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great information. That's a really informative link!

I'm sure the YotaTech site is well known by most of the members here, but here's the link just in case:

Specifically, there is a section at yotatech devoted to 3.4 swaps for the infamous 3.0.

3.4 swaps

And here's a forum dedicated to KZT and 2LT swaps! These are really sexy! If/when my 3.0 dies on me.

Toyota Diesel swaps

The diesel swap appears to be easy to get past the California DMV according to ppl in CA that have done it. more here:

You fill out a DMV REG 256 form (Statement of Facts), and on the back, there's a section for "Change of Motive Power." They sent a DMV employee outside to "verify" that the engine was actually now a diesel. But I think most of them couldn't tell a diesel if Rudolph himself were driving it! So she pretty much took my word for it, signed off on the form, and sent me back inside. They issued me a new registration card on the spot, and a new title showed up in the mail a week later. California doesn't require any inspection or emissions testing for diesel cars and light trucks, so that's that.

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On not swapping, and instead, HOT RODDING an engine, I have not seen much for the V6 engine us V6 owners have other than exhaust headers etc. But I am sure that there is some stuff out there to beef up our engines such as cams, ignition mods etc. A bored out V6 with the right cam, ignition and fuel setup could provide a substantial horse power boost. I have seen a boost in just adding a better exhaust and a K&N filter. A good portion of the hills near sea level I can pull at 60 to 65 mph no problem. But at higher elevations the same grades can cause me to slow where second gear is needed to keep above 45 plus mph. I am considering a rear gear change to a lower ratio where the engine power curve will be better and allow me to use overdrive.

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I wonder how much Mileage per gallon you can squeeze out with a diesel swap. I've seen them done on Landcruisers that get 10mpg and they get 20mpg in the end. Thats what I'd be in for with a swap. One of the next two Motorhomes I buy will be swapped with mileage and possible more towing capacity in mind.

On not swapping, and instead, HOT RODDING an engine, I have not seen much for the V6 engine us V6 owners have other than exhaust headers etc. But I am sure that there is some stuff out there to beef up our engines such as cams, ignition mods etc. A bored out V6 with the right cam, ignition and fuel setup could provide a substantial horse power boost. I have seen a boost in just adding a better exhaust and a K&N filter. A good portion of the hills near sea level I can pull at 60 to 65 mph no problem. But at higher elevations the same grades can cause me to slow where second gear is needed to keep above 45 plus mph. I am considering a rear gear change to a lower ratio where the engine power curve will be better and allow me to use overdrive.

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that 3.4 swap sounds pretty nice, but coming across a donor for cheap might be tough.

the other ones that interest me are the GM 4.3 V-6 and ford 302. but, i've read mixed results about the 4.3. Some love it, some say it's junk. I would really like to do a 302 swap but wonder how much tougher a FI 302 would be over a carbed one. And is the FI worth the extra trouble? Would a carbed 302 toyhouse be a gas pig? Can the A340 tranny be made to bolt up to the 302? If so, is it stout enough?

got at least a few months to think about it anyway. i'll probably just run that 3.slow until it blows up....if it does. it actually runs reasonably well, but, the compression numbers have me concerned. what are the odds a valve adjustment will help them?

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there's a 97 tundra 3.4 auto 4x4 on CL in mass.

hmmmmmmmm.

tempting.

can anyone tell me how much of a PITA it is to drop the 3.4 into a 3.0 hole? Both autos, although the tundra is a 4x4. from doing a bit of research it looks as if it will bolt right up as they both use the A340 tranny. The only thing that scares me a bit is wiring, but, there appears to be quite a bit of info out there posted by those that have already done it.

a 3.4 powered odyssey should be pretty sweet. and i'd be the only guy on the block with one.

what i would really like is that engine in an 18 ft sunrader. it would be quite the rocket ship.

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Personally I think it would awesome to Drop a VW ALH 1.9 TDI into one. The ALH series (2000-2003) have been put into westfalia's before so putting one in a Sunrader could be done. I have one in a new beetle and it gets 47-48 MPG normal driving as a car... The turbo kicks in when needed for extra pep. I cant help but think it would do well in a toy but would be a fabrication nightmare prolly.

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can anyone tell me how much of a PITA it is to drop the 3.4 into a 3.0 hole?

This is an easy swap, one that is done all the time in the 4X4 world.

The 3.0L and the 3.4L are almost identical. The intake is slightly taller.

As far as bolt up is consider, yes. You need to use your 3.0 oil pan and related equipment. (It swaps right over) Next you need to use your 3.0 engine mounts. Again, direct swap with the exception of one edge that “may” need to be filed a bit for the block coolant drain. Use your 3.0 AC bracket, Compressor but switch the pulley to the 3.4 one or you can use the stock 3.4 set-up and just swap over the top of the compressor to the 3.0.

On 4x4 trucks with a 5-speed, you need to swap the exhaust to a drivers side drop, but I don’t think our RV’s will matter if it come down the passenger side because we don’t have the transfer case or the clutch slave cylinder in the way. (I will know for sure after I do this swap…)

The 3.4 will bolt up to our 340H auto trans just like the 3.0. BUT the problem comes when you try and control it. The tranny speed sensor in the A340h differs from the A340f. The a340h uses a on-off siginal. It is a "switch" that is pulled by a magnet on the output shaft of the transmission to create a open-closed circut. One pulse per revolution. I Don't know what the tundra uses.

The a340f speed sensor is a voltage generating circut (AC siginal). The 5vz computer doesn't know what to do with it. 4 pulses per revoultion. It will still run and drive it, but you will be limp mode, not recommended for the 6000Lbs RV.

However, Toyota did use a compatible ECU for the T100 !!! So get one of those if you can or you can always use the newer trans too.

How good are you with the wiring? It’s fairly simple, just compare the factory diagram form your 3.0 with whatever year/model donor engine, cut and splice accordingly…

Tons and tons of info on the yotatech site: http://www.yotatech.com/f160/

I have the engine in my garage now, My plan is to install it 2012 !! I will post up as I go. I’m just making sure I have EVERYTHING covered so I don’t have to delay too long.

Andrew.

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Personally I think it would awesome to Drop a VW ALH 1.9 TDI into one. The ALH series (2000-2003) have been put into westfalia's before so putting one in a Sunrader could be done. I have one in a new beetle and it gets 47-48 MPG normal driving as a car... The turbo kicks in when needed for extra pep. I cant help but think it would do well in a toy but would be a fabrication nightmare prolly.

I have a 1.9 02 Jetta neat little engine plenty of torque but only 90HP I think the best swap would be the 2.5 Euro van diesel with a 5 speed that would have enough displacement for a 6,000lb MH!

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I have a 1.9 02 Jetta neat little engine plenty of torque but only 90HP I think the best swap would be the 2.5 Euro van diesel with a 5 speed that would have enough displacement for a 6,000lb MH!

Whats that motor putting out for HP? Now I am becomming obsessed; My sunrader is at my master mech having axle swapped maybe i should have him drop a diesel in too...lol

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Whats that motor putting out for HP? Now I am becomming obsessed; My sunrader is at my master mech having axle swapped maybe i should have him drop a diesel in too...lol

Cool go for the MB V6 turbo diesel! Some guys have been able to get close to 300HP out of an ALH But when you are talking weight nothing beats displacement I think the 2.5 is about 130 HP.

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Gotta love Toyota engineering priorities. The chart showing HP/Torque output is awesome. Torque is almost pan flat across the power curve... big part of Toyota's success in delivering cheap, economical cars that are (fun-ish) to drive :) .

I just thought I'd add this article about swapping in the 3RZ (2.7 4-cylinder) into early Toyotas. Looks pretty simple (engine mounts and wiring) and 150hp.

http://www.4wheeloff...swap/index.html

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One of the reasons for Toyota Methodology (and success).

I lived in Japan for a few years, their vehicle licensing, taxes, and insurance is based on engine displacement.

The first threshold is at 2000cc, engines greater than 2000cc have up to three times the tax as an engine below 2000cc.

The Japanese know how to squeeze every hp or every mpg out of every cc.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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It's only North America that lives by the 'No substitution for cubic inches' philosophy.

Compare the original Austin/Morris Mini to GM's first effort at front wheel drive, the Olds Toronado! 848cc vs 455ci (7456cc).Or the Eldorado with 500ci. Before going out of production in 2000, the original Mini had grown to a 'huge' 1275cc. And the new (BMW) MINI is only sold with the big engine (1598cc) in North America, but elsewhere there's a (mere)1397cc 74hp & diesel version.

Have we all watched the original 'The Italian Job'? :ThumbUp:

Oh, and since this is supposed to be about Motorhomes:-

http://en.wikipedia..../Mini_Wildgoose

Still 848cc!!

And still 455ci:-

http://www.autoblog.com/2010/08/27/ebay-find-of-the-day-1970-oldsmobile-toronado-gt-surprisingly-a/

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The Bunney's (Andrew) is preping for a 3.4 installation next year, ref posting #9. Is there anyone out there who has previously swapped out the 3.0 and fitted the Toyota 3.4 in their motorhome? I'm particularly interested in what kind of additional performance you obtained. Also how much did you have to pay for the 3.4 engine, what shape was it in, and how many miles were on it before installing it in your Toyota motorhome. What was your final tab, and would you do it again knowing what your final performance and cost was?

Thanks,

YVR

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wonder if you could shoehorn a cummins 4BT in there? It is a heavy lump though and might warrant some suspension/motor mount beefing up. Probably also need to chop a hole in the hood as it's a little tall.

But, who doesn't want a cool looking hood scoop on their toyhouse? I've wanted a hood scooped car since I was 9 years old.

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Greetings - I talked to a company that specializes in rebuilding Toyota engines about performing an engine swap from the 3.0L to the 3.4L. http://www.nwteamyota.com/ They also rebuild the 22R. Here is his reply.

3.0L to 3.4L swap in a 1991 Toyota motorhome

It is half the work/cost if you have a manual transmission. Automatics communicate to much with the computer and engine sensors and you could end up with shift issues. Second the hood clearance is an issue, You would have to cut a spot for the EFI plenum and install a hood scoop. On the trucks and 4runners some people use a body lift but that wont work in your case. The hardest part would be fabricating the exhaust x-over. The motor mounts stay in the same location. The 3.4L is much improved over the 3.0L engine in power and reliability (ie the head gasket issues).

My comment from above is that sounds like you may have to find a donor vehicle with a 3.4L in it to get the ECU (computer) and wiring harness. In my case, I don't have much desire to move to a stick shift in my RV as I need to keep this "wife friendly".

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One swap not being mentioned is a Buick 3.8 V6. The 3800 Series II began in mid '95 and rear wheel drive versions can be found in '95 and newer Camaro and Firebird F-body platform. Stock hp is 195 with 230 ft. #'s of torque - comes with 4L60E automatic trans. Conversion info, bolt-in radiators, motor mounts and other parts through Advanced Automotive, very popular with rock crawler enthusiasts. If and when my 22re dies I will convert to the Buick; I have also extensively looked into the 4.3 Vortec (firewall clearance problems plus 3" lift kit necessary) and the Lexus 4.0 V8 (JDM engines cheap but 300 hp a bit much) but have concluded the Buick fits easily and will give me the torque to pull those hills without holding up traffic.

Seamus McShank

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Automatics communicate to much with the computer and engine sensors and you could end up with shift issues. Second the hood clearance is an issue, You would have to cut a spot for the EFI plenum and install a hood scoop. On the trucks and 4runners some people use a body lift but that wont work in your case. The hardest part would be fabricating the exhaust x-over.

Some good points. You can get around the shift issues if you use a computer from a T100 auto. Same Trans electronics as ours.

I've heard that some swaps can get away without the hood scoop by cutting the cross-bar under the hood, but this varies from truck to truck so I'm guessing the engine mounts may vary in height a wee bit... I don't think you would need a custom x-over for the exhaust, the only reason the 4x4's use them is the transfer case drop is there and so is the clutch slave cylinder. We don't have those so we can safely route the exhaust down the passenger-side at first and move it back over to the driver-side before the gas-tank.

This is my plan anyway. :)

Andrew.

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Should be interesting how this plays out for folks. I'd prefer to stay 'all Toyota' partly because of emissions testing in our area and avoiding the hassle with the state. I sure have to think that the added horsepower and reliability of the 3.4 is a compelling option.

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Hi guys

I have just completed a 3.0 to 3.4 swap on my 1990 (chassis) winnebego itasca 22 ft. I put nearly 1000 miles on it this past weekend. I bought a 1995 T-100 and used everything from it, that is engine, ecu and transmission. Changed

the tail shaft housings from trans to trans as speedometer cable went out opposite sides but I believe you could use present trans as as you say they use the same speed sensor type. You would have to cut off the connectors to

trans and hard wire as they are different. Had to heat and bend crossover pipe to clear frame on pass side, it comes right on top of torsion bar but enough room to clear. Had to modify lower alt bracket to tuck alt closer to

engine as it would hit P/S box. I had read the swaps done on 4 by 4 web sites but there are some differences I found on 2wd as mentioned already. I just cut 2 pieces of bracing out of hood and it closes ok, did not need a hole in it.

Am very pleased with it, it drives much easier, not feeling like it is struggling all the time, makes it hard to keep speed down so mileage will not drop. Seemed on this trip mileage was about the same, maybe a touch better.

Out bound trip had about a 30mph tail wind and it was getting approx 23 to 24 mpg (imperial gallon, I am Canadian), coming back mostly no or light wind and it was around the 20 mpg driving mostly at 55mph. The 3.0 gave me

average for whole trip from Alberta to Nova Scotia and back 2 years ago 19.5 mpg (remember imperial gallon) Hope this helps some of you who are looking for more power. The 3.4 is one of the best engines ever, they last forever

it seems, have seen many with 3 to 4 hundred thousand miles as I am a Toyota tech.

Jim

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Hey Jim !

How big is your garage? YVR and I are heading over :ThumbUp: (we will bring the beer too)

Any chance you can take some pictures of the lower alt bracket and the custom bent crossover pipe? I'd have to pre-bend mine...

Great Job! :first:

Andrew.

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