Moses Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 I would like to know the pros and cons to having a RV made of fiberglass and why did Toyota only make the Sunrader body out of fiberglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moses Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 Also, did Toyota produce a Sunrader with 22RE engine and a 5-speed manual transmission? If so, what year model? I am seeking one of this caliber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86rader Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 You aren't alone, Moses. I would love to find that drive train combo. I have seen a few 22REs with the 4 speed, but they are rare. Most 22REs came with the auto. Many of the earlier carbureted 22Rs had 4 speed manuals. The later V-6s are almost exclusively auto. As for the fiberglass construction used in the sunrader, it's advantage is it is as close to leak proof as a toyhouse gets. Most other makes are fiberglass sided as well, but the fiberglass is just thin flat usually corrugated sheets. This style construction has many seams that like to leak. If you really are set on a 5 speed 22re, your best bet may be to find a 22RE auto and a wrecked 5 speed pickup which can be used to donate all the parts necessary for a transplant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moses Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 Thanks 86rader! I thought the fiberglass body, other than being leak proof, held the temperature within better than the others. Sometimes, I feel like going to the salvage yard and building the vehicle of my dreams. Only because the salvage yard would be less expensive than the manufactory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Here is some Sunrader 101. First Toyota did not make the Sunrader. Sunrader is a separate company that manufactured the coach and installed in on the Toyota Chassis. They are all that way, Winnebago, Dolphin etc. I will throw out my pro's and cons and I am sure others will also. The advantage of an all fiberglass body is that it is a better water tight construction. Not completely though. It is true that there are no roof seams to leak as with other coaches but there are still roof vents, racks, air conditioners etc that can leak. The side and front windows can also leak just as with other coaches. Being fiberglass the construction is less prone to water damage. We owned an 18 foot Sunrader for awhile. Our present coach is a Gulfstream Conquest. Sunraders tend to be a bit narrower and the ceiling height lower than (if your 6ft plus you will be crouching) other coaches. Width in all sunraders are the same, just the length and floor plans vary. The newer ones have different cabinets and interior amenities etc. I believe the Sunrader fiberglass construction might weigh more than say a winnebago of the same length. As far as engines you really have 3 choices (same for all manufactures) the 22r carbureted, 22r fuel injected and the V6. Everyone is going to throw in their dollars worth of advice. You really need to drive one of each if possible to feel the difference. The V6 is my engine of choice. Those extra 2 cylinders make a big difference pulling those big hills. Bottom line is its really all about the floor-plan and engine. You can make and keep any coach water tight just don't buy one with previous water damage. Try to see as many different coaches as you can before you decide what you really want. We just had to have a 18 foot 4x4 sunrader at first. Now we are far happier and comfortable with our V6 Conquest. I honestly would not trade it for a Sunrader. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Toyota didn't build motorhomes. They only built the cab and chassis that was purchased by motorhome manufacturers. The owner of Gardner Pacific who made the Sunrader was known for his innovative designs long before the Sunrader. He designed the Amerigo campers and trailers and many others. I'm pretty sure he designed the first 2 story mobile home too. Sunrader is not the only all fiberglass motorhome though from that era. There is the Mirage, the Chinook Omega, and other ones I have seen are the Viva and Funcraft. Checked on the 5 speed and yes the 22re was available with a 5 speed but some years it was only available on the Turbo. To my knowledge they didn't put them on the cab and chassis's used for the motorhomes but there is probably no reason you couldn't switch them out. 5 speeds were available on some of the v6 motorhomes but not many LS I would like to know the pros and cons to having a RV made of fiberglass and why did Toyota only make the Sunrader body out of fiberglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moses Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 Thank you so much Gulfstream Greg for your response, because I had considered the Sunland as well. It's just me riding solo, so I considered just to go with the Sunrader 18', but I want to live on the road for a couple of years and may carry my two 6' sons at some point. "I can hear them complaining now." This is why I join Toyota Motohome Forum before I purchase one, so that others experience can help me not make the same mistakes, but choose wisely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moses Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 Can someone tell me, does it matter where the bathroom sit in our Toy RV? Is it better up front or in the back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 I think it really is a floorplan preference for each individual. My pref is the bath in the rear. Seems to be more spacious that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moses Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 Thanks for your response, I totally agree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 Can someone tell me, does it matter where the bathroom sit in our Toy RV? Is it better up front or in the back? Depends how bad you gotta go. Look around,I like the layout of mine (Dolphin 900) with the bath in the back, However, I've talked to other Dolphine owners who like the bedroom in the back. Personally, look around and find the one thats in the best condition for your money, and learn to like it. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90toydolphin Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 we picked our because of the couch that makes into a bed, easier than climbing up ). don't know but imagine if bath is in the front so are the tanks, maybe better weight distribution? we all have different needs that's why each company did their own thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mulwyk Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 I'm restoring a '84 Sunrader. A few years ago I restored an Odyssey. The fiberglass Sunrader had leaks around the roof vents, the plumbing vents, the windows, and the "luggage rack" mounts. The conventional framed, square sided Odyssey had leaks in all those same places...plus it was leaking around those nearly-impossible-to-repair roof seams. And, even worse, the Odyssey had wood framing under the siding. (Leaks in the cornors + wood framing = major rot problems). The Sunrader, on the other hand, has fewer places to leak and, as a bonus, the fiberglass shell is structural...you can completely remove the interior and still have the shell standing there. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Don't forget that the lower ride height of the sunrader results in less wind drag. Wind Drag on these things is huge; the dolphins and Winnebagos etc get worse MPG because of this. Also would recommend not having roof mounted AC if it can be thought through. I added one to my sunrader and immediately noticed more sway in high winds and i bet 1 MPG less. Now I need to find a sway bar kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 A Sunrader holds up better, but a bad Sunrader is a total. The construction is a fiberglass shell, a cardboard honeycomb, and then another fiberglass shell. If the honeycomb gets wet its toast. A stick built that has rot can be repaired, BUT its not a good idea to rebuild a wreck. Look and get one that is you and in good shape to start with. Its way cheaper that way. Toyota searchers say "Be prepared to kiss a lot of toads before you find your prince/princess" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Hi Totem, See the following link (http://toyotamotorho...h=1) for more information on installing a later model rear swaybar on your Sunrader. Click on the illustration I posted, it has the Toyota part numbers in it, or use the VIN that Kirby listed. With luck there will still be a new rear swaybar available for you. When I installed an AC unit on my 1985 Sunradar, what a difference in handling, in a bad way. There is nothing worst for handling than putting 100lbs up 9' in the air! Our Sunrader handled fine without a rear swaybar and no AC, and now even with the later factory rear swaybar and the AC unit, it still does not handle as well as it did before. Note: I did not notice any mileage difference when I installed the AC unit. Regards, Allen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Allen, I'm like you, guessing its the weight of the unit that far above the Center of Gravity. Hows the shocks? John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Hi Totem, See the following link (http://toyotamotorho...h=1) for more information on installing a later model rear swaybar on your Sunrader. Click on the illustration I posted, it has the Toyota part numbers in it, or use the VIN that Kirby listed. With luck there will still be a new rear swaybar available for you. When I installed an AC unit on my 1985 Sunradar, what a difference in handling, in a bad way. There is nothing worst for handling than putting 100lbs up 9' in the air! Our Sunrader handled fine without a rear swaybar and no AC, and now even with the later factory rear swaybar and the AC unit, it still does not handle as well as it did before. Note: I did not notice any mileage difference when I installed the AC unit. Regards, Allen awesome! will call them first thing Monday. Its bolt on right? no welding a bracket? As for kissing toads, I looked at several Toy Homes that were the corrugated seemed shell type like the Dolphin. ALL had water damage from seam leaking. then I came across my sunrader... was literally Farm fresh; had been in a Barn since 2000 and only had few miles on it. The former owner had meticulously removed the ladder, roof rack/antennae sewer vents and seals around the vents and butyl taped(plumbers puttied) them. I installed the AC unit myself and had a first had view of pristine honeycomb. No trace of moisture ever. I get lots of " wow that's one of the best looking sunraders ive ever seen" or "Really? that's a 1986????" At that point it makes me feel better about paying $7200 for a unit that bluebooks for $1200. Of course I have yet to ever see anyone sell one for $1200.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mulwyk Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 $7200 is a bargain. I can't understand a $1200 book value. Toyota motorhome prices are definitely trending upward, even in this recession. And Sunraders hold their value better than most. Even a unit with major problems will sell for $3000 or more. As to fiberglass vs. wood frame: I've rebuilt both types and I greatly prefer the fiberglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Hi John, Yes, the high weight. I replaced the shocks with new KYB GasAdjust Shocks after the pictures were taken. The shocks improved the comfort of the ride greatly, I do not remember how it affected the handling. The previous shocks, Monroe Gas-Magnums, rode hard (probably worn), and one really felt the road when traveling off a paved road and could not travel as fast (without shaking itself apart). Hi Totem, Regarding that it is a bolt on, it will bolt to the upgraded 6 lug rear axle, assuming that you do not have air bags in the way (like mine does). You need to read the link, and crawl under your MH to see what needs to be done (look at our installation pictures). Kirby has an 84 (not sure if his truck is an 83 or 84), but he had to weld on brackets. I have an 85 model (including the truck), I had to simply drill a couple of holes and make a couple of spacers (to clear the air bags). If you do go the latter model factory swaybar, I hope you can still buy one. After I brought mine, there were only 2 left in the US. Good Luck! Regards, Allen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Hi John, Yes, the high weight. I replaced the shocks with new KYB GasAdjust Shocks after the pictures were taken. The shocks improved the comfort of the ride greatly, I do not remember how it affected the handling. The previous shocks, Monroe Gas-Magnums, rode hard (probably worn), and one really felt the road when traveling off a paved road and could not travel as fast (without shaking itself apart). Hi Totem, Regarding that it is a bolt on, it will bolt to the upgraded 6 lug rear axle, assuming that you do not have air bags in the way (like mine does). You need to read the link, and crawl under your MH to see what needs to be done (look at our installation pictures). Kirby has an 84 (not sure if his truck is an 83 or 84), but he had to weld on brackets. I have an 85 model (including the truck), I had to simply drill a couple of holes and make a couple of spacers (to clear the air bags). If you do go the latter model factory swaybar, I hope you can still buy one. After I brought mine, there were only 2 left in the US. Good Luck! Regards, Allen sweet info... now a dumb question... is it worth it? I have the exact same year you do same everything looking under yours in your pictures looks like mine, i even have same airbags... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Hi Totem, I think it is worth it; however, whether it is worth it to you is another matter. I do not like driving vehicles that sway a lot. For reference, the factory parts will cost you about $300. Regards, Allen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Hi Totem, I think it is worth it; however, whether it is worth it to you is another matter. I do not like driving vehicles that sway a lot. For reference, the factory parts will cost you about $300. Regards, Allen DOAH... sold out across America. Funny... that VIN comes in as a Forerunner, not Box truck... Question for yall.. I have found Aftermarket vendors that make a swaybar kit for a 1993 1 Ton rear axle from a T100... is this close enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 It could be close enough. But might take some fabrication skills and equipment to complete the installation. I'd try and get hold of a drawing from the vendors. Or at least order from someone with a generous 'Returns Policy'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 It could be close enough. But might take some fabrication skills and equipment to complete the installation. I'd try and get hold of a drawing from the vendors. Or at least order from someone with a generous 'Returns Policy'! Agreed, or get a used swaybar assembly off a wrecker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobBeery Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Regarding Totem's post above (#23), When I changed insurance companies last fall my 87 Dolphin VIN also came back as a Forerunner. I challenged my agent on this. We took the VIN directly from the actual Michigan title and the insurance company's site still said Forerunner. ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twoblocked Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 The VIN properly describes the Toyota Cab & Chassis, not the particular motorhome manufacturer. (i.e. Winnebago, Gardner Pacific et all) . When you go to buy parts from a Toyota Dealer (online or locally) the VIN will describe the C&C. You will get the correct parts. It doesn't matter if it's shown as a 4Runner. You will have to deal with your insurance company about what is loaded onto the C&C, motorhome, U-Haul Box, dump bed, etc. As far as Arizona is concerned, the VIN is what is used to determine how the vehicle is licensed. Regarding Totem's post above (#23), When I changed insurance companies last fall my 87 Dolphin VIN also came back as a Forerunner. I challenged my agent on this. We took the VIN directly from the actual Michigan title and the insurance company's site still said Forerunner. ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I would make all attempts to use POLYURATHNE BUSHINGS .they work better last far better and are totaly better than comon rubber parts last almost forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I was considering this Hellwig 7539 rear swaybar prior to finding out that the factory rear swaybar was still available new. What is nice about this bar is that it supposely fits all 79-94 pickups! And speaking about great prices, return policies, free shipping, and no sales tax, you cannot do better than Amazon (http://www.amazon.co...28589141&sr=8-1)! See picture below for some instructions I previously found on the Internet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 My Hellwig 7539 showed up today. have appointment for install next week... running out of time to find a pair of 6 lug 1 ton front wheel hubs (which I'd also like my mech to install)... any idears fellas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Tried www.car-part.com ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 yep scored my rear axle off of that site; got a set lined up yesterday for $60 + shipping. maybe i'll get lucky and will have good hardware! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 rear Hellwig and front Bilsteins going in front this week; hoping I can negotiate the rare steel adapters i seem to have come across. after this weeks work the rigs suspension will be where I've wanted it. and only carrying one spare instead of just a tire. Carrying just a tire was my failover plan; I figured I would call a cab to a tire shop with it and whichever wheel had failed (5 or 6 lug). This seemed like a cheaper alternative than almost $300 for one aluminum adapter to keep in a drawer. Can't wait for these upgrades... helloooooo stainless simulators when this gets done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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