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It seems I have been finding posts about the 3.0 being swapped out. I am new to this so I am wondering if this is because the motor wasn't popular or was prone to mechanical failure? Appreciate any replies!

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Apparently the 3.0 engine had head gasket problems. Perhaps someone could chime in to let us know if there is an aftermarket fix that alleviates the factory head gasket problem?

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Apparently the 3.0 engine had head gasket problems. Perhaps someone could chime in to let us know if there is an aftermarket fix that alleviates the factory head gasket problem?

Supposedly the issue was fixed by Toyota with upgraded head-gaskets.

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Probably a aluminum block then? I'd rather have the 4.3 GM 6cyl with an automatic. They use it some of their RV's with the Astro body.

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Derek, Any idea what years Toyota offered the factory fix? I'm not surprised, in my opinion Toyota always offered a good product. This was the first time I read different posts about upgrading the 3.0. Have to admit though I like the later 4.3's from GM. They used them in full size vans etc. and had plenty of power. I currently have an earlier one with TBI in my G20 that doesn't lack any power. I'm thinking ahead for towing purposes.

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I have a Tiger Provan with the 4.3. Very nice little rigs except for mine. It's a mess. I was going to restore it but life got in the way. It's one of those I'll get to it someday things. Looks like this except for the nice part and the AWD

http://images.traderonline.com/img/3/dealer/7584430/110279665_1thumb_770x574.jpg

Linda S

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I like the later 4.3's from GM. They used them in full size vans etc. and had plenty of power. I currently have an earlier one with TBI in my G20 that doesn't lack any power. I'm thinking ahead for towing purposes.

I've never been impressed with the GM 4.3. Good rugged engine yes, Gas hog - also yes. Just like most small-block Chevy V8s which it's based on. I had two Astrovans with 4.3s. One 2WD with TBI and the other with AWD and CPI. Neither could ever get 20 MPG. I think 19 MPG was the best ever with the 2WD and 18 MPG with the AWD. I finally swtiched to a Dodge Grand Caravan AWD with a 3.8 V6. Gets a consistent 21-22 MPG on the highway, carries more cargo, and has more power then any of my Astros ever did. I've seen a few motorhomes that got the Chrysler 3.8s swapped into them with what seem to be good results if I can believe the fuel mileage claims.

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Just google 3.0 and head gasket problems. It's been explained completely to death. All Toyotas that I know of (which is all the R series, and the first couple V6 models at least) have iron blocks, aluminum heads. Which is pretty much standard to Japanese vehicles so far as I can tell.

There are pros and cons to owning the 3.0. Well maintained and with the factory head gasket fix, they can be good engines. It's just that for not all that much more power, you get worse gas mileage and much higher repair fees. Things like a valve adjustment would cost $100 for an R series motor. It easily gets over $400 for the 3.0. There has also been a ton of discussion on this site about the pros and cons of the 3.0, and the "recall".

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I was pulling 21 MPG highway with ASTRO TBI on my NY To FL trips. Auto with OD. I believe the Dodge 3.8' S were good motors but mid 90's auto tranny's were noted for problems. I was trying to find a Dakota Extended Cab with a manual but never did. Good point with the mileage with the 4.3's. We raised our kids in ASTRO Vans. Needed the room and liked to travel. SO, what is the best swap with some power to tow that gets decent mileage?

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Ok hello fellow Toyota motorhome enthusiast. I'm a newbie to this posting stuff so thanks in advance. I have read EXTENSIVELY for months in different forums and I don't find the specific answers, so here I go. I have a 1986 rwd 22re automatic true 6 bolt one ton full floating rear axle pickup motorhome, weighs about 5000lbs. The front axle is actually the original old 5 bolt pattern and I'm not sure if that front axle is different from the 6 bolt one and if it even matters or makes a difference for it being a motorhome and a diesel engine swap maybe going to make it to heavy for it?? that's another question I have. But it does have the good rear axle that got upgraded just that year and up for these motorhomes. Anyways I want to swap to the 2lt and maybe even the 2lte. The most common option I see and like is buying a 1984-1986 pickup 4x4 5 speed manual sometimes 2lt or just the 2l here in united states in bad to ehh condition. I like this option because I want everything to look like original stock upgraded 1986 Toyota diesel. If i get the 2l I'm thinking of buying the turbo kit on ebay maybe with an intercooler upgrading to the 3l head due to the over heating issued cracking 2lt heads and raising turbo to 12psi. I'm thinking to maybe put the other truck back together also to re-sell as a gas truck. But anyways so to begin I'm kind of lost in a few areas here, will the 4x4 diesel bell housing bolt on the auto transmission that i have now then I just need the 2wd auto 2lt computer or what?? Can i remove the 4x4 option from the tranny if i decide to swap the 2l engine with the manual tranny that it comes with if so how?? Will I need to get a different computer one originally for the 2wd auto diesel?? For the motorhome i definitely want to keep it rwd that's not an option to change, less overall weight better economy for me. I can deal with the 5 speed manual, i kind of like the idea of it, but I'm also very happy with auto trans so which ever scenario is cheaper, works better or both. I've seen the kits to rebuild these engines and trannys on eBay for decent prices. I have a family owned auto sale business equipped with a nice strong at least 20ft hydraulic lift. plus engine lifts compressors and plenty of tools. and my step father is a decent diagnostic pull out put in mechanic but never worked on diesel engines before. What do you guys recommend? Any input would be GREATLY appreciated I've been planning this for over 2 years now saving a decent amount of money and spending a lot doing a restoration to my rv that I bought for 1,200$ I want it to be an icon for economical innovative off the grid living design utilizing solar panels to power home electrical living and the option of using bio-diesel. I personally deal with web management and I'm a project consultant at a Miami online based product development firm. This Toyota motorhome truck is my dream project. Thanks again

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Want a 5 speed for 22RE ?? Only drawback, it's PLASTIC.

http://3dprint.com/50265/3d-printed-toyota-transmission/, when they can print case hardened, sign me up :)

Looks like they are getting close though. I'd get on the list early :greedy:

GE 3D Printing

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A . I have a 1986 rwd 22re automatic true 6 bolt one ton full floating rear axle pickup motorhome, weighs about 5000lbs. The front axle is actually the original old 5 bolt pattern and I'm not sure if that front axle is different from the 6 bolt one

B The most common option I see and like is buying a 1984-1986 pickup 4x4 5 speed manual sometimes 2lt or just the 2l here in united states in bad to ehh condition. I like this option because I want everything to look like original stock upgraded 1986 Toyota diesel. If i get the 2l I'm thinking of buying the turbo kit on ebay maybe with an intercooler upgrading to the 3l head due to the over heating issued cracking 2lt heads and raising turbo to 12psi.

C Will I need to get a different computer one originally for the 2wd auto diesel?? For the motorhome i definitely want to keep it rwd that's not an option to change, less overall weight better economy for me. I can deal with the 5 speed manual, i kind of like the idea of it, but I'm also very happy with auto trans so which ever scenario is cheaper, works better or both.

D I want it to be an icon for economical innovative off the grid living design utilizing solar panels to power home electrical living and the option of using bio-diesel. I personally deal with web management and I'm a project consultant at a Miami online based product development firm. This Toyota motorhome truck is my dream project. Thanks again

Seems you "double posted." So - I'll "double answer.

My opinion on a few of your questions:

A: The trucks with the 6 lug front hubs (to match the FF rear) use the same wheel bearings as the 5 lug hubs. NO difference in weight-carrying capacity. What often IS different is the brake package. Front disk brakes with the six-lug hubs use a larger effective-diamter rotor.

B: The 2L and 2LT use same type transmissions as the 20R and 22R/RE gas engines. Diesels use their own bell-housings though and the starter motors are on the opposite side. The automatic transmission for the diesel though might have a torque-conveter with a different stall-speed. You'd have to double-check that.

Regardless of which diesel you use - I think you are asking for problems - especially if you want to run 12 PSI boost along with an intercooler. Too little of an engine and too much load. A 2LT barely makes the power of a 20R gas engine and makes a lot less then a 22RE gas engine. 20-21 foot high-roof Toyota RVs are already underpowered with the 22REs and it just gets worse with a diesel. Also the diesel is MUCH more prone to crack heads once you turn the fuel delivery up and increase boost - or sneak more air in by cooling and condensing it. If you had a way to install a 4.88 to 1 rear axle ratio and a 6 speed tranmssion - a diesel might be bearable.

C: NO computer needed if you use a 2L or 2LT. Electrical hookups are very simple. One switch hot wire for the injection-pump shut-off solenoid, and a glow-plug circuit that can be as simple as a push-button and a relay with no controller if wanted.

D: I'm not sure what you mean by "bio-diesel." Alternative fuels used in any diesel with a mechanical rotary/distributor injection pump can be a disaster. Some forms of factory made "bio-diesel" made with high-lube sources like "Canada OIl" - "AKS "Canola OIl" have high lube and are OK. Other types are not. Using "deep dryer" oil can ruin a rotary pump pretty fast. For this reason - unless you are sticking to one type of "bio-fuel" known to have good lube - and you REALLY want a diesel - you'd better find one with a mechanical "in-line" pump, or a new non-mechanical electronic type. All the Toyota 2L and 2LT diesels I've seen have rotary/distributor mechanical pumps and cannot tolerate low-lube or "questionable" lube fuels.

I'm not trying to discourage you. Just explaining a few facts as I know them. I've worked in several diesel injection shops and seen a lot of trashed pumps - usually from people trying to run alternative fuels. Diesel engines always ;put out less power and torque then gas engines with equal bore & stroke and aspiration. So - generally speaking - if you want a diesel to have the same "get up and go" as a 22RE gas engine - you need something with 2.8 to 3 liters.

If you already have a chosen fuel source that is known to be high lube - and some how is regarded as "green" - go for it. None of it really is - but that's not the point here, I guess. It takes a lot of good-old petro-oil to make so-called "bio-fuel." So far, it's been a huge waste of time and money.

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I was pulling 21 MPG highway with ASTRO TBI on my NY To FL trips. Auto with OD. I believe the Dodge 3.8' S were good motors but mid 90's auto tranny's were noted for problems. I was trying to find a Dakota Extended Cab with a manual but never did. Good point with the mileage with the 4.3's. We raised our kids in ASTRO Vans. Needed the room and liked to travel. SO, what is the best swap with some power to tow that gets decent mileage?

Here's a road-test done by Trailer LIfe Magazine with the Astrovan. 1991 so I assume the TBI setup. I don't think that God-awful CPI system came out until 1995. 17 MPG empty and 13 something MPG pulling a trailer.

I've got a road-test for a later Astro Tiger RV also with the 4.3. Got to dig it up.

post-6578-0-22526100-1431871790_thumb.jp

post-6578-0-55674400-1431871794_thumb.jp

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Back East Don
Looks like they are getting close though. I'd get on the list early :greedy:
GE 3D Printing

Many years ago, before smog controls, one of the majors built and tested plastic motors. Was on the cover of one of the magazines I subscribed to, was supposed to be the next big thing. :)

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Many years ago, before smog controls, one of the majors built and tested plastic motors. Was on the cover of one of the magazines I subscribed to, was supposed to be the next big thing. :)

And now there are plastic intake and exhaust manifolds and even plastic radiators.

I had seen the article I linked some time back. This thread got a new post and saw yours which reminded me. I worked in powder metallurgy research some years back with a focus on developing materials for metal injection molding and materials for electronics like film capacitors and copper powders for inks used in silk screening PC boards. Worked on Neo magnet materials before anyone knew what it was. Now all these things are common place. It is hard to predict the future. Hey, I was promised flying cars. Still amazes me every day what research develops.

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I saw I think, on slashdot, a link to 3-D printing of stainless steel and titanium. If the cost of that rig ever gets down to an affordable level I will sure like to get me one. Course that would probably entail a 3-D scanner and CAD software as well.

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Here is a place that does the swap start to finish. If closer to me I think I would do it. This is their email reply if they knew of a place closer to Durango that did the swap.

RE: 3.0L to 3.4L swap
 
C
cliff@toyonlyswaps.com
 
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Reply|
Mon 1/30, 11:24 AM
 
  No sir I do not, however we have customers from all over the country as far away as South Carolina, you may consider transport a option, it could save you money in the long run, and could save some heart ache knowing your Toyota is in good hands. We can drop you off or pick you up at the Eugene Airport if needed, Thanks, Below is our quote sheet take a look and let me know what you think . 
3.4 swap 88-95 3.0 V6 manual trans. 
    Complete 3.4 swap/conversion,  parts and labor including engine $4500 Base price If you are automatic add $500 in most cases. This is a start to finish 100% completed conversion ready for pickup,  We have customers from all over the world, we can accept transport of your vehicle or arrange to drop you off/pick you up at the Airport/Train/bus station business hours. 
    Engines are all fully tested and inspected to ensure they have been taken care of, come with a 90 day warranty,  average mileage in the 120-150k range. Lower mileage engines can be found prices vary. We will select your engine and let you know exactly what year and mileage is available before we purchase your engine. We need 3 weeks or less to complete your conversion from the time you drop off your vehicle.  A deposit of half down is due before we purchase your conversion, and hold your shop time. Ask about our lead times, we can have swaps booked out for 2 months at times.
 
 
Factory systems 
Not all our customers have these options, and they require additional parts and labor to keep functioning. If you currently have these options and would like to keep them functional
 
Auto locking hubs $100 "4x4s only"
Cruise control $150
Air conditioning $150 "if your system is currently functioning and charged."
 
Options, All parts are Factory Toyota, or Aisin OEM replacment. 
Often times the engines we source will have timing belt stickers or show signs of a recent timing belt and water pump. Front main, rear main, and cam seals are inspected and rarely show any signs of leaking. Below are commonly requested maintenance  by our customers, if you have any other requests let us know.
 
New Aisin water pump and Toyota timing belt $250 installed
New Aisin belt tensioner and bearings add $150 installed 
New factory Toyota thermostat $25
New Bando Alternator, ac, Power steering belt $60
New factory Toyota spark plug wires and spark plugs $85
Rear main seal replacement with Factory Toyota Seal $100 installed 
Factory Toyota Front main seal replacement $50 Installed "if done at time of waterpump/TB"
Factory Toyota Cam seals $60 "if done at time of water pump/timing belt/valve covers"
New factory Toyota valve cover gaskets add $125
New OEM Toyota engine mounts $100
New Denso Front and rear 02 sensors $175 "highly recommended" 
 
Clutch 
We reuse your original 3.0 Clutch/flywheel standard, they hold up fine to the 3.4, but the 3.4 clutch is larger/stronger if you want to upgrade now is the time. 
3.4 swap Toyota/Aisin OEM clutch kit $385 with new flywheel
 
Cooling
We reuse your original 3.0 Radiator as long as its in good shape, if not plan on a going new. 
New plastic aluminum radiator $150 "plastic tanks"
New All aluminum HD Radiator $275 "best cooling one we have seen and proven reliable"
New HD all copper radiator $275 "factory replacement"
New Rad Shroud $75 "often customers have broken or missing fan shrouds"
New late model fan blade $75 "we use late model 3.0 fan blades without the ring"
 
Hood Clearance 
The 3.4 makes contact with the hood and clearance is needed. 88 trucks and 88-89 4unners will need a scoop or body lift. 89-95 trucks and 90-95 4runners will need a body lift or hood scoop 90% of the time, 10% of the time we can just cut the center supports out from the underside of the hood. If you already have a body lift than your good to go. 
1 inch body lift installed $250 for trucks and $300 for 4runners. 
Hood scoop $150
 
 
Security 
Protect your investment from thieves by having a hidden kill switch added. This small toggle switch in a hidden location can be flipped to disable your vehicle insuring no one can start it without knowing its location. Cost $100
 
*Additional prices may apply if your vehicle has excessive aftermarket wiring, stereos, winch, lights, alarms ect...
*88 3.0 Trucks and 88-89 3.0 4runners add $75 for engine mounts
 
Let me know if you have any other questions, thanks.
Cliff Vann cliff@toyonlyswaps.com 541-895-2020

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Guest Snailmailtrucker

Here's an Idea !

I live within Walking distance to this "ToyonlySwaps" Conversion Shop. For any members of Toyotamotorhome.org I will work out a deal where you can drive your Toyota Motorhome here to have the Conversion done...I will provide my 87 Toyota New Horizon or my small Shop residence for you to stay in for the 3 weeks that you are here... you can take a daily walk to see the Progress on your Rig without all of the Stress and expense of staying in our local Motels for $112.00 per night.
https://www.choicehotels.com/oregon/creswell/comfort-inn-hotels/or203

Just a thought...if you are interested just let me know.... and we will work out the details !

Snailmailtrucker

Edited by Snailmailtrucker

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Yikes. 3 weeks by pros in a well equipped shop. Kind of shoots holes in the stories by those who claim that it's an easy 'bolt-in' swap! :)

Of course I've always had my doubts, given the number of lengthy 'build treads' on the 3.4 swap on the more techie Toyota sites.

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