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Ugh! Broken bolts!


lilviking

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Hey guys I'll try and get photos on here soon. Here's the deal I've been setting up to fix up my 1977 Toyota Royal holiday! Changing out the thermostat for good measure, first bolt a little sticky but out it come second same sticky and then my world "SNAPS"! So I regroup and well start to drill it out and get a bolt/screw remover. Hardened steal you know good stuff and here we go... "SNAP"! Now I have a broken bolt with a hardened steal tip in the center and as I'm um hm stubborn I'm going to attempt to hamer and ice pick it out?!? Any thoughts?!?

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lilviking

Hey guys I'll try and get photos on here soon. Here's the deal I've been setting up to fix up my 1977 Toyota Royal holiday! Changing out the thermostat for good measure, first bolt a little sticky but out it come second same sticky and then my world "SNAPS"! So I regroup and well start to drill it out and get a bolt/screw remover. Hardened steal you know good stuff and here we go... "SNAP"! Now I have a broken bolt with a hardened steal tip in the center and as I'm um hm stubborn I'm going to attempt to hamer and ice pick it out?!? Any thoughts?!?

If it's in there that hard can you move the thermostat just enough to drill new holes??? What is it mounted in, cannot be wood to be stuck like that.

vanman

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If you have access to a TIG or MIG welder you could "tack" a nut (slightly larger than the existing bolt diameter) to the bolt. then remove it with a socket and rachet.

You would tack to the inside of the nut (threaded area).

Be very careful as the cylinder head is aluminum. Many times the heat from the welder helps to loosen the bolt.

I've used this trick before with good results. Good Luck.

Alternative #2, if you don't have a welder or if the bolt is snapped off below the casting, you could use a rotary cut off tool or hacksaw, and saw through the thermostat cover as close as possible to the inside of the broken bolt(between the thermostat and the bolt). Be careful not to saw into the head. Remove the cover and the thermostat. Plug the hole with a rag. Using a small drift, center it on the casting next to the broken bolt. Tap lightly with a hammer. The remainder of the casting should break away and fall off. Hopefully now you will have enough of the stud showing to get in with a pair of vise grips and remove it.

For future reference, when trying to remove old or rusted bolts. Soak them well with something like WD40. As you go to remove them use a forward and back motion until your sure the bolt (or nut) can be easily removed. (Tighten/untighten...tighten/untighten etc.)

If all else fails, contact "Mainah". He will probably have another solution. fred

P.S. You should make sure you have a replacement cover as you old one will be junk.

Final thought. (running slow this morning) If you have one bolt out, before alternative #2, try putting a hammer handle or wooden closet pole section into the neck opening. Leaver it back and forth gently and you may get lucky and it will release and slide up and over the broken bolt. DO NOT try to pry it off by sliding something between the cover and the head. This could be very expensive. OK now it's coffee time.

Edited by fred heath
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Fred's trick will work getting the easy out out most likely won't happen they can not be drilled. What I have done is use a nut one size bigger and put it over the old bolt then weld it. If the outlet is still on the bolt the only thing you can do is cut it off it maybe the reason the bolt broke and not because it was stuck in the threads. A little dremel tool with a saw blade will cut aluminum just fine it's possible once the housing is off to remove the bolt with pliers I would give up on the housing and try to leave as much bolt as you can it could give you more then one shot at getting it out heat goes a long way aluminum heats quickly.

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Hey, I had that same bolt break on my '84 22R engine! Thermostat cover, the one closest to the valve cover...right?

I clamped onto it with a vice-grips, then soaked it good with PB Blaster, went away overnight, next morning soaked it some more...then started working it with the vice-grips. Put pressure first in the tightening direction, then pressure in the loosening direction...soak it some more...pressure CW, pressure CCW...repeat, repeat. Finally, I could see a slight movement on the pressure cycles and wasn't long after that the d**n thing gave up and screwed out.

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Wow thanks alot guys, I'm going to see if my buddy has a welder. It's just a tiny bit above the housing, the top of the thermostat cover came off easy as it wasn't threaded. I tried the PB and vise grips way, and then came the drilling and extractor. But I haven't lost hope yet, and hopefully I can get a welder soon. Also it is the bolt closest to the head!

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