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Brand new newb with dumb questions


wishingriver

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I just got a 1981 Toyota Dolphin today and I wanted to know if the lights only work on shore power? I think I found the break box under the sink area? If it does only work on shore power how could I setup my own battery bank to be off-grid for longer periods of time? How do you start the refrigerator and the heater using gas? I would ask the previous owner but he wanted it gone that day b/c he was moving and sold it pennies on the dollar but signed the title over and he had to finish packing so I'm stuck here brand new to the whole r.v. idea and clueless like a hog in a corn farm lol so please help I want to hit the ground running so I can take my family camping soon lol

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Welcome, to the forums - search these forums for your answers. there are hundreds of postings that should make for hours of reading a research .

1) - Full floating rear axle - Read up on it on this site. make sure yours has been retrofitted, understand the risks if it hasn't

2) Your lights should work on coach battery (see attached simplified drawing for how electrical systems interconnect)

post-4544-0-56996300-1346581726_thumb.jp

3) Frig - make sure your MH is level, and get it to work on shore power first (select ELEC) on the frig (depends on model)

4) Furnace - Depends on model, I would make sure the stove works first, to check the basic propane systems, then onto frig and furnace. If your doing a lot of boondocking, I would consider a WAVE3 or WAVE6 for heat. the furnace is not efficient

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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All the interior lights from the Factory are 12v and run off a 2nd (coach) battery. If you've bought a bargain, perhaps there's none installed (or it's not charging). They should work not plugged in to shore power. Same goes for the water pump.

Most fridges installed operate on propane and 110v. Less common are fridges that operate on propane, 110v and 12v.

A good place to start would be to go to each 'system' (fridge, stove, etc) and get the Make and Model. A Google search will usually turn up a Manual (Owner's & Operating).

A good 1st purchase is a Multimeter. Wiring (original and owner mods) often cause problems.

Good luck with your new Toy.

Remember: "How do you eat an elephant?" "One bite at a time."

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Wishingriver, I hope you got a good deal out of it and hope the home is in good operating condition. That being said it would have taken the owner only 15 minutes to explain the basics.

Derek are 12v lights not supposed to work when you plug into shore power?

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Wishingriver, I hope you got a good deal out of it and hope the home is in good operating condition. That being said it would have taken the owner only 15 minutes to explain the basics.

Derek are 12v lights not supposed to work when you plug into shore power?

Yes of course they should work when plugged into 110 . You have a power center with a converter to charge your battery and also power all 12 volt appliances.

Linda S

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As Derek said check the simple stuff does it really have a coach battery? It should. A volt meter is a valuable asset being able to understand what it is telling you also. The converter/charger should do both charge the battery and light the lights and every thing 12 volts when you unplug the battery should take over. You are dealing with an antique many people may have laid hands on it so any thing goes from no battery to a toes up converter and even creative wiring if you don't understand wiring you'll need to make friends with some one that does. So check up on the battery if it has one take it out have it charged and tested then go from there.

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I'm unclear at this point if they do or don't work when plugged in. I'd assumed that he hadn't plugged in yet and had only tried the lights unplugged.

actually the converter does not power the lights and the watrer pump.

It connects to the coach battery through the 15 amp line, and the coach battery powers the lights.

If there wasnt a battery there you COULD power the lights and water pump by connecting those two wires.

the converter box out has only goes to the plugs, the AC and charges the battery ( dont do it that way its bad)

it is my opinion that this set up is a fire hazard as is.

the converter box never stops charging the battery so in the end it will blow up.

in related news Ive never found the fuses to the internal lights or the water pump, or the clock ( if so equipped)

I still need to look that up for myself.

THIS IS ENTIRELY FOR THE DOLPHIN AND VARIOUS COPY MODELS

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You should be able to run shore power, even with the coach battery disconnected.

The "Converter" does several jobs;

1) It serves as the 120 Vac distribution panel (Like the Circuit breaker panel in your house)

2) It serves as the 12 Vdc distribution / fuse panel. 12 Vdc power to lights, furnace, water pump, etc

3) It supplies 12 Vdc when Shore Power it plugged in. This 12 Vdc power supply is used to charge the battery and also supply power to the various items that can be run off 12 Vdc , i.e. lights, furnace, etc. If your going to be on shore power for any long period (months), I would recommend disconnecting the coach battery to keep from cooking it. (unless you have a new style three stage converter). I use a 3 inch piece of garden hose I push over the "PLUS" battery cable to keep it from accidentally shorting when I disconnect it for the winter.

The standard "Converter" is not a very good battery charger and will in time cook your battery if left on shore power for extended periods of time.

I would venture a guess that your coach battery is dead, and probably is cooked. Your going to prevent the new coach battery from getting cooked, because you have information that the previous owner didn't have. :-)

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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You should be able to run shore power, even with the coach battery disconnected.

The "Converter" does several jobs;

1) It serves as the 120 Vac distribution panel (Like the Circuit breaker panel in your house)

2) It serves as the 12 Vdc distribution / fuse panel. 12 Vdc power to lights, furnace, water pump, etc

3) It supplies 12 Vdc when Shore Power it plugged in. This 12 Vdc power supply is used to charge the battery and also supply power to the various items that can be run off 12 Vdc , i.e. lights, furnace, etc. If your going to be on shore power for any long period (months), I would recommend disconnecting the coach battery to keep from cooking it. (unless you have a new style three stage converter). I use a 3 inch piece of garden hose I push over the "PLUS" battery cable to keep it from accidentally shorting when I disconnect it for the winter.

The standard "Converter" is not a very good battery charger and will in time cook your battery if left on shore power for extended periods of time.

I would venture a guess that your coach battery is dead, and probably is cooked. Your going to prevent the new coach battery from getting cooked, because you have information that the previous owner didn't have. :-)

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

I agree, as I have had times when my coach battery had been drained completely, and when the switch was in the battery position, the coach lights would not work even when plugged in. As soon as I changed to shore power position they did work. If the battery always ran the coach lights even when plugged in, they still would not work until the battery was charged back up. I agree the converter does run thru the battery circuit and does charge the battery, but as you stated, the battery does not always run the coach lights or 12V.

I always use a deep cycle battery; they are more robust, and designed to receive multiple recharges once drained. Great information and comments.

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ok you know when you feel like a dumbass I found the breaker box but automatically assumed that was for shore power or battery well right in front under the sink is a switch between battery or converter and a switch for the water pump so I hooked up the shore power and lights came on but I checked the battery and I have one car battery and one deep cycle but the deep cycle is fried (pulled it out and wont hold a charge) but the good news is it runs, no leaks and I paid $1k for it lol now I just gotta figure out if my motor has power steering (dont think so b/c its hard to turn at slow speeds and can't find where to put fluid for it lol) and undoing what the previous owner did and linking wires unneeded wires (linked the deep cycle directly to alot of unneeded stuff like a amp that's not there lol) I'm learning day by day by carefully trying not to fry myself or blow myself up lol for the gas I haven't used it really b/c I think I need to open the tank up first and then start using the gas but so far all the lights work on shore power and I think the heater comes on when I hook up shore power b/c there's a sound coming from the passenger/rear area where the heater is at. but there's three questions: is there anyway to repair a black water tank b/c whenever I use water, it leaks out the back and with it being 81 parts are no where. any suggestions are helpful. When I look at the motor it has the old carburetor with round filter the question is the air coming in from the side is there suppose to be a filter where it comes in too? Has any1 installed solar yet on their roof and if so how did you bolt it to the roof i.e. is there studs running length wise to bolt them to? (I plan to be off grid completely and rv full time) thank you all for all the great comments, maybe someday I'll show someone the way so they don't get the shock treatment I did lol

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Sounds like some creative wiring to me you should not have to turn on any switches to power up your 12 volt stuff from either source. The water pump yes because it's not a good ideal to leave it on. If the charger/converter is the original first of all it is a terrible battery charger very low charge rate unregulated supply that will cook the battery left plugged in long term. Inside of the old units is a 12 volt transfer switch it is DPDT 30 amp relay when there is no city power it is connected to the battery through the relay. When you plug it in the relay closes disconnects the battery from the coach wiring and connects the 12 volt output form the converter to the coach wiring and the battery to the charger. The converter/charger has two circuits inside one charges the battery (poorly) the other supplies 12 volt power to the coach that was the technology at the time . Quite often the relay contacts would burn and jamb the relay then when you unplugged the MH you had no 12 volts from the battery because the relay was stuck in the off mode so it sounds like some one over came the problem with a switch.

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Ya there's a switch for the water pump and converter right under the sink on the outside of the wood but there's a switch by the door but no clue what it goes too lol. Look's like the last owner had or tried hooking up an amp behind seat so I gotta rip out those wires and there's a large relay or box (?) in between the deep cycle and the firewall but good news is tomorrow I'll take pics of it all so that way it will give 100x more info so you can identify it lol

but I just wanted to thank all of you guys b/c you have no idea how stressed was that I bought a Toyota frame lol

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