aptruncata Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Hello folks, I've tried a search on types of trusses available to correct a saggin roof on a 84 rader and was unable to find any specifics as to what can be used and where it can be purchased. I've noticed one person used steel rails and another used aluminum. With possible future leaks, i wouldn't consider wood of any kind. I would like to use materials that are rust proof, relatively light in weight, sturdy and can be readily purchased at the local hardware store. I'm planning a summer project to remove the cabinets and use the warm weather to push the sag up over couple of days and redoing the rotted wood trusses. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 I just got done fixing my sagging roof on my Chinook. On the Chinook roof there is 1" of room for supports between the fiberglass outer layer and the inside ceiling layer. I used 1" square aluminum tubing 1/8" thick. It bends to a nice arc if needed. A Sunrader only has 5/8" of space if you want the supports hidden between the two layers. For that, 1/2" X 1" or maybe 3/4" x 1 1/2" rectangular aluminum tubing would do the job nicely. www.speedymetals cuts to the inch size and ships UPS so no local store necessary. http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4665-8364-1-x-12-x-18-wall-rect-tube-6063-t52-aluminum.aspx http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4666-8364-1-12-x-34-x-18-wall-rect-tube-6063-t52-aluminum.aspx If the supports do not have to be hidden, I would not hesitate to make supports from dried treated plywood fiberglassed in with epoxy resin. On end, plywood is extremely strong. 1/2" or 3/4" treated (rot resistant) southern yellow pine plywood treated plywood would last longer then your Sunrader in regard to rotting. Only slight problem is that most local stores sell it wet -and not dry. So you either have to dry it yourself before installing - or special order some dry stuff. Foundation-grade plywood is pressure treated and dried after and ready to use. Most places have to special order it (not a stock item). Primary used for house foundations and the decks of pontoon boats. I just special orderd some 3/8" Douglas Fir marine pressure-treated plywood and had it in a week. Kiln dried after being treated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Or you could tackle the problem from the other end (which I'm sure you will) and just make sure there are no future leaks. At least with a Sunrader you're half way there before you even start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 My Sunrader has a slight dip but it's sealed and I don't have a problem with it. Park on a slight slope and the water doesn't accumilate. I have considered making a roof beamlike the newer sunraders had but I don't want to remove the cabinets so it would have to be installed in 2 pieces and connected in the middle. Cedar so it looked nice or metal that I would cover with foam and headliner. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 I seem to remember a thread months ago were this was talked about. I made a recommendation of putting the beam on the roof and fiberglassing it to the roof.Maybe do a forum search on sunrader roof. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aptruncata Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 @jdemaris, thanks for the links it's almost exactly what i was looking for. Did you use any special tool to bend the aluminum tubing? I would think they're a lot harder to shape than regular conduits. @derek, please explain what you mean by "the other end". @linda, i've been using the park on a slope method while not in use and works great to divert the water off the roof before it accumulates. The problem is, when i'm on level ground and while camping in the rain. The previous owners had caked on silicone after silicone around the main vent and i really don't want to turn a blind-eye to the situation by caking another layer of dicor over the whole thing, when i clearly know it's a bad seal and there's wood rot between the roof and the interior. ( or should i?) @john, i've read the post you talk about and saw your recommendation to have a beam on the exterior with fiberglass over it. However, there is wood rot around the vent, layers of bad silicone seals and a concave roof to top it off so i thought if i'm going to tackle the interior issue as well, might as well go the whole 9 yards and put in new trusses, seals and paneling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Just saying that using wood for support is not a problem if it doesn't get leaked on. Using aluminum would be great if you didn't plan to stop the leak. But I'm sure you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 @jdemaris, thanks for the links it's almost exactly what i was looking for. Did you use any special tool to bend the aluminum tubing? I would think they're a lot harder to shape than regular conduits. I had jacks on the floor pushing up on the aluminum tubing stuck above. Pushed it into the contour of the roof and got the perfect arc I needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 No I don't use dicor type sealants. it did rain on my head one night and I had to get on the roof in the pouring rain but I had put all new vents in and mistakenly used putty tape to seal them. Only a couple of years later it had dried out enough to leak. When I got home I removed every vent and resealed with butyl tape. 5 years later no leaks anywhere even when there is a puddle up there. Ya gotta get all that old crap off and seal it right Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Go to a library or your gearhead friend. Get a copy of Hot Rod magazine Jan 2013. Go to pg 64, that's how you make proper roof supports. Also cruse on over to www.yellowdogextrusion.com and look at their channels and tubing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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