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Hi. I'm looking for some advice for my '88 Toyota Sunrader - 22RE. A few months ago it stalled while driving, and we couldn't get it started again. I had it towed to a mechanic and he got it started no problem, and could not reproduce the problem, so he gave me a tune up... new spark plugs, fuel filter, new belts, and a a new battery. On the way home it stalled again, but started again after a minute. He told me he didn't know why and to put gas in it. After a few more short drives, it stalled again on the highway, but started up again after about 10 mins of continually trying. It was still turning over just fine. Once started it ran fine. I didn't know what to do.

Today, while driving on the highway, some stop and go traffic for awhile in the heat, it started running really poorly. There was no power when I accelerated. It was 'clunky'. In neutral its smooth, but in gear, its jerky and when I hit the gas, I get very slow response. It takes a lot longer to get up to speed - no power.

I called the mechanic, and he says it sounds like its fuel starved. Well, the fuel pump was replaced last October, so I don't know how that could have gone bad already. I didn't drive it much over the winter, and have only been out on short trips since spring. He also suggested the catalytic converter, but I need to ask him why he didn't check that when he had it last. I think that could cause loss of power, but could that cause the stalling?

My dad suggested it might be the Air Mass Meter (or Air Flow Meter?)

I'm hoping for some advice from people with experience with this engine. Has anyone had a similar experience or have some insights about my problem?

Thanks,

Miranda Rose

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There are some many things to look at but my question would be has any one actually changed the fuel filter? If they said they did you might ask them where it is. It is about as hidden as fuel filters get and easily over looked. A fuel pressure test is a good place to start it is very important that it is correct. The MAF can be checked easily by some one that knows what they are doing it really is a simple device and pretty trouble free and generally not intermittent . If it just stops at speed there is a possibility of a ign. amp. (electronic device) the Toyota ones are again pretty tough but that is what they can do the only way to tell is jump out when it quits are see if there is a spark at the coil output they can be dead in the water and start after a few mins. A catalytic converter is either plugged or it's not no in between so if it runs fine some of the time it's not, a vacuum gauge will tell if there is a problem right away if it generally lacks "normal" power. I'll assume that there is no " check engine light" but it still might be a good ideal to try and extract a code any way. Good luck when you find it,it will be a ah ha moment.

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Did you check the exhaust for blockage? Your symptoms sound like a partial blockage in the exhaust. You only need 1 baffle in the cat or muffler to break free to cause these problems. My guess is the cat. Good luck. John and Maineah are the best trouble shooters I've seen. Let us know what the results are. fred

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Today I drove around the block to see if the symptoms persist on a cold engine, and its the same - no power. There's been no stalling though. Could the stalling be a separate issue?

I'm thinking that maybe the fuel filter was NOT changed recently, but probably was changed back in October when the fuel pump was replaced. Unfortunately I'm on the road and have my service records at home (note to self - keep service records in the vehicle!). I plan to call the mechanics Monday morning to find out. Is it possible a fuel filter would need to be changed again in less than a year?

The last mechanic, who did the tune-up, (but did not fix the problem), said he tested the fuel pressure and it was fine. The pump was replaced in early October. These symptoms feel different than when that went bad.

So, checking the air mass sensor (MAF) and the catalytic converter are top suggestions so far.

Two other sources suggested that a bad throttle position sensor could cause these symptoms. Any thoughts on that?

Thank you for all the advice!! I'm now looking for the right mechanic. I'm on the road in Long Island, NY, so if anyone is from around here and knows a good mechanic, let me know.

Thanks again,

Miranda

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The fuel filter is in a very bad location Pax side, up under the intake manifold. very hard to change. Pull the Pax tire and remove the plastic wheel well skirt. You may want to remove the starter, I replaced mine without removing it, but its tough.

Te verify if its a fuel problem, use a can of starter fluid. When it acts up and won't start, give it a squirt of fluid in none of the manifold vacuum lines and then see if it'll start, run for a sec, then quit

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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MUFFLERS WILL IN DEED FALL APART INSIDE MY 1988 toyota 4wd did that blocked of the outlet and caused a no power problem

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Update... The mechanic discovered that one of the fuel injectors is bad. That explains the loss of power. I don't think that explains the stalling. He says the AFM is fine. If it wasn't, the Check Engine light would be on.

I am considering buying refurbished fuel injectors to have him install. Any thoughts on refurbished vs new injectors.

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refurbished is fine

the best deal is to get a refurb kit on ebay for 20$ and replace all the parts yourself for all 4.

just need a little dental pick tool.

injecctors are getting cheap theyre 25 apeice on ebay as well. i guess if you just want one but one.

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Those injectors are very tough and very seldom go bad so if you have a bad one it probably would pay to replace them all because it was most likely contamination that killed it. After that is all said and done you'll need to do a vacuum check because a missfiring engine will plug a cat. I also would change the filter.

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I had a similar loss of power on my Toyota 4Runner.

Changed out the spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel filter, coils. The last thing to try was the fuel injectors.

Did a lot of research on www.yotatech.com.

Several guys bought Bostech brand refurbished injectors from Injector Warehouse and were satisfied:

http://www.injectorw...yota/mp4047.htm

$140 for a set of four. Bostech is the same brand sold at auto parts stores, where they sell for twice the mail order price.

An alternative is to send out injectors and have them refurbished - just takes time. One guy kept his old ones and had them refurbished just to have spares available.

Since new injectors sell for $150 a piece, I went with Bostech. The refurbished ones were the same brand (Nippondenso, I think) as the factory ones but looked like new.

If you want to do the job yourself, someone on yotatech probably has a good writeup with pictures on how to do it.

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It's an easy swap pull the top half of the intake and they are right there. I have seen a lot of injectors replaced because the ECU drivers were bad also 22RE's have a ballast resistor block for the injectors I'm hoping who ever condemned them has made an effort to find out why it is not working. If they buzz and don't inject they are most likely plugged up but if there is no pulse at the injector they will not inject either.

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