1982 22R will NOT start cold without starter fluid in carburetor. Once started she runs like a champ! How can I fix this starting issue?

[zero]

Instead of a human depressing the accelerator couldn't I do it myself by just turning the linkage on the side of the carb?

Yes, operating the linkage by hand on the carb is the way to do it. There is a wound-up clock-spring that snaps the choke closed when you push the gas pedal to the floor (when cold). When hot - the "clockspring" has no tension and the choke stays open. That's because it is heat-sensitive bi-metal. If the spring breaks - the choke cannot work.

Holding the gas pedal to the floor on a carbed vehicle is how you unflood it - when needed. Crank the engine with the gas pedal all the way down. It lets more air in AND forces the choke open. On electric fuel injected vehicles it is the opposite. Hold the pedal down and the engine floods. Cold starting is also the opposite. That's why younger people who have never driven a carbed vehicle sometimes can't get them started in the cold. Everything is "back -as*wards."

If you get farting around checking the choke, do NOT do it with the ignition key on. When the key is "On" there is probably an electric heater working in your choke and it will stop the choke from working even if the engine stays cold. That was added for emissions. Older cars and trucks had chokes that only opened as the engines warmed up. Newer cars and trucks have chokes that open by time or heat - which ever happens first.

[Stevo]

After all this discussion (and thank you everyone!) about why this wouldn't start from cold without spraying carb cleaner in the carb, I sprayed the heck out of the linkage yesterday with WD40 a couple times and worked everything manually and now she starts up pretty fast when cold without using starter fluid - YAY!

While idling, if I stomp on the gas hard and fast (much harder and faster than I would ever do while driving) it will bog down and stall if I don't let up on the gas. Does anyone have any ideas why this could be happening? I don't think it was doing this before I got the choke working and before I did the Seafoam. (A couple weeks ago I put Seafoam in the carb, gas tank, and in the engine and then drove it about 20 miles...then I changed the oil and pcv valve.) Since I haven't driven it since then, could it be the Seafoam in the 1/2 tank of gas that is causing this?

[zero]

After all this discussion (and thank you everyone!) about why this wouldn't start from cold without spraying carb cleaner in the carb, I sprayed the heck out of the linkage yesterday with WD40 a couple times and worked everything manually and now she starts up pretty fast when cold without using starter fluid - YAY!

While idling, if I stomp on the gas hard and fast (much harder and faster than I would ever do while driving) it will bog down and stall if I don't let up on the gas. Does anyone have any ideas why this could be happening? I don't think it was doing this before I got the choke working and before I did the Seafoam. (A couple weeks ago I put Seafoam in the carb, gas tank, and in the engine and then drove it about 20 miles...then I changed the oil and pcv valve.) Since I haven't driven it since then, could it be the Seafoam in the 1/2 tank of gas that is causing this?

I keep hearing about Sea Foam and wondering why so many people think it fixes problems. I'm a skeptic. I'm not a believer in any chemical fixing a genuine mechanical problem.

Your carb works like this when cold. You push the gas pedal to the floor at least once. That sends a charge of liquid gasoline into the intake and also triggers the choke closed.

Then . . . the second the engine starts - vacuum forces the choke open to a preset setting. When you then rev the engine cold - the combination of the choke being nearly closed and the accelerator pump squirting raw fuel into the engine makes it run rich enough to work well. Also if cold enough - the aux accelerator pump helps richen the cold mixture. On some engines there is also a temp sensor that tells the ignition to advance the timing more when cold.

If your engine is bogging when cold - at least one of the things I mentioned is not happening. The accel pump is the most common issue on worn carbs. You also need to look at your choke after the engine starts but is still cold and see how far it is opening. If you mess around too long with the IGN on, an electric choke heater might screw up your test.

[zero]

Also make sure the igniton timing is advancing as it should when you rev it. Retarded advance will also make it bog when you hit the pedal cold. A common problem on diesels but also on older gas engines with mechanical timing advance controls.

[Stevo]

Ok I will check that stuff. Thanks.

[Stevo]

And since you mentioned something about Seafoam... I don't know what else is in Seafoam but the stuff smells just like rubbing alcohol. Maybe I should have bought a bottle of rubbing alcohol at Walmart for $2.00 instead of spending $8.00 per bottle on Seafoam!

[Derek up North]

Sea Foam MSDS says:

Pale Oil 40-60%
Naphtha 25-35%
IPA 10-20%

http://www.mta.ca/administration/facilities/safety/msds/Grounds/Seafoam%20Auto%20Marine%20Engine%20treatment%20-%20SeaFoam%20Sales%20Co.%202010.pdf

[Stevo]

I wonder if its the IPA stuff that smells like rubbing alcohol?

[Derek up North]

Isopropyl Alcohol

[Stevo]

Hah hah, I didn't bother googling "IPA" but I figured thats what it was cuz I knew it didn't smell like a good IPA beer!

[Maineah]

I would never pour a good IPA in any engine!

[Bunneys]

I would never pour a good IPA in any engine!

I agree ! :-) -- Now i'm thirsty and i just started work...

One other thing to look at here... I had a 1981 Toyota PU that did the same thing, it took me forever to find out that the fuel line had a small leak somewhere. I think it was on a clamp that was not squishing enough. Anyways, it was allowing the fuel to slowly drain back to the tank. When starting the pump did not have enough "pull" to get it back up from the tank so it would not start. I had to use gas that i poured directly into the carb to get it going. If i left it for more than a few days, I would have to do this every time.

Andrew.

[zero]

I agree ! :-) -- Now i'm thirsty and i just started work...

One other thing to look at here... I had a 1981 Toyota PU that did the same thing, it took me forever to find out that the fuel line had a small leak somewhere. I think it was on a clamp that was not squishing enough. Anyways, it was allowing the fuel to slowly drain back to the tank. When starting the pump did not have enough "pull" to get it back up from the tank so it would not start. I had to use gas that i poured directly into the carb to get it going. If i left it for more than a few days, I would have to do this every time.

Andrew.

That was a common problem in GM and Ford diesel cars and trucks back in the 80s-90s (fuel drain back). Not usually so common in gas vehicles with mechanical fuel pumps (that have check valves). I'm not sure how it happens in a Toyota with electric pump in the tank. Seems even if the fuel drains back and the fuel line is full of air - the carb is still full of fuel from when last driven. How does the carb bowl get empty? You mention "pull" so I assume your truck had a front mounted mechanical pump. They can be tricky because when a rear fuel line leaks - it's often a vacuum leak and it goes unnoticed (no fuel dripping on the ground). Did your's not start . . or did it start and then die? Carb ought to have a full bowl of fuel when turned off.

[unknowing aussie]

Sorry I might be not even on the right path and probably should have read more of what has been posted.

I have owned many toyota with both aisin and nikki carb on models from the early 60' to the 80's although I have very limited knowledge of the 20, 21 and 22r as they were not common here in Australia.

One of the frustrating things of some here were the auto choke and many here deactivated them as it dose not get cold enough here in most places to have a choke and moreso one that comes on every time you start up unless it is hot already.The auto choke were prone to sticking and thus increase fuel consumption and at now rough 6 a gallon soon got ditched and were replaced by a few pumps of the pedal on a cold day, snow is not real common here either, so just looking at this site as a learner and thought I might put my two cents in.

Edited March 5, 2013 by unknowing aussie

[zero]

Sorry I might be not even on the right path and probably should have read more of what has been posted.

I have owned many toyota with both aisin and nikki carb on models from the early 60' to the 80's although I have very limited knowledge of the 20, 21 and 22r as they were not common here in Australia.

One of the frustrating things of some here were the auto choke and many here deactivated them as it dose not get cold enough here in most places to have a choke and moreso one that comes on every time you start up unless it is hot already.The auto choke were prone to sticking and thus increase fuel consumption and at now rough 6 a gallon soon got ditched and were replaced by a few pumps of the pedal on a cold day, snow is not real common here either, so just looking at this site as a learner and thought I might put my two cents in.

Autochokes can screw up on any engine and in any climate. That being said, when working properly- the autochoke does not close the choke every time you start the engine. The bi-metal choke coil spring only closes when it's cold enough to need a choke. The second the engine starts - the vacuum "unloader" pulls it part-way open. That of course, when all is working properly. Later emissions engines got electric heater coils added to the chokes to speed up opening.

I don't know what kind of temps you get - but a gas engine works better with a choke even when only 50 degrees F outside. I've had many with no chokes - but cold starting was then dependent on the accelerator pump squirting enough raw gas into the intake to start. Once running, the engine is very lean when cold with no choke and takes some "pumping" of the pedal to accelerator until warmed up.

[Bunneys]

That was a common problem in GM and Ford diesel cars and trucks back in the 80s-90s (fuel drain back). Not usually so common in gas vehicles with mechanical fuel pumps (that have check valves). I'm not sure how it happens in a Toyota with electric pump in the tank. Seems even if the fuel drains back and the fuel line is full of air - the carb is still full of fuel from when last driven. How does the carb bowl get empty? You mention "pull" so I assume your truck had a front mounted mechanical pump. They can be tricky because when a rear fuel line leaks - it's often a vacuum leak and it goes unnoticed (no fuel dripping on the ground). Did your's not start . . or did it start and then die? Carb ought to have a full bowl of fuel when turned off.

Yes, you are right. Front mounted mechanical pump. It is driven by the camshaft. The pump has three hoses to/from it. one from the tank, another back to the tank and one to the carb. I had a problem on the one from the tank... the clamp was not clamping and the hose was worn yada yada... causing the fuel to drain back to the tank over a few days... when i would try and start it I don't remember it almost starting... I just remember it not starting until I primed it with gas again. This was in the mid to late 80's so my memory is working hard :-) I do remember that my fuel filter would be empty as well... that was easy to check, just remove it from the holder on the fender, it will be light and empty.

Hope it helps!

Andrew.