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Starting Issue


jayemright

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Hello,

We are the proud owners of a 1985 Sunrader with 54K on it. It is a great running vehicle with one exception. It will not start if it is not up to a full charge. If it has been sitting for a while and the battery only has 12.5 volts in it, then it just "clicks" when you turn the key. Sometimes if you hold the key in the start postion for 5 or 10 seconds, the starter will go, and turns over very quickly. Most vehicles, if the battery is down a bit, will crank slowly. This one just doesn't go. I have replaced the engine battery, and that seemed to help for a while, but it is back to its old tricks. Could it be something in the starter or ignition switch? Once started, the alternator show 14 volts, so I know it is charging OK, and once It has started for the day, it seems to be OK for the rest of the day. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Camping season is upon us!!!

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i'd do some serious cleaning of the grounds from the engine to battery to frame. might consider adding an additional strap for the best ground posible. also make sure there is no drain on the battery when everything turned off, test between positive wire and postive battery post. might be something shorting out if it's draining fairly quickly.

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There are two contacts inside of the starter solenoid when they go bad the starter will just click no matter how hot the battery is it is a simple fix but finding some one to do it is hard. The contacts are less then 10 bucks but unless you take it to some one that rebuilds starters they will want to sell you a rebuilt it's a very common Toyota starter issue.

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Also, 12.5 volts is a fully charged battery ^^ what he said, buy a starter swap and enjoy.

I have the same unit if its the 21 foot EFI. keep my name handy.

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We have a 92 Dolphin with a good battery. On our first trip I stopped on the 505 and didn't turn the headlights off. After a while when trying to start it just clicked, no starter. The clicking came from the right side of the passenger foot space. The digital meter said the battery still had plenty of power and did not go down much at all when the key was held on. I got it going again by using the battery powered starter/air compressor/lite unit that I always carry. It has never done that since. I assumed the starter relay was the fault, I've seen this before in other cars, and looked for it. No luck so far, the Toyota manual says it can be in either of 2 locations and it is not. The chilton manual says the same, no go. Is it possible the newer 6 cyc motors are using the black box as the relay?? that's the only component in that space. Anyway I did trace the wiring and installed a remote starting disable switch as a theft deterrent.

vanman

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I too had similar problem. The Shasta would not start some times just a click which i found came from box above passenger speaker. I thought it might be a relay but put a new Auto Zone starter anyway. Well same old click. Had my auto electrical guy look at it and it was a bad connection under the main fuse box in engine compartment. He bypassed fuse and told me to hurry and drive to his shop where he fixed problem and installed new +,- battery cables and terminals. Problem solved. Until last night after driving home after getting new tires. I parked in front of home and went to move it later and again clicking coming from above pass speaker but also slight hissing from starter. Tried 40 times and nothing but hiss and click. Waited a couple hours and it started up but after an unusual long turning over of starter. It usually starts really quickly. ????

Happy 4th of July

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LISTEN TO OUR FRIEND MAINEAH PROBLY THE MOST PROBLEM MATIC THING IS THOSE 7 DOLLOR selinod contact on both the FOUR AND SIX in the starter. over time they burn then the relay clicks and the starter clicks and clicks and maybe it starts finaly it wont start at all. not real hard to change. dont have to tear down whole starter. I HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE

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Thanks to everyone for their input. I ordered a starter from Amazon.com (Rare electrical) and will put it in this coming week when we return from a family vacation in Quebec. . I will keep you posted!! Thanks again for all of your advice.

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The saga continues..........

Took the camper to my mechanic who replaced the starter. No dice. Still the "click" he went and replaced cables etc. to improve ground and connections-worked several times. Stopped for lunch on the way home, went to re-start it-No dice. Got a boost, and away it goes! Battery is reading 12.5 volts, 450 CCA. As soon as you put cables on it, it goes like nobody's business. It used to only do this once in a while, but has gotten worse this year. Not much left in the starting circuit to replace. Taking it back early next week. I don't know-Could it be the ignition switch? It makes the starter click, but perhaps the contacts have become corroded over the 27 years that this vehicle has been around that not all the juice is making it through to the starter. Getting a bit frustrated with the whole thing, and not sure where to look next. I welcome your suggestions and thank you in advance.

James

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I seem to recall one other vector in a high heat non start... something about a transmission temp sensor that if too hot will not allow start? I too had the clicking on a 100 degree July day last summer after driving for 4 hours straight in temps that would make a blown glass artisan break a sweat. It would always happen during refuel. I would fuel then would go to start and would get the click in dash but would also get a red light in dash; forget which one. Every time it did that I would open the hood and let it air out (15 mins) and I was on my way. has'nt happened since but then again I haven't been driving in this heat this year.

if it does this cold I would have suspected starter or starting selinoid; but as you have replaced both of those I now would turn gaze to a volitimeter on the starter.

Won't start at 12.5 volt 450 CCA? whats the read to the starter when turning Key? next take a reading when you have the jumpers on... what is the difference between the two? if the battery reads 12.5 but only 11.4 are making it to the starter for example; you have a short somewhere. At that point check ALL wireing, grounds and don't forget the fusible links.

don't feel bad about replacing the starter either; just keep old as a spare. your 27 year old one was probably due anyway.

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There are two wires on the starter one big one and a little one. I believe only the manual trans had a starter relay and the automatic has a neutral/park safety switch connected to the trans. any way if you cross the small and the big wire with some thing at the starter that will eliminate all of the wiring from the key and neutral switch. If the battery cables have a replacement end remove the clamp and clean under it and the terminal it's self that is an often over looked spot for bad connections. Check your battery terminals with the volt meter while you attempt to start it (may require the help of a friend). A fully charged battery is 12.7 volts if the voltage falls on it's nose when you crank it the battery is toes up if it clicks and the voltage does not drop much it's either wiring connections or a bad starter.

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