supposedly professional repair yesterday and the corrrect tape was not used. Looked like regular plumbers tape.

Linda S

[MontanaChinook]

And check the joints again after your first rattly trip! I had no gas leaks for months, until I was rattling down too many southern Utah roads and suddenly there was a strong propane smell in the camper.

There were a couple leaks, but like WME mentioned, the worst leak was actually from a joint I never even messed with. But it was on the other end of a short piece of pipe that I had been working on.

Crazy thing was that even with a very strong propane smell, my propane detector didn't go off. Not sure how strong it needs to be to set that thing off. Clearly my nose is better than the detector...