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For starters both my batteries are located in the front engine compartment of my truck. The batteries I currently have are an Everstart Maxx-24S (Date 8/08) and an Exide HD-M-24 (8/04). I have seen quite a few posts about type 27's, 29's and 31's, but no 24's. I guess the smaller batteries that I have just don't offer the amp hours as the larger ones, am I correct to assume so? The previous owner also has them paralleled via a large cable connected to the positive terminals. Is this OK, besides the fact that I'm running both batteries down when using my 12V systems.

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If i had that setup in mine I would be adding a group 29 in the rear camper area somewhere and venting that box. Why? my kids leave lights on and things plugged in all the time. If I didn't have kids in the picture I wouldn't mind the setup you have too much; Its a risk because of what you just said; you forget one thing and you are stranded with a dead battery. The other con of your setup is the requirement of a crazy thick cable to power an inverter should you choose to want an inverter due to the distance from the batteries. Most of the toys I have seen have a coach battery under the couch in the camper area or rear but its in a box that is sealed from the cab and is accessed from the outside the rig hatch. This is for venting reasons (hydrogen).

If you haven't swapped out to LEDs for your lights yet it might be wise to do so. At that point only the fridge (if you have a 3 way) and the furnace can kill your battery.

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Maybe for starters put a battery switch between the pos to pos cable. I'm a little "careful" about batteries so I carry one of those battery jumper boxes, also has a light in it. I will not ever again give a jump start to anyone with my vehicle, have replaced too many diodes/diode plate assy after hooking up to something with electrical problems "it's just a dead battery, happens all the time"...

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THE FIRST THING THat. I WONDER IS WHERE IS YOUR ISALATER THERE SHOULD BE KNOW WAY THE STARTING BATTERY DRAINS DOWN. I DONT HAVE KIDS ALL GROWN BUT MY PRV 1978 HAD TWO BATTERYS UNDER THE HOOD WORKED FINE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM BOTH THE SMALLER GROUP 24 DEEP CYCLE AND GROUP 24 STARTING BATTERY. . these campers were set up so that the starting battery can NOT BE DRAINED AT ALL. MY 78 HAD FIVE TWIN FLORENCE TUBE LIGHTS i could still run my furnece at least two nights at 55 with out a problem.

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AND LOOK AT THE DATES ON THOSE BATTERYS 8 of 08 and 8 of 04 those batterys are way two old. I PUT TWO NEW GROUP 24S IN MY 1978 DROVE IT THREE YEARS and never had any TROUBLE BOUGHT MYN AT LES SHAUB. YOU NEED TWO NEW BATTERYS AND YOU NEED TO GET YOUR ISILATER PROBLEM SORTED OUT. I AM NOT SHURE THAT RED WIRE IS WHAT IT SHOULD BE . NO WAY THE STARTING BATT SHOULD EVER GO DOWN AT ALL .

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The smaller size 24 should be OK to start the truck (Toyota used these for years) The other 24 would be OK to run the coach, just not as long as a 27 or 29.

The jumper across the two batteries effectively makes them one battery. The only problem I see with this, if you run the risk of discharging the batteries from lights and loads in the coach. and then you wont be able to start the truck.

It should be an easy modification to re-install the "Isolator" to prevent this. If you're lucky, the isolator may still be there along with the original wiring. This would probably be a good starting point if you plan on upgrading the coach battery to a larger capacity.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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For starters both my batteries are located in the front engine compartment of my truck. The batteries I currently have are an Everstart Maxx-24S (Date 8/08) and an Exide HD-M-24 (8/04). I have seen quite a few posts about type 27's, 29's and 31's, but no 24's. I guess the smaller batteries that I have just don't offer the amp hours as the larger ones, am I correct to assume so? The previous owner also has them paralleled via a large cable connected to the positive terminals. Is this OK, besides the fact that I'm running both batteries down when using my 12V systems.

Some type # 24 batteries have more power then some type # 27 batteries. Largely depends on what the batteries weigh. The best # 24 has more power then the cheapest # 27. The best # 24 has less power then the best # 27.

The best # 24s weighs around 47 lbs. and will put out 10 amps of current for 6 1/2 hours or 20 amps for 2 1/2 hours.

A cheaper # 24 weighs 33 lbs, and puts out 10 amps for only 4 hours.

The best # 27 weighs around 50 lbs. and puts out 10 amps for 10 hours and 20 amps for 4 hours.

Note that the above figures are for running the batteries dead. For best life, batteries should not be run past half-dead.

Battery choice in your RV depends on what you need to use the battery for. I.e. how long and how many amps between charges.

Battery location depends if you need very high amp draws. If so, the "house" battery needs to be in back near the applicances. This is especially true if you want to use a high-amp DC to AC inverter.

Walmart batteries made by Johnson Controls are . . # 24 is 46 lbs., # 27 is 50 lbs. and # 29 is 61 lbs.

Hooking batteries in series or parallel changes nothing in total output. Having your two batteries in parallel doubles run-time (amp-hours) but leaves voltage at 12 volts. Main problem is - if they get run down, you can't start your engine unless you install a "smart" battery separator that senses when voltage gets too low.

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So I'm considering these 4 batteries. Which 2 would be the best for my situation? Please keep in mind that both my batteries are linked together and I'm trying to get the most amp hours out of the combo.

Starting - http://www.walmart.com/ip/Everstart-Maxx-24S-Automotive-Battery/16795233

Starting hybrid - http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-24MS-6-Marine-Battery/16782694

Starting hybrid - http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Group-Size-24-Marine-Battery/20531538

House deep cycle - http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Group-Size-24DC-Marine-Battery/20531540

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So I'm considering these 4 batteries. Which 2 would be the best for my situation? Please keep in mind that both my batteries are linked together and I'm trying to get the most amp hours out of the combo.

Starting - http://www.walmart.com/ip/Everstart-Maxx-24S-Automotive-Battery/16795233

Starting hybrid - http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-24MS-6-Marine-Battery/16782694

Starting hybrid - http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Group-Size-24-Marine-Battery/20531538

House deep cycle - http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Group-Size-24DC-Marine-Battery/20531540

The Everstart Maxx 24 (46 lbs. for $85) has the most amp-hours, reserve-capacity, and cycle-life. A pair hooked in parallel will provide 228 amp-hours. The next one lower down on the line is the Everstart 24DC for $75. . Weighs 44 lbs. and a pair gives 202 amp-hours.

If you want the most amp-hours and plan on having them hooked in parallel -having two deep-cycle batteries and no "cranking" battery is fine for a small engine like a Toyota has.

The one issue though is . . . with both batteries hooked in full-time parallel -they get equally discharged. If you run them down too far, you won't get your engine started.

To be safe, such a system in an RV should have a low-voltage battery disconnect. It goes between your batteries and power doing to the RV. If voltage gets low enough where starting the engine might be an issue - the batteries get cut off from the RV but stay connected to the starting system. It will disconnect if battery voltage drops below 12.1 volts. Rated for 200 amp continuous and 500 amps surge. Works great in a system when all the batteries are hooked together all the time. This is not normal convention in an RV but works fine if it's what you want. RV systems more often keep cranking and "house" batteries separated when the engine is not running.

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It has been a long time since i have seen a battery at Walmart that says "made by Johnson controls" the ones i am seeing now say "distributed by Johnson controls"! Being the suspicious guy that i am i wonder about the source. The very small like scooter batteries Everstarts are labeled made in Taiwan ,makes me wonder where the big ones come from.

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It has been a long time since i have seen a battery at Walmart that says "made by Johnson controls" the ones i am seeing now say "distributed by Johnson controls"! Being the suspicious guy that i am i wonder about the source. The very small like scooter batteries Everstarts are labeled made in Taiwan ,makes me wonder where the big ones come from.

The type 24, 27 and 29s at Walmart are manufactured by Johnson Controls. Before that (8-10 years ago), they were made for Walmart by Exide. I spoke to someone at tech support about getting more specs on the 24, 27, and 29 Walmart batteries and the people at Johnson gave me all the info I needed along with a cross-reference sheet (Johnson #s to Walmart #s). Johnson Controls also makes Interstate, Subaru,Toyota, BMW, Mercedes, VW, Autozone, GM,Optima, Varta, Delphi, etc.

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The Everstart Maxx 24 (46 lbs. for $85) has the most amp-hours, reserve-capacity, and cycle-life. A pair hooked in parallel will provide 228 amp-hours. If you want the most amp-hours and plan on having them hooked in parallel -having two deep-cycle batteries and no "cranking" battery is fine for a small engine like a Toyota has.

jdemaris - Thanks for your input! I went with the 2 - Everstart Maxx 24's and I have them paralleled.

Now I'm in the process of trying to figure out how to read my batteries voltage. Currently my biggest draw is my laptop and when I use it the battery voltage sometimes drops to 12.2 or less, but eventually goes back up to around 12.4 (75%) this is after using it for just 3 hours. Is this normal? I'm just trying to be careful since these are brand new batteries and I don't want to ruin them by taking them down below the 50% mark. From what I have been reading, if I was just using my lap top, I should be able to run it for 6 hours a day for 3 days (30 amp hours approximately) before I drain the batteries to 12.2 (50%). Maybe I'm taking the readings to soon and I need to let the batteries "settle down" a bit before I take the readings.

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A question about running the batteries in parallel.

Parallel Batteries set up

I have my batteries set up like the image, but the image only shows one ground. My current set up is a ground wire to the converter/charger and a truck body ground. I assume that the ground needs to run to my converter/charger so should I disconnect the ground wire from the truck body or leave the truck body ground wire?

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A question about running the batteries in parallel.

I have my batteries set up like the image, but the image only shows one ground. My current set up is a ground wire to the converter/charger and a truck body ground. I assume that the ground needs to run to my converter/charger so should I disconnect the ground wire from the truck body or leave the truck body ground wire?

That is the proper way to do it. A ground is a ground the best ground is a single point ground where every thing connects at one point. If your ground from the converter was connected at the battery reconnect it there but go a head and use a body ground or you run a risk of not charging the coach batteries from the truck charging system and some crazy ground loops. You diagram is the proper method that way the draw down and the recharge will be equal in both batteries. How are you using your laptop? from an inverter? If so I would suggest a DC to DC converter it is a good bit more efficient. You should be able to run your laptop quite awhile most of the modern laptop batteries are about a 4 amp battery and the lap tops should run close to two hours with the laptop battery alone so you should be able to run the laptop days on a good charge in your MH. The worst case I have seen testing laptops is around 45 watts and once booted more like 25 watts if the laptop display is dimable do that the screen is the power hog.

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A question about running the batteries in parallel.

I have my batteries set up like the image, but the image only shows one ground. My current set up is a ground wire to the converter/charger and a truck body ground. I assume that the ground needs to run to my converter/charger so should I disconnect the ground wire from the truck body or leave the truck body ground wire?

Technically that are no grounds in your DC setup. The truck frame is being used as a common carrier for the negative side of your DC circuits. It is a way to save money and run less wire. So, in essence your frame is one big 12 volt negative wire. It makes no difference how many connections you have to the frame. The main issue is that every appliance/load has a large enough conductors between it and the battery for both negative and positive. The ideal way to do it would be to not use the truck frame for anything and just run two wires for every circuit (like in a wood or fiberglass boat) or in a house with AC power. The "ground" in a household is a true ground and does not power anything. In regard to your converter charger - it will have a place for true ground that the AC circuits use and also a DC negative which may or may not be grounded to the truck frame. All depends on the make and model of converter. The main thing is - if it's let's say a 30 amp converter - then it must have two conductors big enough to carry 30 amps to and from the battery or alternator. 10 gauge copper wire is fine for 30 amps up to a little over 20 feet and beyond that 8 or 6 gauge is needed.

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I want to attempt clarify what I stated since I don't know what you know or don't know. The purpose of ground is to protect you, not carry current to or from a load/appliance. Appliances with AC power are usually grounded so current does not decide to make you a conductor and kill you by running power through you as it seeks a path to true ground. Your diagram is showing the symbol of "ground" but really meaning the "common" negative conductor. In regard to your charger -converter . . . if it is a complete converter "power center" it will have a mix of AC and DC circuits inside the same steel box. Subsequently, that box is often required to have a true ground for AC protection. It may or may not require a 2nd connection for DC negative. Motorhomes often have DC negative and AC "safety" ground bolted to the same truck frame so it can get a little confusing. The DC uses the truck frame to save money and extra wiring. The AC ground carries no power (normally) and is there for safety reasons.

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Sorry I made a mistake when I said "ground wire to the converter/charger" (I meant negative battery cable).

How are you using your laptop? from an inverter? If so I would suggest a DC to DC converter it is a good bit more efficient. You should be able to run your laptop quite awhile most of the modern laptop batteries are about a 4 amp battery and the lap tops should run close to two hours with the laptop battery alone so you should be able to run the laptop days on a good charge in your MH. The worst case I have seen testing laptops is around 45 watts and once booted more like 25 watts if the laptop display is dimable do that the screen is the power hog.

I'm using an inverter, although I will have to look into the DC to DC converter, that makes sense. Your also correct about the lap top power usage. I'm averaging 30 - 35 because I use the DVD player a lot in the evening and I have dimmed the screen already (good point).

The main thing is - if it's let's say a 30 amp converter - then it must have two conductors big enough to carry 30 amps to and from the battery or alternator. 10 gauge copper wire is fine for 30 amps up to a little over 20 feet and beyond that 8 or 6 gauge is needed.

I have a 25 amp converter. I will have to check to see what the wire gauge is.

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Before they decided on AC in homes DC was used also, to this day the - on a DC circuit is still considered ground and marked so on circuit diagrams it is interchangeable. It is not a good plan to land a ground, minus if you like all over the frame a single point ground is far better. The DC ground or return or minus or what ever you wish to call it and the AC ground can and often are landed in the same place on the frame. A 25 amp converter would be best served with a #8 wire you could get by with a #10 but for a dollar more you can use a #8.

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I've worked on a few early DC systems in households installed in the 1920s. I also still have the original "Delco-Light" diagrams. No grounds shown in them anywhere. I own a complete working system here at home along with the one-cylinder electric plant and glass-jar batteries.

As I understand it - the DC lighting Thomas Edison installed for the Vanderbuilts in the 1880s also used no grounds.

I think it was the telegraph industry that first attempted to save money and wire and using the earth as a common carrier instead of another long wire. They had many problems with it due to dry ground and bad grounds. I suspect it was that system that led to some people using the ground symbol as representing a common carrier in a DC circuit instead of an "earth ground." But - I'm talking US circuitry. Canada may have been different. I know that after the Telsa-Westinghouse AC system became more common - much of Canada chose 50 cycle instead of the Hertz 60 cycle. Maybe DC was used differently there too.

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You must be talking some really ancient history because I've NEVER heard mention of 50Hz in Canada.

No, not a all. I'm listen to a 50 cycle Canadian radio right now. It's a VIKING sold by Teaton Ltd. of Canada. Model 49-82W radio/phongraph. Standrard broadcast and short wave. 120 volt 50 cycle and the manual says it was also avaialble as 25 cycle. I'm not sure of the year it was sold but . ; it has a WARNING on it. It says . . . the owner MUST have a license from the Minister of Transport of Canada to use. If caught using with no license, the radio will be "forfeited to His Majesty.

The radio works fine on USA 60 cycle but the 12" record player does not.

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there are more energy efficient ways to play DVDs....just saying

So please do tell, what are some of the "other" ways to play DVD's more efficiently.

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I'll have to keep my eyes open for one of those at the Flea Market.

Timothy Eaton - one of Canada's great retailers. Not sure why they chose to call the 'House' Brand' name of 'Viking'.

I just noticed that the schematic is dated 1948. Not all that old. What the heck was going in in Canada later-40s, early 60s that required a person to need a license to just listen to the darn radio??

I know there are many liberals in the USA that would to require a license to listen to Rush Limbaugh, Glen Beck, Mike Savage, Michael Barry, etc.

Note the image titles "warning."

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So please do tell, what are some of the "other" ways to play DVD's more efficiently.

Obviously I'm not Karin Corbin and don't know what her reference was.

My 19" LCD-TV runs on 38 watts watching a DVD.

My 14" laptop runs on 32-39 watts while watching a DVD and hooked to the grid.

My 14" laptop when plugged into an inverter runs on 42 watts when watching a DVD.

All minimal differences except the laptop has a smaller screen.

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I have a automobile AM/FM/DVD dashmount player installed in the coach. The Video Out goes to a 13 in LCD TV that hangs on the wall.

Great for movies, watching TV or listening to the radio.

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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I just noticed that the schematic is dated 1948. Not all that old. What the heck was going in in Canada later-40s, early 60s that required a person to need a license to just listen to the darn radio??

I know there are many liberals in the USA that would to require a license to listen to Rush Limbaugh, Glen Beck, Mike Savage, Michael Barry, etc.

Note the image titles "warning."

It was not that long ago England had licensed radios. As far as Rush I would pay not to listen to him. Please note the left prong on the diagram is tied to an earth ground as was the antenna. It also was a common problem with the old radios to give one a nasty shock some times if the plug was inserted backwards before the plugs were polarized. Old generating systems had no neutral the ground was the return.

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As far as Rush I would pay not to listen to him.

We certainly don't agree about Rush, He's been rock-solid consistent over the years and a pretty good intellect. Also taken out of context and/or misquoted constantly by other's envious of his talents.

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I have a automobile AM/FM/DVD dashmount player installed in the coach. The Video Out goes to a 13 in LCD TV that hangs on the wall.

Great for movies, watching TV or listening to the radio.

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

So do you know what amount of wattage your using? My laptop is using an average of about 30-40 watts.

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I don't know the power consumption for these items, I do know they are phantom loads when turned off (they aren't really OFF). I installed a standard ole home light switch under the cabinet, My phantom loads (TV, radio, Bluetooth GPS) get their power thru that switch. that way I can really turn them off and make sure there is no power going to them.

The TV is High Def, Analog, and also is a monitor (VGA and Video in)

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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