doghouse Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 Has this been decided yet? I have a 1990 Odyssey V6 auto. Do I need to find a T100 90 -95 auto V6 that will allow me to do a direct swap? Do I have to live with the mileage of a used one or can I change that as well? Mine has 51 k on it. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 If you want to have your transmission range indicator you will need cluster from a T-100, if you can get by without that then the cluster from a 4 runner or truck of same years will work. There was a change to electronic speedometer about 92 or 93 so stay with the 89-91 cluster if using from a truck or 4 runner. Instrument cluster from T-100 and truck and 4 runner all will be plug in for you, however some trucks with no tach do not have the tach wire in cluster harness, mine did not, had to run a wire from igniter to back of cluster, I first used a 4 runner one so was not having trans range, so I cut off and moved the pin from one of the prndl21 wires. Now I have the cluster from a T-100 as I bought a T-100 to do my 3.4 swap. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 As to your question about changing the odometer, I started to take mine apart and then decided against it. Some of these are pretty tamper proof, not like the older ones. You can see by the way its put together it is not meant to come apart. Even so I think swap is worth it, you not only get tach, but guages and trip odometer. I just put origninal mileage on vehicle, starting mileage on new odometer and date installed on piece of paper and taped inside glove compartment. This is what we do at dealership if we install new speedo assy in a vehicle. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dayoff53 Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Has this been decided yet? I have a 1990 Odyssey V6 auto. Do I need to find a T100 90 -95 auto V6 that will allow me to do a direct swap? Do I have to live with the mileage of a used one or can I change that as well? Mine has 51 k on it. With the help of my brother, I just finished an instrument cluster swap on my 1992 Winnebago Warrior. For the sake of others who do this and start at the same level of ignorance as I, here's what I found out. This may get a little bit long and tedious... First, from my brother's previous swap on his 1991 Sea Breeze, we found we really needed the T100 instrument cluster rather than the 4Runner so that we would have the gear indicator lights (he did the 4Runner conversion first and neither of us were happy with it). We found a 1995 donor T100 at the junk yard and it had a mechanical speedo cable - don't know why, as we looked at earlier models that had electronic ones - so that was okay. Later, we came back and took the oil pressure sender from the same donor vehicle. I won't go through all the false starts and do-overs we went through, but will try to tell you just what we did that worked. You MUST swap the oil pressure sender on the block - the original sender is just an on/off switch and will not work with the new gauge. I have read, in fact, that it will burn it up. There was no problem swapping the oil pressure senders except that the electrical pig tail didn't fit the new sender, so we cut the boot off of it and remodeled the connector a little so it would stay on, then we used some butyl sealant to replace the function on the boot. We DID reset the odometer to the correct mileage. This was a lot of work and required a great deal of care. It was painful, too, as I had to add about 10,000 miles to the donor odo to get to the 32k on my Toy. To do this, we used a punch to carefully open up the crimped "horns" that held the odo axle and we were able to remove the unit from speedo assembly. With some playing around, I was able to figure out how to adjust the wheels, which I did one at a a time starting with the left most wheel. I won't try to explain how it is done in detail, because you really just need to play with it. Basically, though, you need to hold the little tabs in a straight line while you turn the wheel to the right of the one you are trying to adjust. Turn that wheel back and forth through it's entire travel and it will advance the one to the left one digit for each cycle. When you get to the 1 mile digit, you adjust it using the far right wheel, which has no numbers on it but would be the 1/10th mile wheel if it showed tenths. Since it does not show tenths, I set the odo to the next whole mile above the mileage on my original odometer. Then, you have to put the whole thing back together, praying you don't break off those "horns" as you again crimp them around the axle. With the odometer put back together (and, BTW, mine reads PERFECTLY correct - in 31 miles, the 1/10 mile digit was not perceptibly off AT ALL), it was then just a matter of installing the instrument cluster in the dash... or so you would think. Turns out the tach was erratic as all get out and registered way high once we got it all put back together. If others have similar problems, here's what I found out: When we used a diagnostic tach (plugged in to the spade connector designed for that purpose right next to the fuse box under the hood), the tach in the instrument cluster worked fine. Using the screw on the potentiometer(accesible through the face of the tachometer - you may have to bend it up a tad to get a little screwdriver on it), we could get it adjusted correctly. Then, we would put the dash back together... and the tach would be way off and jumping around all over the place. We tried removing the small add-on printed circuit board (rectangular with 3 leads coming from it and attached to the main circuit board for the instrument cluster - not all instrument clusters with tachs will have this), but the results were the same. Finally, we realized that unplugging the diagnostic tach is what caused it to go haywire, so we scratched our heads and tried to figure out why. Finally, we checked what the diagnostic tach was doing electrically and found that there was about 1434 ohms of resistance between the pulse lead and the negative terminal of the battery. We then checked the add-on pc board and found the same 1434 ohms or resistance between the black wire and the light colored wire. Sooo.... we put that little pc board back on the instrument cluster but connected only those 2 wires, attaching the black wire to its original terminal, but attaching the light colored wire to the "P" (for pulse) terminal. Ta Da! It worked like a charm! The tach is now very steady and reads correctly at all RPMs. There is no indicator light for the "Power" setting of the ECT. Here is a work-around I haven't actually tried: The "new" instrument cluster has a "4WD" light that is not being used. I should be able to figure out what lead was designed for the "Power" indicator and pull it from the connecter it is in and replace the "4WD" lead with that one. Then, when I put the ECT in Power mode, the "4WD" light should come on. I probably won't take it apart again to do this, but if anybody does and it works, let me know! As to the speedometer - we had to pull the needle off to set the odometer and we had to experiment to get it set correctly. Every time we would put it where we wanted it, when we pushed it on to the shaft, it ended up too low. BE CAREFUL removing the needle, BTW - pry carefully with two small flat blade screw drivers so as not to bend or break the shaft. With the needle set just below the "0" mark, my speedo registers within 1 mph at speeds from 20 to 50 - close enough for me! Finally, the temperature gauge works differently from my original. The original generally set at about 1/3 or the range of the gauge and would crawl up to the middle or just a hair above on the longest, hardest uphill pulls. The "new" one sit just about dead center when the engine is warmed up and doesn't move more than about a hair's breadth on the nastiest long climbs. I am convinced that it is working, but it sure isn't giving much information. I only hope that it will climb up if there is ever any serious overheating. That's it! My "new" instrument cluster looks and functions beautifully. Good luck with yours! 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jim Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Hi, Your write up of conversion very good. In my reply above yours I had forgotten about the tach difference. The problem is that the 95 T-100 used the 3.4 engine with coil on spark plug ignition and so the tach signal is different. If you go on the 4by4 web sites about the swapping of 3.0 to 3.4 they show that you need to solder in a resistor to make tach work with 3.0. Maybe you overcame that another way sounds like. I forgot that because I swaped the 3.4 in to my motorhome as well as the cluster. Sorry for the confusion my post may have caused. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nam Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 (edited) Just got a 1994 T100 cluster gauge. What do I need to know for the swap? Should I order oil pressure sensor for 1994 T100 or 1990 pickup? The connector is different? The 1990 pickup one is cheaper in Rockauto. Since 1994 T100 has the same 3VZE 3.0 engine, do I need to modify the resistor for tachometer? Edited July 1, 2017 by Nam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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