Derek up North Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 You mentioned elsewhere that those seats are from an Acura. Do you happen to remember what year and model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 No...in fact I might even be lying. I went to a guys house in Missoula who had a little mini-junkyard going in his backyard. Mostly 90s Hondas and Acuras. I was looking for Acura seats, since I figured they'd be a little nicer than straight up Honda. But I know I went back & forth between a couple cars, and the ones in the Honda may have actually turned out to be the nicer ones. I don't quite remember any more, but I like saying Acura since it's fancier than Honda. And they're essentially the same thing. I think that conventional wisdom is that early 90s Acura and Honda seats fit well with minimal modifications, and are a huge upgrade for 70's-90's Toyota pickups. My guess would be that any seats from whatever style cars Honda/Acura was making around the late 80's and early 90's would be more or less the same, especially as far as size and how the tracks/mounts work. Everyone else I've seen so far, though, has either welded something to make them fit, or drilled new holes in the cab, or made some sort of bracket to get them to fit. I was very excited when I realized that my idea of just swapping the tracks over from the old seats to the new would work, and work so well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 I've been waiting until a bunch more work finished up to post more, but I figure I'll get a little update together. Here's the ceiling. Plywood, foam insulation on the back, upholstery foam padding on the front with vinyl stretched over it. It got cold again in April...so this was my setup for sealing the walls, and putting on insulation and foam. LED conversion. Two of them I soldered in, the other two are just LEDs that connect into the old bulb location. Soon this will all be installed...can't wait to see how different that feels. And the walls up. A lot more is all set up to go in, but I just need to wait on a couple things. It'll start coming together pretty quickly. I'm framing in the cabinet for the fridge/stove/furnace now. Takes a while since I'm really not a carpenter. But I can tell that what I'm doing will work, so it's exciting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusker Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Looks like it's coming together nicely! You'll have this thing on the road in no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Soon this will all be installed...can't wait to see how different that feels. IMG_1308.JPG What make and part # springs did you get? I know I gave you info on them (for the rear of a Saab). But -in the photo of those springs something doesn't look right. Maybe it's just the photo? Those springs are supposed to have one end "square' and one end "tangential." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 They're from the rock auto link you posted... Pretty sure both ends are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 Rockwell RV 205 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 Do you have a photo of what they should look like? Would be cool to know if I have the right ones before starting the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunrading Arkansas Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Your Chinook is really coming along, cool stuff! Love the Accura/Honda seat swap, might have to consider that - 2-3hrs consecutive is about all I can handle with the stock seats befor I have to get out and walk around. May try some 4runner seats too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Yeah, my original seats were terrible! Up to you, but if it were me, I'd be looking at the 84-88/9 pickup and 4runner seats, if you're set on sticking with Toyota. My 86 pickup had great seats with lots of adjustments. With the new body style (89 for pickups, 90 for 4runners) came seats with thicker backs. Arguably more comfortable, but you start losing leg room. The 90s 4runner seats almost won't fit in my 83 4x4. But if you found nice ones and aren't so tall that you can't afford to lose a couple inches of leg room, you'd probably be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 Progress... A lot has happened that I'm skipping over or don't have photos of. Electrical system is almost ready to hook up. Propane system is almost done. I put on a new water pump, oil pump, radiator, plus plugs, wires, cap & rotor. Cab. New seats, carpet, stereo and speakers. Interior coming together. Looks more together than it really is...I'm obviously not done with cabinets and all that, but I'm still trying to use it on weekends! So I throw everything in for a weekend. It looks way better, though. Roof rack for the canoe. Will be fun getting it up there... New roof vent installed. Can't really see, but also the new tires and wheels are on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusker Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Wow, looks awesome. Have any plans for a long trip anytime soon? How hard was the oil pump install?How did you attach the roof racks? I'm afraid to do that to mine because I doubt the canopy can handle having any kind of weight on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 Just got back from a weekend with it, about 200 miles each way. It does great. Longer trip in September, out to Colorado for a week. Oil pump is pretty easy. Crank pulley bolt is a pain, but it's all pretty straightforward I got it all through Thule on some online site. I bought the kind of feet that attach to rain gutters, then bought Thule's artificial rain gutter brackets. Drilled 8 holes in my ceiling... Can't think of another better way to get a rack up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusker Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 What kind of mileage did you get? You have the 20r, right? As for the oil pump, does the crank pulley have a specific position when you reinstall it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 Yep, 20R. I didn't calculate this trip...but when I bought it and drove it home from Seattle I got 17-20mpg. Nope, you just screw it back in. I hate the "starter bump method" of getting it off, so I just put the transmission in 5th, chocked the wheels, and got a 3-4' breaker bar on it. Just don't do what I did my first time doing that bolt...make sure when it finally breaks free and you have hundreds of pounds of force on it, that you don't slam your knuckles into the truck...Almost needed stitches on that one. Better to line yourself up so you're pulling on the breaker, rather than pushing. Just don't smack yourself in the face with the bar, either.. For oil and water pump, just keep track of the bolts. Do both pumps, if you're going to do one. As you loosen each bolt, don't take it all the way out. When you get the pump out, keep the bolts in their respective holes, so when you put the new one in, you know which bolts go in which holes. With a couple of them, IT MATTERS. And don't over torque. Clean all the oil off the front of your engine while you're at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusker Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 That is what I was hoping to hear. Since I'm in the process of desmogging my 20r, I'm also going to replace a few things while I have everything torn apart. How is the rust situation on yours? I have a few areas that are rusty and I'm hoping to take care of them before the weather gets bad. I just picked up some POR15 and I'm prepping the areas now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 It's worse than any other vehicle I've had, but not terrible. Frame is solid. The hood has a small hole through it, and the body around the hood is getting rusty. I don't have much for body work skills... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusker Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Well, if you ever wanted to tackle it I would look into POR15. I'm currently debating in covering my entire engine bay with it, but I'm going to sand away the paint and evaluate the overall condition. Hopefully I can just repaint it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 Yeah I've heard a lot about it for frames. I did sand down my mirror mounts, and the doors where they are screwed in, and repaint those. Looks way better, but I have no idea how long it will last... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyDeezNutzz Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Cool good to see what my internal frame looks like!! Just picked her up on Friday and I have a lot to learn! Certainly need to beef up the suspension! Are both the ignition battery and auxiliary battery connected to the alternator in this motor home? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 Nice username... Yes...unless someone messed with it. Your alternator should connect to a battery isolator, probably screwed into the drivers side of the engine compartment. The alternator should connect to the middle post, then each battery to each of the other two posts. Unless someone messed with it. I had a shop add one leaf to each side of my rear spring packs. If I had it to do over again, I'd either buy a whole new spring pack and add a leaf to it before installing, or add two leaves to the stock pack on each side. I gained a lot of height at first with the one leaf, but it settled in really quickly. I had it really loaded down for the first time this past weekend (four people and all our stuff + a canoe) and it was riding pretty low. I may have the shop add another leaf. The one leaf, plus new shocks and springs in in the front, COMPLETELY took care of the high-speed side to side sway I was getting on the interstate. I had major sway, especially when I'd pass a semi coming from the other direction. So I'd say one added leaf in the back plus new springs and shocks in the front took care of the safety issues, but I'm not quite "there" yet as far as how I want the suspension to feel, and how high I want the back end to sit. I'm no expert, but I've pretty much been through the whole vehicle at this point...so if you have any questions, feel free to ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 So I'd say one added leaf in the back plus new springs and shocks in the front took care of the safety issues, but I'm not quite "there" yet as far as how I want the suspension to feel, and how high I want the back end to sit. Sounds like you're a candidate for a set of air springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Welcome back! From wherever you went. From what I hear, the ones that fit older little trucks like mine are crap. Rupture easily; not worth the money or effort. So I'm just going with add-a-leaves for now...or like I mentioned, I might even buy all new spring packs, and put my add-a-leaf into them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Lose the add a leaf, use your old front springs and do a Zuk mod spring http://www.yotatech.com/f116/1st-gen-4runner-zuk-mod-diy-how-lots-o-photos-207564/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Pretty nice! I like that there's no welding. I don't have the equipment to do that at home, though, and shops that do fabrication are not cheap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 A nice simple solution IF you happen to install the right coil springs. Too strong and you could end up with an extra foot of lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Foot might be excessive...6" would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 6"? Then you might be over-extending your standard shocks which will damage them. And you'd have to park on an up-slope for your fridge to be level (if you have one). The old domino effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Adding 6" wouldn't be a problem if that's what you really want. Just need to add some space blocks (like Dodge does OEM) . For shocks you can add longer ones or make extensions for the ones you have now. I just lowered my truck by 6" by taking those d*mn blocks out (not a Toyota). 78 Chinook came OEM five thin leafs plus one helper on each side. I added two thicker leaves per side and it made a huge difference. on my 78 Chinook. Seems just right. In fact, I had also put in spring-assist Monroe shocks and took them back out. Decided I don't need them. If you want the Monroes at a cheap price -let me know. Brand new. They will probably raise your rig an inch. I also added the stabilizer bar in the rear on my 78, Came from an 87 1 ton Toyota - as did the dually rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 A trip to a Harbor Freight will get you the tools you need cheap. Take your old front springs and cut them down until they are the length you need to give you a level or what ever Toy. Like you said no welding just simple tools and a jack. WME Pretty nice! I like that there's no welding.I don't have the equipment to do that at home, though, and shops that do fabrication are not cheap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 I tried jacking it with a floor jack a couple months back and got nowhere, but maybe with a more heavy duty jack I could. 6" is probably an exaggeration. 3-4" would do it. How it sat when the one add-a-leaf was first installed would have been perfect. I'm already too high for stock shocks, unless the ones I bought were listed wrong. Mechanic said they were too short. I think I have a link to shocks someone from the chinook group used after adding two leaves to each side. I don't think I'll be doing any fabricating. I will probably add one more leaf to each side, or like I mentioned, if I'm feeling rich I might buy whole new spring packs and stick my add-a-leaf in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Oh, and I've heard enough horror stories about blocks that I have no interest in doing that. I just want a beefed up suspension with a little more height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyDeezNutzz Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 MontanaChinook I love your roof rack!! I was wondering if the fiberglass shell could support my weight on the roof. and what is the roof piece in the rear passenger side. I thought mine was a drain for some reason since it splits into my sink drain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Thanks. I like it too. Made it look a lot more modern! No, I would NOT trust the roof with my weight, and I'm only about 150. That's your grey water tank vent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyDeezNutzz Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 I can't post pics from my pc on this forum? ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.